Figuera Device, Part G Continuum.( Serious Builders Only)

[marathonman]

Part G

Shadow;

Nice looking mount, man that motor sure looks good mounted. was wondering if you plan to mount another piece of plexy to mount your speed control and electronics on in front or beside the motor.?
just curious.

it will when i an finished.

UFOP;
sounds like some good advise.

MM

[marathonman]

Part G

Part G is the whole key to the device. trying to change the primary, secondary configurations will do nothing but confuse and waste time.

once part G is set the rest will follow. the words of Doug are shouting at me hard, build the original first the go hog wild after that.

income tax almost here, build time will recommence.

MM

[Shadow119g]

Stuff

MM
"mount another piece of plexy to mount your speed control and electronics/'

Great idea, the speed control will be mounted nest to the Tachometer.
I have two tachometers from years ago...will try those first.

Good luck everyone,

Shadow

[marathonman]

this is a good thing

It will look good shadow when you are finished.

Motor and controls are coming as are brushes, will be here next week.

new job is going great, owner loves me so i see many great things in the horizon.

MM

[marathonman]

Build

Sorry i haven't been posting, have been working a lot of hours and am exhausted when i come home crashing at 8 pm.
still need some parts to come in and will try to post some next weekend when i get a chance to build.

Heard some BS on the news that car manufacturers are going to charge more for high mileage cars from the added expense. what a crock of SH*T.
in 1933 Pogue designed a carb that got 100 mpg, in 1975 a design got 150 MPG then again in 1983 GM did a study on a carb that got 258 MPG that vaporized the fuel. why do you think Butyl is used in the production of fuel, to foul up high mileage carb's. it renders them useless in a very short time. there is no other reason for the additives those crooks use them for other then greedy profit.
Our Governments and Corporate greedy thugs are out to get your money to keep you at poverty level.
that is why this device is so important to the people of this world, to stop the suppression and advancement of each and every one of you. having this device will stop them from steeling your money and using it against you.

I dream of a free society where each individual can pursue their dreams to it's fullest.

MM

[marathonman]

More Delays

Sorry again for the delays in posting, money just doesn't go very far these days. had bills i plum forgot about that again left me broke but i got a four dollar an hour raise on my job yesterday so this coming friday i will get everything i need to resume my build and testing.

I have today off so i will be reviewing my notes and hopefully will come up with a solution to the problems people are experiencing with their part G. energy in the Figuera device is reused and not destroyed or wasted due to part G and it's inductive qualities of storing power in the form of an magnetic field for later use. this very feature can not be obtained by using resistors in any way, shape or form. some are completely oblivious to the fact that just because the patent doesn't say it specifically that it is not happening and this would be your mistake and yours only.

a condition that is happening in one part of the device does not mean it will necessarily happen in another part as the same conditions are not met causing a different condition or reaction to take place. by observing the actions and conditions of each part separately will allow one to see much more clearer. for one just to say that energy is not reused or recycled would be so far from the truth, just because the patent did not specifically say so is hilarious in it's self and if this is your belief then you are denying yourself from the truth and the glory of this device.

part G is basically a large inductor with self inductance and as we all know, well at least most of us that an inductor stores energy in the form of a magnetic field thus when the power drops the inductor will dump some of that power back into the system. every time power is introduced to the inductor it will store it as a magnetic field but because all systems are inherently losssy a portion of the output must be used to replace the losses through heat, wire and core losses.

well got to study so i will talk later.
keep up the tests folks, the end can't be to far away.

MM

[Shadow119g]

Still!

HA HA
I am still working on my part G and may start all over again.
Just the way things work!
However....I can be stubborn and "NEVER GIVE UP"
Shadow

Good luck to all!

[Cornboy 555]

Hi All, there will be no giving up from me either, been delayed with Planting garlic, 500mm of flood rain, and the consequences.

Also needing materials and tools etc, but only go to town once a fortnight.

Back on track soon hopefully.

@ Shadow, i feel for you.


Regards Cornboy.

[marathonman]

still chugging along

Haven't had much time to do much myself as my new job has taken up all my time and working 6 days a week doesn't leave much time for much leasure activity. idiots at the electronic store screwed up my order again, now i think they got it right and rest of parts are coming. i will be working on the controller and part G.

After reviewing all my notes it seams in my haste i overlooked an important issue with part G. while i was correct that the wire was thick to handle many amps i overlooked the fact that the reduction of currant and or voltage is dependent on the wires field interacting on the wire next to it and amplified by the core causing the reduction in the first place. after reviewing what Doug had used for his core and style of winding i have deduced that Doug had used around 100 plus winds on his core therefore while my thick wire will still get better reduction i am still lacking in enough currant and or voltage reduction to be at proper functionality.
I therefore will be stripping my part G and rewinding it with 10 awg square wire then hitting it with a surface grinder for smooth brush contact then building the controller on top of that. after i have a successful part G i will the redesign the electronic board to mimic the exact properties of part G controller to the T.




MM

[marathonman]

Brush Motor

Well it is about time i got the good parts in. my three phase brush motor came in and here is a pic. I will be building the housing for the motor and the mounts for the tach and speed controller this week end. hopefully i will get to a point that i can take more pics on progress. plexy did not come in so i might use wood, not that i want to i just want to build and have forward progress. darn job has taken all my time but i have this week end off.
sorry for the delay but i had no say so in the mater.

Happy building everyone.

This motor is absolutely Gorgeous.



MM

[Shadow119g]

Tach

Please let me where you got your Tachometer.

Thanks,

Shadow

[marathonman]

Tach RPM Meter

I bought this one of of EBAY for 16 bucks free shipping. you can get them cheaper from China or Hong Kong but the delivery will take up to June 1rst and i did not want to wait that long. the tach is four digit up to 9999 RPM.

this one is three wire sensor in which i will not use because the motor has the 3, three wire Hall sensors all ready built in so it will be a breeze to hook up. plus i will have a sensor for a spare if i need it in the future.

it really doesn't matter which sensor wire you hook it up to, they all have a common ground that's grey, VCC + yellow then any one of the leads #1 brown, #2 blue and #3 orange.



MM

[Shadow119g]

Great!

I will order one in a few minuets!
Thanks

[marathonman]

Tach

Tach does not work with the three phase motor. it seams that it can't read the bemf or zero crossing and just sits at zero.
i have tried wiring different ways but end with the same results. any one on this thread of followers can come up with a solution i would be very grateful.

MM

[Ufopolitics]

Tach does not work with the three phase motor. it seams that it can't read the bemf or zero crossing and just sits at zero.
i have tried wiring different ways but end with the same results. any one on this thread of followers can come up with a solution i would be very grateful.

MM

Hello MM,

Normally the Tach needs just one wire as the trigger (maybe the yellow one shown at pic), while the red and black are positive negative to source.

If your motor have a sensor (some motors do not have it -(since they use one phase as the sensor)- then the tach trigger is located in the Controller)
Another option would be to derive one phase wire from motor (yellow phase maybe?)to tach trigger yellow wire.

Normally the wire color codes for Phases are Green, Blue and Yellow in a three phase BLDC Motor...


Good luck Friend


Ufopolitics