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  • Originally posted by broli View Post
    I kept thinking and thinking and thinking. This motor is really genius! I came to the realize of using an super simple oscillating LC circuit/tank. To be more exact using the magnetic field of the coil without interfering with it so it can keep oscillating back and forth.



    I think Peter's motor can be made to run without any energy at all, even though he's already covering that part already. But I believe you can make a close to perfect oscillator by cooling down both the coil and capacitor to become superconductors without any resistance.

    Yttrium barium copper oxide - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    This way the setup will oscillate back and forth and the rotor speed will depend on the frequency of this oscillations. Once started you barely need to touch it. Just make sure you don't get near the saturation point of the iron and seal up the super conductor with liquid nitrogen up good. your rotor will spin and spin and spin and you can forget about it .

    If I made any stupid assumptions please correct me.

    Hi Broli,


    You may be interested to know that NASA has done some work along these lines with the switched reluctance motor.Heres the work Im referring to.


    Performance of Switched-Reluctance Cryogenic Motor Tripled



    -Gary

    Comment


    • @jetijs,
      How is you motor coming along? I scrapped the 2-rotor, 2-stator idea and I decided to make a 3-rotor, 3-stator setup with 30 degree offsets. I want to make a hub motor for my Electric Moped. My moped's motor is rated at 1.5Kw, so I want to see if I can make an attraction motor with equivalent tourque output for less power input. I still don't know how to make drawings in AutoCAD I'm learning though. Maybe I'll just put up the crude drawings so you can look at it and tell me if you see something wrong with it. Cant wait to see your progress!!

      Comment


      • Hi Archer Newlun
        Thanks for your interest
        I just got my magnet wire today and I am only now starting to wind the coils. Everything else (except the circuit board and timing mechanism) is already done. The air gap will be 0.08mm on each side.
        A 3 stator/rotor combo will of course deliver more power, but it will also be harder to make, especially the timing. I am not sure you need that, because you can achieve 100% ON time with just two stator/rotor sets. Also three sets will make the whole thing rather long. Anyway, you should try that out
        Good luck!
        It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

        Comment


        • Should I continue with the 2 core motor and have a 45 degree offset like yours? I wanted to make my motor about 8 inches in diameter, and 6 inches long. I'm having 1 stator and rotor being made at a professional motor builing shop. They are using M19 silicon steel. Thier website is Proto Laminations' Electromagnetic Web Site, if you want to check them out. Also, since my motor will be a hub motor, the motor should work with the coils on the rotor, and the stator spinning around the rotor, right? Do you have any suggestions for maximizing tourque output while still getting decent recovery numbers? Thanks in advance for your insight, as you have the most perfect example of this motor that I have seen yet.
          Last edited by Archer Newlun; 01-17-2009, 03:40 AM.

          Comment


          • By the way, How many degrees are your rotor and stator faces?

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Archer Newlun View Post
              Should I continue with the 2 core motor and have a 45 degree offset like yours? I wanted to make my motor about 8 inches in diameter, and 6 inches long. I'm having 1 stator and rotor being made at a professional motor builing shop. They are using M19 silicon steel. Thier website is Proto Laminations' Electromagnetic Web Site, if you want to check them out. Also, since my motor will be a hub motor, the motor should work with the coils on the rotor, and the stator spinning around the rotor, right? Do you have any suggestions for maximizing tourque output while still getting decent recovery numbers? Thanks in advance for your insight, as you have the most perfect example of this motor that I have seen yet.

              Hi Archer,


              Could you give me an idea of how much Proto laminations is charging you and would you be willing to show us a crude drawing of your motor concept.I am also considering having a machine shop make some laminated pieces up for a very simple design concept that I have for a motor.Anyways thx for the link as this may be helpful for me.


              -Gary

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Archer Newlun View Post
                By the way, How many degrees are your rotor and stator faces?
                Hi Archer
                The design I am currently working on has 70 degree wide stator/rotor faces.
                I am glad to hear that your cores will be made in a professional shop. Will they just cut the laminations for you or will they make all the complete cores? If they are willing to make complete core and you won't have to bother with gluing them together, then I suggest to use the smallest lamination thickness they have, because this will increase the efficiency. Currently I am working with laminations of 0.35mm thickness and this is a thickness that is still good to work with, but anything thinner and the work with these plates becomes so much harder. So if they are willing to make a complete core set for you, then these are some great news. Do you know about the costs of such service? I would like to know.

                About the design with the coils on the rotor. I would not recommend that, because this would be much more harder to do and my current design is already hard enough to build. I mean you would need to use brushes to deliver power to the rotor coils. Also you will have to use a different design than mine if you want to use coils on the rotor, because if you use my stator/rotor design, then when the rotor will be just between two stator poles and it will need to fire, then it will be attracted to both stator poles in the same time. So to solve this you would need to decrease the angle of the stator/rotor faces down from 70 degree, thus also increasing the overall OFF time and inertial movement. So I think that it would be better to use a design similar that mine and just modify the shaft somehow so that you can use it on your moped.
                Last edited by Jetijs; 01-17-2009, 03:49 PM.
                It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                Comment


                • Jetijs, I think for Archers design he intends on the rotor being stationary, still it will be tricky getting the wiring out through the motors shaft. But he couls cut a small keyway in the shaft extending under the bearings, or go thru a stationary motor end plate.
                  Last edited by Beshires1; 01-17-2009, 05:02 PM.

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                  • A little update.
                    One set of coils is ready:

                    It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                    Comment


                    • I will receive an estimation on my rotor/ stator this week when I give them the diameter and thickness of the core. I will post as soon as I receive the results. The rotors for my design will be stationary and the stators will rotate around them. Also the center shaft will be hollow and stationary also to allow the coil wires to leave the motor and connect to the circuit. My motor will look similar to yours, with the exception being that my rotors will be longer to hold the coils.

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                      • Jeti,

                        What do you think of this design? I want to have 2 cores with a 45 degree offset. Since my design will be based on a hub motor, The rotor (Stator on your motor) will have minimal material and the stator will contain the coils. I have attached a crude picture of what it would look like. Let me know what your thoughts are.
                        Attached Files

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                        • Archer, looks good, but the stator lamination outer parts should be wider, at least 1/2 as wide as rotor width so that the magnetic flux has no resistance. I mean something like this:


                          Also, are you sure that you want to use 45 degree per pole? That means that each set of stator/rotor will be ON for only 90 degree per revolution. If you have two sets, that will be an overall 180 degree on time. If a full revolution is 360 degree, then that means, that the overall on time will be only 50%, but for maximum torque you need the ON time to bee as close as possible to 100%. So to get 100% ON time with your current 45 degree per pole design, you need to stack at least 4 stator/rotor sets together where each is offset by 45 degrees. That is not very practical.
                          It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                          Comment


                          • Another update.
                            All the coils are now ready. I will now hotglue them on the stator and assemble the motor.





                            Thanks,
                            Jetijs
                            It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                            Comment


                            • You make it look so easy. Very nice setup you made there.

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