Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

hey Imhotep!

Could you tell me how many amps are going throw the neon bulb? I would like to calculate the resistor well and if I don't have the amps that are going throw I think that I can be wrong at my calculus. The maximum peaks you experience are 100V between the terminals of the neon bulb?
Thanks much! The next week (because now I'm in exams) I'll put all toghether and I'll post my results! Thanks much!

interesting question
NEON NE2 120V 0.0003A USA bulb specifications:
thats what a neon type ne2 uses ,it depends what type you are using for your calculation .
i checked radio shack specs ,no detail on site.
i do not recommend the radio shack 12 volt they are ok for car 12 volt systems
at 150 k for neon ne2 possibly 1.5 meg would work on 12 volt , this would limit the current, i do not recomment using the 12 volts. again i would need to know type of neon used to be accurate.
but the spikes vary on these fans .
i have ran the ne2 neon with no resistor. Again as i have stated you dont need the neon if you cant get it right now. just turn it off before you take the battery off and hook the battery up first before you turn it on, you should be ok. happy experimenting.

theremart on page 2 of this thread has a great recommendation for ordering neons .
you can order online at radio shack if local one has no stock of 110v


but the current draw on ne2 is very low micro amps on this fan

[**~Imhotep~**]

!!safety!! #1

they have started a safety thread on hho . most excellent idea .
experimenters need to remember safety precautions ,i will be reading the cautions before i experiment will hho. which i plan to do shortly.
PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS WITH THESE FANS ALSO, they put off spikes close to 100 volts be safe.

1) be careful hooking up to capacitors monitor and discharge when volts go beyond rated voltage of capacitors.
.
2)be careful hooking up batteries and monitor voltages do not go beyond rated volts

3)be careful of semiconductor loads (i have sacrificed leds, mp3 players etc..)
when testing the abilities of this fan.

this is not to discourage experimenting, but experienced or not please read all imhotep threads and this one from beginning to end, i have put alot of time in it for ease of building and safety ,its worth it to me to help you be safe while learning or expanding your base knowledge.

i have completed solving other inventors puzzles, but before i release info i will be consulting with other senior members because of the extremely high voltages (i have worked with 30,000 +volts dc pulses for years and have never been hurt, because of safety and caution and respect for energy you can not see sometimes except with test equipment.)

so please be careful ,these fans are safe if you take your time and use test equipment and caution .

together we will solve our energy concerns safely yay

[**~Imhotep~**]

this is the complete edited schematic new video is coming soon

new info on movie within 24-36 hours have been sleeping for 2 days


edit : i made a mistake in the schematics i uploaded. This is the correct one

[gotoluc]

@**~Imhotep~**

Is this the correct side for each coils function?

[**~Imhotep~**]

it actually depends on the architecture and the geometry of the fan you have. They all are a little different. Mainly the trigger coil, from time to time i had to swap the wires. if you look at the coils, when you take it apart, it wont take you long to figure out which wires are the end of wrap. (which means 2 out of the 4 wires can gently be unwound) those are considered the positive. 2 of the wires will be at the beginning of wrap, they are buried (don't pull too hard or you will have to rewind the coils) if you put them on a magnifier you can usually see the ones that are towards the center of the stator. Those two are the negatives for the trigger and power. The two that are easily unwound are the positives of the trigger and power you can use a ohm meter to see which ones are hooked together. And it really doesn't matter which ones you use for power or trigger i found it will work either way. The way that the schematic is, is for one fan that i had. And is correct for that fan, your fan might be different but as long as you correctly determine which is in the end of wrap and which one is beginning of wrap and hook those up to the negative and positive sides in the schematic of the bedini circuit your good to go.
Happy experimenting.


ps : i didnt realize till i was responding to your question i had uploaded the wrong schematic, thank you very much for bringing it to my attention.

[**~Imhotep~**]

New videos being uploaded as we speak. I will post the direct link as soon as it is ready for viewing. This one is dedicated to John Bedini, Rick Friedrich, and Dr.Peter Lindemann. Special Thanx goes out to theremart for his help. Much more detail and new information.

[gotoluc]

Hi all,

I built this fan Bedini energizer and have noticed that the recommended 1K pot may not be enough. Have anyone else noticed this?

Here are my findings.

My batteries are:
feed battery is at 12.49 volts and is a deep cycle series 31, 115 Ahr. and my charge battery is at 11.06 volts and is a cheap A23 12v zinc carbon battery from the dollar store.

Test 1 with a 1K pot full (at 1K)
11.13v at charge battery
45ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,880 rpm fan speed

Test 2 with a 2.2K pot full (at 2.2K)
11.14v at charge battery
42ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,940 rpm fan speed

Test 3 with a 4.7K pot full (at 4.7K)
11.20v at charge battery
40ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,930 rpm fan speed

Test 4 with a 10K pot set at 5.2K
11.30v at charge battery
38ma draw from feed battery (does not go down in voltage, too large)
1,850 rpm fan speed

Please find below the scope shots of each test. Also notice the extra switching peaks as the pot gets over 4K which maybe the cause that the voltage to the charge battery goes up and the ma draw from the feed battery goes down.

I would like your feedback on this from those who have experience with this as to what is going on here. I know that the pot is to find the balance point but I was not expecting this much difference. Also, it is not the fact that it is a small zinc battery that I'm charging that is causing this since I have 2 identical deep cycle batteries and did test 4 (as above) with both identical batteries (one as feed and other as charge) and the only difference is the voltage does not go up which is to be expected from such a large battery, however the ma draw is the same and the rpm is just about the same at 1,800 rpm.

Thanks to all for sharing your good work.

Luc

Added: BTW, how do I paste my scope shots in this message? they are much larger than the below attached ones, I don't know why they have been reduced.

[theremart]

RE: Pot

Good testing...

Even better is to find the range that works best, then to put in a 25 ohm resistor with some fixed resistors that get you to that range.

the 25 Ohm resistor REALLY lets you fine tune to better values.

But.. Input voltages is a big factor on where the ranges are..

Great work with the scope there!

Mart

P.S.

I put my fan on a bedini with the 300V transistor ( wanted to test low range )
did not do much for me spun the fan but I was getting better charge with a direct hookup to the batter from my 5W panel than using the SSG.

Will have to look into the ranges you mention.

Mart

[gotoluc]

Hi again,

I just removed the blades on the rotor to see the difference. Setup is just as test 4 (but now no fan blades) and the RPM is now 3,100 rpm and the draw is now at 32ma

I can now turn the 10K pot up full and again drop the draw to 29ma, at 3,000 rpm and the voltage at the charge battery is 11.27 volts.

So I tried it with a 22K pot and have it set to 13.4K. It now draws 19ma at 1,525 rpm and the voltage at the charge battery is 11.78 volts but have a look at the new scope shot now!... mega pulses and on top of that I even had to reduce the scale on the scope from .4ms to 1ms so they could all fit in the window. I also added one at 4ms so you could see 2 banks.

I think it would be beneficial to remove the blades if you want to get into faster charging, unless I'm not understanding the energizer concept.

Anyway let me know what you think.

Luc

[gotoluc]

Me again,

sorry to keep posting but this is a good one also.

I now power on the energizer an it works without turning, it just squeals and still sends a charge to the battery but now the pulses are full (no breaks). I thought that it maybe doing something like the MRA, Joel McCLAIN & Norman WOOTAN Magnetic Resonance Amplifier: Joel McClain & Norman Wootan: Magnetic Resonance Amplifier ~ Collected Papers

Anyway, the voltage is much higher but so are the amps. If I adjust the 22K pot to get the highest voltage I can get it up to 12.50 volts on that same small battery and the draw is 47ma (see first scope shot), however if I turn my pot to full 22K (see second scope shot) the voltage goes to 12.4 volts and now only draws 22ma. So I'm now going to try a 47K pot and see how low I can get the amp draw. Well I have it down to about 13ma and the voltage at the battery is still at 12.2 and my pot is full at 47K (see third scope shot). I'm now going to try a second 47K pot in series and see how low I can go. Now you might be saying to yourself, this guy's on pot!... Nope, these are real tests.
Okay the lowest I can go is 9ma (before it stops working).The total resistance is around 64K ohms and the voltage to the charge battery is 11.98 volts (see forth scope shot).

I know that this is most lightly not going to charge a battery. I'm just seeing how far down I can go. Also, I have on delivery one of those USB battery load tester, so I'll have plenty of tests to do when it comes in next week.

It will take time to tune and find the real sweet spot.

Stay tuned for updates.

Luc

[elias]

i built the unit, but ...

I used the original windings, which the ohmmeter read around 70 ohms for each winding. I hooked it up, and started tuning it to a spot where the neon gets on.
In this position the fan squeals and it runs slower drawing around 50mA at 19volts. The charging battery hardly starts moving up. I had tested thin wires for Bedini machines before and the result was the same, the battery does not seem to go up when the windings have high impedance.

Maybe I did something wrong? Does yours behave the same way, I mean the current to the output battery is not more than 10mA, or so.

Elias

[gotoluc]

Hi Elias,

Thanks for posting your findings. I have now converted 3 fans and not one is giving me positive results like some claims that Bedini energizers can charge the battery faster then the feed battery will go down.
The first fan energizer that I made the coils are 87 ohms each. This is the one I posted the tests results above. But ever since I cut the blades off the fan revs so high that I can't keep the neon lit anymore. I went up to around 15K ohm on the pot and draw was down to 19ma but the revs past the neon lit point. However, if I put a bit of friction on the wheel (to slow it down) then the neon comes back on. So I don't think that removing all the blades is the best result if the ideal is to tune to have the neon the brightest. I added a small weight on the rotor to slow it down and now I can tune it to keep the neon on. With a 12.5 volt feed and the resistance at 7.4K ohm on the pot I draw 29ma and the neon is bright.
I actually don't have enough experience with energizers to know if this is the correct way to tune. Is it a combination of getting the smallest amount of rotor drag to use less current but enough to keeping the neon bright?

I don't know. If anyone knows I would like to know you experience.

Thanks

Luc

[mikkyo]

I made one of these things and cant get it started.
When I apply power the fan stutters and locks up.
No power it spins.
If I try and force start it nothing happens.
I tried swapping the emitter to coil with the opposite side and I get same behavior.
Any ideas?

I scavenged the fan from an old computer it is a brushless 5 inch model.
2N3055 transistor

I have some other smaller fans to try but I'd like to figure out what I did wrong.

[gotoluc]

Use an ohm meter to make sure you have 40 to 80 ohms on each set of coils and keep the 2 wires (that have conductivity) grouped together and connect as per attached diagram. If it is still not working just reverse the polarity of one set of coils and it should start. If it still fails, then you have a problem in your circuit.

All the best.

Luc

[elias]

Hi Elias,

Thanks for posting your findings. I have now converted 3 fans and not one is giving me positive results like some claims that Bedini energizers can charge the battery faster then the feed battery will go down.
The first fan energizer that I made the coils are 87 ohms each. This is the one I posted the tests results above. But ever since I cut the blades off the fan revs so high that I can't keep the neon lit anymore. I went up to around 15K ohm on the pot and draw was down to 19ma but the revs past the neon lit point. However, if I put a bit of friction on the wheel (to slow it down) then the neon comes back on. So I don't think that removing all the blades is the best result if the ideal is to tune to have the neon the brightest. I added a small weight on the rotor to slow it down and now I can tune it to keep the neon on. With a 12.5 volt feed and the resistance at 7.4K ohm on the pot I draw 29ma and the neon is bright.
I actually don't have enough experience with energizers to know if this is the correct way to tune. Is it a combination of getting the smallest amount of rotor drag to use less current but enough to keeping the neon bright?

I don't know. If anyone knows I would like to know you experience.

Thanks

Luc

Bedini's machines use low impedance coils for charging batteries, higher the impedance of the coils, the slower the output battery charges, I don't understand how Imhotep has been able to fast charge his batteries, with the high impedance coils of the fans.
Maybe he'll show up and explain a bit.

Elias