Earth Battery SG

[dragon]

oscillator

@all

Slightly off topic, I ran into some xenon flash circuits from all electronics that have a slick little single transistor oscillator that will drive a 13 watt CFL bulb with a single AA battery right out of the package.

These things are only a buck each ( FLASH ASSEMBLY | AllElectronics.com ).

I was playing around with the thing and found it quite interesting so I thought I'd share.... below is a picture of one driving the CFL bulb...
________

[jeanna]

laser/stub and mag/copper report

OK group,

I just finished row 3 on my new laser/stubblefield coil.
I think 2 rows a day might be too hard on my hands, and 3 is out of the question.
I am using 24awg or 0.51mm bare copper covered with cotton
and
19 awg soft steel fence wire. I include the word soft as it is on the label.
It might be soft and it is less stiff than the black annealed but this is very hard to move around.

So far so good. I have no shorts and around 0.7v .

------
The firestarter / copper battery is still only lighting a red led from the secondary. but I can light 2 in parallel.
I thought I could get the spike volts up, but the firestarter gives up its current very reluctantly.
So far the top spike is 1.47v but it is at 333khz!
I am wondering if the best thing would be a combo where the firestarter has some mag ribbon spooling off to the neg of the circuit and the copper wire is the positive.
The copper is 24 gauge.
I also have been fiddling with a small cap right at the secondary wires as a repeater.
When the memory cap was just filling up and the red led was barely on, a 68pF cap helped to steady it, and, I can even add a second red led in parallel (same direction) with the first, but not the white.
I also used the spool of red RS mag wire in series, but it did not help light a white led either. Maybe by morning the memory cap at the battery leads will be full and I can get the white to light.

That's all folks!

thank you,

jeanna

@dragon,
No, I am NOT trying to get rid of you, but there is a thread on overunityjoule thief thread by pirate
that has been going for about 2 years straight.
In the beginning of that thread some EE guys suggested to bill that he try the camera circuit.
Please come back here, but that thread has hundreds of pages (900) of posts and ideas and results and failures etc.
I was able to light one string of 35 led lights and 2 fluorescent tubes with that circuit. It is not efficient. It uses up most AA in 2 hours.
But, I wanted to understand it so I had to learn how to hand wind it and the rest is history...
There are good ideas and good information there.
(btw it is optimized for firefox .)
j

[juju]

...

galvanic batery is right...

light load or heavy load is the same... cause the power out is always the same to!

hugs

Also. This is considered a galvanic battery right? Any idea how long one of these will last (ballpark)? These guys are really neat, but they are just large "AA" batteries, right? The graphite/carbon rod is not terrible but it is also not the cheapest stuff in the world. Does putting a heavy load on a galvanic battery cause the reaction to speed up, thus "eating" the Magnesium ribbon away quicker?
Thanks

[redrichie]

Thanks JUJU. I looked up a galvanic reaction chart. One end is graphite the other is Magnesium. Probably no shocker to anyone here. Chart has Graphite starting on "cathodic" side while Magnesium is on "anodic" side. (cathode/anode + capacitor right?) Lidmotor has a fav video of a NS type configuration. Steel bolt/cotton/copper pipe. According to chart pretty close to each other, but obviously still producing reaction. Thinking of materials; a graphite rod like Lidmotor is using and an aluminum pipe might be dissimilar enough and sturdy enough to last a while in the ground. Is it possible to use a non-coated heavier ga copper wire (sold at lowes/home depot as ground wire) for this application? Just musings. Any thoughts?
Link: Galvanic Corrosion Table or Galvanic Series of metals in Seawater, Galvanic  Corrosion Prediction in Seawater

[juju]

copper

yes, you can use the copper positive.. and magnesium as negative!



EDIT: from my experiment, aluminium dont work as well.. but you can try it!

[FrozenWaterLab]

the Cook capacitor/coil. I will need to print out the Cook patent and study it to have a beter understanding as to what Dan Cook was doing with his invention. It could be posible that Tesla and NS had looked at this patent and drew upon it for some of their ideas, who knows?
I do however think that extremely dissimilar metals have their own frequency and maybe that is what Dan Cook was using to his benefit to cause the activity he achived in his coil design. It however sound like Cook had to jump start the action in his device but once it had started then it sound like the sky was the limit as to what electrical energy he could pull off of it. With the NS coil it is evident that Nathan was using galvanic action to get his coils started to producing the voltage he then was stepping up to run his devices.
We'll speak of galvanic action more later.

Kingman

Whats the Patent # Please
Tnks in Adv.
FrznWtr
Opps sorry Just found info in Post # 101 by Vortex
more info about Cook's device:
Electro-Magnetic Battery
LECTURE FOR BERLIN MEETING - HAROLD ASPDEN
Patent 119825. Patented Oct, 10, 1871

[jonnydavro]

Hi For those of you who are experimenting with Stubblefield type coils,this vid by Mopozco is worth a look.His setup looks very resistant to galvanic action and the coil fails when the cotton seperation layer has degraded or dries out but this could take months,years.Could a synthetic fibre be used?Hope this helps.Jonny.
YouTube - Adams Motor - "Stubblefield"

[Joit]

Easy Resource

For Magnesium and Graphite (same Potential as Carbon or Coal)
you can find both at a lead pencil and a sharpender, The mine is Graphite.

But the example from the Vid above looks quiet intereting also,
a clean building. just i think, that more potential is maybe more usefull.

[juju]

cool

thanks for sharing jonny!

so, you dont really need any iron/copper wire coil...just the tubes?

very interesting new aproach, and much more easy to replicate!

that guy mopozco rocks!

hugs

[redrichie]

First galvanic.....something

Tried a quick little experiment today. Stopped by my local retail hardware store. Purchased a 2 ft section of copper pipe 1/2". 1, 2 ft piece of steel threaded rod, zinc coated. And a 2 ft piece of raw steel rod. Used 100% cotton cheese cloth. Kinda like big gauze. wrapping the steel core with damp cloth, and inserting it into pipe I only read .23V on meter. With Zinc coated threaded rod I produced .8V. I then dampened cloth with a slight salt water electrolyte. No difference in either reading. this is my first Galvanic anything. So I am just making sure this is about right and that I did nothing wrong.

[juju]

redrichie

maybe you should use iron instead of steel...

have you read the amperage? this kind of batterys dont show many voltage... but good current compared to earth batterys...

[Mark]

Imho Zinc or aluminum inside the copper pipe should work the best. The tighter the fit the better. Put 14 in series and you should have around 12 volts.

Mark

[jeanna]

Tried a quick little experiment today. Stopped by my local retail hardware store. Purchased a 2 ft section of copper pipe 1/2". 1, 2 ft piece of steel threaded rod, zinc coated. And a 2 ft piece of raw steel rod. Used 100% cotton cheese cloth. Kinda like big gauze. wrapping the steel core with damp cloth, and inserting it into pipe I only read .23V on meter. With Zinc coated threaded rod I produced .8V. I then dampened cloth with a slight salt water electrolyte. No difference in either reading. this is my first Galvanic anything. So I am just making sure this is about right and that I did nothing wrong.

Please let us know when it stops working and how much you can do with it.
I was always disappointed with mine until I got some magnesium.

A meter won't give you much information.
Can you make enough of them in series to light a led?
This way you can calculate it.

If you have a joule thief, you can put it on this directly,
Also, if you add a cap (I use the memory super caps and others use regular super caps) you can get a light with less because after the cap fills, any tiny bit that goes above it will be available to the circuit.
Put the pos of the cap on the copper and the neg of the cap on the zinc or magnesium.

...and let us know.

jeanna

[redrichie]

Tried JuJu's suggestion and used iron. I had a piece of rebar that is used for concrete applications. Im pretty sure it is iron. wrapped it in the cheese cloth and got...not too much. .2V/1mA. I tried using a special "electrolyte" that was a bust also. Poweraid (the new one with some minerals and magnesium, LOL) does not do anything special.
I will try the aluminum next. I think Im just gonna have to get the carbon rods for this experiment.

[juju]

strange richie...

mopozco puts out 0.8 - 1V from its big iron bolt and copper tube... and the current its pretty high cause it can power a coil... that runs a motor.

then tell us about your results with aluminium...

hug