The bistander thread

[BroMikey]

I show some pictures


image_22035.jpg image_22036.jpg image_22034.jpg image_22032(2).jpg

Nice work Alex. Your pictures are very small

[alexelectric]

Alex, what are you using for your core material? I've been doing research and have decided to use varnished electrical steel laminates. This will need to be square section and won't be prone to eddy currents but will be more likely to saturate. What guage wire will you be using? I'm going to use a Makita with 2,000 rpm variable speed and gear up with toothed belt.

What I am using is copper, as you can see, # 23, 256 feet, and afterwards one can go to another type of conductor and characteristics, to look for more capacitance, there are other options that can be experienced.

For the core I am for now with welding rods.

The first thing is to test with the basic elements, since it is tested with these materials, and since satisfactory results are obtained, I will go on to test with other materials, Mr. Dave who has years and experience in this, he is advancing along with his friends.

It seems simple, but it takes you time to make the coils, wiring, assemble the generator support, magnets, etc., but it is interesting to experiment, if everything turns out well, continue, and if it does not work, it is evaluated why? continues to work on improving or looking for other forms of generation, but it is very exciting to continue with the experiments, all prototypes are subject to further refinement.

[BroMikey]

It's always worth while keeping an eye on the opposition!
Screenshot_20210312-231156_Chrome~2.jpg

https://assets.atlasobscura.com/arti...0304/image.jpg

[Quantum_well]

It's always worth while keeping an eye on the opposition!
Screenshot_20210312-231156_Chrome~2.jpg

[Quantum_well]

Jumble.
Screenshot_20210312-224049_Chrome~2.jpg

[Quantum_well]

Alex, what are you using for your core material? I've been doing research and have decided to use varnished electrical steel laminates. This will need to be square section and won't be prone to eddy currents but will be more likely to saturate. What guage wire will you be using? I'm going to use a Makita with 2,000 rpm variable speed and gear up with toothed belt.

[alexelectric]

I show some pictures


image_22035.jpg image_22036.jpg image_22034.jpg image_22032(2).jpg

[alexelectric]

I am going to make an attempt at replicating your work Dave on a very small scale to see what a few coils can do. This will be 100 percent documented and I will take photos and videos along the way. I currently live in a small apartment but I have some bench space for a replication. I think I have a motor and power supply that will work.

-Altrez

I can tell you how I did it,

For the 12 thread bobbin, I number each thread on each spool from 1 to 12, to put them in order.
In the winder I have two bars where in each one I incorporate 6 reels, in order of the numbering.

First bar 1 to 6
Second bar 7 to 12

I have the beginnings of each thread, I mark each of them with tape, to have the beginnings marked.

First thread 1 I
Second wire 2 I
Third wire 3 I and so on

When I start wrapping all the threads (12 threads) on the main spool, I try to make them all go in order, as far as possible.

When I finish winding I have the ends of each thread, and since I have them in order, I mark each end again with tape.

End of first thread 1 O
End of second thread 2 O
End of third thread 3 O and so on.

In this way I already have all the wires with their inputs 1 I (1 Input) and all outputs 1 O (1 Out) and so on.

In this way, in the end I avoid looking for the corresponding threads, it is one more way, it seems that Mr. Dave used colors.

It only remains at the end to make the connections, in this way it is easier for me to connect the beginning with the end, for serial connections
example 1 O (1 out) with the start of 2 I (2 Input),
2 O (2 out) with the start of 3 I (3 Input) and so on.

This is the way that enables me to make the connections, any questions, I will gladly guide you.

[alexelectric]

Here is the schematic
It can be changed according to what you want
This is the connection that gives you 130 volts, according to Mr. Dave's specifications.

It already depends on what you want, voltage ?, amps ?, you can change the configuration.

I remember that in one of the tests, I put it all in series, I had an oversight, my voltage whiplash.
image_22021.png

[Turion]

I think the confusion is we are talking about two different things. Quantum was talking about how coils are wired NOW and his description was correct and his drawing is correct

You were commenting on what I said about CHANGING that configuration to get lower voltage and higher amps and use a simple cap to get the capacitance that wiring in parallel and connecting in series provides and YOU are correct.

[Quantum_well]

This is how I see twelve strands, four in series then in parallel.
IMG_20210312_144639~2.jpg

[bistander]

... Now that I know we are going to run the machine at around 3,000 RPM I can start looking for what capacitor gives us neutral coils with all 12 wires in parallel I want to see what voltage I get, and how many amps. ...

???????????????
bi

[Turion]

Four strands in series and three WIRES in parallel from the SAME coil.

[Quantum_well]

Bistander I think he's using four strands in series and then three coils in parallel.


Using 22 magnets, new cores, 10 coils, going to 12 strands in parallel, realize that you're changing many design features all at once. Conventional wisdom would establish a known working benchmark and make one change at a time from there. But you ignore convention. So there will be lots of excuses for you to choose from.

[Turion]

I won't change anything without talking to you first. Seriously. Once this is up and running with the new cores, I will work with everyone possible to get this to where it needs to be. I want the best machine I can get when I present at the conference.

From my friend tonight:

"When I said I have tons of this *%^#% I literally have tons. Most of these sizes we are not even using anymore. Should you choose to go this route there is no reason to buy any *%^#% I have straight 10 ft. lengths of all sizes and no money in it. It will sit till it oxidizes and turn grey and the scrap man gets it. I have machines set up to cut it and bend it with stops made and measurements known, If you like the design. I will cut it, bend it and ship it to you at no charge. All you got to do is glue em together. I have developed a simple glue and assembly process that is repeatable and works. Now point #2. You are testing permalloy. If that works out, we know the sizes and combos that fit the holes. We could order permalloy together in 0.120 or what ever we decide on and I can calculate the amount needed, cut and bend it and we could use this design. The adjustment part works great and I do believe each core/ rotor clearance will have to be set individually. It is the only way to be accurate. I cut all my plastic disks for my core adjustments today. I cut up all 3 sizes of *%^#% for 10 cores in under an hour tonight."