Free Energy At Last Step By Step Must See

[Joit]

Hi splay,
Nice Video about the Fan, looks nice

No, put both in in Series, behind, the Resistor and the Pot, you can still adjust with the Pot at the same time.

And this Fan, not at any circumstance, it maybe runs lower.
But i think this 17 Amps will be hard at the Border for the Transistor-
But you can build a similar Motor way cheaper,
you only need some Magnets and wire a bifilar Coil.
Connecting it to a Circuit is not that hard at all
And maybe you can get one for few Bucks from Junkyard or from second Hand.
Sepiroth did make some nice Videos for this.
Spending 200$ is a lot imho.

[splay]

Joit Hi,

Thanks for the video compliments, its my little baby now, my first bedini.

I had a look at Sepiroth's video and also looking at the circuit diagram I think it looks easy enough, probably easier than taking a fan apart.

Have you seen this one YouTube - JR-1 BEDINI MOTOR I like his setup, the Newman is a different cricuit though.

The journey has begun

Splay

[Inquorate]

Splay

Nice fan setup. If you get it into self oscillation it won't make so much noise :-) also, the closer the components are together, and with connections at right angles, wires straight, the better it works :-)

[Joit]

Hi, No i didnt see this Video before.
But Output Power depends allways at the wires you use.
Thinner Wire gives more Voltage, but lesser Amps.
The Newman Motor is some different, i think, there is a Dc device inside the Coils. Commutator with Coils, the Bedini runs by repell the Magnets.
The Newman motor is controversial, he claims to have OU,
much did replicate it, but didnt have the same success.

But a very simple Bedini Motor can be made with 2 buyed Coils, place them together, a Wheel in the Middle, or a Fan, where the Magnets are glued on.
Connected to the Circuit it will work.
But the Motor dont makes much Torque, the Energy is generated at the Coils and from Bemf.
No way for now to get the Power for it from the Fan back :=)

[splay]

Guys,

There is something then I would like to do and thats create an automatic switch between charge and source.

Has anyone done this?

I imagine the source will drain to a certain level and then a relay or so kicks in and switches the batteries so that the charge now becomes the source.

Has this been done before?

Any pointers?

Splay

[splay]

I was checking out some charge regulators and I found this one that handles two batteries...

www.SolarEquip.co.uk - Flex 7A Charge Dual Battery Charge Controller / Solar Regulator

That has got me thinking, can the power be diverted back to the source battery while it is running the circuit?

Thanks

Splay

[Inquorate]

Back to source

Nope, can't charge a battery that is being used. Reasons of chemistry.

[splay]

Thanks Inquorate,

I posted before really thinking about that one

Here is what I have been trying to figure out.

I have two 12v deep cycle batteries 30ah.

What confuguration would I need to charge these as fast as possible?

Fan amps and source battery amps?

Cheers

Splay

[Inquorate]

Fast charge

Logic predicts higher amps in higher charge..

So several fans in parallel would do it. But if you make several fans (i made two, then moved on) perhaps try them being run in series, and charging in series, or series run, charging parallel etc, and time voltage rise from same starting point of charge battery. Also, time drop to starting level voltage using light globe as load, for each setup..

And share the results!

That's if you have the time :-) Alas, I don't.

[splay]

Inquorate Thanks,

Hmmm, time, waits for no man.

This will have to be a long term plan, if in theory it will work then I think it is worth the time investment.

What about if there was an inverter load on the batteries draining all the time?
This would probably mean more fans to compensate I presume.

Splay

[splay]

Just another one Im thinking.

Looking around youtube, I am seeing different variations producing some high voltages into capacitors and such.

Why cant any of this voltage be passed back in to replace the source battery and the unit become self running.

Hope this is not another silly question

Splay

[Joit]

Just another one Im thinking.

Looking around youtube, I am seeing different variations producing some high voltages into capacitors and such.

Why cant any of this voltage be passed back in to replace the source battery and the unit become self running.

Hope this is not another silly question

Splay

It is, anyhow

First, Batteries dont like it, when they are charged and discharged all time same time.
Usual you need to load them complete, and then use.

Then, Voltage dont means Power, you can have high Voltage, ie,
i can make with 2 silly Coils at a Fan with a U-core 40V, but no ampere.
But the Ampere is, what you need, to get Power.
There is a calculation anywhere, how you can count Joules, and what is usable Energy from it.
High Voltage and less amps takes more time to load a Cap.

There been attemps, to put a ne555 timer in, to charge and discharge Caps or Batteries. it is like switch the connections and charge once this one, and the second one.
But i dont know, what happend to these.
One replication is the Window Motor, it are Coils what are without Core around the Rotor.
This one is a selfrunner, but less did replicate it now.
And the Energy what is feeded at charge is to slow, that why you cant use it.
i tried by myself to see, what i can get from a Coil close to it,
had a Cap across, and the cap did allways load some lesser, as the Coils did need.
It has something to do with Lenz Law also.
I wish, you would be an Electrician
There are a lot things to understand, what happens with the Circuit and the Current.
But we are going slightly offtopic, maybe we should move back to your first thread :P

[splay]

Hi Guys,

I spent the weekend setting up a BiFilar coil.

I wrapped a 32swg and a 26swg together and tested the polarity by hooking the battery up to each wire and seeing which end attracted the magnets on my new rotar.

From what I guessed, I marked the end of the coil that attracted the magnets as positive and the other end as negative.

I hooked it up to my Bedini circuit which is laid out exactly as this diagram...



The diagram is for a fan version but I am presuming it is the same for a bifilar? Is it different?

It started osciallating. I spun the rotar and it nothing happened, the oscillation stopped.

Really dont know what it could be only that there may be a different bedini circuit for a bifilar coil.

Appreciate any help.

Splay

[Joit]

Hi

No, the the Circuit is fine, same as original, just some more illustrated.

Usual most use bifilar Coils, when they self build one. That should be ok.
What Coil did you make, a new one, or did you rewire your Fan?

At Coils its like this.
There is a outer End, and a inner start.
The Coil works usual best, when you lead Plus from outside to inner End.
Thats why the outer End from a Coil becomes the Plus, and Minus is inside.

And now something to think :P
At a Bedini Circuit, you get 2 Coils, like your bifilar.
One is the Power Coil, and the second the Trigger Coil.
The Powercoil get Current from Plus from the Coil, so from outside to inside.
The N- Pole of a Electromagneticfield is allways opposite where the Current goes.
So, Current goes into your Powercoil, but the Triggercoil get the Signal earlier from the End from inside, the Minus.
The Circuit only works mostly, when you connect the Coils in opposite Way,
Actually, you only need to switch the Ends of one Coil and it should mostly work.
The N pole will be there, in what direction the Current goes.
Then you can find the end at your Coil, what will repel.
But it will work in attraction mode also.
Only for me, my Coils stuck mostly at the Rotor, when they are in Attraction.
But an easy way is too, just put a Magnet there, or a Compass.

You can try also , to adjust the Rotor to the Coil, and put short Power on it, that you can see, if your Coil got enough Power for repel.

[splay]

Joit,

Thank you. Its very strange though.

In my video, YouTube - Bedini Motor you can see where I attach the fan to the board, the following setup is how I have it..

Black = PC -
Red = PC +
Blue = TC -
Green = TC +

It works fine with the fan but when I hook up the BiFilar in the following combination...

Black = PC - Outside Wrapped Wire
Red = PC + Inside Wrapped Wire
Blue = TC - Inside Wrapped Wire
Green = TC + Outside Wrapped Wire

This doesnt work on the BiFilar.

I put the multimeter across Black PC- and Red PC + on the board an I am not reading a voltage, which I presume I should be, I do get a reading If I connect...
Black(PC-) and Green(TC+) = 11.50v
Red(PC+) and Green(TC+) = 11.05v
Green is positive.

I think I may have been just lucky with the fan. I dont think the circuit I have is correct, but I have checked and rechecked it using this pic http://imhotepslabs.freeforums.org/d...file.php?id=13