Multifilar Generator Coil - Lenz delay Experiments

[Turion]

Two motors

I am turning my rotor with my original DC motor. Call this the “run” motor.

My generator coils have to be connected to a load to speed up under load. Instead of connecting them to 300 watt AC light bulbs as I HAVE been, I decided to connect them to an AC motor to run it. There are two wires coming off the coil. There are two wires on the motor. Those wires are connected together. Now the coil output runs directly to the AC motor. But because there are WINDINGS in the AC motor, the coil sees this as more wire that has to be filled up with electricity before the coil is turned into an electromagnet. More CAPACITANCE. It’s like adding several thousand feet of wire to the coil. What happens? The coil takes longer to fill with electricity and turn into an electromagnet, so speeds up the run motor (cthe DC motor) at a LOWER RPM.

The coil MUST have a load on it before it can speed up the run motor. That load can add capacitance to the coil and affect the required RPM.

That’s all I’m trying to say.

[BroMikey]

I am turning my rotor with my original DC motor. Call this the “run” motor.

My generator coils have to be connected to a load to speed up under load. Instead of connecting them to 300 watt AC light bulbs as I HAVE been, I decided to connect them to an AC motor to run it. There are two wires coming off the coil. There are two wires on the motor. Those wires are connected together. Now the coil output runs directly to the AC motor. But because there are WINDINGS in the AC motor, the coil sees this as more wire that has to be filled up with electricity before the coil is turned into an electromagnet. More CAPACITANCE. It’s like adding several thousand feet of wire to the coil. What happens? The coil takes longer to fill with electricity and turn into an electromagnet, so speeds up the run motor (cthe DC motor) at a LOWER RPM.

The coil MUST have a load on it before it can speed up the run motor. That load can add capacitance to the coil and affect the required RPM.

That’s all I’m trying to say.

Thank you for being redundant. That is what I need. I have always had
some learning disability and I jump to conclusions sometimes.

NOW I GET IT. And that is what I came for. This is good data. I guess
I will see just how slow I can get speed up using an induction AC motor
as a load. Awesome. I like these experiments.

[BroMikey]

I am turning my rotor with my original DC motor.
Call this the “run” motor.
The coil takes longer to fill with electricity and turn into an electromagnet,
so speeds up the run motor (cthe DC motor) at a LOWER RPM.

The coil MUST have a load on it before it can speed up the run motor.
That load can add capacitance to the coil and affect the required RPM.

That’s all I’m trying to say.

It must have been significantly lower for you to mention. Were you
getting speed up at 1000rpm's? It seems like I remember you already
got one of your coils speeding up at 1600rpm's with all of the wires
in series. You probably wanted more current so you are using 3 circuits
of around a 1000 ft each and 2800 rpm's is normal. How much under
2800rpm's were you able to get speed up?

Even 2200rpm's would be good.Induction motors have several hundred
ft of wire on them. Several thousand feet? I guess you have a tiny ceiling
motor? I don't know about that, seems like a lot.

Here is a ceiling motor winding, looks like hair thin wire. You are
right AGAIN You could put 130vac into one of those and not
stress it out to badly.




https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-168WInewo...907_121220.jpg

[Turion]

Data

All the data I have shared on the forum was for my big machine, which had six of the 2” magnets on it that were 1/4” thick. When I went with the thicker rotor there were pairs of those magnets on the rotor with a thin piece of plastic between them, but still just six magnet (pairs). So 2800 rpm was the required RPM to get speed up under load. 12 coils at 120-130 volts and 1.5 amps per coil. My current rotor has 12 magnet pair and I have seen speed up as low as 1600 RPM. The magnets are smaller in diameter, but have almost the same mass because they are way thicker. I’m fairly sure it will speed up under load at LOWER RPM. BECAUSE, doubling the number of magnets is not the only change that was made.

The original coils on the 2800 RPM machine were 3 strands at 1000 feet each, but I went down to 800 foot strands to bring the voltage down to 120 volts.

Current coils are 12 strands of 250 feet each, with four strands in each group connected in series. I still end up with 3 wires coming off the coil so amp output is the about the same, but speed up under load RPM goes down.

The capacity of these coils is greater, so that means a greater output as a generator coil. I haven’t measured the output and won’t until I get the generator back together.

If your goal is to bring down the RPM for speed up under load, you have 2 choices
1. Add more magnets to the rotor.
2. Add more strands of wire in parallel connected in series.
You can still have roughly the same total amount of wire on your coil, but just shorter strands and more of them. Gives you more in parallel connected in series and more capacitance.

I guess I was very vague about the AC ceiling fan. It was an EXHAUST fan in the bathroom ceiling. An entirely different kind of motor. Sorry about the confusion.

[BroMikey]

All the data I have shared on the forum was for my big machine, which had six of the 2” magnets on it that were 1/4” thick. When I went with the thicker rotor there were pairs of those magnets on the rotor with a thin piece of plastic between them, but still just six magnet (pairs). So 2800 rpm was the required RPM to get speed up under load. 12 coils at 120-130 volts and 1.5 amps per coil. My current rotor has 12 magnet pair and I have seen speed up as low as 1600 RPM. The magnets are smaller in diameter, but have almost the same mass because they are way thicker. I’m fairly sure it will speed up under load at LOWER RPM. BECAUSE, doubling the number of magnets is not the only change that was made.

The original coils on the 2800 RPM machine were 3 strands at 1000 feet each, but I went down to 800 foot strands to bring the voltage down to 120 volts.

Current coils are 12 strands of 250 feet each, with four strands in each group connected in series. I still end up with 3 wires coming off the coil so amp output is the about the same, but speed up under load RPM goes down.

The capacity of these coils is greater, so that means a greater output as a generator coil. I haven’t measured the output and won’t until I get the generator back together.

If your goal is to bring down the RPM for speed up under load, you have 2 choices
1. Add more magnets to the rotor.
2. Add more strands of wire in parallel connected in series.
You can still have roughly the same total amount of wire on your coil, but just shorter strands and more of them. Gives you more in parallel connected in series and more capacitance.

I guess I was very vague about the AC ceiling fan. It was an EXHAUST fan in the bathroom ceiling. An entirely different kind of motor. Sorry about the confusion.

Took your picture again

[BroMikey]

If your goal is to bring down the RPM for speed up under load,
you have 2 choices
1. Add more magnets to the rotor.
2. Add more strands of wire in parallel connected in series.

Absolutely is a great goal because anytime we can bring down the RPM
the longevity on the apparatus is increased for one thing. The other thing
is that as RPM goes down the safety concerns or danger is reduced as
parts wear down and begin to fail.

RPM's of 3000-4000-5000 would require a higher degree of precision
brought about by CNC machining, metallurgy, mechanical teams to
construct for a smaller more powerful output for way less money.

Did you ever use a high RPM generator for extended periods in the field
to run saws and lights? Those poor machines run 3600 RPM's and
degrade very rapidly. You know when she's gonna blow.

On the other hand if you also had a chance to
run an ONAN Generator at the same construction site you will
understand the difference that RPM makes.

As you work in the field using a screaming generator your nerves are
constantly bombarded and you can tell that is diminishing day by day
till one day you go buy another for fear you will be out of power.
The other one still runs but you have to be ready.

The Onan Gen runs for years and rarely fails, never making you wonder
if it is going to hang in there. This is how I look at a slower moving rotor.
The Onan runs at a crawl of 1800 rpm. Now you can rest easy.

Bigger rotor, bigger winding, bigger engine for slow speeds, see below.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yf2zP2UTK6A


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRJYAs5DOs8





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[Turion]

Rpm

With reduced RPM your output is less. BUT we know how to compensate for that don’t we? You have a bigger rotor with MORE magnets and MORE coils.

In the past they couldn’t keep reducing the rpm and still achieve more output because they were limited in the number of coils they could add by both the magnetic drag and Lenz (and at low enough speeds the effects of cogging) We have shown how to eliminate both. The slower you want to go, the bigger the coil and the bigger the magnets (And MORE of both of course)

[BroMikey]

With reduced RPM your output is less. BUT we know how to compensate for that don’t we? You have a bigger rotor with MORE magnets and MORE coils.

In the past they couldn’t keep reducing the rpm and still achieve more output because they were limited in the number of coils they could add by both the magnetic drag and Lenz (and at low enough speeds the effects of cogging) We have shown how to eliminate both. The slower you want to go, the bigger the coil and the bigger the magnets (And MORE of both of course)

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=187&v=AAJojRJXIV8[/VIDEO]

[lotec]

Speed up with Indctive load.

When speed up is achieved with an inductive load and has leveled out, it might be possible to make it continue to speed up by gradually lowering the inductance of the load until it is going fast enough to bypass the inductor.

Three possible ways to do this might be, use a large inductor with a removable core and gradually pull the core out until it is just an air coil, or have a multi-tapped inductor, or use the primary of of a transformer that has a higher inductance than the motor coils when unloaded, then gradually cancel out that inductance by increasing the load on the transformer.

[BroMikey]

fast enough to bypass the inductor.

Three possible ways to do this might be, use a large inductor with a removable core and gradually pull the core out until it is just an air coil, or have a multi-tapped inductor, or use the primary of of a transformer that has a higher inductance than the motor coils when unloaded, then gradually cancel out that inductance by increasing the load on the transformer.

Did you try one of these? Remember you need power output also.
Which one of the three can you demonstrate? Or have you done them
all? Generators today can not be adjusted this way. Do you have such
a motor generator? Or did you want me to run the test?

Any data to support these possible solutions?

Thanks in advance.

[lotec]

Did you try one of these? Remember you need power output also.
Which one of the three can you demonstrate? Or have you done them
all? Generators today can not be adjusted this way. Do you have such
a motor generator? Or did you want me to run the test?

Any data to support these possible solutions?

Thanks in advance.

HI BroMikey,
It wasn't my intention to get anyones hopes up too high. I haven't tried or are able too demonstrate any of these. I was just running with the idea of an inductive load causing amperage and maybe ti's magnetic field to lag causing the rotor speedup, The idea of gradually lowering the inductance was just a method to adjust the timing, much like the vacuum advance on the old gasoline motors.

I should have been more clear. The idea was intended to be a motor speed controller. I don't think that alot of power could be taken from it because of the inductive impedance that would be created. If it worked at all and the rotor speed could be accelerated to the point where the inductor could be bypassed and the coils are getting hot from being shorted to much, maybe then a restive load could be put across the coil,

For it to work at all the think that the hardware would have to optimized for that and the coils would have to induct powerfully. It's a busy time of year for me and my current attempt at a machine is a while off. If you have a machine assembled and the idea interests you, you are welcome to try it. If you do, please share data.

Regards

[SkyWatcher]

Hi all, have been testing the solid state multifilar coil generator.

It seems the same effect may be manifesting.
Using a drive coil/core that is using pulsed dc (joule thief style) and a 26 strand coil/core, in-line and in front of that, cores touching or with a small air gap, the small air gap gives a little more voltage.

With the correct frequency range, using a low ohm resistor connected across series wired multifilar coil, the input amps decrease and an audible increase in oscillator frequency can be heard.
Also have an led bulb off the drive coil, connected to flyback diode and that gets a little brighter at the same time.
This test was only drawing around 1 watt.

Will be testing this further and would also like to setup a flip flop drive circuit, to see if an AC drive will be any better.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Sounds like 1 watt in and you can light an LED bulb? Maybe like
the joule thief? Can you show the setup, I am lost to know what is
being said.

BTW I take back what i said, Thane only used a bifilar coil not a 26
wire coil. Should be interesting. All in series? Humm..
Got a vid or diagram?

The amplifier drive was only for the BITOROID on steroids but it won't
hurt to try it. The Bitt as we call it uses an alternation flux path to benefit
from PF keeping the input the same. maybe you can do this with your
setup? Hum...? Let me know.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi bromikey, will post a pic tomorrow sometime, busy with some other things at the moment.

The 120vac. 6 watt led bulb, is just placed across the drive coil diode flyback, so it protects the transistor a bit.

Using a low ohm resistor across multifilar coil/core as load.

As the pot. on the joule thief transistor base is varied, it does seem if the frequency is too low, the amp input does increase under load.

Though when brought high enough, the input decreases under load and frequency increases and led bulb goes a little brighter.

That seems similar to the mechanical version, maybe.
peace love light

[BroMikey]

Hey sky maybe Turion knows what might happen, he did some of those
joule thief's, but me thinks the spike will destroy your bulb leds

Ain't it the pits. Now then using 26 series strands for a secondary is a whole
new ball game. Not sure what to try for kicks.

Dave knows more than he lets on. Try ANOTHER BASIC FREE ENERGY DEVICE