Earth Battery SG

[juju]

ohh common

ground loop dont do that...

your posts are important to the forum!

relax, its never so bad as it looks...

[dragon]

coils and circuit tests...

I've played with the SF coils off and on, built several of them. They do some pretty interesting things. I've had thoughts similar to Bruce_TPU in that there must be a way to use the secondary coil to enhance the primary and visa versa... unfortunately all my attempts have yielded no real success in that area.

I decided to make some smaller SF coils as the material costs are considerably lower as well as the time invested in winding them for testing. The two shown below are 4 layers on a 3 inch long coil. One has been abused and repaired a few times. Both of the small ones will make 30-50 ma at .6 to .7 volts and easily runs a JT circuit.

Unfortunately, I've found they don't last very long. My larger coil would produce 150ma at around .7 volts - I was really impressed with it -- but after all the time I spent on it, it quit with one days use.... pretty disappointing... hasn't worked since and I really don't understand why. It's been appart, cleaned and back together again.... 1 day and it's done. These little ones seem to be holding up a little better but require a good soaking periodically to keep them going.

Out of curiosity I built AArons circuit with a bifilar coil for testing and it works quite well indeed. Without the kick back circuit it runs at 20ma on a 1.3 V battery and with the kick back in line it only draws 10ma. I ran it for about an hour with the battery start voltage of 1.327 and at the end it was bouncing the end number from 7 to 8 so there may be something going on there.. there is a scope shot of the circuit and the pics below of the circuit.... Great work AAron ! I haven't tried it with the SF coils yet....

The last pic is a drawing of a circuit I've been playing with using the stubble field coil. The main SF coil is unaffected by the addition of the toroids, the current running through the coils are transfered to the toroids. I also added an almost dead 1.2V battery in line to keep the voltage up at or around 1.5 volts through the JT. Interesting results... The toroids will drive several LED's each without adding any extra draw on the SF/JT circuit, input remains the same with or without the load on the toroids.... I may try to bring the toroid output back to the input but I don't expect there is any real power there as it doesn't take a bunch to light an LED.... Fun project though....

Edit: This circuit also works with a bifilar coil but you have to make a connnection on the back side of the circuit. The SF coils have a resistance between them which allows current to flow, a bifilar only has its capacitance.
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[Lidmotor]

Short lived Stubblefield coil

@All---
I am encountering the same problem that others are in regards to the Stubblefield coils living a short life---at least out of the ground. The one that I showed running the little disk rotor in my last video lasted less than a day. I dissasembled it and found that the zinc coating on the steel wire had broken down with the galvanic action and the coil simply rusted away until it shorted out. This was a big dissapointment.
I think that Dragon has the right idea about making small coils for testing. To get a strong enough magnetic effect on one to run a pulse motor though, the coil has to be quite large. To spend the time and money to build one that will last only a day doesn't make much sense.
If someone else has solved this problem please let us know.

Thanks,

Lidmotor

[Aaron]

@Groundloop

I would have been much better if you could have explained my mistakes
so that I could have corrected my errors instead of labeling me the way you
did. I have decided to leave this forum because of that.

I was naive to believe that this was a friendly forum, I was wrong.

I posted what the differences were - I spelled them out clearly.
I saw you and Bruce logged in and neither of you said anything about it.

Posting a schematic that is completely changed from what I posted and
putting my name on it is like putting words into my mouth. I initially asked
in one of my posts what was up with the changes and was ignored.
Therefore, I'm quick to nip a potential problem in the bud on the spot.

I cannot fathom how anyone could mistake anything in the circuit.
I not only drew a battery diagram, I spelled it out in English with BATTERY
and even put the + and - sign. I did the same with the cap.

There have been multiple attempts to sabotage what I have posted before.

I apologize if I jumped the gun. I can see it from your perspective, but
please see it from mine as well. This is one of the reasons I'm hesitant to
post some things that let the cat out of the bag on various items.

[juju]

magnesium

im so exited with this earth batterys, since i got my little star cactus and bring it to my room to test it, i feel inside me a new energy living here... last night it was like a dance floor before i sleep , the earth energy was pulsing like crazy and make me wonder, what vibrant and wonderful energy form manifestation!

anyone can tell me in what type of store can we find magnesium, what is the use of it? i would like to compare results with my plates.

my ambient energy receiver circuit, that is just a small thin pipe of aluminium, and an earth ground connected to a bridge rectifier, show me 8V output, but not any amperage... i can fill a cap of 1uF with 40/50 volts in a short period of time, but if i put it in paralel with my earth battery, it does not improve the output and instead of having 2V (EB) + 8V (AER) .. the voltage stays in the 2V. someone can guess why?

[sigzidfit]

Lidmotor,

If it's the steel wire that corroded thru, try stainless for a little more time. A welding supply should have it.

On CP systems in the oil field 800mV is considered optimal as the balance between galvanic action and rate of anode depletion. Again, those systems are steel cathode with aluminum/zinc alloy anode in a salt water electrolyte.

Either way though some thing gets corroded away and consumed. Which is why I'm suggesting a marriage of the NS self-generating electromagnet concept with the "crystal battery".

I'm currently reading through a thread on the Hutchinson crystal battery at the OU forum. I see there that jeanna has done some work on this. Perhaps she could comment on the subject?

Peace
PJ

[mk1]

@all

For those that the coil goes out by morning , you need to wind them tighter .
You can check for this by putting pressure on the coil and checking the meter .

@lidmotor

I would love it if you could see if there is any voltage that can be pickup from the core . Ideally enough to trigger the base on a joule thief .

The flowing movie show why i ask ...

YouTube - Трансформатор Зацаринина - разоблачение!



@all

Any one tried to simply connect a transistor collector to copper and iron to the emitter . may be the opposite depending on the transistor.

Then try either kick start the base , or connect it to copper with on , or to the core ...

Anyone tried making each layer it own battery , by having each layer wires cut then connect only one copper to iron per layer like regular battery in series , and check if the kick is still there .

Mark

[jeanna]

@juju,
I really know how you feel. If I awake at night, a short peek to one of my plant batteries makes me smile. I sometimes even say hi, because they seem to be alive.


@sig
thanks

@dragon
wow. Nice to see those coils.
What is your core on those and did you electric tape the core?
And, you have tried some interesting things.

@everybody,
Please remember that 2 wires [1Cu, 1Fe] of the stubblefield MUST stay open at all times.
If they are both connected to reed switches and take turns being open or closed, I am sure that is fine,
but,
you must maintain the weak galvanic current.

also, if you add a battery and possibly a cap, you will get bubbles (sounds like electrolysis) on the wires of the coil.
If you can figure how to cause electroplating to occur, then this might self-sustain.

I have 13 old coils, and they all lose a lot at first, but all of my coils still have something left. I am struggling to make a low friction rotor at the moment., because my best coil won't run the one I made yesterday.

the patent office MADE stubblefield call this galvanic and restricted his remarks to that. This is a very mediocre galvanic battery, but it IS an electro magnet as he says in his brochure.
Please keep the focus on the electromagnet part, or you are bound to be disappointed.


@Aaron,
I have been aware of many people getting restless and low resilience lately.
(I personally think our whole planet is getting beamed with anger vibes)
Please remember we are all in this together and those of us who do a service are only trying to help.
I know you know this. Groundloop is a good guy.
and, btw, I am glad I have the habit of downloading interesting things immediately.
I have a screenshot of that post with the description of how tesla got the timing, which is a question I have had for some time.

Thanks for posting it.

OK enough ranting from me!


jeanna

[Lidmotor]

Stubblefield coil driving a magnet spinner

@All
Here is a video showing how you can drive a magnet spinner on a mirror using just the Stubblefield coil and a reed switch.


YouTube - Stubblefield coil magnet spinner.ASF

I'm still stuck and don't know what to do from here on. At least this shows another way to switch the coil. I rewound my coil with fresh wire to make this video and shortly after the video the power started going down and I could no longer spin the magnet. It is running a Joule Thief nicely right now though but I expect that to also stop within a day.

@Mk1----I have not seen any voltage off the core unless it is shorted out but I understand what you are looking for. We should be able to self trigger this but at .3 volt and 10mA (that is what mine end up at) you can't do much.

@sigzidfit----I will get some stainless steel wire at the store today and try it.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[dragon]

@juju,

@dragon
wow. Nice to see those coils.
What is your core on those and did you electric tape the core?
And, you have tried some interesting things.

jeanna

Hi Jeanna - the core is a low grade steel ( 1008 ) this is an 8% carbon. As close as I can come to pure iron locally. I could actually anneal it to remove the balance of carbon content but that takes time... I get something in my head and start grabbing and making parts. They are covered with electrical tape then the rest of the wind is just like in the patent. After winding the the smaller one to test AArons circuit with regular wire I realized they are wound ( and wired ) just like tesla's pancake bifilar. Interesting stuff...
________
The Cigar Boss

[mk1]

@lidmotor

Thanks for your answer , if its gone by tomorrow try to wind those wire insanely tight , i got the same problem and it is fixed now , i don't think the rust is the issue but i still have not tried galvanized steel wire . To test the theory put more tape over it , after soaking the material seems to take less room then when you wind it.

@all

Those of you that have long core maybe one inch of it empty for either a jt base coil or secondary the power impedance will be quite different then on the regular secondary.

Mark

[Iotayodi]

Unfortunately, I've found they don't last very long

zinc coating on the steel wire had broken down

This mystery has to be solved first if a working coil is to be made! There seems to be some vital information missing here.

From what ive read a coated wire thats pitted,the galvanic breakdown is faster. A thinner coating is on the pit itself which I guess accelerates the process.
Having the coil externally is subjected to more heat and flowing air. 2 identical coils should be made with one in the ground for testing coated wires. 2 plain iron wires should also be tested in this manner. Ns used plain iron wire. Aluminum wire may not have that big of problem but its galvanic current is way lower than iron.
To all with coils made I would start experimenting with different non coated iron wires. If a high iron content wire breaks down this fast then the primary coil may have to be in the ground.
Heres another thought. Seeing how the Earths magnetic field is weaker and this coil was put in the ground, try weaker magnets if your using a magnetic rotor to see if the breakdown point lasts longer.

[jeanna]

Hi everybody,

I just want to answer a few comments.

I have tried using black annealed wire from the hardware store and it did well, although it is 19 awg and hurts to wind it. Also, because it is so stiff, it is very hard to wind tight and close to the copper.

I have used silk and I do think it works better. It allows the wires to snuggle up much closer even with the heavy annealed wire.

The highest voltage I got at the galvanic start of these with annealed iron was 0.38v, which is what you would expect.
This caused a little controversy on the ou forum because NS clearly said iron wire, not galvanized wire so I am sure he was dealing with a mere 0.3v.

I checked the mA provided by an old coil yesterday and got 800mA!! ****
I was astonished, but it is true.

That was a coil made on an iron pluming pipe which I had filled with welding rods.
I was unable to start my rotor, which might be the rotor and might be the voltage... it is hard to say.

@dragon, If you have the resources, it would be great if you could anneal one of those bolts to drive the carbon out and make a comparison with it. I might be that the core is more critical than the rest.

keep up all the good work everyone!


jeanna

PS to juju

anyone can tell me in what type of store can we find magnesium, what is the use of it? i would like to compare results with my plates.

I got mine from a store in colorado called the science company. - nice people.
It is very thin. They have the magnesium electrodes that look a lot like what your picture showed. the ribbon is long (25 feet) and thin and lasts a week to 6 weeks depending...
Firestarter magnesium rock is what I am going to experiment with next.

**** there is a short in the resistor.
the true mA figure is 1.2mA
My apologies!
j

[Iotayodi]

I checked the mA provided by an old coil yesterday and got 800mA!!

Excellent. Which Iron wire did you use on that one?

[dragon]

windings...

I wound the first few with the black annealed iron wire ( mechanics wire ), these didn't fair well. The little ones I used a galvanized wire and, so far their still going good. I'm actually quite happy with these little ones, I can make 3 of them with a 125g spool of cotton wire.

Fun little toys !
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