Multifilar Generator Coil - Lenz delay Experiments

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive words and good tips.
Fried my boost converter on another project, will have to order another one.
Yes, barrier will be in place when coil/cores are ready to be tested.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi bromikey, thanks for the positive words and good tips.
Fried my boost converter on another project, will have to order another one.
Yes, barrier will be in place when coil/cores are ready to be tested.
peace love light

You are welcome kind Sir, here is the one to buy. It will not
blow up at 5-7 amps but I wouldn't go any higher. china ratings are
inaccurate. This is the one I use and it works for the 3 battery Gen. $22
Good for hard starts.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Numerical-control-digital-display-DC-DC-DC-step-up-420W-constant-pressure-consta/162412821347?_trkparms=aid%3D333200%26algo%3DCOMP. MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D59178%26meid%3D10b10b913dca4a da8fb5b821ff47106f%26pid%3D100008%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3 D12%26sd%3D202533914425%26itm%3D162412821347%26pg% 3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100008.m2219

[BroMikey]

This one is around the same price and has a fan for the bigger
jobs but if you run this 900w booster at 100-200 watts it will have
a higher efficiency than the small popcorn peanut boosters for
a couple $3 dollars

https://www.ebay.com/itm/900W-Digita....c100005.m1851

[alexelectric]

Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for sharing the cool videos.
Liking his bailing wire u-cores, will be thinking about that.

Mounted the magnet rotor, though had to use wood rotor support guides, to keep the rotor parallel to the shaft.
Shaft flutters slightly, needs to be probably 1/2" at least, or move bearings in closer, though should still work fine.
peace love light

Here is latest video.
https://youtu.be/OwyVjeSEdx0

regards SkyWatcher
what a good project you are doing, surely you will achieve your goal, interestingly show your progress, and move forward with the comments of the most experienced colleagues, congratulations

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the links, will be getting something like that at some point.
Hi alexelectric, thanks for the positive words, doing my best with what is available to me.

Started using 24 volt input and had some problems with the aluminum tape holding properly on one of the shaft spacers.
Though a switch to 1/2" diameter shaft will fix all of that.

For now, decided to set aside the two pillow block bearings and threaded rod shaft and went directly off the double drill chuck motor adapter.
It almost looks like the rotor is rotating faster at 24 volts, then when it was 3000 rpm on the drill press motor.
Maybe just illusion, will check with meter to be sure of rpm.
One thing is noticeable though, the amp draw is much lower without the drag of the 2 pillow block bearings, more than 1 amp less on 12 volts and probably more when using 24 volts input.
At 12 volts input, it was 1.75 amps with the pillow block bearings and no coil/cores.
And at 24 volts input, it is .7 amps directly off the drill chuck adapter, so probably half that amp input on 12 volts.

So, will be testing this way for now and can always build a plate to mount more coil/cores.
At 25 strands on the 30awg. coil/core, it is close to lenz neutral, will be adding some more strands in series to find the neutral point and then see what the output is and what loads it can power.
Then will test the large coil and see if that is anywhere near lenz neutral, with the seemingly higher rpm rotor.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hi all, Hi bromikey, thanks for the links, will be getting something like that at some point.

One thing is noticeable though, the amp draw is much lower without
the drag of the 2 pillow block bearings,

And at 24 volts input, it is .7 amps directly off the drill chuck adapter

Glad to hear that, I am still in the hardware phase. For instance stainless
steel (SS) machine bolts can be used and this keeps the flux leakage
down for mounting. Buying these now by the bag full.

The other thing on my mind is fiberglass (Epoxy board) 1/4" and up to
1/2". The price to buy them is in the 1000's. You can go to the boat
builder suppies and buy roving, cloth and mat plus resin make your
own for $1000 less. That is how expensive a real fiberglass board is.

Even small prototypes can run up the bill SKY high.

Your .7amps @24 is excellent, it will be far more evident that this is the
right way to go when loading the coil. This will be what you want,
sensitive to all changes.

Concerning pillow blocks and the jack shaft as it is called, I spend lots
of time cutting drag and amp draw in half by running the the rotor and
tapping on the bolt area of the bearing to get a perfect alignment.

This is where you learn about a good coupler for a $1 that is flexible.

You can get away with going direct off the motor for a light rotor. you
are doing fine.

[alexelectric]

regards
a query I'm about to build the coil proposed by turion, where it specifies
what I would like to know how to really make the coil of
turion
12 strands of # 23 each 253 feet in length with four strands connected in series, giving me three wires on my coil.
I have to have the 12 strands, and then all together, go winding them up and then make the connections, if they can help me by being more specific.
I would like if you can show me an image where I eat or photos, how to make the connections, or if there is already a post where it is shown with images how to make it shared.

it is important for me not to do it wrong and have wasted time

young greetings from talent and creativity, Turion, BroMikey, SkyWatcher

[alexelectric]

thanks for the explanation

thanks for the explanation in the video Turion
I show an image of how the coil will be made to make it clearer.
I prepare the 12 strips of wire at # 23 each 253 feet,
and then we proceed to roll them all 12 strips at the same time, all at once, is that so?
also attached the image of the size of the coil that you propose
and then I make the connections as in the image
This configuration is the one that you most recommend turion
12 strands of # 23 each 253 feet in length with four strands connected in series
your best tips will guide me to build this coil well and thanks for everything you share

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, thanks bromikey for the tips.
May try something like the braided hose when the pillow block bearings are used again at some point, to compare to the drill chuck adapter.
Yes, can easily see changes now on the regular amp meter with the scooter motor.
Have been distracted from the project temporarily, will be finding the neutral zone tomorrow some time and checking coil output and rpm's.

Hi alexelectric, my coil bobbin is only a 1/16" plastic wall thickness, where the coil wraps around the core, 1/8" is probably too thick.
peace love light

[alexelectric]

Hi all, thanks bromikey for the tips.
May try something like the braided hose when the pillow block bearings are used again at some point, to compare to the drill chuck adapter.
Yes, can easily see changes now on the regular amp meter with the scooter motor.
Have been distracted from the project temporarily, will be finding the neutral zone tomorrow some time and checking coil output and rpm's.

Hi alexelectric, my coil bobbin is only a 1/16" plastic wall thickness, where the coil wraps around the core, 1/8" is probably too thick.
peace love light

thanks SkyWatcher very important what you share, I will appreciate what size I decide for the coil
but if I wanted to start with what has been successfully tested like the ones that turion has shown, since he also comments that if we follow his instructions we will succeed.
since you do several, it gives you confidence and expertise to make changes

[BroMikey]

Loosely wound multi-filar filaments may fail to show consistent results.
keeping a reasonable amount of tension during winding is important
and not as easy as it may seem. This is why winders or winding machines
are used.

[alexelectric]

Thank you BroMikey, Turion

Your affirmations help me,
another question, when rolling can go normally,
or they should be rolled up on themselves and then rolled up on the support
since I saw a photo in another section I show them

[alexelectric]

ok, as soon as I have the coil I show you the photos

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, was testing the setup today with the 51 strand coil.
It appears the motor with 12 volt input at .45 amps with only one coil/core, turns the magnet rotor at 1725 rpm.
At 24 volts input at .75 amps, runs rotor at 3450 rpm.

With 25 watt incandescent bulb load across 51 strands in series, there is slight speed up, though not much power.
Half the strands are connected together using the european plastic connectors and turion said that may cause an issue with getting power, his bulbs did not light when using connectors.
Will be thinking about what the next step will be.
peace love light

[alexelectric]

that connector

Half the strands are connected together using the european plastic connectors and turion said that may cause an issue with getting power, his bulbs did not light when using connectors.
Will be thinking about what the next step will be.
peace love light

if you have problems using that connector in the coil connections.
I would like to know how Turion solved it, so as not to have that problem