Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

[Shadow119g]

looks great!

I finally got a picture ready for sending...trouble with my phone connection. As you can see these are my cores. I thought it would be easier to use clear 2" tape covering the core then wind the wire on the core. Well, it takes longer and will not work on my winding device.
Oh well, I will probably continue...just takes longer!

http://www.energeticforum.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

[marathonman]

Ends

Is that plastic rings on end of core or layers of tape???

EDIT; SHADOW; When you assemble your cores and have them butted next to each other the combined gap might be on the large side. maybe some thin rings lathed from plastic would fit the bill. just something to consider in your building process as it would not be advisable to have large gaps between your primary and secondary coils.

i wound a primary bobbin in 15 min earlier, three layer to. all i have to do is seal/secure with resin. bobbins sure make it a snap. the good thing is the bobbins can be made square also when i build 3 x 3 x 6 primaries and 3 x 3 x 4 or 5 secondaries when i get transformer material.

MM

[Cornboy 555]

Hi Mm, and all, made my rotary brush switching, but not happy with the quality or robustness of it, so take two, is under way.

Will be cutting up my transformers shortly for primary cores, so have a question, Mm you said early on, to have headroom in part G does this refer to the volume of the G core, in relation to the volume of the primary cores?.

Happy Christmas and Building everyone,

Regards Cornboy.

[marathonman]

Headroom

I was looking at the 16 section vertical com yesterday and noticed it was rather small. i was thinking of getting one to build just to test my part G until i have everything for my electronic brush rotation. is it flimsy or is it ok to use???

QUOTE;
"to have headroom in part G does this refer to the volume of the G core, in relation to the volume of the primary cores?."

To some extent yes.

When i was referring to head room, all power supplies must have headroom ie. the sum of all lower branches plus room to operate at an efficient level.
part G is no exception to this rule so all lower branches in your case will be the primaries at high, the primaries at low, your motor driven commutator and some slight losses all added together plus around 500 va for headroom to be efficient in it's operation.

i do not know what your final driving voltage and currant is but as long as the total wattage does not exceed your va rating of your toroid minus 500 va.

example; suppose you were using 5 amp peak for your primaries and 2.5 for your low at 100 volts plus a 2 amp 24 volt motor to drive your commutator. well the primaries are 7.5 amp x 100 volts is 750 watts plus 48 watts for your motor. the total is 798 watts plus lets say 100 watts for losses. losses will not be that high but it is just example.

so we have 898 watts total plus 500 va for headroom so your total will be right at 1400 va total for your part G core. having a little more will not effect operation of the device. also remember all power for electronic must be factored in if using electronic timing.

i hope this clarifies things a little.

And yes, HAVE A VERY MERRY FIGUERA CHRISTMAS.

MM

[Shadow119g]

Plastic?

The rings are Acrylic 025" they are a tight press fit on the 2" iron round bar.
The iron bar sticks out on each end a very little 0.013" so that they will meat
each other. The winding's are 3.214" wide.
The middle core has two #10 by 32 brass screws, heads cut off for joining the three cores to each other. I never thought of gluing the ends together...brilliant idea I think I can still do this...will make a mess, but as I'm a mess...who gives a crap!
Thanks for all the support!
Shadow

[Ufopolitics]

About my Rotary Switch...

Hello to All,

This post is basically dedicated to those who are going to be building a mechanical switch on their Figuera Generator...

So, this is the way I built my Rotary Switch...and below is a simple sketch showing the main and basic structure:

[IMG][/IMG]

First I would say to scrap around for an Automotive Alternator...preferably a German one, mine is from a VW ...cause it is better built, plus the Slip Ring and Splined shaft will come out easier without cracking slip ring mica..Now, this splined shaft will become my rotary shaft, which hooks to motor on one end...and to bearing which mounts on the Fixed commutator shaft.

So, I highly recommend to start from here...bore the Rotary shaft in order to fit a bearing within...which Inner Diameter will fit into the commutator fixed shaft, reduced end.

Commutator Fixed Shaft was built from a regular 1/2 inch iron rod, then lathed and reduced. (I actually had to build two of these fixed shafts, since my previous commutator was too small.)

These Two Shafts MUST BE Perfectly center aligned (can NOT Wobble not even a bit!!...or mechanical drag will kill you!!!)...and just with the "floating" bearing between both shafts, the assembly should freely spin while holding any one of the two shafts.

This is your Rotary Switch Main Structure...the center where every thing else will be built around...and so, it MUST BE perfect!!

Unfortunately all this work must be done in a Lathe, plus you should have the proper tooling to drill or bore perfectly centered holes in rods, ...no hand drilling will work here guys, do not waste your time and money...if you do not have a Lathe...then have a Good, meaning, accurate with small projects...machine shop build this simple two shaft assembly for you.

The DC Motor I got it from one of those Battery Operated small Fans...Mine is a 12V from 8 C Type Batteries 1.5V ea which seat on Fan base...this motors use only milliamps and have a lot of torque....they should also come with an AC Power Supply.

RC Brushed Motors will not do this job as they are wound with thick wire and few turns, designed for speed and no torque...they will drain high amps when under mechanical load and so get very hot!!.

I honestly do not know if the 3 Phase RC Brushless DC Motors would be efficient and do the job...since they require a special ESC (Controller) and it will become an expensive deal.

As I do know the 2 phase Brushless (from PC small fan types) will definitively NOT work!!...as they lack the required torque.

At the end of Commutator fixed shaft I installed a Bushing welded to a Washer (in blue, the "Lock Bushing")...which serves as a mechanical lock to fixed shaft and commutator...plus to align whole set.

Resuming here...the "heart" of this whole device bolts down to the Splined Alternator Shaft plus work done to it...It will need must of the Lathe work...as the Motor end also needs to be bored to fit your Motor Shaft...easier you could just add a threaded bolt to lock shaft in place...I went more fancy on this end, as I wanted to test different size motors...so I built an adjustable Dremel Chuck Assembly on this end.

Check for both shaft "play" between them, once assembled, and make sure rotary one would not rub with any fixed component causing any drag...I had to add like two "E" Clips and washers to prevent this from taking place. Realize that must Motors must operate within a small shaft play range...and must NOT be forced to just one static position of its shaft or else will consume more power.

No brushes are shown here for easier understanding of basic structure...and the space between rotary shaft (where slip ring ends) and fixed shaft bigger diameter start... is where I mounted the rotating Brush Assembly plus Counterbalances.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Good

Shadow;
actually sound fairly good as viewing the pics it looked like a half inch wide. connections will be fine as long as the brass has no ferrous material in it but resin is good to. if a magnet is attracted to the brass screws it is not good and will heat up from the secondary AC action . maybe even adding resin along with the brass bolt then buff out.

i resined them together then semi buffed/cleaned them up below. when i install on mount i will secure then ends as to not move at all. the resin is holding fairly good as i cleaned the connected parts with Acetone before resin process. the end of the core is recessed in slightly from the bobbin so i can mount and align ends to a protruding round mount. just enough to hold it in position fitting nicely into the bobbin at around 1/16 of an inch depth.



UFOP;

Looks great, not something your average person can build but great none the less, can wait to see it in action as i know you are very excited to see it rotating pounding out some va.

i am looking for a small motor as we speak so i can finish my testing and tweeking before my electronics are done so all i have to do is connect the electronics and fire it up.

All;
just reminding everyone, my electronics is to mimic brush rotation ONLY and has NO other function. this allows part G to do all it's functions it so wonderfully does.

MM

[Shadow119g]

Change with pictures

Plastic?
The rings are Acrylic 025" they are a tight press fit on the 2" iron round bar.
The iron bar sticks out on each end a very little 0.013" so that they will meat
each other. The winding's are 3.214" wide.
The middle core has two #10 by 32 brass screws, heads cut off for joining the three cores to each other. I never thought of gluing the ends together...brilliant idea I think I can still do this...will make a mess, but as I'm a mess...who gives a crap!
Thanks for all the support!
Shadow

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1481913725

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1481913777

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1481913755

[Shadow119g]

Dental work!

Well, I had to do a little dental work on my design?
I got lucky, I didn't even touch the coating on the
wires. If you consider this bragging then you would
be correct.
Shadow

Click on picture to view bigger one!

Famous saying from a famous test pilot = Tony LeVier

"I WOULD RATHER BE LUCKY THAN GOOD!"
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...15_resized-jpg

[Cornboy 555]

@ Mm, the 16 bar commutator is quite small in comparison to 1500va toroid, only time will tell if it can handle the currents involved here.

If we were switching a motor with reversing currents of the VA we are using with CF device, i imagine it would fry in a very short time, it is from a small electric motor.

However once the device is started, i am hoping for the recycling of currents, from the primaries, to G, will draw very little amps, and the comm will be fine. .

This comm is very affordable,and great for a starting point.

Regards Cornboy.

[marathonman]

Commutator

Shadow;
I see your dental work and why you did it. worked out well as an after thought.

Cornboy;
I am not worried about size, it's the thickness that is most important. I am sure it will be ok, looks thick enough to handle some amps. and some people were wondering why i chose such stout Mosfets......em now you know why as there was a method to the madness. but remember the peak currant is only for a short time constantly rising and falling.
also why my Mosfet board is 2 oz copper.

you must realize the winding of part G is important as it dictates all currant flowing through it. you can wind it to give you 2 amp peak or 10 amp peak, it is entirely up to the builder and how may winds are on the toroid when brush is at peak.

there was a conversation on the other thread as to which was more important, currant or voltage aka emf.


it's a round about viewpoint but you get my drift, cause and effect.

MM

[Shadow119g]

One unit

Below is one unit brass screwed together. Total weight
is 14.5 lbs.
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1482005291

[marathonman]

Cores

Turned out really good shadow. using two sets to tune would be good idea to work out any bugs or anomalies then add the rest.

UFOP is right we are all slowed down during the holidays due to family obligations.

yesterday i helped my black mechanic friend tear a car rear end and tank a part. the tank is set in a cage like frame that has the rear wheels and suspension built in. well, the info he had said it would take 4 hours but we nailed it in under 3. we laughed, joked and had the best of time and not once worried we were doing the wrong thing. it reminded me of the Figuera device as most people are afraid to let go of their outdated ways, thinking and just do it. jump in with both feet and an open mind thus you will be surprised at what you can learn and accomplish if you set your mind to it.


Merry Christmas to all the wonderful followers, readers and especially to my fellow builders who are helping me spread this wonderful device around the world. thank you all and God bless you and your families.
and especially to the people that have donated to the Figuers cause and helped me get to the point i am presently at. we still have a ways to go so please feel free to contribute to this wonderful cause.

Have a Very Merry Christmas and i hope your new year is blessed with Figuera.

MM

[Shadow119g]

Thanks!

Thank you for the advice!
I'm on it.
Shadow

[marathonman]

Two sets

I have two complete sets done so i will begin inter connections. i have 10 awg red wire used for part G taps left over so i will use that for all inter connections.
i will post pic of semi finished sets before i attach 10 awg and outer tape wrap plus working on mounting base.


MM