Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[Rayaz]

]When you connect the battery fan should not move.
what curciut you using?Rayaz

Well the fan 'jerks' forward a bit but stops due to magnetic force
I am using the one described in Imhoteps videos

these fans arent self starters. trying spinning it up. If you have already tried this, you can switch the trigger wire coils. if you have tried that look your circuit over carefully and make sure you have all connections correct. 3 amp diode should not make a difference, might switch a little slower but thats about it. let us know.

I have tried spinning it up, by trigger coils do you mean switch + to - to see if I picked the right ones? I have tried. As far as I can tell I put it together properly I just tried switching the diode around between E/B because I thought I might have done that wrong but still no go.

When I test between the two opposite wires of each other from the coils I get 0 ohms on 2000k setting. Should they not be opposite coils? Does it have to be side by side?

[**~Imhotep~**]

1 - are you using the original coils or did you rewind them?
A - if you are using original coils, and have four wires coming out, 2 of the wires that have continuity which should be at least a couple of ohms, will be one of your coils. The other set of wires should have a very similar reading. That is your other set coils. If that is the case where you have at least 2ohms or some single digit ohm or more but no more than 60ohms. You have the coil correct.
2 - If you rewound the coils yourself. there is instructions earlier on how to rewind them yourself. Which is 2 wires spun at least 40 times around each pole clockwise, counter-clockwise, then clockwise, then counter-clockwise

3 - if your coils are ok, then the next thing i would check, i would remove the outside circuit and check the transister with everything disconnected from it, from the base to the emitter with a ohm meter you should have a very high resistance one way and low resistance the other way. if you dont, then you might have a bad transistor. also check the diode. one way it will high resistance, the other way it wont.

(on your lowest setting on your ohm meter, which my lowest setting is 200 ohms on my meter. And dont use the higher settings on your meter always use the lowest settings. on some meters there is a diode check it will look like a picture of a diode. And you can use that setting, one way will have low digit readout and the other way high digit readout. )

If the diode or the transistor has 0 ohms,then they could be bad, and u should try substituting a different one, do not deviate from the schematic as far as the hookup of the transistor or diodes. If you are still unsure you can search the internet and you can find information on how to test a diode or transistor.

If all that checks out ok. Then hook your coils up one side of one set will be your positive input the other side will go down to the collector or case of the transistor.

The other set of coils one side will go to the either side of your adjustable vol. The other side will hook to the emittor pin of the transisitor, thats power coil

what i meant by switching the polartity, is sometimes you will have to take the wire off the second set of coils (trigger coil)and swap positions,

in otherwords the side you had hooked to the vol control you'll move that to the emitter pin and take the other wire and put it on the vol. and that about it.

dont complicate it check all your parts, the schematic is in the movie, download the movie, when you get to the schematic pause it or look at previous post, either way look the schematic over and dont be afraid to search on the internet how to test these components.

There is only a couple of components, and relax you will get them going. Ive done dozens of them and ran into dozens of problems. Sometimes you have to walk away from them clear your head an come back to the unit and look it over again. take your time and have fun. its all a learning experience. Let us know how it goes

[Rayaz]

Hmmm the opposite posts checked out at 20 ohms each. I did not rewind them it is the way it was set up.

However I checked the transistor from E/B like you said and am getting no reading...

Are transistors easy to wreck with this circuit if I had the wires set up wrong? Will it wreck it if I put the positive from the coils where the negatives should go and vice versa?
Or is it possible to melt the insides when soldering to the pins and wreck it that way?

I am thinking it wrecked when I hooked it up to the battery? Because the neon only sparked once the very first time I hooked it up and none of the times after that.

Also just checked both diodes, and am getting no reading on them either... Are they sensitive to high heat as well? I got them pretty hot with my cold/hot soldering tool even to the point where I had to set it down and let it cool off.

I tried alternating the nodes on my multimeter because I wasn't sure which way is right, still no reading.

edit: Since I will be picking up new parts on monday now, is it ok to use a 2 amp diodes as opposed to 2.5? The store only has 2 or 3

[**~Imhotep~**]

However I checked the transistor from E/B like you said and am getting no reading...

you should have no reading that way, now switch your probes around measure the same pins. You should get a low ohms reading. Not 0 ohms, but low.

Are transistors easy to wreck with this circuit if I had the wires set up wrong? Will it wreck it if I put the positive from the coils where the negatives should go and vice versa?

if you use the transistor i suggested its a pretty stout one. And they are pretty hard to wreck actually. But they can be wrecked. If you hook the voltage wrong to them for any amount of time, then yes you can wreck them. They are npn's. That means negative has to go to the emitter, and negative has to go to the collector, and positive has to go to the base. They can be reversed briefly, but not for a long amount of time.

I am thinking it wrecked when I hooked it up to the battery? Because the neon only sparked once the very first time I hooked it up and none of the times after that.

i have had them just blink for a second for just a second when i hooked them up, and the fan blades rock. But they would still be ok. Just the transistor like i said earlier. Take your probes hook them up one way, then reverse your probes across your pins and you should have a high reading one way and a low reading the other. Theres all kinds of information online with visuals on how to test this particular transistor. Which is a t03 case. With 2 pins and the case being the collector. Its very easy to test.

Also just checked both diodes, and am getting no reading on them either... Are they sensitive to high heat as well? I got them pretty hot with my cold/hot soldering tool even to the point where I had to set it down and let it cool off.

Well for one thing, i dont suggest using the cold heat soldering tool. Its good for large lug type connections. But radio shack has little irons that will work just fine.
As far as diodes, The same thing applies to them as with transistor. Take your probes, hook them one way on the diode, then reverse your probes. And check it the other way. When you have the red probe on the cathode and the black on the anode, you will have a certain resistance reading. When you reverse the probes you will have another reading. The readings should be different. If its 0ohms which ever way you put your probes on, its shorted. If there is no reading which ever way you put the probes on, then it could be open. Remember low ohms one way, higher ohms the other way when you reverse the probes

Since I will be picking up new parts on monday now, is it ok to use a 2 amp diodes as opposed to 2.5? The store only has 2 or 3

the 2 amps are fine. You could prob go as low as 1 amp. But 2 amp should work just as good as the 2.5 amp.

Hi Guys,


You guys have got to try putting a small universal motor on the back end of an SSG.I tried this with a hoover vacuum motor and talk about ZOOM had to be many thousand rpms pulling just under 1.2 amps & my cap reads a high of 16 volts at the back end of SSG .


-Gary

wow! share some details take some pictures and possibly video. That sounds awesome!!

[Rayaz]

Should the reading only show up for a split second when I connect the probes from the meter to the transistor/diodes? Because thats what is happening on the diodes, it is not a continuous reading.

Also there is no reading between the pins on the transistor not even for a split second, just a reading between the base and the case. Does this mean that I fried it?


Here are images of my circuit so you can see what I have going on here.

[elcman]

I haven't been able to focus on this like I've wanted to, but I had nearly a dozen other things come up that have been occupying me.

I've been readying my garage in prep for a garage sale... As soon as I can clear that place out, I'm going to figure out how to get power in there and make a mini testing lab. (As per the discussion with the batteries potentially blowing up, my wife has been eying the humming fan with a bit of paranoia.)

If the garage blows... GREAT!

In any case, I've gotten two lead acid batteries to start taking charge, these are not the same as the first two UPS batteries I had. These took a charge immediately, so I'm been working with them to get these batteries conditioned. It's funny... the battery's condition is just as important as anything else in this process... something I didn't quite expect, but it makes sense.

I also found, while cleaning out my garage, 3 other car batteries that have been sitting fallow. I know two of them worked fine up, but were replaced due to age and not easily starting in winter. As soon as I can get a consistent battery that can be recharged quickly, I am going to work on the rest of these.

Here's a question about a switching circuit... You all have been talking about making a circuit that will feed the source battery when the charging battery is "done" in order to maintain the cycle. Is it possible to switch the energy input between batteries rapidly? (Timed to every revolution or half revolution?) If the charging battery has enough charge to turn the fan, it should continue without trouble, but the momentum of the fan may also compensate for this switching motion as well. (Of course a dead battery will act like you just turned the potentiometer all the way up.)

But if you could check the charging battery to make sure that there was enough energy to do this switching motion, then you could condition and charge both batteries.

Does that sound like a possibility? Since I really don't have a conditioned battery yet, developing a method that would condition both would be handy.

Ah well, I need to make another fan or 3. I'm also looking into that converting an ATX power supply to a Workbench DC Power Supply... That'll save me from running from one rechargeable drill battery over and over again.

Good times.

[**~Imhotep~**]

I haven't been able to focus on this like I've wanted to, but I had nearly a dozen other things come up that have been occupying me.

I've been readying my garage in prep for a garage sale... As soon as I can clear that place out, I'm going to figure out how to get power in there and make a mini testing lab. (As per the discussion with the batteries potentially blowing up, my wife has been eying the humming fan with a bit of paranoia.)

If the garage blows... GREAT!

In any case, I've gotten two lead acid batteries to start taking charge, these are not the same as the first two UPS batteries I had. These took a charge immediately, so I'm been working with them to get these batteries conditioned. It's funny... the battery's condition is just as important as anything else in this process... something I didn't quite expect, but it makes sense.

I also found, while cleaning out my garage, 3 other car batteries that have been sitting fallow. I know two of them worked fine up, but were replaced due to age and not easily starting in winter. As soon as I can get a consistent battery that can be recharged quickly, I am going to work on the rest of these.

Here's a question about a switching circuit... You all have been talking about making a circuit that will feed the source battery when the charging battery is "done" in order to maintain the cycle. Is it possible to switch the energy input between batteries rapidly? (Timed to every revolution or half revolution?) If the charging battery has enough charge to turn the fan, it should continue without trouble, but the momentum of the fan may also compensate for this switching motion as well. (Of course a dead battery will act like you just turned the potentiometer all the way up.)

But if you could check the charging battery to make sure that there was enough energy to do this switching motion, then you could condition and charge both batteries.

Does that sound like a possibility? Since I really don't have a conditioned battery yet, developing a method that would condition both would be handy.

Ah well, I need to make another fan or 3. I'm also looking into that converting an ATX power supply to a Workbench DC Power Supply... That'll save me from running from one rechargeable drill battery over and over again.

Good times.

i love the great moto i am in the process of expanding the capabilities of these units rapidly (paralleling and switching) will be uploading more soon
i have heard of that swapping method and will be trying soon, that would be the best method .
some batteries are suppose to not like being switched that way, but i will test that for myself and give it a try i can get all the stock(batteries etc.) i want .

you can use any power supply from from swich mode 9 volt to 35 volt i would guess but switch mode pwr supp must have load all the time, the built in fans usually on computer supples furnish that . so i would leave the unaltered fan inside if you try.
i use a variable supply 0-36 volt, i redesigned it to have current regulation as well as voltage regulation .
you can use the little wall plug in types (0-36 volt dc) as long you check your current draw on your fan (after alteration ) make sure your power supply has a little more than what you draw.
have fun and post data (share) results

[**~Imhotep~**]

Should the reading only show up for a split second when I connect the probes from the meter to the transistor/diodes? Because thats what is happening on the diodes, it is not a continuous reading.

Also there is no reading between the pins on the transistor not even for a split second, just a reading between the base and the case. Does this mean that I fried it?


Here are images of my circuit so you can see what I have going on here.

i will be uploading instruction now ! it will include pix with some explanations and should help

[**~Imhotep~**]

ImageShack - Hosting :: p5310049mz9.jpg

hookup is correct.make sure your clip leads arent shorting to the case of the transistor. (only on pins, going on emitter and on the base) clips are ok for temp hookup. your hook up looks good, if the red and black wires are one set of coils. And the 2 yellow wires are another set of coils. (you might want to put a knot on one of the ends if you used the same color. if the red and black wires have good continuity 10 to 60 ohms, try reversing the clip leads. move the yellow clip to the red wire and the white clip to the black wire. if after you switch those and the fan still does spin up, the most likely you have bad parts somewhere in the circuit. I will be sending pictures on how to test the transistor and diodes.

[**~Imhotep~**]

if you have a digital meter and u put it on diode test. And the transistor is facing the way it is in the picture which is pins are closer to the top. This is what the normal (good) reading should look like. Keep a close eye on how the clips are hooked up on the transistor.(colors)



again look at the digital read out and the way the clip leads are connected. And thats the reading of a good transistor. And the reading should stay steady.





DO NOT BUY OPEN BOX OR OPEN CONTAINER PARTS FROM RADIO SHACK!! I HAVE AND PPL WILL BURN THEM UP AND TAKE THEM BACK AND I FOUGHT MY FIRST FAN WITH A BAD TRANSISTOR I BOUGHT FROM RADIO SHACK!!! ONLY SEALED PACKAGES
set digital meters on diode setting (diode pix on dial)

[**~Imhotep~**]

this is if you take the measurements with an analog meter. again pay special attention to the positions of both the needle, and the leads, both red lead and black lead.






now the diodes :




u get the idea on the analog meters make sure you set it to rx1

[Rayaz]

Thankyou very much for the assistance Imhotep!

Yes the 2 yellow are both the same side.

Well it appears with the testing that the transistor is dead it has no reading from the pins so I will try with a new one on monday.

[Bodkins]

Also Imhotep thanks this is very useful info.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Thankyou very much for the assistance Imhotep!

Yes the 2 yellow are both the same side.

Well it appears with the testing that the transistor is dead it has no reading from the pins so I will try with a new one on monday.

while you are at it get a few, if you want to parallel output of more baby ssg's
free computer fans are everywhere.
i'm glad i could help, and you have gained a new skill (troubleshooting).i have made small fortune on troubleshooting skills yay!
have fun and get some recycled energy .

[**~Imhotep~**]

This is revised schematic with more details. (this is not a bendini monopole motor ssg)