Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

AWESOME!! would def like to see some pics or some vids of your masterpiece. I have found a really great deal online for these fans from newegg when you buy so many shipping is free it averages to about a dollar and some change a fan.

heres the link.

this really flew but the stators were a tough to get off and I had to strip the circuit board because there was no plastic post. But when I hooked it up the high rpms makes its fly and Im using it now to charge batteries.

[theremart]

RE Good deal...

AWESOME!! would def like to see some pics or some vids of your masterpiece. I have found a really great deal online for these fans from newegg when you buy so many shipping is free it averages to about a dollar and some change a fan.

heres the link.

this really flew but the stators were a tough to get off and I had to strip the circuit board because there was no plastic post. But when I hooked it up the high rpms makes its fly and Im using it now to charge batteries.

---------------

I have about 4 more of these ( I am a computer tech, and I have thrown power supplies away because some other thing went wrong with the unit, but he fan is often good.


Thanks for sharing again, this has ran all night, and is going to keep running

Mart

[aladinlamp]

Actually what I did is carefully take off the circuit board and left the wires on the existing posts.

Most of these appear to be dual phase coils, which means theres 2 outside end of coil wraps on two of the post that are already there and the inside wraps (beginning of the coils) on my versions were wrapped together on the third post.

If you take a magnifier and look at the three post that are existing you will see 2 wires on one of the three posts. (yes they are extremely fine, which is why a magnifier is a must) and i left the coils the way they were, cause they were already designed for these machines and if you look at the label you will see what kind of current they drew originally so you will know what kind of current to expect out of them.


Makes things easier. Some of these are bi-filier and some are single wound. That really doesnt matter , what does matter is one of the post will most likely have 2 wires on it.


If it does, carefully take a fine tip soldering iron and start to heat it taking care not to melt the plastic and unwind the two fine wires from that post and then gently separate them with the fine tip of the soldering iron, pay attention to your heat and if the plastic starts to get a little mushy where the post is, pull off and let it cool for a second and then try it again.

Once you get the two off the post and separated, wind one back on gently, if there is a 4th plastic post with no wire post on it, the easiest way to add a 4th wire post is to do the method on the film where you are just taking the diode and gripping with hemostats to absorb the heat so you dont burn your fingers and pressing it into the plastic.

I started a hole with a small drill bit glued into a plastic wire nut. and just started to turn it in the center of the 4th plastic support that had no post on it. that keeps it centered and you have a better chance of getting it right. Gently push with the hemostats as you are heating it with the soldering iron, just about 1/16th to a 1/8th inch into the plastic so it will be rigid.

And then clip it off at the same height of the other ones. This is the best method I have tried. Then wrap the 2nd wire you took off the post and wrap it around that one. now you have 2 sets of coils that were designed for that stator. Put a little solder on it, and add your wires using an ohm meter to check continuity. Let me know how it turns out.

HI

i have 3 posts

1st have 2 wires
2nd have 2 wires
3rd has no wire

where exactly should i cut them

thanx

[**~Imhotep~**]

check continuity

I have not encountered every coil made but i would carefully scape the ends

(be carefull , if the inside wrap wires (start of wrap) break and get too short you will have to scrap or rewrap or get another fan but you can get these for next to nothing from computer repair shops bad power supplys or radio shack or new egg etc.)

and then check continuity with an ohm meter you will probably find continuity across two of them , that will be one set of coils then check the other two and they will probably be your other set then prepare component leads as instructed on vid to prepare the extra post and you are set good luck.

[theremart]

HI

i have 3 posts

1st have 2 wires
2nd have 2 wires
3rd has no wire

where exactly should i cut them

thanx

Wow yours does not look like mine. yours does not seem to have metal posts.... You will have to come up with a way to separate each wire to a certain post. Perhaps hot melt glue? You might have to get creative on this one.

What i did was to cut one of the wires off the post. Note, before I did so I looked to see which of the wires would be easy to unwrap on of the wires was buried in wire and would not of let me unwrap it.


After I cut the wire, I carefully unwrapped the wire from the coil till it gave me enough wire so I could wrap it back on the coils to the new post. The new post was a resistor wire that I found fit very snug into the hole of the 4th post. I applied heat to the post carefully till it melted it. You might want to try superglue or other means of securing it, but this worked for me. As mentioned before it is very easy to over heat the post.

Then to strip the wire so I could solder it to the post I burnt it with flame again careful not to damage the rest of the wire or coils. This I wrapped a few times to the post. One thing to note is you want to post to be even height with the other posts. I found out the hard way....

Then after all the wires were mounted I then tested with the ohm meter to find which wires went to which coils... If it does not give you an ohm's then it is not connected to the other coils.

I had to work today, but will be putting up a video of my completed results. Maybe tomorrow.

I want to thank you once again for the simple to follow instructions, I have wanted to do this project but was always afraid of the small wires.... Not anymore

Mart

[**~Imhotep~**]

This is what its all about, Helping each other thank you for your kind words. Excellent solutions and excellent sharing. I will be looking forward to seeing the video. Yay!

[ren]

Another thing to consider guys. Your right in saying all fans are different. I have just finished helping a friend get his fan up and running and the difficulty he experienced at first was actually due to a different magnetic configuration to the fan I have modified.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Thank you! thank! you thank you!!!

I cannot do this alone. Seeing the senior members with lots of skills jump in and lend a hand its the best day of my life. Ive been looking to make a contribution to the energy community for a long time and it just makes me feel so good that i brought something new to the table.

More adaptations to come.

[ren]

Heres a pic of a 24 volt fan cap pulser Ive built. The 555 is protected by a voltage regulator. Enjoy!

[elias]

Impressive Charging

Hi Imhotep,

The battery charging you did in 5 minutes is quite astonishing. Could you tell us how much current your fan was drawing? while charging that battery. Did you load test your charged battery to see how much power can it deliver?

I am currently downloading your videos, so that maybe I'll make a cooler+battery charger for this summer.

Thanks for sharing your results.

Elias

[**~Imhotep~**]

At the time I did the experiment i did not monitor the current draw. As far as doing the load test on the battery. When i first started the battery was almost completely sulfated. After about 3 weeks of charging and discharging the battery with the 3 fans it reached about half capacity on the load tester. the capacity seems to be getting better with every charge. But the speed of the charge has not increased. I am still charging and discharging the battery at this time.

I am currently experimenting with 12 fans in series and parallel arrangement to increase both voltage and current. I have not reached any conclusions on that as of yet because I am not finished, I just received the additional fans in the mail

The 3 fans themselves had an original capacity of combined 1 and half amp approx. Each drawing .5 amps before the circuit was taken out. I was astonished too, thats why i filmed it. But at the time i was not sure what direction this would lead me so i did not take all scientific measurements.

At this time I am monitoring current draw and voltage on all my endeavors. I was also astonished at the levels the capacitor reached on the discharge, that one i had 6 fans hooked through parallel with 3 of them running and 3 of them running through the coils but not running them selfs. 1 of the 3 that was running would self start, all them had neon glow even tho 3 of the fans were not running. You may be able to see that in the film.

More data is coming in every hour.

[riccardom70]

At the time I did the experiment i did not monitor the current draw.

It compliments !!! You can insert the complete blueprint with the electronic component ? moreover the variable resistance that value has? Thanks



Excused my English, but are Italian.

[**~Imhotep~**]

potentiometer

It was a surplus potentiometer from my electronics repair shop for older tv's which was easy to mount because of the twist tabs, 2000 ohms was the value.
l left it on the unit because under different size batteries, I wanted to vary the back emf -coil collapse voltage (more resistance = less current draw from source supply but less work output fan rpms but increased output voltage charge rate. )
There are no blue prints but the schematic is on the video ,download the video, the instructions to download with firefox browser and download helper links should be in this forum post.
Then pause and screen print if you would like to.they are in hi-definition so
should be clear on larger screens. and print well. good luck on your experiments

[riccardom70]

It was a surplus potentiometer from my electronics repair shop for older tv's which was easy to mount because of the twist tabs, 2000 ohms was the value.
l left it on the unit because under different size batteries, I wanted to vary the back emf -coil collapse voltage (more resistance = less current draw from source supply but less work output fan rpms but increased output voltage charge rate. )
There are no blue prints but the schematic is on the video ,download the video, the instructions to download with firefox browser and download helper links should be in this forum post.
Then pause and screen print if you would like to.they are in hi-definition so
should be clear on larger screens. and print well. good luck on your experiments

Hi , what is the electronic component (indicated from the arrow) near the diode valve?

Thanks

[InTheField]

Hi , what is the electronic component (indicated from the arrow) near the diode valve?

Thanks

That is the battery being charged. It is reverse polarity of the supply battery shown to the right. The charge battery negative terminal is to the top and shown connected to the positive from the coil and the positive from the supply battery.

Imhotep for this thread. Very interesting.

I have a bunch of "stuff" lying around, so I thought I'd put one of these together. I did have to pick up a supply battery. I got a 12V 7aH lead acid battery for my supply battery. For my charging battery, I took a dead battery out of a power mower that I have. It is a 12V 17aH lead acid battery that has been "dead" for over a year. It won't even keep the mower running it has so little charge. When I put the voltmeter on it, it had ~2V and negligible current output (in other words, put a load on it and the current went to 0A, the volts went to 0V). The supply battery measured at 12.88V.

On an interesting side note... You mentioned that one of your 3 would self start. At first, I had to fiddle with things, but at one point I put the lead for the charging battery (after the diode) back to the emitter and found that when I do that, it would self start. Currently, it has been running for maybe 1 1/2 hours (give or take) and the supply battery voltage is now at 12.73V and the charging ("dead") battery voltage is reading 6.99V.

A few things I've noticed:

1) The charging battery voltage seems to vary from reading to reading over the course of a few minutes, and the readings aren't always going up. The readings have been as high as 8.24V and fallen down into the 5V range. Still pretty impressive considering that this was a "dead" battery that I thought I'd have to replace this year because it wouldn't hold a charge from a conventional charger.

2) Varying the potentiometer value only changes the fan a minor bit. But, if the value goes over ~2k by very much (I had a 5k pot on hand, so I used it) or if the value drops down too much, the fan stops. I haven't measured the values (yet). There is a small increase in speed when reducing the value of the pot, but if you weren't "looking for it", you wouldn't notice. It does increase the drain on the supply battery, but doesn't seem to increase the charging rate to any noticeable degree. Also, the fan speed isn't a high rate. I'm not concerned with that, just mention it because of comments that folks have made about the high fan speed. It has a speed at which it wants to run ("resonate") and that is where it seems to be the "happiest". Sooooo, that's where I'm letting it run at.

3) When I picked up the supply battery, I also picked up the neon bulb. (I don't have that kind of thing "on hand") They only had red... no amber, but I didn't think that would make a difference. Also, you don't mention it, but they said Radio Shack said they only carry these little neon bulbs in 120V... I was looking for a 12V bulb... The 120V bulb looked like what you have in the video (except red ) so, that's what I got. (all that explanation just to mention that...) on the neon bulb... Nothing. No light, no nothing... I do have some LEDs laying around and noticed that putting one across where the neon bulb is causes a huge drain on the circuit (and in short order will stop the fan). Using a smaller LED, it doesn't stop the fan, but will also cause a drain. Either will light when put in parallel with the charging battery, but the larger one is pretty dim. From what I've read, I kind of expected things to run better with additional loading, but I haven't seen that at all. After the LED tests, the charging battery read at 6.55V (down from the 6.99V previous reading).

I realize that using the 12V 17aH "dead" battery as my very first charging battery was probably ambitious, but things seem to be working... even if not quite as "efficiently" as others have seen.

Thanks again... Maybe I'll pick up some of those cheap NewEgg fans. Can't beat $1.29/fan. I have the rest of the parts (except for neon bulbs ) to build at least 5-6 more of these... It doesn't take that long either. (It's just that these eyes are getting too old to see those fine coil wires )

Thoughts, comments, suggestions?