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  • ashtweth
    replied
    Hi lookingin welcome to the forum Brother
    Its not my PDF, it belongs to the open source community , that's what panacea is, inspired b y and here to support YOU guys.

    okay, this sounds like a perfect project, i really want people to start with the energy savings like Rev did,. its practical and can lead to a higher understanding of tuning and advanced configurations.

    Dont forget like Rev, you will need a FREQUENCY DRIVE to get more HP out of your pump, usually you get 1/3 of the rated shaft power as we are feeding it with 1/3 of tHe voltage, BUT, this has a higher and more efficient power factor, in theory you should be able to create an AC motor controller and tune the caps and still run in Rv mode with the higher and more efficient shaft power!

    looking forward to the snaps and videos

    Ash

    Leave a comment:


  • lookingin
    replied
    Need Help

    @All,
    First post, and have been a student in green machines for a long time. The Roto Verter will fit in my plans. I didn't want to start another thread.. But if you feel it should be Please move it. Here's what I have STERLING SIHI GMBH 3 PHASE electric motor and fluid pump. (New) 3 Phase 2.95 hp 3460 rpm 346/480 4.5 4.9 amps 200/280 8.5/8.0. I will post pictures very soon. I can't fine much information in the pump. It was made in Germany. It's has six wires and two very small wires. The two very small wires has a warning of over protection 2.5V. I have studied ash's PDF and will make a capacitor box very soon. It seems very close to 50hz motor.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Thanks Rev, you are getting there!

    What you will have there ATM is VARS (voltage amps reactive) or circulating current, what we need to do is transform it into usable WATTS. ATM it is not watts but reactive power, so cannot be series loaded.

    The RV way to extract this into usable watts is profiled on the RV document on the panacea university site . Don't forget to come to EVGRAY yahoo energy group and post there as well as here. Will have a new extraction Schematic done to try soon from Chad hopefully. Thanks for video Rev.

    Ash

    Leave a comment:


  • revizal
    replied
    New motor on RV setup

    Hi All,

    I bought a new 2HP 3 PH 2840 RPM motor to work in my RV Project. This motor drive my last 2HP 3PH 1400 RPM motor which will act as a generator. I coupled it by belt to get higher power output result. I got virtual circulating power output 2440 watt from 1300 watt input. May be it will give better result if I could tune the cap on the fly.

    Here is the vid:

    YouTube - RV-3 PH motor as Generator (Better Result)

    Rev.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Hi Rev, keep going its easy after this first stage and you automatically get an intuitive sense on tuning. The extraction circuits are well advanced and takes a lot of patience, this is see you have
    Please post your progress ALSO over here too Bro
    (all the RV engineers strangely only converse at this group)
    EVGRAY : zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

    Leave a comment:


  • revizal
    replied
    Hi Ash and All,

    After a couple of days to do some business I made a test on RV mode to have resonance effect on 2nd motor as alternator. I have 3 PH 3 HP motor that I used as a prime mover driving the 2 HP 3 PH motor (act as alternator) via a belt.

    I found the main thing on the system is speed/RPM. If I could get speed with lowest power input, I will get higher voltage on the alternator. And I'm sure we could control the output frequency thru this speed too. We tune the capacitor to have lowest power input on PM with the fastest we can get to get power output.

    Yes Ash, I got it. My first target is to sure the resonance work on the alternator and I got that. Next target is to tune the system with my capacitor available. We'll se..

    Here is the video link:

    YouTube - RV-Coupled 3 PH Motor as Alternator

    Thank you very much for your previously info on RV setup.

    Rev.

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    Frequency drive inverter now working!

    I played around with the pot on the hacked inverter, I found it draws from 2.3 amps at 12.3V on my battery up to about 11 Amps.

    As I increased the amps from 2.3amps to 11 amps the motor spun at faster revs. So, I could tune this per a set load which is kinda nice.

    This is progress so far. I have had many headaces to get so far as I had to fix things that I missed on the inverter, and I also took apart the motor again and removed the seals on the bearing. I have cleaned them far better than ever before with the carb cleaner and put the duralube inside.

    On a side note, my killa watt meter stopped working after I was testing the output of the inverter... hope I just blew a fuse.

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    RE: so far so good.

    Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
    Mart the pot is specified for 100K in the document, try a half a watt one.
    As for tuning, you can tune the frequency up SLOWLY, and let the motor catch up to speed, do not turn it down when its operating, be careful switching in caps, you could blow the inverter from BEMF.

    You tune it by the following procedure specified, in the compilations.
    The higher the frequency the lower the capacitance needed (RUN CAP).

    Ash
    Ash,

    Ok, I have installed the 100K pot, I have hooked up the killo watt meter to this and sometimes it comes on other times it does not, when it does come on and the killo watt metter is working, i can see the frequency move around.

    I have plugged in a light, and the inverter power it just fine...

    Any suggestions for my first power up of the inverter? My plan is put the run cap on, get the motor up to speed then turn the run cap off then note the power of the motor after that.

    Thanks for your help.

    Mart

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Mart the pot is specified for 100K in the document, try a half a watt one.
    As for tuning, you can tune the frequency up SLOWLY, and let the motor catch up to speed, do not turn it down when its operating, be careful switching in caps, you could blow the inverter from BEMF.

    You tune it by the following procedure specified, in the compilations.
    The higher the frequency the lower the capacitance needed (RUN CAP).

    Ash

    Leave a comment:


  • theremart
    replied
    RE: Size of pot

    Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
    For Mart.

    24mm size pot as its for the signal, this should be fine

    Ok, but I need the wattage of the pot, ohms are given.

    Also can I move the pot while the motor is running? Do I use a scope to tune it ?

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    For Mart.

    24mm size pot as its for the signal, this should be fine

    Leave a comment:


  • revizal
    replied
    Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
    Hi Rev, sorry guys just got in. Mart i have the value of the Pot for you, here will post tonight.

    Rev, yes you can add a belt, it will have a slight LOSS as friction etc, but some already coupled an RV with a belt, you can even step it up (gear pulley etc) and get it to go faster, dont forget to TUNE Run cap in prime mover.

    Ash

    OK Ash. I will use a belt to drive my alternator first. And will go next with head to head coupling to see different effect of setup. I'm waiting for a 3 HP 3 PH 2850 RPM motor to set as the motor on this experiment. My last motor 2 HP 3 PH (lower RPM) will choose as the alternator. May be tomorrow will be come to me.

    Thank you for your very usefull information here.

    Rev.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashtweth
    replied
    Hi Rev, sorry guys just got in. Mart i have the value of the Pot for you, here will post tonight.

    Rev, yes you can add a belt, it will have a slight LOSS as friction etc, but some already coupled an RV with a belt, you can even step it up (gear pulley etc) and get it to go faster, dont forget to TUNE Run cap in prime mover.

    Ash

    Leave a comment:


  • revizal
    replied
    Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
    Hi Rev, i just found soe good advice on the EVGRAY yahoo group for first timers from Dan.

    -------------------------


    Once you have your first motor running (as prime mover) in RV mode, start
    putting your 2nd motor (called Alt or alternator). Connect the shafts
    face-to-face
    . Wire that motor for 400V, so in delta (reason is no to
    generate too high voltages - stay safe). Gradually add run caps on the Alt
    across 2 of the 3 phases, until it starts to 'generate'. You will notice
    that - different sound - current flowing (put amp or clamp meter & measure
    voltage). Add caps until you get high circulating current running. Whilst
    you do that you will need to adjust the run caps on the primary mover. Do
    this carefully and slowly. Learn as you go and understand the thing - don't
    go too fast as these are dangerous toys. (Hector would say : zziippppp
    ripppppp);


    -Dan

    Hi Ash,

    I almost complete my project on RV motor. Just ordered a motors mounting which could able to adjust 2nd motor position on it. I've tried adapt to run the other motor (my last small water pump motor) with a belt. It seems enough to hold 2 motors.

    How about if I connect next motor with a belting. Could I still get a resonant alternator on it ?
    Or it must run face-to-face setup only ?

    Rev.
    Last edited by revizal; 01-10-2009, 08:58 AM.

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  • revizal
    replied
    Thank you very much Ash. It was a great info for my project.

    Rev.

    Leave a comment:

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