24 volt cap pulser battery swapper

[ren]

Hi check your pins on your opto isolator. You need to be using the right ones on the front end. The led needs to flow through the optos pins on one side and into the resistance and back to ground. If its not hooked up right you wont complete the circuit and the led wont light

Is it possible that your led is blown? I used a 12v led, Im not sure if thats essential or not. The led is like a diode too I think, it needs to be installed the right way. Sounds like you have had luck anyway, its probably just how you have your opto isolator wired up. Look up a tech sheet for the part you are using if it isnt the h11d1. Trace your finger from your output pin on the 555 through the led and then through the h11d1(or other) into the resistance then back to negative. Once you get that going you can figure out the other side.

By the way. I put that led in the circuit when I was learning it for a visual reference, it probably should be taken out once you are competent with the configuration.

[selamatg]

Sorry Ren,

The positive LED I put to 555 #3 and the negative LED to - Battery (joint to 555 #1) just to make sure timer work ok.
Thank for your advice, I will try as you said to make sure the OPTO working too

By the way, how to check H11D1 still good condition? I meant to make sure Pin 4 and 5 doing the job as should be.

[ren]

the negative leg of the led goes to the h11d1. Then it flows out through the resistor to ground. ground in this case can be the negative leg of the 555 timer. Or hook it up to the negative of the little cap you put over the 555s terminals, doest matter too much.

I guess you could check to see if your h11d1 circuit is working by putting another led on the other pins. Look at the h11d1's configuration. The left hand side is where we put our input signal through. Pins 1 and 2.

The right hand side is opticallly connected to the left hand side, when the signal flows through the left the base of the transistor on the right is triggered. This is why it is called an opto isolator, it effectively isolates the source components (the 555 in this case) from the load, which in this case is the scr switching the high voltage off the capacitor/bridge.


You can wire up pins 4 and 5 like any npn transistor. When your signal flows through pins 1 and 2 your npn transistor should fire/complete the circuit.

[selamatg]

Thank you Ren,

Thank you Ren for your explaination.

Finally I can figure out and tested my OPTO, I found three already broken and the other still work ok.

[theremart]

Testing the h11d1

the negative leg of the led goes to the h11d1. Then it flows out through the resistor to ground. ground in this case can be the negative leg of the 555 timer. Or hook it up to the negative of the little cap you put over the 555s terminals, doest matter too much.

I guess you could check to see if your h11d1 circuit is working by putting another led on the other pins. Look at the h11d1's configuration. The left hand side is where we put our input signal through. Pins 1 and 2.

The right hand side is opticallly connected to the left hand side, when the signal flows through the left the base of the transistor on the right is triggered. This is why it is called an opto isolator, it effectively isolates the source components (the 555 in this case) from the load, which in this case is the scr switching the high voltage off the capacitor/bridge.


You can wire up pins 4 and 5 like any npn transistor. When your signal flows through pins 1 and 2 your npn transistor should fire/complete the circuit.

Ok so can I take a 9V battery on pins 1 and 2, and put an led on pins 4 and 5 to test the h11d1? Thanks for helping us out Ren!.

Or can I use it in a SSG circuit to test the h11d1 ( replace the transistor with the h11d1)


mart

[ren]

From my understanding Mart something like that would work. But remember the h11d1 is rated for low ma, 500ma I think. I think it doesnt have a strong output too, and that is perhaps why another npn transistor is used to switch on the SCR. I could be totally off the ball here I dont know.

I would plug the + terminal of a 9v battery to led/pin one, and put a 300 odd ohm resistor out of pin 2 going back to the negative of the nine volt. You could hook up 4 and 5 to a really small load, like another led or tiny grain of wheat bulb etc. The whole idea here is just to see if it switches. I havent blown one yet, I think they are pretty sturdy as long as you buy the little cradle for it and arent soldering directly to the legs.

Hook your tiny load up from 12v positive to collector (pin 5?) and then hook emitter (pin 4?) to negative of same 12v battery. It should be like an sg hookup except the load replaces the coil. When the 9v on the front end is a complete circuit it should trigger the base of the back end and your load should receive power. I think an even easier way to check the back end is just to trigger pin 6 to test out 5 and 4.

If anyone has a better method please post it up

[selamatg]

H11D1 simple tester

Hi Mart,


I made simple tester for OPTO H11D1, Maybe you are interest.
The both Led must on if The OPTO still good condition. other ways is broken.

Hope that will help.

[mlindeblom]

Hi Mart,


I made simple tester for OPTO H11D1, Maybe you are interest.
The both Led must on if The OPTO still good condition. other ways is broken.

Hope that will help.

You will want to add some current limiting resistors unless the LEDs have built in current limiting. 330 ohms is a common value for this series connect resistor.

[selamatg]

Yes you right,

The resistor is not on that schematic, or you can change the led with 12V bulb anyway. I use simple schematic software, I can't find the bulb on the component list.

Thanks

[Kingman]

Opto Tester

Selamatg, I want to let you know that I built your Opto tester and it works great!!!!! I was able to test my 4N33's and 4N35 opto-isolators before I put them in my 555 timer circuit just to be sure that they were working correctly! I made mine on a proto board so I can keep it in my tool box. The next thing I want to build is a simple 555 tester and also incorporate and SCR in with it so it can test the 555 and SCR at the same time. I used an 8 pin cradle because I didn't have a 6 pin cradle available to pop in and out the IC chip. Good work Selamatg! You don't by chance have a 555 test circuit?

Thanks so much!

ThereMart, Have you considered using LATCHING relays in your battery swapper circuit? The cool thing about a latching relay is you do not have to hold power on the coil in the relay to hold it in a state of NC or NO. You just pulse the relay to change it from one state to another. I will be using this sceme to build my battery swapper in conjuction of using the circuitry in the UPS such as alarm triggers to change a relay state when the primary batt. is running low on charge.

Stephen
***Do the thing and you will get the energy to do the thing!***

[theremart]

RE: latching relays...

Selamatg, I want to let you know that I built your Opto tester and it works great!!!!! I was able to test my 4N33's and 4N35 opto-isolators before I put them in my 555 timer circuit just to be sure that they were working correctly! I made mine on a proto board so I can keep it in my tool box. The next thing I want to build is a simple 555 tester and also incorporate and SCR in with it so it can test the 555 and SCR at the same time. I used an 8 pin cradle because I didn't have a 6 pin cradle available to pop in and out the IC chip. Good work Selamatg! You don't by chance have a 555 test circuit?

Thanks so much!

ThereMart, Have you considered using LATCHING relays in your battery swapper circuit? The cool thing about a latching relay is you do not have to hold power on the coil in the relay to hold it in a state of NC or NO. You just pulse the relay to change it from one state to another. I will be using this sceme to build my battery swapper in conjuction of using the circuitry in the UPS such as alarm triggers to change a relay state when the primary batt. is running low on charge.

Stephen
***Do the thing and you will get the energy to do the thing!***

Hi,

I considered it, but since I have 2 of them built already, I am not really wanting to change my design. My next step is rewriting the software so I can do only 2 or 3 sets of batteries instead of 4.

Yes it would take less power, but the relays as I recall are more expensive.
And I put the watt meter on this and it only draws 1 watt of power.

[selamatg]

555 test circuit

Hi Stephen,

Good if you happy with the circuit...
Basically I'm not the expert with this electronic stuff, So far I'm learning from the internet too...LOL
I have fun with this new hobby..specially when knew how the component work...

Here is the 555 tester circuit, I found this circuit from the net and edited a bit.
Hope will help.

Selamatg

[Kingman]

555 Test Circuit

Selamatg, thanks a bunch for the schematic for the 555 timer. I'm going to build it like I did your opto tester plus do a modification to add the SCR and output that to drive a LED to show proper function. On the 555 timer circuit I'll used a 150K pot so I can adjust the duty cycle.

When using the 555 circuit the one thing I'm concerned with is the length of the off time when dumping caps into the battery. It seems like to me the off time cycle doesn't need to be that long. I agree with Seph in that it is desirable for a very short time to dump the caps into the charge battery like a few miliseconds. What happens in the SG while the caps are dumping and you are still having coil charge and collapses going on? I wonder what happens to the energy created during the capacitor dump cycle?? That might be a question for Peter L.

Stephen

[selamatg]

555 Circuit

Hi Stephen,


You can put additional diode parallel with R2 ( Pin 2/6 goes to cathode and Pin 7 goes to anode)
Here the link I learn from.. 555 and 556 Timer Circuits

Selamatg