Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

Another strange issue whcih occured once for me was charging a dead battery (10.25V) to 14.50V in seconds exactly like it would be a cap not a battery.And it was real charge,not full charge , but that few seconds allo me to run 12V/55W bulb about 3 seconds almost fully bright.

if this was a lead acid batt i had one on the quick charge vid that did this after being conditioned for weeks on three fans.it still is not up to full capacity but is much better then when i started its conditioning (total sulfated ,now almost full capacity)time has improved this batt.

[Pcurrius]

picks

You need to go back and check your transistor, the procedure can be found a few pages back. Make sure that your transistor is good, then go over your diodes. It sounds like you have a bad transistor. If you know how to post pictures please post some pictures of your setup and your wiring so we can see how you have it hooked up. But check over your transistor first.

Hello,

Today I went to the store and I bought new transistor and two diodes (despite that I checked that all components when good). I have hooked up all the circuit many times...and the thing doesn't work (Also check interchanging the brown wires). So I upload the pictures with the explanation to see if you see my error. The blue wires for me are the positive coils and brown negative. Also I took red for the positive of the charge battery. White wire with a black permanent is the negative of my source. I think that's all. Greetings, Pau.

[Sephiroth]

Hi,

Looks like the circuit is correct. though not sure why there is a resistor in series with the neon. Does the fan react if you short the base with the collector?

Does the fan operate at all?

If the fan does react to you shorting the base and collector then try this:

I found on one of my fans that the sweet spots were very very narrow. try spinning the fan manually then slowly fidling with the pot until you hear a noise from the coils. It might not spin up while doing that, but it will help you find the window of operation so when you spin it again it may start up.

[boguslaw]

if this was a lead acid batt i had one on the quick charge vid that did this after being conditioned for weeks on three fans.it still is not up to full capacity but is much better then when i started its conditioning (total sulfated ,now almost full capacity)time has improved this batt.

no.it was dead battery removed from my UPS device, not charged previously

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hello,

Today I went to the store and I bought new transistor and two diodes (despite that I checked that all components when good). I have hooked up all the circuit many times...and the thing doesn't work (Also check interchanging the brown wires). So I upload the pictures with the explanation to see if you see my error. The blue wires for me are the positive coils and brown negative. Also I took red for the positive of the charge battery. White wire with a black permanent is the negative of my source. I think that's all. Greetings, Pau.

what i used in all my testing was a variable power supply to test and adjust units then moved to batteries,if you have tested and confirmed all parts are good and hooked up as in the schematic then you could try a variable power suppy and take it to over 12v ,some of my rewinds i had to run on 24 volts(i rewound the coils to try to get more punch on the desulfation process) a very easy build is this schematic just add any wall wart transfomer and 4 diodes and a cap 1000mf at 50 volt ,you can probably use the parts out of the wall wart ,make sure it is at least 18-24 v .750 ma output .here is the schematic
throw it in a radio shack box and you have a variable power supply to use for desulfating lead acid batteries (along with a couple of working fans paralleled outputs)

[Pcurrius]

Force and sound apear

Hi,

Looks like the circuit is correct. though not sure why there is a resistor in series with the neon. Does the fan react if you short the base with the collector?

Does the fan operate at all?

If the fan does react to you shorting the base and collector then try this:

I found on one of my fans that the sweet spots were very very narrow. try spinning the fan manually then slowly fidling with the pot until you hear a noise from the coils. It might not spin up while doing that, but it will help you find the window of operation so when you spin it again it may start up.

Hello,
The resistor is there because the neon bulb is 12 V, could the resistence influence with the working of the circuit?
I've wired another time the circuit with another fan (see picture atached). Now when I connect the source I see a high force and a sound in my coils but I tried to spinning up but doesn't. Then I did the same turning down the potenciometer then the force rise down. I changed one of the red wires to the other one to see what happens and there no forces aprear despite if I turn the potenciometer.
What I think now is that the problem is caused because the coils. What I have done with the coils is check that two of the post have continuity and take this two for example as positive (I think that no meaning if I take one or the other's as positive or negative) and the other one's as negative. Then I hooked up the other part of the circuit and that's all. I'm not able to distinguish if the coils are turning clockwise or counterclockwise because is strange wrapping and I'm not so experienced with the fans...so maybe this cause my error. I though that there are many possiblities of wrapping...
Now the red and black wires are the one's that go to the fan.
Sincerely I'm very disapointed I would apreciate any help.

[Pcurrius]

variable power supply

what i used in all my testing was a variable power supply to test and adjust units then moved to batteries,if you have tested and confirmed all parts are good and hooked up as in the schematic then you could try a variable power suppy and take it to over 12v ,some of my rewinds i had to run on 24 volts(i rewound the coils to try to get more punch on the desulfation process) a very easy build is this schematic just add any wall wart transfomer and 4 diodes and a cap 1000mf at 50 volt ,you can probably use the parts out of the wall wart ,make sure it is at least 18-24 v .750 ma output .here is the schematic
throw it in a radio shack box and you have a variable power supply to use for desulfating lead acid batteries (along with a couple of working fans paralleled outputs)

I use a power supply of 12 V but not variable, I will do what you recommend me when I'll come back school (only if I wouldn't get by then). There I have free variable power supplies. Despite of this I have many fans to try yet.
Thanks for your information. Cheers.

[mikkyo]

So far none of the fans I have tried have worked.
The impedance (DC Resistance if you prefer) have been
5.2, 6.1, and 7.2 ohms.
I'm using a 12V supply, maybe that is the issue.
I may try winding my own, but I would prefer not to.

[**~Imhotep~**]

So far none of the fans I have tried have worked.
The impedance (DC Resistance if you prefer) have been
5.2, 6.1, and 7.2 ohms.
I'm using a 12V supply, maybe that is the issue.
I may try winding my own, but I would prefer not to.

post pictures if you can so i can see your coils and wiring and we will get you going ,the ohms seem low but all these fans are different

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hello,
The resistor is there because the neon bulb is 12 V, could the resistence influence with the working of the circuit?
I've wired another time the circuit with another fan (see picture atached). Now when I connect the source I see a high force and a sound in my coils but I tried to spinning up but doesn't. Then I did the same turning down the potenciometer then the force rise down. I changed one of the red wires to the other one to see what happens and there no forces aprear despite if I turn the potenciometer.
What I think now is that the problem is caused because the coils. What I have done with the coils is check that two of the post have continuity and take this two for example as positive (I think that no meaning if I take one or the other's as positive or negative) and the other one's as negative. Then I hooked up the other part of the circuit and that's all. I'm not able to distinguish if the coils are turning clockwise or counterclockwise because is strange wrapping and I'm not so experienced with the fans...so maybe this cause my error. I though that there are many possiblities of wrapping...
Now the red and black wires are the one's that go to the fan.
Sincerely I'm very disapointed I would apreciate any help.

make sure there is continuity on one set of coils and continuity on the other set of coils ,one set is your trigger coils and the other set is power coils, 2 sets of coils 4 wires total hook one set to collector of transistor and one to positive source battery the other set goes to one side of the potentiometer and ground (unless coils are damaged you should be good to go) if you went back further in post and checked all components are good you should be able to spin it up. also study the schematic further back in post carefully go slow and do not get discouraged you will succeed.

[theremart]

make sure there is continuity on one set of coils and continuity on the other set of coils ,one set is your trigger coils and the other set is power coils, 2 sets of coils 4 wires total hook one set to collector of transistor and one to positive source battery the other set goes to one side of the potentiometer and ground (unless coils are damaged you should be good to go) if you went back further in post and checked all components are good you should be able to spin it up. also study the schematic further back in post carefully go slow and do not get discouraged you will succeed.

You might want to get / make yourself a small bifilar coil to simply test if your circuit is ok or not. Often when I not sure where the problem is, I will simply swap out the coils / or the curcuit till I find the problem area.

Hang in there!

[mikkyo]

The fan coils are all the same layout (7 different fans).
The coils opposite each other are connected on each side.
So if this is your layout
1 2
3 4
1 and 4 are connected, 2 and 3 are connected.
Perhaps that is the problem, however all fans I have checked are wired this way.
Are the coils adjacent to each other supposed to be connected?
That would certainly explain it.
I would love to see a written parts list of what parts are known to work, written instructions for assembly, and a diagram of how the coils are supposed to be wound and interconnected.
Something like what santhony posted (only I'm pretty sure they aren't all supposed to be connected as in his diagram).

[mikkyo]

I have it working now.
Since my coils are connected
12
34
1 and 4, 2 and 3, I put 2(+) on the + supply and 3(-) on the collector, 1(-)on the pot-base, and 4(+) on the emitter.
It all comes down to coil layout, which is why a set of detailed diagrams for each possible fan coil config folks have come across would be very useful.

I used 12V 700ma supply, NTE125 diodes, 2N3055 transistor, 10Kohm wire-wound linear taper 10-turn pot, and a Delta AFB1212HE fan.

I edited Imhotep's stator to show how mine looks, and where the wires run.

[mikkyo]

I'm ready to try some recharging now.
Are people hooking batteries up directly regardless of voltage?
That would seem rather dangerous.
What is the preferred way to monitor the charging status to avoid overcharging/overheating and blowing up a battery?

[ray0energy]

overcharging/overheating and blowing up a battery?

I'm ready to try some recharging now.
Are people hooking batteries up directly regardless of voltage?
That would seem rather dangerous.
What is the preferred way to monitor the charging status to avoid overcharging/overheating and blowing up a battery?

well it never happen to my (over charging)
but to be short u ar charging wit potential not wit Amps!
so it will not blow up.

i have don lots of experiments wit this type of pulse motor's
(Adams,Bedini,Newman) i use cap's a lot and i have never!!!
blow one up. it is strange to see a 10.000 uf 80v go to 90/100
or even more

its the same thing wit battery's i hook up litiuminion cellfoon batt's
and te stay cool al the the time

so good luck

as long there ar no hi Amp's involved u can do a lot of save experiments (it works or in don't works is my rule )