Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

[Cornboy 555]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A73CKnzK9Eg[/VIDEO]

[marathonman]

Nice

Man, that was almost better than a porno flick.
very, very nice Cornboy. at 3000 rpm and dead smooth, i think you are good to go.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

Awesome!!

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A73CKnzK9Eg[/VIDEO]

Hello Cornboy!!


That looks really awesome friend!!!

Very smooth and neat!!

What I recommend is to add some power to circuit (like 12V) with just a couple of automotive incandescent bulbs instead of primaries to then scope signal from both bulbs positives and common negative ground to source and probes.

This way you would be able to check your Part G wave amplitude and depth, plus check if brush still holds good contact at higher speeds...if it don't it will go flat line.

But I believe because of brush positioning being vertical it will not be affected by centrifugal forces...

That Motor is a killer monster!!!...You wanted to make sure there will never be Power Outages by "small" motor failures Uh?...

Great job...now you are ready for the electromagnets!!


Regards and All the best!!


Ufopolitics

[Shadow119g]

Switching

Nice job on your coils Mm and Shadow, and your switching UFO.
@ Shadow, what kind of switching are you going to use?
from: CORNBOY 555

I plan to use MM's electronic device.

I have some time so I am going to attempt to
build a rotary device like yours, UFO's or Doug1's.
Working on it now.
Shadow

[GlenWV]

Update

Greetings all;

@UFOP - I will build both mechanical and solid state switching. (I know, but I just can't help it.) Thank you for posting those pics, they will help greatly when building mine.

@Cornboy - Looks great. Man after my own heart - uses wood!!

@Shadow - I'm envious.... keep going man.

@MM - I love those coils and bobbins.

Take a look at the Razor motor: New Razor MX350 V9+ DIRT ROCKET BIKE SCOOTER Electric Motor | eBay

These can be found at wheel chair repair shops, too. Electric scooters, and so forth. The motors can be rewound and made pretty efficient.

My machinist is picking up the 3" diameter core material today while he's in Kentucky. Got enough to do 7 sets. He will 3D print bobbins for me. (That is just so neat, and I really appreciate it!!)

Metals Depot had pretty good pricing. Metals Depot® - Buy Metal Online! Steel, Aluminum, Stainless, Brass

The commutator sales lady emailed back, so I'll look through their listings and get the most robust available, along with brushes.

My FETs have yet to arrive. Must be on the slow boat from China. (Oh, well.)

Keep trucking guys. You are all doing great work here!!

glenWV

[marathonman]

Good to Go

Thank you Glen, i like that the bobbins are very easy and cheap to make. the cloth i use is recycled plastic bottles. COOL !

I think i will stick with the motor i have found and posted earlier. at a light to light medium load i figure it will pull a 1 amp load and that is good enough for me especially at 16 bucks.
would like to know more about your 3 inch cores as i think that is a sweet spot for core size.
and i to have a heavy duty commutator coming and as i have stated before i will do both but will end up with electronic brush simulation in the end just so people have a choice.

we are advancing very well and will all be testing shortly.
sort of like a pie in your face kind of thing to the other thread.
oh, i'm sorry, did i say that...... OPS !


i forgot, we are on the same side, em, i think.

Below is drawing of commutator set up i envisioned.



MM

[Cornboy 555]

Thanks All, for your kind words.

@UFO, I will do as you suggest with the bulbs and scope might take a while, Christmas stuff. The motor is total overkill, funds are tight these days and it was on hand, just as the brush,s and holders from some cheap vacuum cleaner motors i had.

@ Mm, If you can mill a slot in brush carrier like i did you should have little trouble balancing it, having it on the outside will drive you nuts trying to get it to run smooth, that's why my switch was Take 2.

Best Regards and wishes to you all, Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

Almost ready to "Rock and Roll"...Baby!!

Hello to All,


I just finished the Secondary...prior, I did two Primaries.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Primaries are wound with 16 awg, around 65 T per layer totaling Four(4) layers...Total Resistance 0.5 Ohms.

Secondaries are wound with 14 awg, around 55 T per layer at a Total of Eleven Layers (11)...Yeap...lot more than Primaries...did not have more room otherwise I would have kept going...

I used a special tape that cost me a lot of work to finally locate and order...:

POLYESTER 2MIL 425º F TAPE

These people are awesome, lot of goodies and good prices as different sizes and colors...

I used first a layer of Fiberglass Mylar Fiber Sheet used for High Temp Electrical App (I use it for Motor and Generators Hedges)...secure it with tape and start winding...this way I can slide off whole coil out for testing...plus by using tape at every layer, have no chance to mess up layers by forcing one wire from another one etc,etc...plus gives a fully strong coil after is finished, even out of core.

Now, while I was winding Secondary...and after exchanging some mails with MM...about secondaries Output...

And I came up with this idea, which I did not applied on the secondary winding shown on picture above...but I definitively will in the next!!

If we wind Secondary, and every layer we extend wires out, just in a loop...then later we cut it and mark it (Layer 1) and so on...then we could read our output per layer in order to be able to calculate later how many layers we need for System Supply...

Also, and very seriously...that way we do not go overboard...You know what I mean right?...Yeah, I meant going too far in Kilowatts at output which could be really dangerous by being close to Megawatts...


Tomorrow Land...I will be running some tests...Oh!, and forgot...My weak PSU will feed each Primary at 6V and 10 Amps...and so far magnetic field looks good...have to test with this Secondary what is the Output.

I believe the right Input (whenever I get the ordered 900 W Linear PSU)...should be in the range of 40V and like 5 Amps...I don't think it would need but maybe -/+ 10V and -/+ 1 Amp more.

See you all tomorrow...and maybe we will have some nice Christmas Presents then...


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Protection

For the people using this style of core attaching with a brass bolt please be sure to have some type of very thin insulation between core (micro barrier) or else Hysteresis and eddies will cause primaries efficiency to drop and heat up and this we don't want.

UFOP a small bit of glue or resin will keep the ends from despooling like i see in your primary either when winding or after.

another trick is acetone and either packing peanuts or ping pong balls. stir together it will melt very nice then dip the coil or spread with brush. dries clear and hard like armor.
use on finished coils and it will look like the pro's.

a word to all, if using transformer laminations you should be able calculate the output from the secondary with the material spec sheet if you have one or even something similar to it. ie watts per lb or watts per inch. that is why you should start with the secondary output you need then match your primaries accordingly.

the reason i can not calculate this is solid pure iron does not come with spec's like laminated silicon iron does that is why i had suggested it.
but from some of the suggestions from UFOP or myself, we will get there. even soldering a test wire at the end of the first layer coil will help determine volts per turn thus not having to cut your coil.
this is the very reason i have not wound the second secondary yet as i need to gauge the output first.

NICE CORES UFOP. and i like your rusty red.
once my coils are good to go all inter connect will be 10 awg, shrink tubing, then taped.

Cornboy; i see your counter balance above the brush holder but not the slot. guess it is covered from the brush plate. balance is definitely the key.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks MM,

I have High Temp Clear and Orange Epoxy for those purposes...but I don't wanna do that as of now. Since the bolts and fiberglass plates press against core and wires...so I am just fine for testing purposes.

On Acetone have to be careful and make first some test to your wires enamel...then see if it removes it...if it does no good to do it.

Some enamels do come off...some don't...I recommend to check first.

PSU don't feed primaries right...6V 10A is not enough to build required field....so I will test with some batteries I have charged ...let's see.


Good nite all.


Ufopolitics

[marathonman]

Wire

QUOTE;

"On Acetone have to be careful and make first some test to your wires enamel...then see if it removes it...if it does no good to do it.'

yes, good point to bring up as all wire is not equal.

Shadow;
QUOTE; "build a rotary device like yours, UFO's or Doug1's."

No one on this forum is building like Doug as he used an alternator and tarzan fan assembly to house the brush that makes direct contact with the thick wire wrapped around the core. he used a precision grinder to grind the wire at operating speeds from the top to achieve extreme rotating tolerances. we are using the very same concepts and functions though, thus we will achieve the same results. i don't have a precision grinder so alternative methods needed to be devised.


MM

[Netica]

Merry Christmas everyone...

[marathonman]

Yes, Merry Christmas Everyone.

MM

[Shadow119g]

I agree!

I don't care who you are!

Have a merry Christmas!

Thank you all.

Shadow

[Ufopolitics]

Merry Christmas to All

Hello Everyone...participating or just watching this Thread...

Please let the Spirit of Christmas bring Us into a Unified Gathering of Manhood...trying with all our efforts to make out of this Planet, a better one...a Planet Free from Oil Dependency...for ever.


Then let it be Peace and Love forever, evolving into a Higher Civilized Race.


Amen


Respectfully and very Seriously



Ufopolitics