Electric Motor Secrets

[Peter Lindemann]

Epoxy and Clamps

Thanks lighty
I will try that on some spare plates

Jetijs,

Remember that your last stator ended up being glued slightly out of alignment. So, it is very important to glue the stator pieces together exactly right.

I recommend that you build a jig to hold all of the pieces between two flat plates of steel or thick aluminum. Mount four guide posts to the bottom plate so they go through the mount holes of the stator pieces with very little clearance, and on into the top plate. This will keep all of your stator pieces in alignment. If you use an epoxy, make sure you use some sort of "release" compound on the guide posts or you will never get the stator out of the jig after the epoxy hardens. A silicon or Teflon spray can work well in this situation. Spray the guide pins multiple times and let the silicon dry completely before use. These guide pins should not be threaded, so they provide a uniform positioning reference for each lamination in the stack.

Use a slow acting epoxy so you have enough time to coat and place each lamination in the stack and clamp the jig tight before the epoxy cures. After you clamp the stack tight, wipe off as much excess epoxy that is squeezed out as you can before it hardens. The more you can clean up the edges before the epoxy cures, the easier it will be to finish later.

Think each step through and build all the necessary tooling to make it right the first time. Make sure the guide pins can release from the mounting plates independently from the stator stack in case your "release" compound doesn't work perfectly, and the guide pins have to be pounded out later. Cover the top and bottom of the mounting plates with "release" compound, or wax paper, so the epoxy doesn't stick to them.

Test the system completely BEFORE you apply the glue, and make sure everything aligns properly. Don't be in a hurry. This is a very important procedure and it must be done 100% perfectly, the first time, for the motor to work well with a critically small air-gap.

Once this is done, you should be able to chuck the stator piece into your lathe and using a ceramic cutting bit, carefully re-surface the inner diameter (that faces the rotor) to produce a perfectly uniform curvature.

A similar procedure should be followed when gluing the rotor pieces together.

Well, that's all I can think of for now.

Keep up the great work!!!

Peter

[Jetijs]

Thanks Peter,
Those are some very good suggestions
Jetijs

[Schpankme]

If you use an epoxy, make sure you use some sort of "release" compound on the guide posts or you will never get the stator out of the jig after the epoxy hardens. - Peter

Extra Hold Hair Spray works terrific for an epoxy release agent and is very cheap.

- Schpankme

[lighty]

Extra Hold Hair Spray works terrific for an epoxy release agent and is very cheap.

That spray might or might not work depending on the sort of epoxy used. There are chemical separators available that are made specifically for use with various epoxy compounds. And they're cheap too.

[illchemist]

Acetone is ideal for epoxy removal.

[Schpankme]

That spray might or might not work depending on the sort of epoxy used. There are chemical separators available that are made specifically for use with various epoxy compounds. And they're cheap too.

Lighty,

I'd prefer if you ran a simple experiment to discover for yourself if Extra Hold Hair Spray could be used as a cheap substitute as a release agent.

- Schpankme

[Peter Lindemann]

No Personal Attacks

Lighty,

Do you normally spout-out about things you clearly know nothing about; or is it your inability to experiment, which over rides your common-sense to remain silent, until such times as you can provide an informed opinion, from a position of knowledge?

Your first act should have been to run a simple experiment to discover for yourself whether a simple cheap release agent could be made from Extra Hold Hair Spray. Your second inquiry would have been to investigate the ingredients of both the hair spray and the commercially available release agent mentioned, and compare the common ingredients. Your third and final act would have been to post the results identifying your findings.

- Schpankme

Schpankme,

Thanks for your suggestion about the cheap epoxy release agent idea. I, too, wish people on this forum would run more experiments and ask fewer lame questions, but in this case, I am asking you to refrain from any further remarks that openly suggest your negative opinion about another member of the forum.

There are some people here I would really LOVE to regurgitate my lunch on, but we are trying to build an archive about a really important improvement in electric motor design, even if most people so far are very slow to catch on.

Please help us keep the tone of this forum CIVIL and polite at all times. I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Peter

[Schpankme]

Please help us keep the tone of this forum CIVIL and polite at all times. I appreciate your help.

Peter,

I've repaired my previous post; and will keep my comments to questions or direct replies "on subject".

- Schpankme

[twoody]

Twoody,

Welcome to the group. Excellent work so far. The model you are building will teach you the truth about many things. Each design, and every design feature, functions as a specific "question" you are asking of Nature. The behavior of the design is Nature's "answer" to your question. And Nature NEVER LIES!

Peter

Peter

I have completed my windings. and have wired the stator with two sets of 6 coils. Each set of 6 has a resestance of 1.4 ohms. When I use 24 volt imput and ark to the windings my roter will turn about 5 times. But I am having trouble with the transistors. When I use my slot optical switch and send a low voltage on the base, the transistor turns on but I do not see the full 24 volts through the collector to the emitter. I could see in your video you have a neon light would this help? I can get the roter to just barly turn when I use the transistor but it will not keep the rotor turning. I have tryed a 2n3055, TIP31, and a high voltage nte2594. would the use of larger wire and sodering all connections make the differance as in your motor demos on youtube?

[Peter Lindemann]

Not Enough Drive Current

Peter

I have completed my windings. and have wired the stator with two sets of 6 coils. Each set of 6 has a resestance of 1.4 ohms. When I use 24 volt imput and ark to the windings my roter will turn about 5 times. But I am having trouble with the transistors. When I use my slot optical switch and send a low voltage on the base, the transistor turns on but I do not see the full 24 volts through the collector to the emitter. I could see in your video you have a neon light would this help? I can get the roter to just barly turn when I use the transistor but it will not keep the rotor turning. I have tryed a 2n3055, TIP31, and a high voltage nte2594. would the use of larger wire and sodering all connections make the differance as in your motor demos on youtube?

Twoody,

Without seeing your complete schematic, I am only guessing, but from what you have said, I assume you are trying to drive the base of your output transistor directly from the output of the optical switch. The problem in this situation is that the output current able to be supplied by the optical device is much lower than the current drive needed to fully turn on your output transistors. Check the spec sheets for each device and you will see what I mean.

Go back and look at the ideas Jetijs was working with to create one or two stages of intermediate amplification between the optical switch and the output transistors. This may help you understand how to correct your problem.

Of the transistors you mentioned, the 2N3055 should work fine once there is enough drive. The neon bulb only protects the transistor from being burned out IF the recovery circuit is disconnected during operation.

I do recommend you solder your connections.

Peter

[Peter Lindemann]

Thank You

Peter,

I've repaired my previous post; and will keep my comments to questions or direct replies "on subject".

- Schpankme

Schpankme,

Thanks for your understanding.

Ultimately, Free Energy is only safe to give to civilized people. Otherwise, it just becomes an easy source for unlimited warfare. The real battle for civilization is in ourselves. It is up to each one of us to CHOOSE civility at all times, even when our emotions dictate otherwise. Unbridled self-expression has some extremely negative social consequences.

As things seem to be going, it looks like Free Energy is about to be released on this Savage World. I expect it to be quite a MIXED BLESSING in the early stages.

Thanks again for your voluntary commitment to choose compassion over judgment.

Peter

[lighty]

I'd prefer if you ran a simple experiment to discover for yourself if Extra Hold Hair Spray could be used as a cheap substitute as a release agent.

It's simply that there are various epoxy resins to be used and not all of them act chemically the same way with other chemicals. Why risking the reduced strength or elasticity of the hardened epoxy if there are certified epoxy separators on the market that are very cheap? That's all- I meant no harm of offense.

[lighty]

As things seem to be going, it looks like Free Energy is about to be released on this Savage World. I expect it to be quite a MIXED BLESSING in the early stages.

Indeed a lot of things are being prepared to be released commercially. Free energy? Nope. Cheap energy? Certainly.

I wonder what next 10 or 20 years will bring us?

[elias]

Peace

Indeed a lot of things are being prepared to be released commercially. Free energy? Nope. Cheap energy? Certainly.

I wonder what next 10 or 20 years will bring us?

Free energy may not be available at mass scale until we learn to live peacefully and respect each other. But maybe free energy will bring peace too. it's the chicken or the egg problem.

[sykavy]

solenoid motor generator

Here is a relavant patent by a Davis. It has a lot of simularities with Teal and what we are trying to do here. Those more versed in this business like Lightly could give a comment:
United States Patent: 4019103

"An electromagnetic motor and generator is disclosed having a pair of solenoids wound on a cylinder, each of said solenoids comprising three separate but connected windings. A magnetizable piston is positioned for reciprocation in the cylinder and is connected to a rotatably mounted crankshaft. A commutator connected to the crankshaft and interposed in an electric circuit selectively energizes the solenoids to cause rotary motion of the crankshaft. An additional circuit means is also provided for recapturing electrical energy generated in each of the solenoids upon deenergization of the solenoid by said switch. "