Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[mbrownn]

Something that I believe the senior members already know: the brightness of the neon doesn't reflect on how well the unit will charge. My highest chargeing fans weren't the ones with the brighests neons.

The stacked design gave me super bright neons. So much so it burned out several of them at once along with the diode. It didn't charge very well.

If you are looking for speed of charge, Brian is correct but if you are looking for charge efficiency then the bright or super bright is what you are looking for as this is where you find the near 1 to 1 charging, especially at a C20 charge rate. It is also where there is little or no current detected in the output as most of the output is radiant.

Sorry to differ but we need to be clear on this.

[mbrownn]

The stacked design gave me super bright neons. So much so it burned out several of them at once along with the diode. It didn't charge very well.

I strongly encourage you to test this further for charge efficiency. Using the Basic circuit place the negative of your volt meter on the negative of your supply battery and the positive of your volt meter on the positive of your charging battery. This will give an overall voltage so what you would normally see is a rise in voltage for the first few mins followed by the voltage holding static or dropping only a few tens of milivolts over the next few hours. If your voltage continues to rise then you may have reached overunity electrically but this assumes both batteries are of the same capacity and all the measurements are acurate.

You did not make it clear what your input voltage is but such strength of radiant is encouraging . Remember that lead acid batteries like to be charged slowly, that is over 20 hours to get very high efficiencies. If you adjust your setup to charge a battery over 20 hours I think you will be very close to 100% efficiency of charging, then when you add the work done by the motor you may find you are in overunity. The fans are usually in the 15 to 25% efficiency range when run this way but when added to a charge rate of 90+% you can see you can achieve overunity. Ok it is boring that you have to charge slowly but the reward is quite exciting.

My charge efficiency at C20 was 97% and my motor efficiency was in the 15 to 25% range, allowing for meter accuracy of + or - 3% I must be in overunity. This is the thing that almost everyone misses, with the simple fan you have to include the work done by the fan to get into overunity.

Keep testing your stacked fan and post the results please

[cheetoz49r]

first time

I want to make my own charger as well but I watch a movie on youtube that his using a printer motor and I want to use that as well I want to wind my own rotor but I never done it. I watch the movie but cannot figure out how he wound the wire and connected them to the battery and wiring here is the link any help please thank you
Bedini High Voltage Without D.C. Power Supply - YouTube

[Almaz]

What's the best and proper way to setup fan coil? See the picture

[mbrownn]

I think you should try the original way first, go to post 1 in this thread.

[Almaz]

I've build my first SSG using 120mm x 38mm, 105cfm, 12v .66A 7.9W DC Motor. Each coil is about 3 ohms. I'm using to power the motor standard adapter 120AC to 12DC 1A. For the first test I used my Honda Civic battery Valucraft 51R-VL, cranking Amps 510. After 1h 50min I put in 0.1v from 12.55v to 12.65v. If the charge rate remains the same then I'd be able to put in 1v within 18 hours. Using my Fluke 175 meter and probing charging battery, the DC current is 30ma and AC current about 3 times as much as DC. I have a few dc adapters 18v, 22v and I'd like to know if I increase input voltage, would it increase charging/desulphation process? Now what would be the best way to increase charging/desulphation method? Second motor in parallel or different design such as Cmos, transformer, coil? Also I'd like to know if all my numbers are OK and similar to yours or is it worst?

[cheetoz49r]

I think you should try the original way first, go to post 1 in this thread.

I destroy 3 fans already trying to take them apart

[cheetoz49r]

I finally got the rotor and stator separated. now I don't have a pole on this motor. and I have two wire in one side and another 2 wire on the other side. should I just wrap each wire on the pole that I will make

[Joit]

In the middle from the Stator is a little Tube, its something like a cone. Take a Screwdriver or something similar what match into the middle, hammer it out, mostly it moves to the Backside, then you can easy take the Stator coils away from there. When you are done, put this little tube back.

[rvdude007]

Hello Imhotep,

The posts on my motor are inverted and soldered down into the circuit board. I can remove the circuit board which is not a problem. Can I also remove all the components on the circuit board and then use available holes to attach the 4th coil wire to and then solder the 4 out going wires to the bottom of the circuit board?

Also, do I need to attach any batteries at all to get this to power up??

Thanks. )

[mbrownn]

I've build my first SSG using 120mm x 38mm, 105cfm, 12v .66A 7.9W DC Motor. Each coil is about 3 ohms. I'm using to power the motor standard adapter 120AC to 12DC 1A. For the first test I used my Honda Civic battery Valucraft 51R-VL, cranking Amps 510. After 1h 50min I put in 0.1v from 12.55v to 12.65v. If the charge rate remains the same then I'd be able to put in 1v within 18 hours. Using my Fluke 175 meter and probing charging battery, the DC current is 30ma and AC current about 3 times as much as DC. I have a few dc adapters 18v, 22v and I'd like to know if I increase input voltage, would it increase charging/desulphation process? Now what would be the best way to increase charging/desulphation method? Second motor in parallel or different design such as Cmos, transformer, coil? Also I'd like to know if all my numbers are OK and similar to yours or is it worst?

The fan sounds like a good one. You can keep increasing the voltage but don't risk running the fan when disconnected from the charging battery. as long as the fan, transistor and pot does not get too hot you should be fine. The bigger the increase in volts, the more effective the charging and desulphation. Remember to adjust to the sweet spot for the most efficient charge. Using the AC setting you are probably getting a false reading, digital meters can be fooled by pulsed DC, especially on the amps scales.

The most efficient charge rate for lead acid batteries is C20, that is charge it over 20 hours. To do that divide your amphour rating by 20 and that would be the current required at 12v on the power supply. At a higher voltage you will need less but anything between C10 and C30 will be fine for general charging.

Your fan has a lower resistance than any I have and that should be good. I remember that using one of my fans i was at 12v 80mA input and only 3mA on the output but the output amps should be as low as possible while getting as high as possible spike in the charging battery.

If your charging speed is still too low you can add as many fans as you want or add a coil in parallel to the fan power coil but be careful not to overpower the other parts of the circuit, it is best to have a separate transistor and diodes for each coil. With slaved coils it may be the case that the fan will not run but if you can hear the coils the circuit will still charge.

[mbrownn]

I finally got the rotor and stator separated. now I don't have a pole on this motor. and I have two wire in one side and another 2 wire on the other side. should I just wrap each wire on the pole that I will make

You have to add a fourth post as shown in the videos

[mbrownn]

Hello Imhotep,

The posts on my motor are inverted and soldered down into the circuit board. I can remove the circuit board which is not a problem. Can I also remove all the components on the circuit board and then use available holes to attach the 4th coil wire to and then solder the 4 out going wires to the bottom of the circuit board?

Also, do I need to attach any batteries at all to get this to power up??

Thanks. )

Yes I do just that. you do need the batteries as it is not self powering

[Almaz]

Today I created another circuit for a smaller motor. First of all my specs: 2 transistors 2SC2625, Diodes 1N5008, Smaller diodes PR1507. All the components much faster and higher rating compare to original circuit. To power everything I'm using 120 to 12v adapter. Here is a problem. Using a single power supply I connected both motors to the battery (both transistors mounted on the same heat sink). The charging battery started dropping as hell and even going negative. Well I put a separate power supply for a second motor and now it works hmmmmmm. How come a single power supply doesn't work and dischaging "charging battery"? Even by disconnecting Positive power from a second motor, both motors are charging the battery. What's going on? Could it be a smaller motor got coils setups differently but they work fine individually?

I've got 2 pots for each motor and when I parallel both motors then one pot controls both motors and getting them out of sync. Probably for the same reason I can't get both motor to spin together while they are in parallel mode but just by twisting the smaller motor and stopping immediately, it starts oscilating (whistle sound). By using whistle sound from the motor without spinning rotors, I'm able to get exactly double current output and probably higher voltage. Charging battery voltage goes up. Just by using 1 120mm big motor and smaller motor, I'm able to push DC 100ma which is a lot (used Fluke 175). Since I don't have an osciloscope, can someone confirm if oscilating the motor without spinning the rotor gets double the output and correct waveform???

I guess you mean C 0.05 charge rate because C20 charge rate means charging/discharging 20 times more capacity in one hour of the battery capacity. In other words charging/discharging at rate C20 would only take 3 minutes to charge or discharge the battery.

output amps should be as low as possible while getting as high as possible spike in the charging battery

????????? I was aiming for higher current so what you are saying I have to do the whole thing opposite? I wish I had an osciloscope. By any chance can anyone provide an osciloscope graph Current vs Voltage.

[cheetoz49r]

Fan

I bought several fan already but I can't find a fan that have the metal post. every fan that I took apart are all plastic post and I'm having a hard time putting all of the post. Can someone please tell me what brand of fan should I use to get the one with metal post. thank you