Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[marseye]

@jackwestly,

Until you get satisfactory results, you're going to be full of inner doubts, like we all (most of us) have been. Stay quiet, because once you'll know how to make it run, then you'll replicate it at will with ease. And it's very easy.

1) could you have a confirmation with a multimeter that each start/end that you declare are really the right pairs for each coil ?

2) if they are, try to reverse one start/end only

Your bulb should be a neon (or any gaz) needing alternative current and rated at least for 65v (because with a filament, it could make contact all of the time, ie : be lit from dc, and it would in fact drive the current permanently). It's prefered than the bulb has a 110v rating ( I've used 220v bulbs with success), since energy peaks may reach several hundred volts, but with feeble amperage (what permits the bulb be lit). The bulb is meant to let you find a good setting ('sweet spot', where the higher the peaks go, since we started from 12v...), AND to prevent your transistor of burning when no battery is attached after it. Oh :and when a charging battery is attached, the buld will certainly not light any more : that's normal.

About your fan stopping but yet 'singing', it may indicate that your setup is right, and that you have a charging battery attached after the diode from the collector, meaning your charging battery is quite empty and 'sucks' all of the current. But : even a 'singing' fan makes the desired oscillations and peaks (see it then as a piezo thing, since sound is oscillation). Those peaks are what charge the 'receiving' battery.

But just try to deplug any charging battery, and the fan should run ok (but keep your bulb attached, for the reasons already said above).

If nothing still works correctly, you then will have to verify that
all of your components are ok (no shorting between the fan's coils; transistor still alive; a good half watt 100 ohms resistor in between a good pot and the base; the diodes should be fine too)

If still not a clue, then try another fan maybe. I, as most of us, have broken around half a dozen fans before I could be sure of the real thing.
Nevertheless are worth each of your failures, as they teach you at least as much as you successes, maybe more.

A very last solution may be found in a low voltage from the main battery that you'd wrongly think is (about) 12.5v.... But it would be really bad luck!

Don't get desperate : once you'll see it running right, then is the very begining of a great journey on a neverending new path of curiosity for what the school didn't teach you.

You're welcome.

[jackwestly]

@jackwestly,

Until you get satisfactory results, you're going to be full of inner doubts, like we all (most of us) have been. Stay quiet, because once you'll know how to make it run, then you'll replicate it at will with ease. And it's very easy.



Don't get desperate : once you'll see it running right, then is the very begining of a great journey on a neverending new path of curiosity for what the school didn't teach you.

Many thinks to Marseye.
i will keep try until i get it .

have check the
* coil ok ....... 1)139.4ohm 2)138.8ohm. no short
* transister ok ...1.96k
* diod ok
* battery only 12v

many thanks

[marseye]

@ jackwestly :

You know what ? I've been helped before, and without a doubt will have to be helped again myself about other subjects... So, please, don't mention it.

As I already said : don't hesitate to give a look there : John Bedini Simplified School Girl basic plans : it's the same, on a bigger scale (except there's no cw and ccw for the coil's windings, since the magnets on the wheel are all north).

Just an idea : could your coils' extremities still be enamelled enough ?

Ah : "battery just 12v", you said. A healthy battery is rather 12.5 Volts : isn't yours discharged ? You may want to feed your setup after a simple transfo (about: 500 mA out, or more).

To check your transistor : a multimeter, set on diode position, should read only when :
- positive probe on the base and negative probe on the collector
- positive probe on the base and negative probe on the emitter
- if it reads after you reversed the probes : then the transistor is dead.

Good luck, you're near.

[jackwestly]

My bedini move finally ha ha

After see your reply then i figure it out that my Neon bulb 12v .... oh my god .... why i didn't saw. Thats why the fan motor did not run . must be taking to much current and voltage.

i try some different neon bulb voltage: but i did not add another resistor on the (you should put at least a real 100 ohms resistor between your pot and the transsistor's base, so that you never can reach 0 with the pot (that may burn your transistor)

Result
12v.... sure cannot run
24v.... can run but not long the transistor set to very low
120v... is running
220v ... very good ... i hook on the charge point diod and (-) get 6.25V

and also try 9v battery can run also but in low speed. I put the LED light to the charging point the fan stop . will try next day for charging the 2x 1.5V battery, see how it work.

Was thinking that ??? if i use a 12v battery to run this circuit to charge the order battery then after the 12v battery run out i need another 12v battery to charge my run out battery .......

Anyway, special thanks to **~Imhotep~** to set p this topic and the VIDEO.and many thanks to **marseye**

[marseye]

The one who's in a search, he generally finds ! Great for you

[iknewit]

Would someone be kind enough to provide an explanation of the Bedini-Imhotep circuit so that I and maybe other noobs can try to get a better understanding of what's going on?

Thank you.

[jackwestly]

Was thinking that ??? if i use a 12v battery(source) to run this circuit to charge the order battery then after the 12v battery (source) run out i need another 12v battery to charge my run out battery .......please tell me i'm wrong

[Joit]

iknewit
There are couple Threads 20 pages back, what have usefull things in it,
you only need to tread them.
Here is a Video, what shows it in a simple way, how the Circuit works.
YouTube - Understanding the Bedini Circuit

Was thinking that ??? if i use a 12v battery(source) to run this circuit to charge the order battery then after the 12v battery (source) run out i need another 12v battery to charge my run out battery .......please tell me i'm wrong

It is indeed like you said it. It is no perpetuum Mobile, what charge the Run Batterie.
But at last, you can charge almost all kind of Batteries, try that the normal way.
They got more capacity and no memory effect.
This should it be worth for you.
To understand the Circuit better, you may play a lot more around with it.
And no, i dont know a sucessfull rebuilt from a Circuit what charge the run Batterie, even, when i made once one, but it was something like the Window Motor from Bedini, actually a Newman Motor.

[jackwestly]

Joit,

Thanks for the information.Hope i can upgrade my circuit.
Thanks

[psyionx]

Hi all... i've just finish the the bedini fan. Thanks for Imhotep for a good and easy to follow video. well, i cant find the diode here in my side. then the with no idea what else to follow, i bought 2 In5408 diode and follow the non mod fan. to my finding of after figuring out which wire goes where and where. my fan turnd... ^^

my parts
2 new batteries
1 2n3055
1 1k potentiometer
2 IN5408 diodes
1 neon bulb
2 new motorcycle batteries


but...
the neon light did lite but just for a few moment then no more. no matter how i tried, the light only lite when i start the fan, when the fan gone up certain speed, no light. i did use my finger to slow down the fan and it did but after a few try, the neon will not lite again until i swap the battery, odd result. i guess i'll try to change the diode to IN4007 what i just found out few pages back tomorrow morning.

by the way i have a few questions,


will there be improvement if i hookup 2 fan in parallel but one circuit???

will the the effect be double if i built 2 fan each with its own circuit but run from the same source and charge batteries???


thanks

[psyionx]

any comments?

pardon me that i'm very new to electrical. but i somehow have manage to make the fan running. thanks to imhoteps web site tutorials for the tips before i fry tools. and easy to follow instruction.

i've change my diode to the in4007 ones and change the pot to 2k. and the neon does lite much more easy from tuning the pot. but i'm confused. i'm a bit confuse to the video on youtube. i see neon lite blink. but when i connect the charging battery my neon have no light. is it because the charging battery took all the voltage? is the system built this way? i have no oscilloscope to see voltage spike.


since my neon only lite when theres no charging medium, i try to play with the system and see what i get. i put the source battery in series so that i have 24 volt. the fan does run with more power. and the neon light lite brighter

then i connect the 2 pieces 2k pot in series. my try is to tune the pot to get the neon to lite up. to start both pot are set to the lest resistance. than i tune one pot to get neon lite up. if i go more the neon no lite. then after 1st pot turn finish. i turn the 2nd pot and i found another sweet spot where the neon will lite up.

neon blink rate
A
|
|
|
|_____/\_______________/\________ maybe more peak->
|
|
|
|-----------------------------------------------------> resistance by pot

not too sure what i've found out. not sure if its worth to investigate.
any comment??? what have happend?


my first try... the neon bulb lite some purple color lite on the tip of the terminal for a short moment on the 2nd peak. then after a few try no more purple color lite from the tip. maybe some thing in the neon tube got burn off or its my imagination... really i'm dono what i see....

[Joit]

Hi,
actually it is right, when you connect a Batterie, that the Bulb goes off,
and yes, the Batterie takes the Power.
The Bulb is even used as indicator too, once, that your Batterie get charged,
and second to find the sweet Spot better, tuned with the Pot.
There been few times mentioned that you should adjust it to the highest rpm
and the lowest Amp draw from the Source.
You have to connect your Meter in serie after the Plus from Runbatterie, to see it.
For the Bulb, its actually, Current will go there, where is lower Resistance,
and that will be at the Batterie.
You can disconnect the Bulb anyway after, when you charge the Batterie,
because its anyhow wasted Energy, any you only need it as Indicator.
When a Led actually light purple it is mostly like that, that it get to much power.
Not sure if you use a neon or a Led.
For the Pot, let see what it does. A Transistor is like a switch, what opens,
and depends how far, how much current/power he get at the Base.
As more, as more wider he opens, and as more current he will let trough the Coils.
There is a limit, what the Wires can handle, before they get hot.
So when you place 2 Pots in serie, its nothing more as a higher ratet Pot,
but you could more fine tune it, when you ie use a 5k and a 1k Pot.
The complete Amount of Resistance will be the same if you use one or 2 Pots.
For the Diodes, they are only differnt ratet at higher Voltage, ie, 1n4001 - 4007 are ratet from 50V - 400 V or something.
When you look informations on certain parts, then Datasheet.net is a good Source for that,
just type the part numbers in above.
But mainly it does not make much different what you use for the base,
because there is not much current there, its the inductive current from the 2 Coil pair,
and the switch rate is usual at 300-1000 hz, what most Diodes could handle easy.
And well, for that, that the Fans are easy Projects, you can use the 4007 for charging the Batterie too, but i would prefer a fast switching Diode or a Schottky Diode, because they switch faster, what is better for the Spikes.
Using 2 Coils, it would increase the Rate of charging, but you need more Power too,
to run the Circuit.

[psyionx]

Thanks Joit for the explanation. it frees me from most of the confusion that this new project of mine gave me. certainly my head don't hurt anymore.

I'll do some the current test tomorrow. by the way, about the Schottky Diode is the 1N5711 good enough? i can see a lot form datasheet.net.

[hdsat]

as it should be properly

[hatman]

How is this free energy?

Hi,
I am new to this and just trying to understand and learn as possible so I apologize if my question seems silly. After reading a whole lot on this and watching the suggested videos it remains a mystery to me on how exactly is this free energy. It appears that you need a power supply to run the fan, which then charges the dead battery. Is this an over-unity device? If I need a battery to charge another battery - why would I do that? How many batteries can I charge with one battery?

If anyone can explain or give examples of the input and output voltage, polarity, wattage, etc. that would be great.

Thanks!