Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[johnsonkid]

Yes, definetely : the source battery always has to be of a greater voltage (even if it is slightly) compared to the charging battery, in order to be able to fill it up.
Just take care that the charging tension tends to fall down rapidly once disconnected (you can check that by leaving a multitester's probes attached for a moment): that's why, for example, a 9v battery should be charged around 10.5-11v.

Anyway, the more you'll charge a battery, the more it should become responsive to a radiant charge (that's called : conditionning, and it's a know fact among such system's users).
Lots of observations still to do to understand and try to "master" your system, but that's a good start. Congrats.

[Farmhand]

Another trick that can work and has for some is to connect a capacitor across the battery the cap will collect charge and hold it on the battery a bit better, this helps to actually get some charge into the battery and raise its voltage a bit so the energiser is not "working" into 1 or so volt.

I don't know what could have caused the CFL - neon anomaly, that sounds a bit spooky.

Cheers

Doh forgot another thing, after the battery can hold some voltage remove the capacitor so the spikes can hit the battery.

[aussie]

the source battery always has to be of a greater voltage

ok, the solar did that.

Another trick that can work and has for some is to connect a capacitor across the battery the cap.

ok, will give that a go.

I don't know what could have caused the CFL - neon anomaly, that sounds a bit spooky.

i do not know either, but got in on camera

tried a 12V car battery today and again the charge got reduced.
the last time i charged it was about 1 year ago.

main V, charge V, time
21.10,10.70, 13:15 - start, no load
-----, 10.03, 18:30 - not enough sun, stopped

i cannot use it in my car anymore anyway, so will keep on going, trying to condition it.

what happens if i leave the solar connected to the fan, when there is not enough power to run it?
can i keep it connected, or should i disconnect it?
when the panel is back in action in the morning, will it at some stage damage the circuit, or could it just go back and kick off the action again?

[Farmhand]

ok, the solar did that.


ok, will give that a go.


i do not know either, but got in on camera

tried a 12V car battery today and again the charge got reduced.
the last time i charged it was about 1 year ago.

main V, charge V, time
21.10,10.70, 13:15 - start, no load
-----, 10.03, 18:30 - not enough sun, stopped

i cannot use it in my car anymore anyway, so will keep on going, trying to condition it.

what happens if i leave the solar connected to the fan, when there is not enough power to run it?
can i keep it connected, or should i disconnect it?
when the panel is back in action in the morning, will it at some stage damage the circuit, or could it just go back and kick off the action again?

I would disconnect it. How many volts and amps does the solar panel produce ?

Umm I re-read you're post. Does the neon stay on all the time ? The neon should go out when you connect the charge battery. I prefer to power the fan from a 12v battery to desulfate another one, then a solar panel can be connected to the source battery this way the source voltage will stay fairly even and it will keep going overnight.

A normal 12 volt panel can get to 20 volts or so if the power it can produce is not used by the load. It might not damage it but it sure will make it go round. Maybe it could damage it though. depends.

Cheers

[aussie]

thanks for the quick replies. this is great!!

I would disconnect it. How many volts and amps does the solar panel produce ?

ok, will do.
the panel, according to the label once put out about 12V and 3.8 amps or so.
it is a 12V panel, but has 21V no load and the fan seems to only be able to
drop it down to just under 20V.
it is an old panel from a caravan, so would doubt that it still has this power.

Umm I re-read you're post. Does the neon stay on all the time ? The neon should go out when you connect the charge battery.

without battery, the neon stays on.
with the new 12V 7.2AH battery it used to flicker, but with the panel it runs so fast that it is on constantly.
Once i connect the 12V car battery, the neon turns off.
With the old 12V 7.2AH battery being charged, the neon just dimmed a bit.

I prefer to power the fan from a 12v battery to desulfate another one, then a solar panel can be connected to the source battery this way the source voltage will stay fairly even and it will keep going overnight.

i have thought about that as well, but do not want to connect a new 12Vbattery to a 21V source. i might have to look at a power reducer.
the panel + another used to be connected to a charger and then to deep cycle batteries.

A normal 12 volt panel can get to 20 volts or so if the power it can produce is not used by the load. It might not damage it but it sure will make it go round. Maybe it could damage it though. depends.

mate, it is going round all right
i have put the fan into a small vice, so that it does not take off

will see how we go.

[Farmhand]

G'day aussie, That all sounds good, it should be putting some charge on the batteries, running from 20 volts should improve it's performance, the neon coming on with the old battery might stop if you connect a capacitor or a larger one if you already did. Anyway you got it under control now by the sound of it. Good stuff.

Cheers

You know what I think I might get one of my Imhotep fans out of the cupboard and power it from a solar panel too, to see if mine can handle it.
Sounds like fun, I'll get a shot of the waveform if it doesn't burn up first.
Umm tomorrow that is it's nightime now.

[hemanhieu]

I m confuse about this power fan, Imhotep.

Finnally I found you Imhotep.
Why do I need the light there? can I by pass it and or capture that energy and put it into the 12 volt deep cycle house supply battery for home use?
2. Why do I need 12 volt feeder. isn't that will drain the 1 st battery ? how about capture the out put of the fan into a capacitor 16 volts. (I don't see them sell 12 volt capacitor).. Then use the diod thing and send it to the energy feed in line of the fan ? how can I reduce the energy from 16 down to 12? any one know how please tell me what resistor or component/parts I needed please. how to reduce 1 volt 2 volt and three volt, 4 volt (from 16 volt down to 15, 14, 13, (I can use this way to reduce from 12 volt down to 7 volt when I need tooo right? reason: because security camera some use 7.2-7.5 volt). (radio shack item/stock number?)
I found someone show how to highjack voltage: mean bring voltage up to 3.5 or something from 1.2 battery to light the let light. but the video not show the component/parts needed. I need to raise from 1.5-3 volt . 2.5 to 4.5. or 3 to 6v (this is for spot where I can not use 6 volt lead dry acid too big.
And from 6 volt to 7 to 8 to 9.
How do I do that please. This question was stuck in my head for over 5 years but I could not find answer

4. What is the Uh should I use on the capacitor? to make sign wave no spike
5. Other youtube said the spike every time the fan spin the circle coil pass magnet ... could dammage the lead acid battery. ? so should /could I add the capacitor before it go to battery ?(should I add the diode again after the capacitor to make one way positive flow? Please email me allgame619 at ya ho o. I m not sure how to get back here to read your message.
I m very impess about all this and love it, but new to this . take me few days to figure out about the fan. Thought it no feed in power, just spin and it run forever. This great idea will help me blow the huminity under the house out. It created mold. and alot of useful for other things around the house.
Please email : allgame619 at ya h o o. please teach me.
Thank you sooo veryyy much alot alot alot.
Hieu
PS: I also would like to know how to build a magnet motor will run all by itself and output high to use for house grid. The motor will run by magnet push. May be this not yet available or strong enought. But this will come later, when u guys have time.

[dR-Green]

had one strange thing happen with a previous neon.
was filming the neon flash in a red/purple colour and turned off the
light (11W CFL) on my desk, so that you can see it better on the camera.
for some reason the neon also turned off.
it was light on, neon on, light off, neon off.
shortly after that the neon did not light up again.

Aussie, check this thread here on this neon effect

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tive-neon.html

[dR-Green]

Thanks for this idea and info Imhotep. I built one yesterday and got it up and running after playing with the polarities of the wires. The circuit board must be glued on or something because I couldn't get it off and any more force and I'd probably break the case, so I just snipped the wires and soldered bigger ones on directly and taped them down inside the case. It works more efficiently as a fan than it did with the original circuit but I'm not sure about the output. The scope shows nearly 60v spikes with a charging battery connected, but only 2-4mA on the meter, with 200-300mA input. I bought two identical ones at the same time anyway so I'll convert the other one as well and play around some more.

Interesting so far. I also have some motors from CD/DVD drives I've taken apart which look like they could be suitable, one is even tri-filar so I'll see if those can be done too within the next day or two. Thanks

[edit] I almost forgot, all hell nearly broke loose using this thing last night I'm using single diodes and 4 diodes on terminal blocks so I can easily connect/disconnect different ways of collecting the output from the machines, so last night I was using a single diode configuration but with 2 of them on the terminal block configured to be connected to a tri-filar coil, so connected to this bi-filar fan there were 2 spare wires dangling there which I assumed would be ok. Well, within 2 minutes the wire coming from the negative terminal of the charging battery made contact with the transistor emitter. The fan kept on going, but smoke started coming from the wires. The wire that made the actual contact with the emitter burnt and the plastic on the end melted up into a big bubble, all the other wires melted together and had to be torn apart. The solder even came loose from the crocodile clip going to the source battery's positive. It was HOT Anyway, after ripping all the wires apart and taping up all the exposed areas, it spin right back up again As far as I can make out that was just negative shorting to another negative so I dunno what happened there. Dunno if I want to try it again

[deliberatus]

curcuit diagram please?

Please draw up an accurate detailed circuit diagram of the device. I don't demand part numbers, but at least if you can, identify the parts. They look like a pair of 1 amp switching transistors, but the bog boy transistor leaves me puzzled- and what diodes are they?

Now here's a thrill; once it's running, disconnect the battery. NO BATTERY IN CIRCUIT. I don't care about the neon bulb. Let's see how long it keeps spinning without a battery. You can put a nice hefty electrolytic capacitor in the thing to carry it over output variations.

I want as many details as you know how to write about.

[aussie]

Yes, definetely : the source battery always has to be of a greater voltage (even if it is slightly) compared to the charging battery, in order to be able to fill it up.

hmmmm , i have two 12V batteries, unless i use the solar panel.
a 12V 7.2AH which is new and a 120AH (i think - large car battery) which
shows 10.1V now, which i would like to charge.
so what you are saying is, that this is not going to work?

i have always wandered, why my charging voltage seems to decrease and not increase.

the solar panel unfortunately is not strong enough to keep two fans going,
as soon as there are some clouds, so i stuck a battery on there for a night.

i have to get a charger for the solar panel (reduce 21V to 13.xV) to hook up
to the battery so that i can run the system 24/7.

[sucahyo]

hmmmm , i have two 12V batteries, unless i use the solar panel.
a 12V 7.2AH which is new and a 120AH (i think - large car battery) which
shows 10.1V now, which i would like to charge.

That is too low, may damage the battery. use until 11.45V.

Yes, definetely : the source battery always has to be of a greater voltage (even if it is slightly) compared to the charging battery, in order to be able to fill it up.

No, that is wrong. See bellow.

i have to get a charger for the solar panel (reduce 21V to 13.xV) to hook up to the battery so that i can run the system 24/7.

With correct wiring the charger can charge 3V with 12V source or charge 12V with 3V source.

I don't use fan charger often so I can not help much. But it is important to measure how much current going in and how much current going out. Power the circuit with around 500mA to 1000mA current to get good enough voltage to charge.

Make sure you connect the diode correctly. In normal configuration the charged negative connect to the source positive.

[CarlKnightNinja]

car battery charger

Gud day! Just wanna ask. Do we still be needing a battery to run the fan?

[aussie]

Gud day! Just wanna ask. Do we still be needing a battery to run the fan?

as far as i know, as the source you can have a battery, charger,
solar panel, or whatever that makes the fan spin.
i have not read about having to use a charger + battery.

in my case i want a charger and a battery, so that the source battery gets
charged during the day and at night when the solar is not working, will
run the system off the battery.
21V directly into the battery is a bit much and it would continue charging
the battery even though it might already be totally full.

[dR-Green]

Greetings. I just got the wires of the tri-filar CD/DVD drive motor soldered up and hooked it up to a single transistor circuit with a rectifier across the 3rd wire. It works, but will only start spinning in one direction, but it sounds VERY high RPM. Fastest DVD drive I ever heard Another problem is that the coil wires are all 1 ohm each, and it will only start up with the pot at 0 ohms or very slightly above, any higher and it dies. But due to the 0 ohm/1 ohm resistance it draws 3 amps (max I let it get to), and I had to turn it off within seconds because I could smell the wires/motor producing the smell of burning electronic components. So this one will need more work I think