Earth Battery SG

[FrozenWaterLab]

Alaska IS 19 DEGREES AND 30 SECONDS TWORDS WEST FROM MAGNETIC NORTH
WOOP (Drated caps lock)
Dident read that yet but will Iotayodi Tnks
I'm in the process of my work week and I'm beat just wanted to pass that info real quick.
Be back later in the week
FrznWtr
OK where I am anyway
I see that it cngs with your location more then I thought.
Good info tnks

[FrozenWaterLab]

duplicate-

[FrozenWaterLab]

Mg Rod

Got My Magnesium rods today. 1" X 1' - 2 of them 20 more on order
Will tap a brass screw into end for a lead.
FrznWtr

[FrozenWaterLab]

In The Dirt

OK I don't have everything yet but I'm out back diggen.
Coerced my buddy out to help. Hehe
yah we dug a 3' hole about a foot wide.
You say aint didly ha this is the rockest tight set river bed country you gona find. Sides we both over 55 :')
Wall we got out the various picks, hammers, bars, claw, drill augers etc.
I tell ya the fence almost fell over with all we had out there.

Carbon
I have 2" x 24" rods 2ea.
1/2 x 2 x 15" slats 20ea.
3/4 square x 8" 16ea.

So the plan is to dig 3 holes and put one each of these in the hole separated by about a foot
2" to west
slat to east 3/4 to north
all pieces to bottom of hole with #6 copper wire bolted on - sticking up to surface. I used solderable Lugs for bolt-hole
Carbon is very easy to drill. I felt this would be the easiest way to make connections

I have the 20 Magnesium 1" x 1' rods on order but haven't received them yet.

I have 1/2" gal-vie pipe to cut to 1' lengths (Maby 2' and 3' also)
that I will place at 60-65' intervals to a max of my lot of about 210'
The N-S meridian is about 20 degrees off my fence line or I wouldn't have quite that much.
I am interested to see if I can garner a relation ship as to current Size depth distance surface area -Parallel series etc. all
I was unable to find any data other then the threads as to this info and am determined to try making a table for future reference.

I also have 8' 5/8 copper coated grounding rods I will be using and perhaps sheeting also we will see.
First pic is of the connector to #6 ground wire about 4' away from 1st hole
Second is a pic of the elements in the 1st hole
Third pic is of elaments
(The "T" is made up because I only have 2 of the big rods. Same length and aprox surface area. It will be in the middle hole.)

Second hole 1/2 way there and 3rd is plotted

1st hole is filled in with elements in place (Roger talked me into putting a 4th 3/4 sq x 8" high in the hole on the south side so we can see if depth has any effect. I'd say the bottom of it is at 1' deep)
FrznWtr

[FrozenWaterLab]

Basic Parts and Readings

Hi All
Well got into the back yard and planted some Mg rods on the N-S meridian
every 10' out to 65' (First is 5' from carbon's and is a double 3" apart E-W
(used grinder brush on one Mg rod to remove oxidized surface 2nd is unbrushed)
used a 1" x 5' digging rod to poke holes 1' deep, then banged in the 1" x 1' Mg
Rigged a roll of 16 gage multi strand with alligator clips each end.
Took a cheep analog and a midrange digital out with me.
So wouldn't you know it, RAIN.

Well a few quick readings.
1st hole 3' deep to North has 4 carbon rods in it. All separated by 1' center fill.
A= 2" diameter x 2' to west at bottom of hole.
B= 3/4" Squair x 8" to north at bottom of hole.
C= 1/2" x 2" x 15" to east at bottom of hole.
D= 3/4" Squair x 8" to south at top of hole, Bottom of rod aprox. 1'
E= an 8' x 5/8" Ground rod driven flush 3' to west of 1st hole. (Lots of work this one)
(Out of N-S alignment till another Mg can be set)

Neg Element = 1" Diameter x 1' Mg Flush in ground 5' south of 1st hole

A to Uncleaned = 1.619V
A to cleaned = 1.214V (Surprising will redo test soon. Pulled Mg to check also)

Used Uncleaned Mg rod for rest of Measurements

B (Deep) = 1.610

C = 1.610

D (Shallow) = 1.397

E = 1.455V

A to 60' away Mg = 1.775V


No Amp readings. Socks are wet and back is damp. Still raining and its getting dark.
My Declination is 19 Degrees West - alined 360 with compass North,
then sighted to 341 degrees.
My Inclination is 74 Degrees
So bottom of 1' Neg electrode to bottom of 3' carbon - 5' apart would require about a 20' hole for the carbon elements.
I believe
(Please correct me if you believe me wrong here)
and I have to say, it's not going to happen. Haha

But it dose appear the 3/4 sq. elements B & D show that deeper is better.
I do intend to try an Mg at 1' that should give me the proper inclination. We will see.

A & B are real close considering .09V difference and Prob. about 10 to 1 Surface area difference.
May Be cutting those 2 x 1/2 x 15" down the length into 1"x 1/2" BUT still have to do Amperage readings.

5' between A & Neg = 1.619 and 60' between = 1.775
is an .156V difference 2/10ths of a volt? Not that much for 60' of wire but then over all power may be better?? Closser may be better?
Lookin for clear sky
This is way fun.
FrznWtr

[Lidmotor]

Pot Scrubber - Earth battery

@All

I stumbled upon another way to get more power out of a small zinc & copper battery----use common pot scrubbers. There are cheap galvanized steel and copper ones that you can find in dollar stores. The surface area of the scrubbers give quite a bit of power even though the voltage isn't that much. I played around with just putting them together in a bowl of water (separated by a piece of cloth) and it made a pretty nice little 1/2 volt power supply. Finally yesterday I just burried a couple in my flower bed to see what would happen and that also worked. Here is the video of the experiment where I am running a small pulse motor off it:

YouTube - ‪Pot Scrubber earth battery ----running a pulse motor‬‎

@FrozenWaterLab

I have been following your progress with this project and everything looks good. With the amount of power you are getting you can actually do quite alot. All you need to do now is choose the right load to run off it. LED lighting makes the most sense. A Bedini SSG running off an Earth Battery was the real goal of this thread though. That is not very easy.

Lidmotor

[dragon]

Tiny batteries...

I've been playing with various compounds and sizes and found you can actually get quite a bit of energy from even the tiny ones.

Here are a couple really really simple builds that end up being around a penny each or less to make. They produce about 1.1 volts at around 30ma and when left in a solution will run a JT for about 12 hours quite brightly. It consumes the magnesium completely in that time but doesn't bother the steel and you can "reload" them. Great for standby energy in a pinch, a batch of them can be made up in short order.

I started by experimenting with iron powder, wrapped in a paper towel with the magnesium ribbon in the middle. Wrapped it all up and used a rubber band to hold it together. These worked really well when dipped in salt water and still worked reasonably well when only plain water was used.

I experimented with sheet metal ( basic low carbon steel sheet ) and stuck some steel and magnesium together with a paper towel separating them and to my surprise they worked almost as well as the iron powder.

Below shows one of the iron powder wraps and the second shows the steel wrap.... They are tiny !!! Pictures show them in the palm of my hand although I should have taken the picture with them on my finger for a better size relationship...

I made up a couple larger ones ( 2 inches long ) which will run 3 LED's in a JT for 17 hours before the magnesium is consumed.

The sheet steel wraps are simply a piece of sheet metal cut slightly wider than the magnesium ribbon and folded in half ( leaving a little tab to connecty a wire to ). The magnesium ribbon is wraped in a paper towel and inserted into the middle of the folded steel then crimped with a pair of pliers. When ready to use it simply dip it in salt water solution...
________
Lovely Wendie99

[FrozenWaterLab]

The sheet steel wraps are simply a piece of sheet metal cut slightly wider than the magnesium ribbon and folded in half ( leaving a little tab to connecty a wire to ). The magnesium ribbon is wraped in a paper towel and inserted into the middle of the folded steel then crimped with a pair of pliers. When ready to use it simply dip it in salt water solution...

Hi Dragon
Nice I like it.
I have some of the Mg ribbon Geanna sugested I get and try. Am going to try it around the roots of one of my trees and linked to a Mg rod.
What I was woundering is have you tryed it and Stainless shim?
Its way up the galvanic series

▪ Graphite
▪ Palladium
▪ Platinum
▪ Gold
▪ Silver
▪ Titanium
▪ Stainless steel 316 (passive)
▪ Stainless Steel 304 (passive)
▪ Silicon bronze
▪ Stainless Steel 316 (active)
▪ Monel 400
▪ Phosphor bronze
▪ Admiralty brass
▪ Cupronickel
▪ Molybdenum
▪ Red brass
▪ Brass plating
▪ Yellow brass
▪ Naval brass 464
▪ Uranium 8% Mo
▪ Niobium 1% Zr
▪ Tungsten
▪ Stainless Steel 304 (active)
▪ Tantalum
▪ Chromium plating
▪ Nickel (passive)
▪ Copper
▪ Nickel (active)
▪ Cast iron
▪ Steel
▪ Lead
▪ Tin
▪ Indium
▪ Aluminum
▪ Uranium (pure)
▪ Cadmium
▪ Beryllium
▪ Zinc plating (see galvanization)
▪ Magnesium
Wounder how much better?
Good Idea for emergency Cell Phone power in the bush.
FrznWtr

[dragon]

Hi Dragon
Nice I like it.
I have some of the Mg ribbon Geanna sugested I get and try. Am going to try it around the roots of one of my trees and linked to a Mg rod.
What I was woundering is have you tryed it and Stainless shim?
Its way up the galvanic series

Wounder how much better?
Good Idea for emergency Cell Phone power in the bush.
FrznWtr

Wow, thanks for the list.... I've never seen one that complete before. I haven't tried any stainless yet, guess I'll have to find some and give it a try...

I've built some with graphite and they are exceptional - unfortunately the graphite is expensive, thus the need to find other materials that work reasonably well.
________
Ferrari f2002 specifications

[FrozenWaterLab]

@All

I stumbled upon another way to get more power out of a small zinc & copper battery----use common pot scrubbers.
experiment where I am running a small pulse motor off it:

@FrozenWaterLab

I have been following your progress with this project and everything looks good. With the amount of power you are getting you can actually do quite alot. All you need to do now is choose the right load to run off it. LED lighting makes the most sense. A Bedini SSG running off an Earth Battery was the real goal of this thread though. That is not very easy.

Lidmotor

Nice thought with the scrubbers Lidmotor.
I have enjoyed your work!
Might be my cheapest copper source up here haha
Be interested to see how long they last.
I intend to try the Mg ribbon and some of the copper ones. Question what do You think of Carbon Granules Wrapped in a couple? maybe Tie wrapped. Have to give that a try.
I am going to have to make one of those pulse motors you have.
Looks like a great test Load. I have some read switches on order and already have manny Neos (Rods Squares disks etc)
but I think I'll order some small rings and spheres.
I have some various size LED's and have wound a JT 2.5"dia 1/2" thick
Sec is 3 layers about 100 turns ea. of 26 gage.
2 ea. - Pri wound on top 1-10 winds 2nd-20 winds, both 22 gage.
need to hook it up this week and see what I can get to shineee
FrznWtr
Ps I do have a bike wheel SSG and was thinking Nathen Stubblefield Coil to run it
But if I could get the EB to do it that would be RAD - Good Goal

[FrozenWaterLab]

Wow, thanks for the list.... I've never seen one that complete before. I haven't tried any stainless yet, guess I'll have to find some and give it a try...

I've built some with graphite and they are exceptional - unfortunately the graphite is expensive, thus the need to find other materials that work reasonably well.

@Dragon
I believe Carbon is about the same as Graphite. Lets see another chart?


Metals and soils
Potential Differences of metals
(Soil Galvanic series)
Metal
...
Potential
V Cu/CuSO4 electrode
Magnesium (pure)
-1.75
Magnesium (alloy)
-1.60
Zinc
-1.10
Aluminum (alloy)
-1.05
Aluminum (pure)
-0.8
Steel (clean)
-0.50 to -0.80
Steel (rusted)
-0.20 to -0.50
Cast Iron
-0.50
Lead
-0.50
Steel (concrete)
-0.20
Copper
-0.20
Brass
-0.20
Bronze
-0.20
Steel (mill scale)
-0.20
Cast iron (high silicon)
-0.20
Carbon
+0.30
Graphite
+0.30
Coke
+0.30
Notes:
▪ Non-uniform conditions at node surface results in different voltages
Ref.: Engineering Tutorials: Potential of Metals in Soils

Old motor brushes could be crushed or scraped for powder.
Perhaps charcoal from a filter
FrznWtr

[Lidmotor]

Performance

@FrozenWaterLab
Thank for the great metal charts. There have been some heated discussions about WHAT is really happening with "earth batteries"----real ones--ones burried in the ground. My feeling is that if we can get cost effective energy this way without messing up the environment, then it doesn't matter (to the average person) HOW it works. If it doesn't work out to be a good idea at least we have had some fun building and learned a thing or two.
That said---I am in the "galvanic" group right now until I successfully build a "tullric current" type.
Here is a video that I did yesterday where I am running a Joule Thief circuit off the battery in the ground and also off a table top version of that battery.

YouTube - ‪Pot Scrubber Battery---Table Model.ASF‬‎

Lidmotor

[dragon]

@Dragon
I believe Carbon is about the same as Graphite. Lets see another chart?


Metals and soils
Potential Differences of metals
(Soil Galvanic series)
Metal
...
Potential
V Cu/CuSO4 electrode
Magnesium (pure)
-1.75
Magnesium (alloy)
-1.60
Zinc
-1.10
Aluminum (alloy)
-1.05
Aluminum (pure)
-0.8
Steel (clean)
-0.50 to -0.80
Steel (rusted)
-0.20 to -0.50
Cast Iron
-0.50
Lead
-0.50
Steel (concrete)
-0.20
Copper
-0.20
Brass
-0.20
Bronze
-0.20
Steel (mill scale)
-0.20
Cast iron (high silicon)
-0.20
Carbon
+0.30
Graphite
+0.30
Coke
+0.30
Notes:
? Non-uniform conditions at node surface results in different voltages
Ref.: Engineering Tutorials: Potential of Metals in Soils

Old motor brushes could be crushed or scraped for powder.
Perhaps charcoal from a filter
FrznWtr

Thanks... I have some high carbon tubing that I need to try to see if there is a better reaction than normal iron or standard steel. So far all the steel I have seems to work well with the magnesium. I have only 1006 and 1010 sheet available right now which is relatively low carbon. The molly blend tubing may be considerably higher as well as some tool steel I have - very high carbon... unfortunately these aren't readily available and tool steel is difficult to work with... I have some stainless shim stock I'll be trying this afternoon... These tiny batteries are impressive so far....
________
Body Science

[dragon]

@FrozenWaterLab
Thank for the great metal charts. There have been some heated discussions about WHAT is really happening with "earth batteries"----real ones--ones burried in the ground. My feeling is that if we can get cost effective energy this way without messing up the environment, then it doesn't matter (to the average person) HOW it works. If it doesn't work out to be a good idea at least we have had some fun building and learned a thing or two.
That said---I am in the "galvanic" group right now until I successfully build a "tullric current" type.
Here is a video that I did yesterday where I am running a Joule Thief circuit off the battery in the ground and also off a table top version of that battery.

YouTube - ‪Pot Scrubber Battery---Table Model.ASF‬‎

Lidmotor

Pretty cool lidmotor ! I wonder if that large coil of speaker wire is actually storing some of the energy as opposed to creating a resistive loss? Sounds like an interesting subject on it's own... Keep up the great work... love watching your videos !
________
Extreme Q Vaporizer Portable Battery Pack

[dragon]

Stainless, not so good

I tried some stainless steel with the magnesium.... not reccommended... Although it worked well in running the JT using a small amount, it also has a really fast reaction. It lasted about 1/2hour when the end of magnesium fell off. You could actually watch it deteriorate. I don't know what grade stainless this is, labeled as shim stock but it was slightly magnetic. So far sheet steel is a winner....
________
Jailbroken