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I asked you to build the simple 7th grade setup I showed in the video to prove to yourself that magnetic neutralization works. Did you do that? ...
Yes I did, if you're talking about simply holding a magnet in your hand and moving it near a spinning rotor of magnets powered by an electric motor, with a core placed opposite on the stator, as you showed in your recently posted video. I found it impossible to keep the handheld magnet steady and get any meaningful data. So I continued to build a fixture to hold steady all the parts as you would find on actual generator. A threaded fastener was used to position the opposition magnet.
bi
I asked you to build the simple 7th grade setup I showed in the video to prove to yourself that magnetic neutralization works. Did you do that? NO you did not, even though you claim you did. If you HAD we could have a meaningful discussion about your results. Instead you lied to everyone about building it. You're a liar and fraud who builds nothing, no matter WHAT you claim to have built.
Turion,
Look at it from a logical sciencetific prospective.
Magnetic neutralization. Define that. You say it is a method which you have devised to eliminate magnetic drag of the generator at constant speed operation. What is magnetic drag? You claim magnetic drag is the attraction, or caused by the attraction, of the magnet to the core at TDC, resulting in extra loading of the prime mover (motor). You agree that, at non-TDC positions, core/magnet attraction is cogging (or causes cogging) and that cogging does not significantly load the motor at constant speed operation. Also you agree that coils don't play a part in magnetic drag and your magnetic neutralization scheme, just the cores do, and the magnets.
When we were discussing the 7th grade experiment, your generator design used all N facing magnets on the rotor, 22 of them. No additional "neutralization" magnets were required on the rotor, just on the stator. Target was 2800 RPM (constant) for generation of your claimed 1800-2000W real power output.
I don't necessarily agree with your definitions above, but want to establish where the state of "development" was at time I designed my "7th grade experiment". Please just confirm or correct the above explanation without argument. Is it correct so far?
Once we settle that, I'll continue. Let's have a civil discussion without your insults, name-calling and ridicule.
bi
I asked you to build the simple 7th grade setup I showed in the video to prove to yourself that magnetic neutralization works. Did you do that? NO you did not, even though you claim you did. If you HAD we could have a meaningful discussion about your results. Instead you lied to everyone about building it. You're a liar and fraud who builds nothing, no matter WHAT you claim to have built.
Oh bi,
You are so silly. Do you think you will ever cajole me into showing YOU ANYTHING of importance? Maybe....the day you come out of the dark, Seņor Eunuco.
Here is the info I got from my buddy:
Coil # L-TL
Rpm 2820
Volts Preload 290 pre load
Volts under load 80 volts
Amps 0.6amps
100 watt light bulb in photo
Those numbers are for the old machine with the 12 magnet rotor. It is the same size as my rotor, just more magnets. My numbers were from the video I posted.
make sure the new cores are all gapped to the rotor magnets 60 thou or less. nice work Dave and team
Oh bi,
You are so silly. Do you think you will ever cajole me into showing YOU ANYTHING of importance? Maybe....the day you come out of the dark, Seņor Eunuco.
The old clunker machine put out exactly what I claim it did, and ran on exactly what I claim it ran on. Still DOES. STILL CAN. The problem is, it cannot run for more than about 20 minutes without overheating the iron cores. I have said this MANY TIMES. So my search has not been for a machine that works, but simply for a coil material that will produce the right amount of power, will not heat up, and does not too severely affect the ability of the machine to operate in the "Lenz neutral" neighborhood without having to run at much higher RPM (because of different core material) which would cost me more in input watts. The old clunker machine had problems with precision adjustment of the opposition magnets so a NEW machine was necessary to fix that problem.
Then I chose to build an ENTIRE NEW MACHINE with a rotor that contained all N magnets because it allowed me to use magnetic neutralization on the same set of magnets that pass by the cores. This would have allowed me to use HALF the number of magnets and would have been a far less expensive and more compact machine. But all N magnets on the rotor put out hardly any power compared to the N/S magnets on the rotor, so the entire machine had to be scrapped, and I had to start over.
Now I have a NEW machine that works PERFECTLY. Once all mechanical issues were solved, it was time to turn attention to core materials that that would not heat up. We thought we found one. The only problem is the coils do not put out NEAR as much power as the original iron core coils did. Doesn't mean the machine couldn't do EXACTLY what I claim if I put the old iron core coils in it. It could just only do it for 20-30 minutes, and that is not good enough for me.
So yes, I will wind some new coils to see if I can increase the output by adding 900 feet of wire to the coils. Thanks for being so encouraging. Ready to come out of the dark and reveal who you are? Gutless? Spineless? No tienes huevos?
After bro's post about magnets and motors, I also did a little experiment where I aligned the "hand held magnets" and slowly moved them toward the MOTOR coil rather than the generator coil, (directly across the rotor from it, just like with the generator coil) and the motor sped up. Just for fun.
Ever heard the song "No Tienes Huevos"? You can find almost anything on YouTube. But NOT for children, so our resident 7th grader may not want to watch.
...
The old clunker machine put out exactly what I claim it did, and ran on exactly what I claim it ran on. Still DOES. STILL CAN.
Turion,
That is untrue. You have no evidence and will not demonstrate it can do what you say. We've been through this before and you claim you have a flat tire on your car but it is still functional, so just because your old machine doesn't work, it's still functional. What a load of BS. It never did, can't now, never will. You continue to lie about it. Just run it for 10 minutes with input and output power meters plainly visible and show us. Show us your claimed performance of 1800-2000 watts of real power output while using less than 300 watts input.
bi
Last edited by bistander; 02-04-2022, 11:14 PM.
Reason: Typo
Ever heard the song "No Tienes Huevos"? You can find almost anything on YouTube. But NOT for children, so our resident 7th grader may not want to watch.
Yet you continue to have failure after failure to reproduce an output performance which you claim you have had the device on the shelf, functional, for years. Your one excuse used the analogy of a car with a flat tire. How long does it take you to change a tire? Yet you think you know what you're doing and refuse to recognize validity of Newton's laws. When I reference such facts you call them falsehoods.
So yes, wind some more coils and attempt to light up those bulbs. How many pounds of copper will it take? And even then, you'll buy every joule from the utility company.
Good luck.
bi
Seņor Eunuco,
The old clunker machine put out exactly what I claim it did, and ran on exactly what I claim it ran on. Still DOES. STILL CAN. The problem is, it cannot run for more than about 20 minutes without overheating the iron cores. I have said this MANY TIMES. So my search has not been for a machine that works, but simply for a coil material that will produce the right amount of power, will not heat up, and does not too severely affect the ability of the machine to operate in the "Lenz neutral" neighborhood without having to run at much higher RPM (because of different core material) which would cost me more in input watts. The old clunker machine had problems with precision adjustment of the opposition magnets so a NEW machine was necessary to fix that problem.
Then I chose to build an ENTIRE NEW MACHINE with a rotor that contained all N magnets because it allowed me to use magnetic neutralization on the same set of magnets that pass by the cores. This would have allowed me to use HALF the number of magnets and would have been a far less expensive and more compact machine. But all N magnets on the rotor put out hardly any power compared to the N/S magnets on the rotor, so the entire machine had to be scrapped, and I had to start over.
Now I have a NEW machine that works PERFECTLY. Once all mechanical issues were solved, it was time to turn attention to core materials that that would not heat up. We thought we found one. The only problem is the coils do not put out NEAR as much power as the original iron core coils did. Doesn't mean the machine couldn't do EXACTLY what I claim if I put the old iron core coils in it. It could just only do it for 20-30 minutes, and that is not good enough for me.
So yes, I will wind some new coils to see if I can increase the output by adding 900 feet of wire to the coils. Thanks for being so encouraging. Ready to come out of the dark and reveal who you are? Gutless? Spineless? No tienes huevos?
After bro's post about magnets and motors, I also did a little experiment where I aligned the "hand held magnets" and slowly moved them toward the MOTOR coil rather than the generator coil, (directly across the rotor from it, just like with the generator coil) and the motor sped up. Just for fun.
Ever heard the song "No Tienes Huevos"? You can find almost anything on YouTube. But NOT for children, so our resident 7th grader may not want to watch.
Okay Bi you keep showing your lack of grasping that there are two sections in a motor generator design we are suppose to be discussing. Don't get mad and call me everything in the book over your inability.
The motor side needs the help to overcome generator core drag, not coil drag. The generator coils do not drag down the process at any time. Glad you are asking the right questions. Does this explain my references or are you going into a tail spin?
This is a discussion on improving or assisting motor action not generator action.
#1 Motor action w/o improvements plus the Tesla generator coil COP 3X
#2 Motor action with improvements plus the Tesla generator coil COP 6X
Exactly the drag/cogging is less and the power consumed is less. Right. You will finally get what we have been sharing close to 10 years. The other guys need to catch up also with your new level of reality. Remember Dave has lead the way you have perverted the way.
This is why I try to ignore you. I must try harder not to attempt any intelligent discourse with you because of your lack of intelligence. All those little magnets might speed up the motor when you move them around, but they do nothing to improve generation at constant frequency under load, which is the whole purpose of the generator. So it's irrelevant. Off topic. Go on topic and prove claims of more real power output than input. 10 years and not a single joule of "Free Energy". Just piles of wasted copper, iron and plastic. Junk.
bi
You said "speeding up a motor for free using a magnet is real."
So what? I never said otherwise. It is just irrelevant.
bi
Exactly the drag/cogging is less and the power consumed is less. Right. You will finally get what we have been sharing close to 10 years. The other guys need to catch up also with your new level of reality. Remember Dave has lead the way you have perverted the way.
I the video I made the rotor does have all N magnets on it. It has to in order to work with a simple reed switch to power the motor coil.
Anybody who builds a replication of what I showed in the video and cannot get the magnet (I held in my hand in the video) to properly affect the generator coil (when it is under load) the way it does in the video (when it is under load) is welcome to email me at dvd.bowling@gmail.com and I will explain to them WHY and what you have to do.
I didn’t show that the generator coil was under load in the video. It was, but with all N magnets on the rotor it BARELY lit up an LED. Nothing impressive. The important thing is the drag caused by the magnet in the generator coil it “neutralized.
And the magnetic neutralization works just like I said and showed in the video.
Your continued false statements about the simple mechanics of my generator and questions about it simply prove to anyone that you have NO understanding of the way it is even put together. LOL.
I have proved magnetic neutralization works with a 7th grade science test that is FAR simpler than the complicated arrangement on the generator, yet applies EXACTLY the same principles, and now you are grasping at straws because you have no answer and YOUR 7th grade science test didn’t work because you have no idea what you are doing
You are hilarious and pathetic at the same time. But just keep digging yourself into a hole. Eventually it will become a tunnel.
Yet you continue to have failure after failure to reproduce an output performance which you claim you have had the device on the shelf, functional, for years. Your one excuse used the analogy of a car with a flat tire. How long does it take you to change a tire? Yet you think you know what you're doing and refuse to recognize validity of Newton's laws. When I reference such facts you call them falsehoods.
So yes, wind some more coils and attempt to light up those bulbs. How many pounds of copper will it take? And even then, you'll buy every joule from the utility company.
Good luck.
bi
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