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Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)
The output wave form in secondary will not be stair stepped like the primaries will be. use what you have, test it and you will see and be pleasantly surprised.
don't jump to conclusions like the people on the other thread do before testing. adjustments will always take place. besides your wire and core exposure is way way less than mine so more windings will be needed.
some people on this forum would rather run there mouth then knowing why wide wire was used on this device. apparently a higher degree of core induction/interaction is beyond their intellectual understanding. but of course it is easier to rant and rave instead of doing the actual research.
test then adjust my friend.
MM
Ok, thanks Mm, i am excited, and looking forward to the secondary action.
My main interest in this, as it develops, is in vehicle propulsion, either as a DC power source to use with existing near short circuit Traction motors, or the secondaries on a rotor already excited.
Maybe even a current control of existing traction motors, the application seems endless.
Yes, the possibilities of this device are endless. once this device is operational the Tesla battery pack becomes obsolete immediately as driving across your country non stop becomes a reality. even plugging your car up to your vacation property to power it becomes viable. you name it, it becomes possible. can you immagine an all electric Tractor harvesting your crops, never to buy fuel again. then plugging your tractor to your barn to power it when not in use.
winding primaries today and pics will follow. monday or tuesday i will start on electronics then be testing by next weekend. once the testing is complete and board passes i will make it available to everyone that is pursuing electronic switching. i still need to send in the PNP Mosfet and Thermal control board but the money is tight and i can only do so much with what i have.
i might be traveling to San Antonio to work next week. i am praying every day as i really need the money for this device and living expenses. this device almost comes first out of all my priorities. i would become homeless if i new i could finish this device. it sounds kinda screwed up but that is where my heart lies.
Words can not describe the joy in my heart as i feel right now. a major contribution has come my way and it is so large my words are unable to leave my mouth. i was instructed to keep it confidential but i will not hide the joy. thank you from the bottom of my heart in the advancement of this device. my whole dream in the scheme of things was to give the world free energy.
thank you from myself and every single person involved in this project that we are forever in your debt.
I will strive to the highest level to finish this device and prove to the world and ney sayers this device works and works well.
Well, it took a few days to get the bench cleared and the place cleaned up enough to find out what there is to work with.
I found four toroidal transformers from ups boxes which should do the trick. (If one doesn't do enough, I'll stack the things.)
The thing weighs a bit over 16 pounds, is 7 inches across, with a 3 inch diameter core. To protect the plastic wrapping, I'll wrap it with glass tape.
The copper was an inductor that wandered in from somewhere. It is a bit over 3 inches wide and can be cut into strips, folded over, and formed to the toroid like MM did his wide magnet wire.
There was a good bit of #14 gauge wire on the transformer that may prove useful later.
Mr. UFOPolitics mentioned a 30 degree angle of separation in his video. A free degree wheel can be downloaded and used to mark the core. http://www.laverdafinland.org/cape/kuvat/
I was wondering what happen to you since the last time we spoke.
Welcome Glen to the Forum. i am glad you are participating in a world changing event.
good parts find and good price on those mosfets, i will have to check into that as they are 4 dollars cheaper.
that 14 awg will be great for your primaries definately save it.
again welcome Glen to the best thread on this forum. we will make history.
EDIT;
Glen, i hope those are not knock off's. they seam awfully cheap. if they are the real thing i will get them
thank you for your find.
EDIT; i checked Mouser, DigiKey and IXTX and the housing of the To-247 is completely different from that web site.
Now the people of this thread, followers and readers can see why i started this thread. the other Figuera threads are completely lost with no research between them adding all up to a thimble full. all they concentrate on is attacking me all while having no research to back up their foul claims and post nothing but gibberish. they have absolutely no direction what so ever, each one going separate ways to no where. the funny thing is everyone of them has been to my profile page and probably downloaded my research and at the very least studied it.
it seams the four D's are in use from these people, The four D’s are Deny Degrade Disrupt and Deceive.
imagine that.
now this thread is 180 degrees opposite. we all are working together in one single direction. there is no distracting arguing from fellow thread members, no screaming, yelling and distracting mouth running liars that distort the truth to retrieve their lost 15 minutes of fame.
we are united in one simple cause that took no brainwashing just simple reasoning and deductions for us to unite towards this cause.
if a mistake is made we will adjust, if a problem arises we solve it, that is what teamwork is all about.
we the team of the continuum will build this device and freely give it to the world, no more, no less. we will achieve this by acting like researchers do, with respect, Perseverance and collaboration.
i for one am glad to be here on a calm, quiet thread.
Mr. UFOPolitics mentioned a 30 degree angle of separation in his video. A free degree wheel can be downloaded and used to mark the core. http://www.laverdafinland.org/cape/kuvat/
Hello Glen, welcome here,
About that 30º angle is what it is recommended by Inductor's guidelines...nothing more...and it is not "mandatory" here...and like I wrote before...make your toroid winds kind of loose to be able to move them while scoping signal.
Mr. UFOPolitics: Where did you come up with that slip ring/commutator assembly? That looks like something that would come in handy.
Am anxious to get going.....
glenWV
Oh, the power rotary switch?...easy, just walk into Walmart...go to "Inventor's Section" and find it right there...around $15,99 (American Special price)...
Friend, that has been built by me from scratch...using an old Car Alternator slip ring...plus brush assy and modifying its spline fitting shaft on my Lathe...boring a housing for bearings, static shaft built also at lathe for commutator mounting, bending aluminum to make motor brackets, drilling...tap and die...nuts, bolts, etc,etc...
Commutators I have them in stock of many different sizes and number of elements from my Asymmetric machines...
About Your Toroids... they all will work just fine. Just do just one to start winding it...
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Quote;
"Oh, the power rotary switch?...easy, just walk into Walmart...go to "Inventor's Section" and find it right there...around $15,99 (American Special price)..."
OMG ! THAT WAS HILARIOUS.
sorry Glen.
EDIT;
Shadow;
the pure iron bar was from Ed Fagan and is rediculasly expensive. i would extremely suggest using transformer laminations. any transformer would do but the best in my book would be a three phase then disassemble, cut to needed length/width then reassemble. the only reason i am using it is i have it and can not afford anything else right now. when i bought it i was making 800 a week.
i found a company in Arizona that cuts shunt laminations to order but i have not recieved a reply.
Unifying and Strengthening Magnetic Fields Structure
Hello to All, and I hope that all your builds are coming out excellently well...
Now, after carefully analyzing the set up of our Primaries-Secondaries Cores, I have come up with the following structural arrangement, which I consider is the best and more compact set up...:
[IMG][/IMG]
I know that in the Figuera Patent He displays all primaries and secondaries in a straight row...and I will assume that he also did it -as he exampled current fluctuations by using resistors- for easier understanding of the Main Idea. However, Magnetic Fields work better when they are compacted in their original and natural Spheroidal Geometrical Shape.
Now, depending on the number of [Primary-Secondary-Primary] Modules we are planing to connect in our system...we could align them as IMG above...I only added Six Modules for easier understanding as not to populate image that much... but we could also add a Center Module as well.
But the Main issue I want to share with all of you here...is about adding a Backing Steel Plate at each ends of the two sets of Primaries, serving not only as the Main Structural Frame which will hold together all iron cores...BUT, MAINLY, because by doing this end plates we will be Super Enhancing the Magnetic Fields Strength by UNIFYING ALL the rear polarizations into just One Single Field.
This Iron Plates will generate a Common Spatial Magnetic Shielding in both ends, which, even being of the same polarities (say all South at both ends, since we are using N-N at Secondaries Intersections) these Spatial Shields will "embrace" all the Center Fluctuating North Polarizations...and by doing so...All our Independent Norths will be Highly Strengthening as Compacting their Repulsion Magnetic Fields Forces into One Huge Field...doing exactly the same Unison fluctuations but as just one displacement.
Normally, We are used to form "Magnetic Chains" between N-S as symbols of attraction...However, the reason I know this, without going in a broad magnetism spatial interactions explanation here...is because on my N-N Generator...which originally I used Aluminum holding structures...and it worked out fine...however, when I did the holding structures with steel...the results (Electrical Output) increased beyond normal spec's.
Now, the proper and simpler mechanical way to do this...is by drilling a not too deep hole on each end cylindrical cores center (ALL) and then Tap a thread to use a pretty strong and of the suitable thread size steel bolt, for easier dismantling and assembly.
Now, for the bolts in-between Primary-Secondary-Primary I recommend not to use steel bolts...but Brass, Bronze, Aluminum or any other non ferromagnetic material.
Spools containing all your coils could slide in-out as they would be also bolted together once all are assembled.
This way we will have a very strongly attached as compacted structure which will hold and absorb all the huge vibrations when unit is operating.
As a final "wrap" I also recommend to add long and strong steel bolts from Plate to Plate, which would also add more compactness to our builds...as would add even more magnetic strength to our Spatial Magnetic Shield as well.
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
i came up with this design earlier this year in my research of the interacting fields and their relationship with each other. all i can say is like minds think a like.
the fields from the cores interact with each other enhancing induction thus enhancing output.
of course this design is for round cores.
any metal running perpendicular to the fields (length wise) will magneticaly ground out the fields and should be NON magnetic. it will always take the shortest route if it can.
To UFO
Sounds like Hoover Dam will be running in the back yard!
Fantastic!
Thanks MM for the heads up on metal I ordered some from another place today.
A lot cheaper but not ultra pure.
I am thinking that in 1800's maybe Iron wasn't that pure either?
I don't know. Ill see when I get them. they are 2" dia.
The first pic is my so called water pipe the disgusting person on the other thread made a rude comment on. actually it works great for a winding tree keeping tension on the spool as to not despool. it is spring loaded so tension is adjustable. all bought from Lowe's or Home Depot. had to run to get new pully as the one installed fell apart.
second pic is winder and bobbin. i haven't finished winding the 14 awg yet. 3 layers in parallel for very low ohms. inter connects to part G are 10 awg.
third pic is shot of taps from part G to PNP Mosfet board. awesome connectors for the 10 awg interconnect wire.
You might want to take a look at my profile pics. i have bobbins construction pics there. i just picked up some more recycled cloth made from plastic bottles at Wall Mart. at 23 cents per sheet and hit with resin, it is so strong you can't crush it with your hands or head and it makes wonderful bobbins. resin kit from Lowes.
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