What wire gauge Radiant Energy likes most?

[Sephiroth]

wow! thats a big coil!

I've been thinking of using a company to make some better coils for me... just for scale how wide is that spool? I was thinking of getting 1000 turn twisted trifilars with 22 guage wire but perhaps that will be TOO big! lol

[ren]

Gmeat, did you swap your 18 gauge coil into your sg setup without changing circuit values? What sort of amp draw did you have? I have found that a thicker wire will draw more but when setup correctly it will charge much better. Another important piece of information I have gleaned is trying to match your coil to your battery. This makes sense, design your circuit to impedance match your charge source. 150ft of awg 18 is pretty close to 1 ohm, which I have read is close to the internal resistance of a new battery.

My window motor was recently drawing 1 amp on a thicker winding but charging really well. New 7 amp hours charging to 14v in 6-7 hours. I added two light bulbs to the trigger and the amp draw dropped to 500ma without really affecting the charging time!

[elias]

wow! thats a big coil!

I've been thinking of using a company to make some better coils for me... just for scale how wide is that spool? I was thinking of getting 1000 turn twisted trifilars with 22 guage wire but perhaps that will be TOO big! lol

My spool is 9cm (about 3.5inches) in diameter and 8cm in length. With #22 wire you may be able to go up to 1000 turns on such a spool. But I don't know if adding more filars instead of more turns is better or not. A guy used 30x#23 wires (about 40ft length each) and claimed a good charge.

[elias]

Gmeat, did you swap your 18 gauge coil into your sg setup without changing circuit values? What sort of amp draw did you have? I have found that a thicker wire will draw more but when setup correctly it will charge much better. Another important piece of information I have gleaned is trying to match your coil to your battery. This makes sense, design your circuit to impedance match your charge source. 150ft of awg 18 is pretty close to 1 ohm, which I have read is close to the internal resistance of a new battery.

My window motor was recently drawing 1 amp on a thicker winding but charging really well. New 7 amp hours charging to 14v in 6-7 hours. I added two light bulbs to the trigger and the amp draw dropped to 500ma without really affecting the charging time!

I think that battery impedance is in the Milli-Ohm range when is getting fully charged. So lesser the impedance the charging must be better. Impedance is related to current flow isn't it? if we are not charging our batteries with current then why should it matter so much?

[gmeat]

I guess I'm a noob at this stuff...

Hi Ren,


Let me start by saying I dont have any backround in electronics (but I'm trying to learn).Ok, Now that you know your dealing with a knucklehead lol, I'm not sure what you mean by circuit values but heres my setup.

1/2n3055 transistor

2/5k variable pot and 100ohm resistor with 12v 25ma light on the trigger coil that keeeps blowing and pissing me off and I'm currently thinking of investing in light bulb stocks lol.

3/1n4001 diode accross the base and emitter and a 1n4007 between the collector and charge battery.

4/I have 1 bifilar coil with about 400' of #23 and #20 guage wire.I make my own core using magnetite and crushed glass and epoxy that in the coil while holding a north pole over the top of the coil while it sets up.I also just made the #18 bifilar coil with 100' lengths of wire.

5/I 'm currently using 1" round by 1" long neo N42's that I just could'nt resist using even know those were meant for a Muller generator.

6/My battery bank includes 4 new walmart 275cca batteries and 2 other tractor batteries i had fermenting in the back yard which 1 of them has been revived and holding charge very well.

As far as the #18 guage coil it does Flash between .9 and 1 ohm resistance on the meter.Unfortunately The amp part of my meter is on the blink as I think I blew the fuse ooops, So I'm not sure what kind of amperage I'm drawing but I would like to know.I have to make the umpteenth trip to Radio shack soon to pick up a new meter and fuse lol.I currently use the light bulb to guesstimate amperage which i set to about a little below its brightest point, although I sometimes move it around a bit to see where the best charge to the battery seems to be.And that brings up an interesting thing that i noticed between the 2 coils.When I use my #20-#23 coil i noticed that when I put more resistance on the pot the motor will speed up until I reach a point of to much resistance and the motor cuts out.Whereas with the #18 coil it acts the opposite meaning the more resistance I put the slower the motor goes which is a good thing with regard to this coil because my bearings on my wheel are only 1/4 inch and I had to replace them yesterday after the motor almost disintergrated lol,it's just to fast.Anyways,I'm not sure if that is a normal thing or not but would like to hear some input.can any of you guys guess as to the amperage I'm using with regard to the lightbulb.Thx for the kind suggestions.......(I think!)


-gmeatdaddy

[ren]

Ok G. Dont worry were all amatuers when it comes to this stuff

I'll start by saying that the neos will do more harm than good. If you must use the neos use them with a coreless application, like the window motor. They will give you some speed though so make sure your rotors up to scratch. If you can get some decent domino size ferrite/ceramics they will not saturate the core so much.

Second thing. When your light is at its brightest is when you are drawing the most current from your run battery usually. This may be your sweet spot, however try getting your rotor up to speed then knocking your pot back (id try a much smaller pot say a 1k) until the light dims to just glowing. This will be a reduced current draw, but hopefully a similar speed. When you vary the resistance you are changing the time at which the coil fires.

You've noticed that the 18 gauge just slowed down the more you turned your resistance up. This indicates to me that the resistance is too high to begin with. Remember that you have 100 ohms as a base resistance + light, but as soon as you turn that 5k pot your resistance will jump up to like 500 ohms in the first few millimeters. Looking at all the schematics for a thicker wire I have noticed that the resistance is set much lower. Ricks self runner has a total of about 150 ohms (2 WATT RATED) on the trigger if I remember correctly.

My window motor with thicker winding ran at one amp draw on anything over 200 ohms. I managed to get it to 500ma with two 12v lights and a 10 ohm 1 watt resistor. Still charges just as well and draws half as much. You're best to build a complete new circuit for your different coil, prefeably with the mjl transistor, but the 2n will still work ok.

You can get a new fuse for your meter, but make sure you've hooked it up right first. Many beginners dont realise you need to have the plugs in the right holes to test amp draw. Set to amp setting and place plugs into appropriate holes. Remember you are testing how much current is flowing through the circuit, so you dont use your points on the positive and negative termial like checking a batteries voltage. Put one on the terminal and connect the other to the positive of your circuit so that the only way your circuit can work is if the current flows through your meter first. Consider buying an analogue gauge/meter for amp draw as these are more consistant and usually alot harder to blow up!

Ok Ive rambled on enough.....

[ren]

Elias, I believe that setting the impedance relates to the way the energy flows in this circuit. I am only passing on what I have learned from others who are seemingly more knowledgeable about this. JB himself suggests the use of AWG 18 to the advanced groups. I have found that the wire, when thicker, can draw more, but also charges better. I guess its a natural step up to charge a larger battery.

Someone else can clarify, but what I think happens is radiant energy seeks places of high impedance. This is why the collapsing field chooses to jump across the collectors diode and head towards the area of high impedance (flat battery). Please dont take this as gospel, and anyone feel free to step in and correct me here.

[gmeat]

Good input

Hi Ren,

Thanks for the good input.I know I have to change the neos soon.maybe this weekend I'll get around to making a new rotor with cheaper magnets.I'm also going to get a new meter hopefully tomorrow on the way home from work.Again thx for the help.


-Gary

[elias]

This makes sense very much

Elias, I believe that setting the impedance relates to the way the energy flows in this circuit. I am only passing on what I have learned from others who are seemingly more knowledgeable about this. JB himself suggests the use of AWG 18 to the advanced groups. I have found that the wire, when thicker, can draw more, but also charges better. I guess its a natural step up to charge a larger battery.

Someone else can clarify, but what I think happens is radiant energy seeks places of high impedance. This is why the collapsing field chooses to jump across the collectors diode and head towards the area of high impedance (flat battery). Please dont take this as gospel, and anyone feel free to step in and correct me here.

Ren,

Thanks, you clarified the impedance thing very much, lower the impedance of the wire, more of the Radiant jumps to the Battery. But I wonder using multi-strands instead of one big wire is better or not. Multi-strands will have more surface contact with the environment, than the single strand so maybe multi-strands are able to draw more energy from the environment. I wonder?!

Elias

[ren]

multi strands twisted as one will have a lower impedance, while having a larger surface area. But I think the best thing about multi strands are that its just like having another coil. Car goes fast? Add a turbo, car goes faster. Twin turbo? Car goes faster again! Drinks a bit more fuel (draws more amps) but the pay off when tuned correctly is worth it.

The more you amplify the effect, and the more transistors you have gateing that pulse the larger the radiant.