Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[elcman]

First round of testing.

I'm very very excited about this.

But I really have no idea what I'm doing. I am a computer science guy, I put together computers... a lot, but I have no background in electronics--though I'm meaning to start.

I put together a haphazard "Imhotep" Bendini fan. Since I work at a company that's throwing away TONS of computers at the moment, there is no lack. I even got a soldering station and some various tools from the old workshops... Even sporting for a chance at a oscilloscope, but we'll see if I can squeeze that out of them.

My current setup is using a 14.4v drill battery as the source. I was going to try and convert one of the ATX Computer power supplies I have to be a "research station" ... but I just wanted to get this going as quickly as possible.

Anyway... I have a few questions after my first implementation.

• I have two sealed lead acid batteries from UPS stations. These batteries... are dead as can be. I tested the ohms and I get nothing. (Or ... uh, not 0 ohms.) I ran them on the charger for a bit, but the neon light continued to glow. Is there any chance at making these things work? If the current isn't "catching" on anything, I'm thinking it probably won't charge. Or... is there a potential to resurrect them if I leave them on there long enough?
  
• What and where do I measure to get readings to determine how efficient this thing is being? I adjusted the potentiometer until the neon glowed fairly brightly, the thing makes a screechy sound when I do, but when hooking up a battery that takes a charge, it quiets down. I want to know where to attach a multimeter to get the information I'm looking for. It'll help me show it off at work.
  
• In my reading here, I've been hearing people say that they don't know what's charging the battery? I'm curious what that means. I can get readings off of the hookups that go to the battery (and shocked myself more than a few times)... so I'm not sure what people are talking about.
  
• If I were to get a bank of conditioned ("aligned") batteries for a "larger" Bendini SSG like this, how would I hook them together so that the entire bank could charge over time?
  
• Is the original concept of this device meant to give enough back charge to the source battery to maintain a certain level of power? (In concept, it may get low but would never need charging because of it?) Would this idea also suggest that the source battery is also going through a state of conditioning as well?

I'm also curious about the ... more mystical aspects of this. There are many sources of energy and ... well, since this seems to be the forum to bring this up in, would "Radiant energy" be linked to something like "Chi", personal power, mysticism or somesuch? ... Don't get me wrong, but if the properties of Radiant energy can't be directly measured, it makes sense that a "sensitive" might be able to recognize it. I've got friends who are well practiced in this ... so I'm going to introduce it to them to see what they think as well as get my Electronics Engineer brother involved and see what he thinks about the whole thing.

Anyway, any information would help. I'm just a newb pandering with the inventive crowd.

~~
elcman

[**~Imhotep~**]

I'm very very excited about this.

But I really have no idea what I'm doing. I am a computer science guy, I put together computers... a lot, but I have no background in electronics--though I'm meaning to start.

I put together a haphazard "Imhotep" Bendini fan. Since I work at a company that's throwing away TONS of computers at the moment, there is no lack. I even got a soldering station and some various tools from the old workshops... Even sporting for a chance at a oscilloscope, but we'll see if I can squeeze that out of them.

My current setup is using a 14.4v drill battery as the source. I was going to try and convert one of the ATX Computer power supplies I have to be a "research station" ... but I just wanted to get this going as quickly as possible.

Anyway... I have a few questions after my first implementation.

• I have two sealed lead acid batteries from UPS stations. These batteries... are dead as can be. I tested the ohms and I get nothing. (Or ... uh, not 0 ohms.) I ran them on the charger for a bit, but the neon light continued to glow. Is there any chance at making these things work? If the current isn't "catching" on anything, I'm thinking it probably won't charge. Or... is there a potential to resurrect them if I leave them on there long enough?
  
• What and where do I measure to get readings to determine how efficient this thing is being? I adjusted the potentiometer until the neon glowed fairly brightly, the thing makes a screechy sound when I do, but when hooking up a battery that takes a charge, it quiets down. I want to know where to attach a multimeter to get the information I'm looking for. It'll help me show it off at work.
  
• In my reading here, I've been hearing people say that they don't know what's charging the battery? I'm curious what that means. I can get readings off of the hookups that go to the battery (and shocked myself more than a few times)... so I'm not sure what people are talking about.
  
• If I were to get a bank of conditioned ("aligned") batteries for a "larger" Bendini SSG like this, how would I hook them together so that the entire bank could charge over time?
  
• Is the original concept of this device meant to give enough back charge to the source battery to maintain a certain level of power? (In concept, it may get low but would never need charging because of it?) Would this idea also suggest that the source battery is also going through a state of conditioning as well?

I'm also curious about the ... more mystical aspects of this. There are many sources of energy and ... well, since this seems to be the forum to bring this up in, would "Radiant energy" be linked to something like "Chi", personal power, mysticism or somesuch? ... Don't get me wrong, but if the properties of Radiant energy can't be directly measured, it makes sense that a "sensitive" might be able to recognize it. I've got friends who are well practiced in this ... so I'm going to introduce it to them to see what they think as well as get my Electronics Engineer brother involved and see what he thinks about the whole thing.

Anyway, any information would help. I'm just a newb pandering with the inventive crowd.

~~
elcman

The first thing you need to make sure of is that your circuit is correct and that when you try attaching another battery the neon goes out. If it does go out then there is a possibility that the battery that you first tried does has inside physical damage more than just sulfation. In that case, there really is no way to repair it without getting inside the battery, which to my knowledge is impossible.

Ok hooking up a meter, to measure current you want to place it on the source battery, if you use the meter on 10 amp current measurement, you put it in series with the ground. In otherwords, you remove the ground wire and hook it through the meter.
To measure voltage you put it across the source battery.
To measure the output voltage you put it across the output battery, on the example of a 9volt battery, you would let it charge to possibly 10 volts. Ive done that with so far no ill effects.

What people are talking about, they dont understand what is charging the battery but it appears that coil collapse inside the motor is being utilized which is the opposite polarity sometimes 100x as strong as the input voltage being put into it. and its just that collapse voltage is being utilized which usually inhibits and makes the motor cost more to run, instead of it being wasted or inhibiting the motor from operating its being funneled off and reused. so the current draw of running the unit is being dropped and thrown back into another battery to be utilized later. YAY!

Im not really sure about the larger bendini but i would post that question in the bendini thread, there are alot of people who are very skilled that can answer that question.

Thats the ultimate goal of the bendini process, at this time, with this unit we are evaluating the charge process, people have been successful in swapping the charging source battery after they have been conditioned some are working on a switching process now. But that is our goal, that way all you need to worry about is the batteries you want charged and the fan keeps going, and going, and going, lol
share your data and dont be afraid of experimenting.

[**~Imhotep~**]

I'm very very excited about this.

But I really have no idea what I'm doing. I am a computer science guy, I put together computers... a lot, but I have no background in electronics--though I'm meaning to start.

I put together a haphazard "Imhotep" Bendini fan. Since I work at a company that's throwing away TONS of computers at the moment, there is no lack. I even got a soldering station and some various tools from the old workshops... Even sporting for a chance at a oscilloscope, but we'll see if I can squeeze that out of them.

My current setup is using a 14.4v drill battery as the source. I was going to try and convert one of the ATX Computer power supplies I have to be a "research station" ... but I just wanted to get this going as quickly as possible.

Anyway... I have a few questions after my first implementation.

• I have two sealed lead acid batteries from UPS stations. These batteries... are dead as can be. I tested the ohms and I get nothing. (Or ... uh, not 0 ohms.) I ran them on the charger for a bit, but the neon light continued to glow. Is there any chance at making these things work? If the current isn't "catching" on anything, I'm thinking it probably won't charge. Or... is there a potential to resurrect them if I leave them on there long enough?
  
• What and where do I measure to get readings to determine how efficient this thing is being? I adjusted the potentiometer until the neon glowed fairly brightly, the thing makes a screechy sound when I do, but when hooking up a battery that takes a charge, it quiets down. I want to know where to attach a multimeter to get the information I'm looking for. It'll help me show it off at work.
  
• In my reading here, I've been hearing people say that they don't know what's charging the battery? I'm curious what that means. I can get readings off of the hookups that go to the battery (and shocked myself more than a few times)... so I'm not sure what people are talking about.
  
• If I were to get a bank of conditioned ("aligned") batteries for a "larger" Bendini SSG like this, how would I hook them together so that the entire bank could charge over time?
  
• Is the original concept of this device meant to give enough back charge to the source battery to maintain a certain level of power? (In concept, it may get low but would never need charging because of it?) Would this idea also suggest that the source battery is also going through a state of conditioning as well?

I'm also curious about the ... more mystical aspects of this. There are many sources of energy and ... well, since this seems to be the forum to bring this up in, would "Radiant energy" be linked to something like "Chi", personal power, mysticism or somesuch? ... Don't get me wrong, but if the properties of Radiant energy can't be directly measured, it makes sense that a "sensitive" might be able to recognize it. I've got friends who are well practiced in this ... so I'm going to introduce it to them to see what they think as well as get my Electronics Engineer brother involved and see what he thinks about the whole thing.

Anyway, any information would help. I'm just a newb pandering with the inventive crowd.

~~
elcman

The cap pulser is John Bedinis Capacitive discharge circuit for the monopole motor. There are various schematics, but I am hesistant to post due to copyright infringements. You can see one here

Bedini_Monopole : John Bedini's Monopole

I have a flash capacitor from a disposable camera, 150k instead of 51k on the 555 and a different transistor on the front and back. Theres also a fixed voltage regulator to automatically step down the voltage for the 555 if its higher than 18 volts and an extra cap in there. It lights up a 12 volt 300ma globe constantly without pulsing, only when the load gets larger does it pulse. Charges batteries on the back end quite quickly, and they are more suited for swapping to the front end too when charged this way. The 10 watt globe is just there to show how the back end is pulsed into the battery.

High voltage is the way to go Imhotep, the standard sg circuit if built with mlj21194's should be able to handle well in excess of 100 volts input if you have nice thick connections. Have a look at the 24 volt battery swapper thread just below this one, I get heaps more speed out of that when voltage is doubled. That trifilar coil will light up the 10 watt globe on the back end with 12 volt input, unlike the fan.

really dont need schematic, this is all becoming so easy. lol
Thank you for the details, the video is amazing!! we will be simultaneously working on this process also yay! i should have more information and a video up sometime next week.

[elcman]

I've found and hooked up a new (old) battery to the charging station. I've popped the fuse on my multimeter. (Due to turning it past Ohms while it was connected to a live battery.)

From what I can tell, though, the battery is completely dead, which I tested by initially making it the source battery. This thing has been sitting unused in a UPS since 2003. It seems like it might be picking up a charge, though. I still see the neon bulb, but it gets very dim when I connect the battery to the charging end.

Is this because the battery isn't accepting the full charge or is it because I have a 14.4v battery hooked up to what I believe is a 12v Lead Acid battery? (No markings indicate what it is besides the "Lead" reference.)

I really can't wait to make a workshop in my garage for stuff like this.

[theremart]

Notes about dead batteries.

1. Be prepared to wait a LONG LONG Time.
2. Be praprared to wait months.
3. ... you get the idea.

Sometimes dead batteries are not worth the effort. If they have been cooked to death by heat, or they have lost the water inside. ( Maitence free batteries do loose water. Best to add only add distilled water back to them.

I find it is best to find multiple sources for your batteries and work on the ones that show promise.

Another safety note. charging batteries with very little water in them is very dangerous. Also before you let your circuit run for hours check all of the parts to make sure nothing is getting hot. Ashes for a home or a garage is a hard thing to live in.

I also am a computer IT person, I don't have the supply you do but, the one fan i have going is giving me alot of fun.

Today i put 18V to the fan and it got over 8,000 RPM Zoom +

Mart

[**~Imhotep~**]

8000 rpms wow zoom ,you are absolutely right about batteries losing water ,
the quick charge video battery had to have distiled water added to it.
i saw info that said the only reconditioning you can try (i have not tried this my self) for a badly sulfated battery except for my recent bendini experience which has worked for me ,is to empty content of battery carefully (acid water CAuTION!!) and replace with distilled water only. i like bendini way myself.
thought id share

[ren]

I've found and hooked up a new (old) battery to the charging station. I've popped the fuse on my multimeter. (Due to turning it past Ohms while it was connected to a live battery.)

From what I can tell, though, the battery is completely dead, which I tested by initially making it the source battery. This thing has been sitting unused in a UPS since 2003. It seems like it might be picking up a charge, though. I still see the neon bulb, but it gets very dim when I connect the battery to the charging end.

Is this because the battery isn't accepting the full charge or is it because I have a 14.4v battery hooked up to what I believe is a 12v Lead Acid battery? (No markings indicate what it is besides the "Lead" reference.)

I really can't wait to make a workshop in my garage for stuff like this.

Hi Elcman,

What is your multimeter fuse rated at? I have done that before with a 500ma fuse which popped when I increased current draw past that. You need to keep track of amperage on the front end, and dont turn your potentiometer too fast. Also have a small resistor coming off your pot if you dont already, this way if you turn resistance right down it still has some there as a buffer. Very important if you dont want to go blowing pots and transistors.

I have been conditioning a 20 amp hour battery slowly over the last few weeks. When I first got it I couldnt put it on the larger machine I have. I couldnt even run it on my smallest machine at full amp draw without the neons glowing. In the end I was able to charge it with 25ma input, just enough to keep the wheel turning. After a few cycles it has dramatically improved and it is holding charge more each cycle. Like Mart said, some batteries arent worth it. You could even start off really gently and run a lower voltage on the front, say 9 volts charging the 12 volt damaged battery. Push too much current and the neons will just light up.

One of the reasons people say "what is charging the battery?" is because conventional meters show such a huge difference in amps in vs amps out. For example I have done a test which shows 1 amp input vs 100ma output, yet the charge battery is charging at the same pace of the run battery depletion. So it cant be all current that is charging the battery can it...

[InTheField]

Sorry I haven't posted too much...

Sometimes "work" and "life" have to be top priority...

Anyway, I ran the original ~Imhotep~ Bedini case fan setup (80mm fan) for a week and disconnected it today. The source battery went from ~12.88V down to ~11.48V over the course of a week. The charge battery was D-E-A-D at best showing less than 2V, but with any load at all went to 0V, 0A immediately. After a week, it is reading a constant 3.69V and seems to hold that "ok" with a load (after about 15-20 seconds, it ticks down a notch...)

As mentioned before, I got a bunch of these really nice ball-bearing 120mm case fans that were being tossed. The first one, I basically mangled, but learned how to get them apart from the experience. I did the modifications on one of these and it is now cranking away. It goes much faster and really glows the neon brightly when not connected to a charge battery. I used the pot to get the brightest glow. I've noticed that slows down the fan speed, but that's the point where things start to "hum" sweetly. I've got these two running in parallel off of the same source battery (a fresh 12V 7aH battery that started out reading ~12.68V) and I'm using them both to charge the original source battery (that had dropped to ~11.48, but in the past 30-45 minutes is back up to ~11.75V)... I'm going to let this charge that battery back up at least to ~12.88V again.

In the meantime, I want to build a battery swapper. I picked up most of the parts (that I didn't already have) and when I get time (hopefully soon), I'll build it. If/When it's working, I'll let everyone know... and share of course.

Take care,

ITF

[InTheField]

On dead batteries...

I know it's a relatively short amount of time (one week), but I've already come to the conclusion that I'm only going to deal with trying to resurrect a really old and dead battery if I don't have anything else to put on one of the SSGs. I have many other experiments and things that I want to do/try and spending the LONG LONG amount of time needed to coax a dead battery back feels too counterproductive to me. Doing that was my "original" plan. Build the ~Imhotep~ Bedini SSG with a case fan and use it to resurrect the seriously dead battery that I have and didn't feel like spending the money to replace. Instead of being excited about how well it put some charge back into that dead battery in just a week, I'm much more interested and excited to "play" with other aspects of this than use it for the old dead battery! Just my not so humble opinion...

[Bodkins]

Hello everyone
Found this sit when looking for stuff to swap batterys I think you may find it useful,You can buy kits for simple switching to overheating circuits which could be used moniter the Transister. Please check it out.

Electroteach - educational electronic kits for students, teachers and hobbiests

Really hope this help someone
Take Care All

[**~Imhotep~**]

Please share all results. And other people are having fun seeing what else that can do with it also. Im actually shocked how different aspects of these little fans there is to them. As far the dead batteries, it does take alot of time and patience, i ran mine off power supplys to test the desulfation of the units, 3 in parallel, and on the batteries i have seen the crystals over time and that fascinated me. But then i repeat over time..lol. Will be glad to see any adaptations. yay! Ren had a VERY interesting one a few post back.

[Rayaz]

I am just wondering if someone can point out how to check the continuity of the coils before I put this fan back together? I am having much trouble soldering it together so I'd like to make sure it is done properly before I actually finish it.

And also what should the readings be when connected where? Opposite from each post or clockwise? etc. Thanks!

I did take the advice and get lead free w/ silver solder instead of Rosin Core, it works a bit better, I managed to solder one post!

I have a Mastercraft digital mutimeter, it has lots of options but none of them change when I put the leads on the coils.. Since resistance is measured with the omega sign (horseshoe) I'd imagine thats what I'm supposed to be using?? Well I have the options of 2000k, 200k, 20k, 2000, 200 but none do anything except show a 1.

edit: I just got a reading to show up using 2000k mode, it went from 1600 to 400 and then stabilized between 800-1400, this was from 2 opposite posts, and this is all I could get to happen, any advice?

I also noticed one of the gap between coils has no wire crossing it, is this a problem?

[**~Imhotep~**]

Interesting note :

For those of you, who are pulsing batteries with caps. I/m posting pictures of a setup i have recently done. Would like for someone to comment, at the excessive voltages coming off this cap.

have u tried this?
I only tapped the charge clip for one second i haven't left it on any longer than that before i get any confirmation from someone i would not recommend pulsing through a cap. it reaches 80 volts in about a half second and keeps climbing. Ive worked with a lot of caps and i do not think this is a good idea, but i may be wrong, but for those that are experimenting with these fans ,(warning) the cap i am using is a 50 volt 3.3uf bipolar electrolytic in series with a 3 volt lithium pile cr2 and a 2000mah NiHM aa battery.

Before i get confirmation i would not suggest doing this, pulsing through a cap.
heres the pics of the setup and the voltage.




i am monitoring fan output voltage and across the cap please be careful, don't let these caps explode. Mine has not exploded yet i have not left it on long enough. Only about a half second.

Warning!!!!!

[ren]

The capacitor will most likely break down over time from over charging. If you want a cheap good cap for pulsing pull apart an old disposable camera for the flash capacitor. Thats what I used in the previous video. Its low uF but high voltage and designed with dumping energy in mind. Theres plenty of high voltage caps in old circuit boards, vcr's etc. As always Be careful with your tests and experiments.

You can experiment by placing a micro switch in the negative leg of the capacitor to charge battery. Monitor your cap voltage and complete the circuit at desired voltage by triggering the switch manually. Then its just a little step away to install the 555 to do it for you

[**~Imhotep~**]

The capacitor will most likely break down over time from over charging. If you want a cheap good cap for pulsing pull apart an old disposable camera for the flash capacitor. Thats what I used in the previous video. Its low uF but high voltage and designed with dumping energy in mind. Theres plenty of high voltage caps in old circuit boards, vcr's etc. As always Be careful with your tests and experiments.

You can experiment by placing a micro switch in the negative leg of the capacitor to charge battery. Monitor your cap voltage and complete the circuit at desired voltage by triggering the switch manually. Then its just a little step away to install the 555 to do it for you

ty very much i just got a old camera from my father today! and i also owned my own electronics shops and I have BOATLOADS! to put it conservatively of old stock left..lol. im very glad that your are contributing to this thread. I had read in previous post that ppl were dumping it through caps and had used a small one just to see how fast and far the voltage went and became worried that other people would just dumo it through just any cap. ty for straightening everyone out to do it safely.

you and themart and other seniors please watch over this thread so newbies coming off youtube dont make bad mistakes this is a little fan but it packs a punch when it is wired just the right way. again ty ty ty ty