Earth Battery SG

[FrozenWaterLab]

Wow talk about thread killing (I post and everyone leaves?)
Oh well I'll try anyway.
I was wondering if anyone knows of experimental data for best material to use in the ground as well as size, shape, depth etc.
I know Aaron said copper + and galvi -, rods and I believe he mentioned mass.

I have a chain link fence around my property. I figure the posts might be good southern neg. rods.
They are 4' deep but encased in cement from 6" down to the bottom of the holes.
Anyone have any comments on this?
As I have looked at declination and angle of incidence on the Nasa website,
in my area (South central Alaska) 19w degrees from magnetic North and angle of 74N degrees from Equator (I presume) fit the bill for ruff placement.
But I look at a globe of the earth and a ray that intersects the center of the earth appears to emerge at a 74 degree angle from the surface
referenced from the equator. Dose that mean I would put the rods in at an angle of 0 degrees where I am? In other words perpendicular to level. (Straight up and down in my frame of reference?)
Copper is very expensive. was wondering if aluminum would be almost as good? Heard something about Carbon?
Apparently the further apart the electrodes the better? So are we talking feet or miles etc.
I was interested in data about any of this if someone could point out availability.
TNKS
FrznWtr

[Aaron]

Daniel Drawbaugh

Daniel Drawbaugh had one of his plates doped with coke on his
earth potential powered clock.

[jeanna]

Hi frozen,
I have had my best results when the 2 different metals are in a ring around each other and... very close like 1 or 2 inches apart.

I am also on the west coast but way farther south around 48th parallel. I was never able to get any results from the supposed correct angles, and when I went from the successful plant battery to one outside in the ground that did not work at all, I could easily see that the only difference was that in the planter, the electrodes were in a ring.
Then, when I made the outside ones go in a ring the joule thief circuit lit up and stayed lit for over 10 days. It was an interesting result.

The chain link fence might work, because zinc and carbon are theoretically far enough apart galvanically, but I would suggest that you get yourself some magnesium ribbon.
It is cheap and available from some science sites or ebay. 25 grams will make 50-100mA when put against copper and more with carbon. (I think Lasersaber's success with the carbon is because he found a porous rod.) But carbon is pricey compared to a copper pipe, which is what I am trying.

Please share your results and failures
All of it helps others.

thank you,

Oh and welcome!

jeanna

[jeanna]

Daniel Drawbaugh had one of his plates doped with coke on his
earth potential powered clock.

Hi Aaron,
I see we were posting at the same time?
Can you give me a link to Daniel's details?
Or, do you know how he doped the plate with coke. I guess that would be porous.

thank you,

jeanna

[Aaron]

Daniel Drawbaugh Magnetic Clock

Hi Jeanna

Here is the patent:
MAGNETIC CLOCK - Google Patent Search

You can download it in pdf there.

[FrozenWaterLab]

Hi frozen,
I have had my best results when the 2 different metals are in a ring around each other and... very close like 1 or 2 inches apart.

I am also on the west coast but way farther south around 48th parallel. I was never able to get any results from the supposed correct angles, and when I went from the successful plant battery to one outside in the ground that did not work at all, I could easily see that the only difference was that in the planter, the electrodes were in a ring.
Then, when I made the outside ones go in a ring the joule thief circuit lit up and stayed lit for over 10 days. It was an interesting result.

The chain link fence might work, because zinc and carbon are theoretically far enough apart galvanically, but I would suggest that you get yourself some magnesium ribbon.
It is cheap and available from some science sites or ebay. 25 grams will make 50-100mA when put against copper and more with carbon. (I think Lasersaber's success with the carbon is because he found a porous rod.) But carbon is pricey compared to a copper pipe, which is what I am trying.

Please share your results and failures
All of it helps others.

thank you,

Oh and welcome!

jeanna

Thanky Jeanna for the welcome
Yes I have been reading the entire thread and ordered some mag ribbon when I hit that post. Have it now.
The ring is indicative of a coil - Hum

Also ordered 2 - 2"X24" Carbon Rods
as well as - Carbon Graphite EDM Electrode Stock Material 10# bundle
http://www.cavlon.com/zcstore/images/3000/3979_03.jpg
Manufactured By: Unknown
Bundles of 10 Pieces
each plank 15 by 2 by .5 inches
~10 lbs, 15 by 6 by 2 inches each Gross In bundle

And -3 sets of 5 CARBON GRAPHITE BARS 3/4 X 3/4 X 8 FLAT BAR STOCK

Then 2 - 99.8% Pure Magnesium Round Stick Rod
Density 0.0628 pounds per cubic inch
1 pound (453 g)
Melting Point is 1202 F / 650
1 ¼” diameter x 12” long
Actual diameter is 1.310 actual length varies from 12" to 12 1/4" and actual weight varies from 1lb to 1lb 2oz.

I have found - Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

And - Make Your Own Machine To Wind Cotton On A Bare Copper Wire for STUBBLEFIELD COIL
Make Your Own Machine To Wind Cotton On A Bare Copper Wire for STUBBLEFIELD COIL
I will be shopping today to get parts to build this machine
I ordered last night - New White Colour COTTON Thread 6 Cones 800 m.
size 40 {The next I get will be - Each of these cones is beige and has 2500 meters (2750 yds.) of long staple, 40/3 ply, mercerized 100% cotton thread.}

I got a couple 1/4" carbon grafit rods also 18" long to try.

But I got alot of reading to do and I will post my Results as I go between the 3 brds

Have really enjoyed the thread
FrznWtr

[FrozenWaterLab]

Hi Jeanna

Here is the patent:
MAGNETIC CLOCK - Google Patent Search

You can download it in pdf there.

Hi Aaron
Perused the pdf and found a full description of the clock mechanism, The powering device and a reference to it being run on an Earth Battery.
But maybe I missed what you were alluding to. I saw no referance to the construction of said battery. ????
Did I total miss something here? (Prob. But I did go through it agine)
Can you elucidate on this for me please?
FrznWtr

[Aaron]

Daniel Drawbaugh

I apologize - wrong patent!
IMPROVEMENT IN EARTH-BATTERIES FOR ... - Google Patent Search

[FrozenWaterLab]

Coatings

Ok tnks Aaron for the proper link (Thought I was too tiered)
So yes he used a coke coating - But his presumption was to protect the plate from corrosion. Where as we have found this not to be a problem with the type of gathered energy, apparently protecting the plates or at least significantly slowing the corrosion process. Right?

Now Jeanne eluded to John having acquired a "Pores Carbon Rod" that gave him better gathering ability and then she thought, powered coke would be porous.
The Patent states "Powdered coke affixed with a Suitable Adhesive forming an enveloping-body".
Is it the Coke and not the copper doing the gathering, or both?
Mr. Drawbaugh had to use something that would last in the moisture of the ground to affix the enveloping body.
Which leads me to think of pitch or tar - both of which would be insulating in nature.
Would he have been able to mix an slurry with enough coke to have it conductive? What else could he have used? For that mater what could we use? Is their a conductive type Epoxy or non water based Glue ?
This also brings up the question of galvanic as opposed to teluretic or induced power.
Experiments have been done with same material probes yielding power differentials and the pioneers had plates separated by miles. This , I believe, proves their is something more than just galvanic response. Also my understanding is that meter readings improve as the soil dries out.

I have acquired 2 ea. 1/2" 3/8" and 3/16" copper rod's 3' long.
I will cut 1' from 1 of each to produce 1' - 2' & 3' rods or each for comparison.

On E-bay I saw some carbon graphite cloth that I have my eye on.
But that would require a pit or a trench, Not just banging it in. Wish my backhoe were running.

Going to have to crank up the O-scope I have and learn to use it:

Till Later
FrznWtr

[FrozenWaterLab]

Went out to dig around in the back.
No, no results yet just plot-in and plan-en
When I came back in there was my UPS "carbon delivery".
Wanted to share
(Think Copper is expensive)
I throught I'd throw my treadmill motors and PWM's I'll use to make a cotton winder out also.
They are about 1 3/4 hp ea. Overkill I think But speed controllable.

I also placed my copper rods and arc carbon's
and a Non-magnetic stainless rod I'll use for testing.
I intend to get some aluminum also and I have 1" X 1' magnesium Rod's coming.

I've gotten through page 10 on the NS EB thread and they are talking about a spread sheet for results on this kind of testing I wanted to do
Maybe most of it will be done allready so its back to studying then hopfully I'll be able to figure something to add.
Got a JT wound gotta get transistors and such.
FrznWtr

[Aaron]

free carbon rod

Frozen,

When I needed carbon rods 3/4 " thick maybe, I went to a welding shop
and they gave me one for free. Not worth ringing up for them. They sell
them by the box full. It was about 1 foot long of graphite I believe.

They have some rough textured copper foil wrapped around it, can be
easily peeled off.

[FrozenWaterLab]

Good idea Aaron and I do ask around for what I can.
We don't have lots of industry up here in Alaska most everything is shipped up and some things can be prohibitively priced.
I looked into sheet Copper - 3' x 6' 16-gage $680 for instance.
so with the USPS flat Rate and some of the specail shipping deals some Co. have with UPS, I can sometimes get a better deal ordering.

I have 3 boxes of those Air Arc rods.
Wanted to sharpen one both ends and sand one clear of copper as apposed to one with only one end sharpened and a pure copper rod same length, to see if the difference is noticeable.

I am reading other threads and learning some of this has already been done.
Hopefully I can replicate or notice where I can add to or expand etc.

Just read where Stubblefield might have been using mixtures of Pitchblende, salt crystals and other active metals on his hotspots. Do you know anything of this?
FrznWtr

[jeanna]

Hi frozen,

I was alluding to something lasersaber bought when I said porous carbon.
He said in a video (I think) that he thought the reason what he had was good was that it was porous.
I was given a handful of copper clad carbon welding rods, and they are not very good.
I think they could be OK, but they are 3/8 inch diameter, and so can hold only a very little magnesium. Using a 3 inch piece of this carbon, I made a mosquito type replication from lidmotor's idea. It continues to work on that tiny little stick, but for anything else I think maybe porous is best.

Your pic looks like lasersaber's carbon. What a monster that is!

I found at the hardware store yesterday that a 20 inch piece of 2 inch diam copper pipe is almost $40! So, that makes $50 for carbon look about equivalent.

But, today I made another cu/mg battery and it is putting out over100mA which looks like a fluke, and I must figure out what I did, because the other ones are still what they were yesterday. (I mean the meter isn't broken and the resistor is OK... like that.)
If I can make another one like it, I will not need the fatter diameter.
Normally the mA should be around 40mA. Even that is a good amount for a galvanic pile.
But, as I reported somewhere yesterday, I can get a very well tuned JT circuit that puts out 441v with a AAA to put out only 45 volts with one of these and light 3 leds on the secondary. (I let it do that overnight last night.)

(Until I can get 100mA or more, I do not think I will be lighting the living room with one of these. But I might be able to recharge a battery that can.)

The best part is the deterioration is so slow that it is not perceivable after many hours of use. And, the magnesium is cheap if you buy more than one packet.

Oh, most of the stubblefield thread is about the primary and we used the wrong core material and hand covering the copper and we never got results until lasersaber joined and showed us how he did his. I assume you have seen his 'how-to' video. It is excellent.
part 1 of 5 videos
There is way too much interesting stuff to tell you to skip reading that thread, but for a building recipe, I suggest you use those videos. I still have the last 2 rows to go.

I am glad your carbon got there so quickly.
I also suggest you get the cotton wrapped copper from the UK source. It is not that expensive and it comes ready made. no machine is necessary.
UK source for cotton wrapped copper ... good stuff.

having fun!

jeanna

We did not really think NS did use pitchblende. Especially now, since we have 2 people who can get it to work.

[FrozenWaterLab]

Carbon, Cotton Candy & Winding

Hi Jeanna
I tryed to Order from that UK Co. but they wouldn't ship to a PO Box.
Then I found an US Co. that would do a special run of 500' Copper. Not too pricy.
Well I want my Iron wrapped also and would like to try Aluminum wire also.
So when I ran accross Jims thread well it just caught my fancy and I'm going to work in that direction
We all have reasons for the direction we take. Some better then others haha.

The big Carbon rods appear to be core drilled from a solid mass??????
-Nope Further examination shows a # compressed in center of length and with that info its obviously a compressed rod cut on ends-
Got the big (Carbon) ones to consider a size to amp relation ship,
Carbons = 3/4"sq x 1' as compared to the 2"dia x 2' Both mg rods will be 1"dia x 1'
and I nave found in the junk pile an aprox. 20lb chunk of zinc or mg
(not sure witch) about 1/4 used up from a boat hull. Its about 2" x 6" x 1' Have to weigh that.
MG buried near the surface and the carbon down to 3' at bottom of hole I figure. all setups 6' to 8' apart.

Still wondering what might be used for an Conductive Glue to encase a copper sheet in coke?
With the expense of copper I'm considering copper radiators. Got a few around here.
Now what about coke how to access that substance?
I'm wondering about just poring around thick while burying. Let the dirt pressure do the sticking.
If a radiator what's best? - Flat or upright along the meridian or Up-across the meridian. Anyone have any info on that?
Do one with coke and one without.
(Slot trench easier then big hole) Got a trencher but it needs a new 15hp gas motor.
Had 10hp on it but that wasn't enough for my ground. Rocky about 6" down in some places.
Found an erratic the size of a VW when cutting in a retaining wall foundation. Made it part of the foundation and moved on haha. Thats the job that took out the motor.

Just ordered 20 more 1" x 1' Mg rods for my eventual set-up. The guy was using them to turn parts for his Disotto.
I figure in about 2 week's I'll be playing in the dirt.

Still pondering the 2" galvanized posts 4' down in 3'6" of concrete of the fence. Would or should they be isolated from the chain link fencing? Guess I'll have to get a 2-1/4" thin wall plastic to find out. Fence is about 5' high.
What about the fence going all the way around the lot? Aprox 200' x 200'
Need to measure but I'm figuring right in the middle (100') for Pos. carbon stick.
Prob want to stay 10' from side fence. ????????
(Just realized I have a good chance for comparison. Strange how you can run with blinders on sometimes.)
I own the undeveloped lot next door. No fence. In fact I have the posts in a pile and they need instillation.
10' apart - Perfect no waste of Bobcat with auger time. Allready has a 10' cleared perimeter some extra holes 2' inside the fence post holes for test elements also

Got one of those augers from Billy Mays infomercials maybe with my buddy's big 2" chuck drill I can bore some holes. Probably need auger fins all the way up though. Have to go check out the rental places. (But now it's 4" x 4' Bobcat auger)

Wish their were some data sheet available for this info.
Guess when I'm done their will be.
FrznWtr

[Iotayodi]

Going to be really interesting following this considering the magnetic fields at your location.
Magnetic North Pole Remains Elusive, Alaska Science Forum

Between that, plus the weather and terrain, yours will be more difficult than the average Kodiak. A different ballgame there finding the orientation of the telluric currents and the placement of the + and - rods compared to the continental states. What kind of voltage do you have with a short copper and zinc rods?