Electric Motor Secrets

[Peter Lindemann]

Public Forum

hi every one

I am new and need help but, I ask , Did Mr. Peter Lindeman offer to jetijs only or for all human to share ideas and facts I really need to know, and I know the hadic for sam email or even sam men as I love to say

Dear mskhalil,

This is a public forum. You, and everybody else is welcome to the information presented here. If you are genuinely interested in these advanced electric motor ideas, I highly recommend that you purchase my DVD titled Electric Motor Secrets from my website at: Free Energy - Electric Motor Secrets, Bob Teal | Magnipulsion, Edwin Gray, Nikola Tesla, and other books & videos by Dr Peter Lindemann AND read this entire thread from start to finish. Don't ask anymore questions until you have done at least this much work yourself.

Also realize that this is a relatively advanced project for home experimenters, and that you will not be able to build a motor with a COP>1 without access to a machine shop.

Welcome to the forum, and good luck.

Peter

[theremart]

RE: Metglass

Ok , lets start together, i like V1.0 design, what would be than the best material for the stator magnetic core, can it be something like this ?, or anything else located on that site?>

POWERLITE FORMS
MAGAMP - Square Loop Cores

Thanx

Metglass is WONDERFUL stuff, but it will cost a FORTUNE to get I myself, amd starting I am not afraid to tear up, a vacuum motor. Once I have it mastered, then I will consider another direction.

Again, goto the first few messages and you will see the link to the motor Peter revamped..

Mart

[Eric]

hello!!

hi guys!
wow i've been gone for awhile and its seems like things are moving right along!
sorry for disappearing for so long Peter life "really" got in the way for a bit and i had to put aside my projects, lol i have since decided to do a few less favors for other people and a few more favors for me!
i finally have my mill up and running and i have found another local machine shop who is also working on an alternative energy device so they are a bit more interested in helping me.
since my first motor worked great. i am now lining up parts for the next one
coincidently my neighbor smoked the brushes on his weed wacker and inside was a motor just like the grinder motor jetis posted. since i dont have my lathe up and running right now, i am waiting for the machine shop to finnish a new rotor for that motor with a 5 thousands air gap tolerance. while i am waiting for the rotor i am trying to design my new circut. i learned a "lot" with my first motor so here is what i am after... i am hoping for some solutions from you guys who know a bit more about circuts than me.... right now i have a neat little basic PWM i cooked up with a 555 timer but i have much to learn to finnish my master plan
if you go waaaaaaaaaaaayy back to the beginning of this thread you will find where i posted my first motor idea. that type of a motor was also a good starting point for me. there is still a link somewhere back in the beginning to my personal site where i uploaded some pictures of it. i still am going to use the same type of adjustable optical commutator but the type of circut i am trying to add to the existing one needs to have the following characteristics

to give it a name i will call it the echo circuit

first we have my optical commutator with the 2 disks i can slide together to adjust the ON time.

second i wish to build a circuit that reads the ON time received by the optocouplers receiving transistor and "echo it"

i want to electronically adjust/control the number of echoes pulsed after the first mechanical one. be it 1 2 or 3 pulses or however many i need

in this circuit the duration of the ON time for all the pulses shall be adjusted mechanically with the disks. this gives us the advantage of controlling the duration of the ON time based on the rpms of the motor however,

the next little twist in my idea is i want to control the OFF time "only between the pulses" electronically via a POT. the off time should NOT be static, but instead be a percentage function of the ON time read in the first mechanical pulse. I.E. if the circuit is set at 100% off time than we would have equal parts on and off or a 50% duty cycle i would like a maximum of 200% adjustablity built into the circuit so i have the flexibility to go as far as 2 parts off for every 1 part on.

this circuit should allow me to control the ON time, the OFF time, and the number of pulses or echoes after the initial mechanical one giving me the ability to run 1 or a dozen pulses/echoes until the rotor is sucked in as far as it can go until it needs to be released and all power is turned off until the next pass.

i will continue to work on this idea on my own but any help would be appreciated. plus i "think" that if we iron this circuit out and publish it here it should be pretty universal to what ever motor you modify or build from scratch.

thanks!!
Eric

[aladinlamp]

Metglass is WONDERFUL stuff, but it will cost a FORTUNE to get I myself, amd starting I am not afraid to tear up, a vacuum motor. Once I have it mastered, then I will consider another direction.

Again, goto the first few messages and you will see the link to the motor Peter revamped..

Mart

Don't worry, i've read and seen everything in this forum thread.
Modifying vacuum motor might be great to test the concept and circuit,but i think materials and shapes are the key to success, thats why i want to find the best for this task.

[theremart]

Next step forward... Grinder...

Ok moving forward... attached is the picture of the grinder I picked up. it looks like it will work for Peters circuit, I now need to know the size of resistors in the circuit... Also I need to shave down the stator....



Mart

[Peter Lindemann]

This Will Work

Ok moving forward... attached is the picture of the grinder I picked up. it looks like it will work for Peters circuit, I now need to know the size of resistors in the circuit... Also I need to shave down the stator....

Mart

Mart,

Yes, this motor will work just fine. Just make sure it has an EVEN number of lamination sections on the rotor, and cut it down so that two sections are one each side. Remove all of the copper windings, disconnect all of the sections of the commutator, and remove the brushes. Then you'll be ready to build the new optical commutator and the rest of the circuit.

Good luck!

Peter

[Peter Lindemann]

Please Remove

Dear Mskhalil,

Thanks for the history lesson on your studies. It is excellent that you have studied these things, but actually, they are not relevant to this thread. I have already asked Aaron to remove these posts, and start a new thread with them. He's been extremely busy, and hasn't gotten around to it yet, but he will.

You could save us all the trouble by doing it yourself. No one has commented on your posts, because they know what's coming.

This thread is exclusively about topics related to my DVD Electric Motor Secrets, the work of Bob Teal, and other Rotary Attraction Motor designs and methods of producing a true "no back EMF" motor. You would know that if you had read the entire thread, as I asked you to do before posting anything else.

It is not about DePalma N machines, Bedini SG, Coler circuits, Cook circuits, or anything else. Strict compliance to staying "on topic" is enforced in this thread.

Please remove your posts, and start a new thread, or they will be removed anyway.

Peter

[Aaron]

posts moved

Hi Mskhalil,

Thanks for your abundant posts on all your experiments. I have moved your posts to a new thread here:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...periments.html

Please feel free to continue sharing your experience there.

If you decide to purchase Electric Motor Secrets and study it and then come and read through this entire thread, you will find that almost every question you could think of regarding this project has already been answered.

If you can contribute to the Bedini SG thread or other threads here, that would be great. There is a lot we can learn from each other.

[Peter Lindemann]

Thanks

Hi Mskhalil,

Thanks for your abundant posts on all your experiments. I have moved your posts to a new thread here:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...periments.html

Please feel free to continue sharing your experience there.

If you decide to purchase Electric Motor Secrets and study it and then come and read through this entire thread, you will find that almost every question you could think of regarding this project has already been answered.

If you can contribute to the Bedini SG thread or other threads here, that would be great. There is a lot we can learn from each other.

Aaron,

Thanks for everything you do to keep this thread on track.

Everybody,

I am leaving on a business trip and will not be able to participate in the forums for the next couple of weeks. If I don't answer your questions during this time, that is the reason.

I'll be back in June.

Peter

[mskhalil]

Aaron,

Thanks for everything you do to keep this thread on track.

Everybody,

I am leaving on a business trip and will not be able to participate in the forums for the next couple of weeks. If I don't answer your questions during this time, that is the reason.

I'll be back in June.

Peter

Dear MR.peter lindemann
Dear Mr Aaron
sorry for if have caused you any distraction

Mr peter have a successful trip and i hope you achieve what you are looking for from the trip

thank you Mr Aaron for your time to make mskhalil Experiments

but as i said befor i never buy on the net ,so how can i get the DVD
can any one of you send it by DHL carrier paid collect in cairo , EGYPT
thanks again and sorry

[theremart]

Stator modification

I have started working on the stator. What I have found it is was coated with epoxy . Well, i am going to try putting it in BOILING hot water to see if I can soften the epoxy. In the mean time I wanted to start planning how many segments from the stator I should cut out. Attached is the picture of the segments in relation to the coil. I am thinking either 3 or 4 segments should remain, but I wanted to get your guy's input before I made the next step. There are 12 total segments.

I have found Elias' schematic for a hall circuit. However, I have no clue where to look for the hall effect part that I will need for this circuit. Can someone direct me to what hall effect sensor I need?

Here is one I found, but not sure it will do the trick.
MicroPower E-Logger Hall Effect RPM Sensor w/ magnets - eBay (item 130222793944 end time Jun-14-08 02:21:36 PDT)

Mart

[lighty]

I am leaving on a business trip and will not be able to participate in the forums for the next couple of weeks.

Safe journey Peter.

[theremart]

Motor cha cha cha.

I have completed modifying the stator on the grinder and it is back together. I tried just one magnet for a commutator, and it turns one way, then turns back the other way.

YouTube - Video 35 First test of modified motor

So, tomorrow I hope to finish putting together the circuit that Peter has listed on his DVD. I will use 1K pots in place of the resistors. ( I am not sure what they should be at )

Anyhow I am just happy to see it turn a little. I have more work to do..... I wonder how many times Elias fires his vacuum sweeper motor each revolution.

It does seem that I need a much better way to fire the motor than the reed switch I used in the video.

Mart

[Eric]

lol, very interesting, ive never seen that happen with my motor, what i cant tell from the video is how you have the circut wired up and how long the on time is. if the power is still being applied after the is rotor completely sucked in it will stop rotor. perhaps whats going on is as your rpms speed up a little bit that reed switch isnt releasing fast enough so at a certain point in the acceleration the rotor is being grabbed back in the wrong direction so yes i would add anouther magnet but also play with the reed switch, try positioning it farther or closer to the magnet as well as to the left or right. eventually you should find a point where the reed switch releases the power "before" the rotor is sucked all the way in. usually i try to release the power half way into the stroke.
as for an alternative to the reed switch you can use an optical switch like i did. Eric's page, Photos
here is a link to photos of my first motor i did back about a year ago when the dvd first came out. one of the pictures is an electrical schematic you can use if you like. for the comutator disks i cut down a couple of canning lids, found the center of them for the shaft, chucked them into a dremmel bit in my drill, using the drill i spun the disks against a grinder wheel to make them round then i cut the windows in them and painted them black. i can slide both the disks against each other to close or open the window of the disk and i can set the beginning of the window to just where the rotor starts to connect with the stator pole.

hope that helps!!
Eric

[elias]

Anyhow I am just happy to see it turn a little. I have more work to do..... I wonder how many times Elias fires his vacuum sweeper motor each revolution.

Mart

Mart,

I pulse my motor 2 times each revolution. One interesting observation is the fact that the current draw seems to be independent of the voltage applied. More voltage makes my motor go faster with almost the same current draw around 0.53 A. And also to mention that I suppose that more voltage yields in more efficiency because of faster rotation + better recovery + more Radiant. The most interesting thing about this motor is the fact that it doesn't require cooling!! because it is self cooling and never heats up like conventional motors do, even under load.

Just be careful to not blow up your transistors, remember to always connect the output to a capacitor or a battery to absorb the spikes.

I currently use a 48v input which make my motor go upto 6600RPM. I even applied around 90v to the input which made my motor almost fly! at around 10000 RPM.

And also to mention that when I load it down to around 3000RPM, It draws around 1A with increased recovery. I estimate my recovery to be around 40-50% of the input applied, but who knows how batteries will respond!?

Hope you good results with your motor. I have yet to measure the output horsepower of my motor. even an overall COP of close to 100% is very very good!

Elias