Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[**~Imhotep~**]

I am editing and compiling results and conclusions and uses for this implementation (imhotep) of the bendini fan with troubleshooting tips and currently simultaneously working on two other inventors mysteries which i have solved and am in the process of proving and revealing and will be releasing more movies soon.

i will be submitting more schematics on this thread soon on paralleling output on this fan to raise power, today hopfully.
happy experimenting

[Pcurrius]

Schematics

This is revised schematic with more details. (this is not a bendini monopole motor ssg)

Hello Imhotep,

If the coil is cw-ccw-cw-ccw the poles of the coils aren’t N-S-N-S respectively? I don’t understand why the two top coils are writted with a plus.
What’s the diference between this type of winding and the monopole type?
If I would like to hook up another battery despite of the neon, should I take out the neon an replace it for the battery and that’s all?
If you want to make it more clear, put what type of diode are you using, the voltage of the neon bulb and the voltage of the source and the charge. Then I think would be great for who will look the schematic.
Thanks much!

[elcman]

i am in the process of expanding the capabilities of these units rapidly (paralleling and switching) will be uploading more soon i have heard of that swapping method and will be trying soon, that would be the best method .
some batteries are suppose to not like being switched that way, but i will test that for myself and give it a try i can get all the stock(batteries etc.) i want .

I'm very interested in your results here. The switching seems to be a good way to keep energy flowing ... but also operating the fans in parallel and so forth, I'm... very interested in how that works out. I've been looking at things... and wondered if there was a way to operate them serially? (Though it doesn't seem at all compatible since each Bendini is self-contained...) If you could get them to phase opposite each other, it ... ? Here's my lack of experience showing.

I'm low on funds so I'm slowing down on buying so many components until I can get a makeshift lab set up for all of this equipment. I've found my work was moving their R&D department... and a lot of surplus electronic equipment will be dumped since they're moving to a much smaller space. God, I love this place.

So, I might be able to get my hands on an old oscilloscope and a bunch of soldering stations for free. And... likely, a ton of case fans as well. Wee!

you can use any power supply from from swich mode 9 volt to 35 volt i would guess but switch mode pwr supp must have load all the time, the built in fans usually on computer supples furnish that . so i would leave the unaltered fan inside if you try.

The system I was looking at actually used a ~10 Ohm resistor to create a constant load as well as an LED to show that the thing was switched on. It looked to be a pretty ingenious design also allowing for a variable voltage add on... the one thing I'm not sure on is the amps.

I have been doing a crash course on electronic components to make sense of schematics. I really need to study electric and electronic "theory" ...

Before it teaches me.

i use a variable supply 0-36 volt, i redesigned it to have current regulation as well as voltage regulation .

Yeah, that's what I'm shooting for. I'm hoping this will do the trick:

How to Convert a Computer ATX Power Supply to a Lab Power Supply - wikiHow

Then:

How to Add Variable Voltage to Your ATX Based Bench Power Supply - wikiHow

Exciting! And a little dangerous. Just need some additional components before I can attempt it.

have fun and post data (share) results

You've got it! In fact, a strange thing happened last night...

I've been reconditioning one battery at a time with my one functioning fan. Of course, it's taking a while for it to work properly, so I switched over to a car battery I found in my garage over the weekend. It immediately took a charge, so I let it go for a while, coming back often to check for heat, "bulging" and other signs of imminent danger. The battery accepted a charge and immediately started showing results.

Finally, I'm getting somewhere... I had my little drill battery hooked up to it and running for a couple of hours. This is the strange thing... this little drill battery has awful capacity. It usually lasts about 2 hours.

Last night, I went and checked on the battery 6 hours later... and it was still purring along while attached to this car battery. Was I correct in assuming that the source battery was also being "conditioned" while acting in the source position due to the charging negative being line with the source positive connection? For some reason, it really is lasting longer... even when charging off of its normal charge base.

Needless to say, I was stunned at that result.

[elcman]

One quick question, Imhotep?

I'm looking at the diagram and I have wired mine ... differently?

The fan, I assumed, the direction it turned would create a positive currently left to right. In thinking that... well, let me attach a diagram.

(See Attached)

I checked to see which ones would give me an ohm reading, then I did an inline + to - assumption between those two based on which way the fan turned.

I am getting results. I'm curious if it is just a fluke? Let me know...

[**~Imhotep~**]

this is parallel out config for two fans it, raises potential volt and current.
i have paralleled 6 together no problem .
i am working on 12 output
the current is limited to the total potential of the fans original current draw ,which is on the labels on the back of the fans, added together per # of fans used.
the series is another story, because the circuit would have to run through the coils of each fan in series , i will be working on that version soon (reduce circuit components etc...) could become quite powerful possibly 8 to 16 poles then parallel a couple of them.

happy experimenting

[**~Imhotep~**]

One quick question, Imhotep?

I'm looking at the diagram and I have wired mine ... differently?

The fan, I assumed, the direction it turned would create a positive currently left to right. In thinking that... well, let me attach a diagram.

(See Attached)

I checked to see which ones would give me an ohm reading, then I did an inline + to - assumption between those two based on which way the fan turned.

I am getting results. I'm curious if it is just a fluke? Let me know...

as long as it works if you series 2 or more you will have to pay more attention to geometry of windings . but on many in parallel as long as it outputs volt of correct polarity it good to go

[**~Imhotep~**]

the coil part of these schematics is generic (just indicating positive end of wrap and negative beginning of wrap and where on schematic bendini wired his ssg)
the diode off the collector will only let pulses go one way .as far as where your posts end up it might be different but as long as the end of wrap (outside of coil goes to the area indicated on schematic you will maximize the use of the coil
collapse voltage which is 100 times the voltage input yay) thats where you get the freebe.
which in the orig. circuit boards they prevent that voltage from getting out so you can use it.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hello Imhotep,

If the coil is cw-ccw-cw-ccw the poles of the coils aren’t N-S-N-S respectively? I don’t understand why the two top coils are writted with a plus.
What’s the diference between this type of winding and the monopole type?
If I would like to hook up another battery despite of the neon, should I take out the neon an replace it for the battery and that’s all?
If you want to make it more clear, put what type of diode are you using, the voltage of the neon bulb and the voltage of the source and the charge. Then I think would be great for who will look the schematic.
Thanks much!

monpole is bendini design maximizes successive pulses one way, simple explanation
ask him for detail (in his books movies etc)
to deep for post
as far as taking out neon ,you can but that would be your experiment .have at it .
when i first did this experiment ,i can show you many ways this will not work
but it was not a waste because i learned from the failures.
the neon is for your transistor to be protected from accidental charge battery disconnection or swapping batts etc..
as far as more detail thats a good idea i will include even more detail next time

[**~Imhotep~**]

the current draw on these fans are very low, when you hook them up to a charge battery the current draw drops even more ,so the source battery will sometimes last days according to the source capacity of the source battery.
in this config. the source batt. is not conditioned as far as i can tell.
because conditioning is cold spikes going in to batt. and that is on charge side of circuit.
as far as being stunned at the result i never would have put so much time in something if i was not floored at the results sofar.yay!
have fun learning and expanding your power of knowledge

[**~Imhotep~**]

elcman, check out the free energyfreebe i just posted. A nice little gadget to play with, with your fan.

[Bodkins]

Been watching the progress great work **~Imhotep~**
i have got 4 fans coming 24v dont now the amps
may need support **~Imhotep~**
cant wait to see the ossilascope on this stuff
Take Care

[**~Imhotep~**]

just leave a message im popping in and out 24/7 to check on messages. Support will be there.

[Rayaz]

Just wanted to share a bit of info I found in the overunity forums for you Imhotep and others researching this.


Quote from post of someone who produced a larger Bedini device from this thread: Bedini replication in Germany

Most interesting: This machine will also produce a lot of HHO gas when it is run with a water electrolysis cell. the current then drops to 200 mA. There is definitely a connection between the bedini pulse and the Stan Meyer water splitter.

[**~Imhotep~**]

I was astounded today at the fact that when i repositioned the arm for the ev gray mechanical oscillator. the tip had came off the points arm as i was repositioning it for use on the mechanical oscillator and spot welded it back on with the bendini/imhotep motor. discharged through a 250volt 680 uf capacitor by positioning the tip that had came off through a clip lead off one of the cap leads and the point arm underneath the point tip off the other lead of the capacitor and when it reached 140 volts tapped the bottom of the point arm, with an insulated set of needle nose pliers and spot welded it just fine solid. im truely shocked at the abilities of this motor, just though i would share that you can add spot welding to one of its uses. lol. heres some pics of my spot welding job.



its as strong as factory job. yay

[**~Imhotep~**]

Just wanted to share a bit of info I found in the overunity forums for you Imhotep and others researching this.


Quote from post of someone who produced a larger Bedini device from this thread: Bedini replication in Germany

excellent find. Im getting ready to try series coils 8-16, 2-4 bendini/imhotep chargers and this information will be useful. thank you very much. I could probably use just one transistor and save on components and wire wound potentiometer is a great idea. I will prob use this idea when i do the series parallel versions. Again thanx excellent find

the hho is another thing im gonna add to the capabilities and knowing it drops the current is a more excellent find so much in one day!yay