Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[lwblack]

new

Hi all. New to forum. Took apart an old Atari floppy drive I had sitting around and discovered the drive motor has a frequency generator section of the motor. I sent 9vdc into the red/black dc input and measured the other two wires. Was getting 9vac. Am thinking this motor needs no alteration to work in the Bedini circuit? Thoughts?

[CarlKnightNinja]

Thnx 4 the rply Joit..

I bought already some parts, but i can't find the eq / ecg125 diode. Does it has a substitute?

[lwblack]

Thnx 4 the rply Joit..

I bought already some parts, but i can't find the eq / ecg125 diode. Does it has a substitute?

Actually, yes. 1n4007

[CarlKnightNinja]

ok. Thnx a lot

[Rockhead]

Could I be so dumb?

I have been building this step by step free energy device and I am close to the end, but...
I didn't realize this is a battery charger when I started and I don't see any batteries in the tutorials. My assumption when I started was this was an over-unity device that ran itself and produced a load. Evidently this is wrong? There has to be batteries in the circuit? Am I stumped because I need to put some batteries in the circuit and I don't understand the language of where and how they go.

I was so hoping to show my brother, the engineer, an over-unity device that didn't have any batteries connected to it. Powering itself and lighting a bulb would be good.

[Joit]

Hi,
But sorry, this Bubble will burst.
It dont runs Overunity, it is actually a starter Project for the Bedini type Circuits and radiant Energy.
There is a bit stuff to know about, like, that you have to conditioning first the Batteries you are using. This takes about 4 charge cycles or more. After that, they will charge up faster as the first times and get more Capacity.
When you have good Batteries, then they may wanna be able, to charge others up, before they deplete.
But there will be allways the Argument, "but you use Batteries at this Device, then it cant work" Well, even the Batteries are the Part of it, what store Energy.
J. Bedini mentioned, that you should use minimum 2 Batteries to charge up, that you can see a better effect, but i think, its more for his Devices, what are quite a bit different from the Coils.
But at last you can show him, that you can charge normal Batteries, what are labeled as not loadable, Button cells (carefully, they dont like much Amperes or they burn) and that they will have more Capacity, as they are labeled, mostly double from it, and its reals, i tried it at some Lamps, what last more Time as with Standard Chargers.
Also, that the Batteries do not heat up during the charge, they stay cold,
which is not the case in normal Charger.
Imhotep also lighted up some Neons with the 9 V blocks, what is kinda funny.
When you ask why this is so, you may dont believe supressing Alternative Technologies, others may do, with good Reasons.
When there would be cheap charger out what can charge all this Batteries again, what are usual trown in the Junk, who would cry most about it.
This 'refresher' what you can buy are way over the Price, they have not much more Parts in it as standard Charger, and you can bet, that the Batteries are done after 10 times charging
I got a couple Batteries, what i still charge since a half year for my Meters,
but more and more, the crap Batteries come back to the Market, which destroy herself after her date-of-expire.

[Rockhead]

Thank you Joit

Thank you Joit,
Your reply was somewhat hard to follow, you must speak a different language and it has gone through a translation program.

Interestingly, I originally was looking at Tesla's radiant energy device. I have plans of burying an iron plate in the backyard and stringing a length of wire in the trees to see what will happen. I have also been trying to understand the Tesla switch. On the surface it seems so simple but once I get into it I just can't quite understand.

Thanks again for busting my bubble.

[lwblack]

9v battery vs 12v

Never could seem to get my Imhotep type motor running using a 9v battery. I kept thinking something was wrong with the circuit. I took it apart and reassembled several times while performing all the checks on the transistor, pot, diode, fan resistances and all kept checking A-OK. Don't have a spare 12v battery so I decided to test it with my 12v deep cycle charger. My charger has a green led DONE light to let me know when a battery is fully charged. When I connected the motor to the charger it fired right up. But I noticed the DONE light will react exactly as the neon light will work. When I adjust the pot, the DONE light along with the neon will light up and give me a clue to what the motor is doing. I also noticed I can audibly hear the 3055 timing going on and altering as I adjust the pot. I am using a standard computer power supply fan situated inside the power supply case it came with but with the rest of the circuitry removed. I used the power connector for input + and input - and third leg is output + (since the neg of output is the positive on input). I drilled holes for the neon and potentiometer just below that cable connector putting everything of the Imhotep motor circuitry within that computer power supply box. As a bynote, I desoldered the old power supply circuit board giving me ample used parts for other projects(ie 12 vdc power from telephone line(see Free Energy From Telephone Line)). Later I plan on seeing if the 12 volt supply from the telephone line will power the Imhotep making the battery charger completely FREE energy. Will let everyone know how that works out. Cheers!

to Imhotep and the rest of this knowledge base.

[FRC]

Phone line

Where did you get the idea that a phone line is 12 volts ? It is usually around 42 volts with very low amps. What you are suggesting can be done. I have already been able to run an unmodified 12 volt computer fan from the phone line. In order to have it run continuously it took a capacitor bank of about 18- 20 caps hooked up in parallel. However one cap of the right size might do it. I have not had much success with the Imhotep fan so gave up. The caps I used were from old computer power supply's also 10v 2200 uf. The fan that worked best was 1.2 milliamp. Instead of using the fan I would like to have a way of timing so that there would be a pulsed dump into a battery. This would be
non radiant conventional charging. Another thing that might work would be the Imhotep Relay charger, but there probably is not enough amperage for that straight off the phone line. Good luck, I hope you can get it to work.

FRC

[lwblack]

Ok, I learned something interesting about this circuit. It's output is actually charging both the source battery while also charging the charge battery. How do I know this? I measure across the output and get a plus voltage. I ALSO see the green DONE light on the charger still lit up green too(meaning back voltage) while a battery is being charged. That is why it APPEARS the source battery is only using a small amount. It's actually using more than the final results dictate. It is being replenished with power but not quite at the same rate as it is sourcing the circuit. Interesting stuff going on with this circuit...

[FRC]

Yes

Yes, it has been stated that Bedini circuits do have some kickback to the source battery.

FRC

[lwblack]

Where did you get the idea that a phone line is 12 volts ? It is usually around 42 volts with very low amps. What you are suggesting can be done. I have already been able to run an unmodified 12 volt computer fan from the phone line. In order to have it run continuously it took a capacitor bank of about 18- 20 caps hooked up in parallel. However one cap of the right size might do it. I have not had much success with the Imhotep fan so gave up. The caps I used were from old computer power supply's also 10v 2200 uf. The fan that worked best was 1.2 milliamp. Instead of using the fan I would like to have a way of timing so that there would be a pulsed dump into a battery. This would be
non radiant conventional charging. Another thing that might work would be the Imhotep Relay charger, but there probably is not enough amperage for that straight off the phone line. Good luck, I hope you can get it to work.

FRC

With a bridge rectifier AND a voltage regulator you can pull it down to 12 volts dc. I tested my phone line and am getting just under 100vac across the red/green lines. If you only pull 12 volts from the line it will not interrupt the phone line. The phone company will never see a drop of 12 volts as a problematic situation and will leave it alone(as long as the phone is working). The added bonus is when the phone rings, extra current comes thru the regulator while the voltage remains the same(12 vdc with the way I plan on programming the output of the regulator). And I never said the phone line has 12volts. I said I plan on using 12 volts of a 100 volt line.
Also, that 2200uf 10v cap is most likely a vent cap. I got a bunch of them from that computer power supply that I desoldered into used parts. I also got a 120 volt bridge rectifier from it that is already sitting on a small board as a start for my phone circuit. The only other parts to get is the voltage regulator and two small resistors. Am contemplating smoothing the output with some 2200uf 16volt caps that I scrounged from the same place the fan originally came from...

[FRC]

AC

Are you sure it is AC current ? I failed to mention that I was only tapping a 12v
segment of the line. I used leds to take up the rest of the voltage.

FRC

[Joit]

Rockhead, i think you got more Problems with the Terms i do use, as to read it.
I will try to explain it a bit more. Conditioning from the Batterie means, it change the inner Structur, you could also may say formating, but the Crystals align different, as it is in normal Batteries.
Using minimum 2 Batteries as charge, means, you use one for to drive the Fan,
and place 2 in Serie at the Charge Side, so at total 3 Batteries.
I placed them in parallel, and they raised faster in Voltage as in Amperage. Therefor i think, they work better in Serie.
This 'Refresher' are pulsed Batterie charger, what you can buy at some Stores.

Some Fans dont work well with 9 V because they have either to thick Wires, or the wiring itself is a bit messy.
The Fans Imhothep got have one Coil at each Stator, that you can cut and rewire them easy.
There are a lot other Fans out, what have either Bifilar, trifilar, only One Stator or bifilar at 4 Stators.
Therefor they may do not work well, when you dont rewire them completly.

[lwblack]

Are you sure it is AC current ? I failed to mention that I was only tapping a 12v
segment of the line. I used leds to take up the rest of the voltage.

FRC

It is DC current while the ring is AC. Is why you need a bridge rectifier(for the ring current). A rectifier on DC current will do absolutely nothing while during the AC ring current it will alter it to DC(rippled)