Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

Like... Wow!

~Imhotep~ you're a *STAR*

What an amazingly simple device to generate High Voltage Spikes... By Jove, this is going to be a terrific ride ~
Fantastic, well done!

and Lidmotor your presentation of ~Imhoteps~ Radiany Relay Oscillator is brilliant.

Thank you both for encouraging everyone to see more

DaveM


You should be able to run it easily on a 9v PP3. Something not right there.

I played with the trigger resistors again with a capacitor “dead ended” (no charge battery) on the output and found that with a .22mf (old automotive condenser) I could achieve 75v @ 1k, 103v @ 2k, 125v @ 3k and 127, @ 4.7k. I also had a 47mf 220v and a 330mf 250v and found that they would both charge up to 108v with a 4.7k trigger resistor.

Why use the condenser? Try it with capacitor only, but be sure it is rated at around 250 volts. Rather than changing all those resistors, why not get a 1K potentiometer? You can tune the motor much easier that way.

It would be nice to have someone chime in here and let me know if I am in the ballpark on efficiency with this system and let me know if there are other variables that I should be playing with in this part of the circuit.

Like you, I am experimenting mainly with Alkaline batteries etc., but realise that they cannot use/convert the Radiant Energy as lead-acid batteries will.

I want to follow the alkaline 9v test through to some conclusion before I move on to lead acid.

Good for you!

I’ll find out pretty soon but does anyone know if this little guy will move a 200 amp hour 12v in any kind of reasonable time?

Whoaaaaa.... big fella, take it easy!

DaveM, you have a small motor/energizer that draws mA of current. Do you really think it could " move a 200 amp hour 12v in any kind of reasonable time?".

Why not try a small 12v car, or better still a motorcycle battery first and see what results you can get with that first? Ideally you need to 'cycle' a lead-acid battery around twenty times before it has attuned itself to the Radiant Energy. That, according to John Bedini, is when you should really see some definate improvements. eg - Higher capacity, Deeper discharge rates, Faster recovery times.

To cycle a lead-acid battery, means to charge the battery with Radiant Energy and then discharge the battery at its 20 hour rate. Now how long do you think it would really take to cycle your 200 amp hour battery, 20 times? I would guess weeks, or even months?

Personally, I would recommend you take it easy and enjoy yourself. You have created your very first Bedini/Imhotep Energizer and that is an achievement which very few people ON THIS PLANET have done. ~ CONGRATULATIONS ~





Carry on experimenting as you are doing and read as much as you can about these Energizers. They are amazing devices and thankfully, through the efforts and courage of people like John Bedini, Imhotep and others, we are now able to reproduce their discoveries and be part of an ever growing community, dedicated to helping others do the same.

Thanks again to everyone. Particularly John Bedini and Imhotep.

and I will graciously second that!
By Jove!

i have had good success with alkaline batteries from button cells on to 6 volt lantern batteries , i have been using the same 6 volt batteries for 6 months now and they still take a charge. i have also tried the button cells lately and found you can only charge them for 60 seconds before they burst the seals ,so be carefull watch all batteries carefully for heat build up or leakage.

lead acid batteries get conditioned with the radiant which is different then the alkaline s, after you condition lead acid i charge them with trickle chargers which works great. and they hold their charge longer and longer as time goes on.
keep experimenting and share your results

[teslamaniak]

HI all , it's my first post here. First I'd like to apologize for my chineese english, i'll try my best. Imhotep i'd like to thank you for the time you've put on the video tutorial. However ,there's few things that I still can't understand. About the coils of stator what makes the difference between a positive one and a negative ? How can I spot the pos and neg ?
thank you very much for your help.

[Bodkins]

Hi teslamaniak

Someone will be around to help you soon Im not very good with the fan stuff.
I Got a fan with a normal one stator coil on it 24volt no rewiring.
The big wire was the power one, the little wire trigger one.
i connect the big one to the battery then transitor and swap the trigger around till it worked.
I now this may not be what you asking but this is what i did.
Good Luck

ps nice picture

[teslamaniak]

Hi Bodkins, it seems that we don't got the same fan but i appreciate your contribution. Thanks for your help. Never give up, this is the key, the most important is to believe in what we're doing the rest is just a matter of time.

[DaveM]

9 volt alkaline review

I’ve run this through a few times so I think it’s pretty good information.

Most of the testing was done without the neon light and with a 12v bench power supply.

Anyone looking to build one of these systems I would suggest one change from the original plan. I am going to go to a 500 ohm fixed resister with a 0-5000 ohm pot to allow full adjustment of RPM/rate of charge/rate of power consumption. I found the limits to be at about 1k and 5k for maximum and minimum RPM. I’m sure this varies with the specific motor but that’s what I needed.

Running the system with the 12.1v power supply I found the system most efficient at low RPM, about 1040, This was achieved with 4.7k ohms total in the trigger circuit. The system was consuming 21mA, with 5.5mA measurable out put. I had a couple of capacitors that I tried across the output and found that they would charge up to 127v. A 1mf 50v charged very quickly and the 47mf 250v took a few minutes. I did not quantify it but the rate of battery charge seemed faster with the battery and the capacitor across the output so I left the cap in the circuit. With this setup I could get the battery voltage to go up about .01 volt per minute. I ran one up over 10 volts and it was still climbing.

With the original setup (1k-2k trigger resistance) I was running higher RPM, higher power consumption and lower power output. The rate of charge was only .01v per 20 min. I don’t know the limit but it was still going up at 9.02 and later I tried to move up from 9.42 and it would not move, so somewhere in between would be as far as you could go. A capacitor across the output would charge to 80v.

I played around with the neon light as a tuning tool and found that it will only light without a charge battery. It did seem to flicker the most at 1065 RPM and I could measure 26v across it. With the neon and a capacitor the neon would light bright and solid when the voltage climbed to 90v. As soon as the light went on voltage dropped to 72 and stayed there. This must indicate the consumption of the light, which is speced at .3watts. So if you only have the neon light you can tune with it only across the output and go for the strongest, most consistent flicker. I would guess about 40% flickerage was the best I could get.

Then I went back to battery to battery operation. I measured voltage from the negative side of the source battery to the positive side of the charge battery to determine the overall rate of loss. (Thanks for the idea Ren.)
Again I found that the high RPM (1380 with 1k ohm trigger) was least efficient. Dropping overall voltage at a rate of .01v every 20 seconds. Charge battery voltage did not increase.
Low RPM (775 with 4760 ohms) was better with the overall voltage dropping at a rate of .01 per minute. I charged a battery from 9.37 to 9.42. Don’t know how far it would go. The first time I tried this I had one battery new at 9.54v and the other started at 5.5v, they both got to about 7 and it stopped.

I also played with load testing a bit and found that after taking 7.2mA hrs out I could get back to the original voltage after putting 5.0 mA in. However it only took 5.7 mA hrs out to drop it to the voltage that it went to after loosing 7.2 the first time. This still might seem OK but I’m talking system output, which is about 1/4th of the system input. So, I guess that’s about 25% efficiency for charging 9v batteries. I guess that’s still OK, considering that they are not rechargeable.

Well I think I beat the 9v thing to death. 12v lead acid here I come.

[byjoveoldchap]

HI all , it's my first post here.
Imhotep i'd like to thank you for the time you've put on the video tutorial.
thank you very much for your help.

teslamaniak

I like your photo, you remind me of someone...

what makes the difference between a positive one and a negative ? How can I spot the pos and neg ?

I had similar problems and was worried that I might connect them wrongly, so I can understand your concern.
~~~

Don't worry trying to find out where the N and S poles are,
it's NOT important and also very difficult to explain clearly without diagrams.
~~~~~~~

As Imhotep said, you need to have 4 wires connected to the coils in the motor as shown on his video.

Use a meter and find out which wires make the two circuits

• one pair will be the 'trigger' coils

• the other pair will be the 'power coils'

mark them or tape them in pairs

~~~

EXAMPLE: mark one pair T1 and T2 and the other pair P1 and P2

it does NOT matter which pair you use for trigger or power, as the COILS should be identical
~~~

connect the two pairs of wires to your circuit

do NOT worry which is pos/neg or N or S poles

~~~

Now, if the motor does NOT work swap either T1 and T2 OR P1 and P2

DO NOT SWAP BOTH SETS!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The motor will NOT self start, you need to spin the motor so that the trigger coils generate a small voltage to switch the Transistor ON and that will send current to the Power coils and the motor will continue running.

I hope this helps?
By Jove!

[byjoveoldchap]

Running the system with the 12.1v power supply I found the system most efficient at low RPM

Thanks DaveM

I totally agree, low revs gets the best results for me too!

[teslamaniak]

Hi jove,

thank you very much for your help. Those explanations will help me for sure as I understand much better how the cricuit works. I'll keep you informed about my replica.

[teslamaniak]

Well, i'm not very lucky... All I've got is a stabilisation movement from the fan. I feel the current flowing in it but I think there's a mistake with the coils winding. On the stator, there's one of the three posts wich got 2 wires. all I did is to remove one of those two wires and resold it on the 4th post wich I added manually. Did I miss something ? Is there something else to do ?

Thank you very much for your help.

[slayer007]

Switch your wires around.
Try eather one but only switch one set at a time.
Then try it to see if it works.
If it dont put the wires back as they were and switch the other set.

[teslamaniak]

Same result...

[slayer007]

Did you try to check the continuity with a meter to make sure you didn't get the coils mixed?

[teslamaniak]

I don't have a meter at home to check the continuity I have to buy a new one. Thank you for your help.

[wantfreeenergy]

you could always use trial and error.

keep one wire for the positive. now if it aint workin then swap the two wires on the emitter/base. if that doesn't work then take one of those two wires and swap it with the wire on the collector. now if there is still no function, then again swap the emitter/base wires.

and if it still don't work then "did you manually try to give the fan a spin to kick start it?", and if so then....... I say check your transistor to make sure it aint fried.

[mrbreau]

Did you read the instructions?

Well, i'm not very lucky... All I've got is a stabilisation movement from the fan. I feel the current flowing in it but I think there's a mistake with the coils winding. On the stator, there's one of the three posts wich got 2 wires. all I did is to remove one of those two wires and resold it on the 4th post wich I added manually. Did I miss something ? Is there something else to do ?

Thank you very much for your help.

I did...........a number of times.

When you separate the two wires they must be checked to see which coil/post which wire goes to. The posts/coils need to be next to each other. (You can use a battery and a light to find out which is which.)

*Due Dilligence* will take a LOT of guesswork out of the project. Also consider the five Ps.

Warren
..

"And the meek shall inherit the earth." Where does it say the *meek* are people???