Earth Battery SG

[jeanna]

Fantastic!


and

jeanna

[conradelektro]

Thank you for the information

@ Aaron - thank you for the clarifications, it starts to make more sense.

@ Lidmotor: great Stubblefield Coils, great video.

Since little details seem to matter so much in a Stubblefield coil, I take the liberty to ask a few questions. You gave very good information in your video, but inexperienced want to be experimenters always ask for more

- Dimensions and material of your wires (on the stubby coil), specially which cotton covered copper wire did you use? I guess one has to use galvanised iron wire? (Some people used aluminium wire instead of iron wire?)

- Did you insulate the black iron tub (core) just with a layer of cotton or also with some sticky tape like LaserSaber?

- I think you used a layer of cotton between each layer of the windings?

- How did you keep the coil (wires) from unwinding when you did the widing, specially when you reached an end of a layer? LaserSaber used a clamp and then some sticky tape at the ends before he wound back the other way. This seems to be important because the coil has to be tight.

Greetings, Conrad

[1NRG24Seven]

Aaron, to me the John Bedeni circuit drawing has incomplete information. That being the relationship of the two wheels depicted and their relationship one to another as far as a gear ratio. seems to me as drawn you would get only one pulse out of several turns of the larger as the smaller second wheel would be turning many times slower than the larger wheel. Therefor the data that is missing is how many turns of the larger wheel before a pulse or switch in this case is closed.

24

[1NRG24Seven]

My earth battery results, this are all instant values with very small pieces used, if i let the materials rest in the earth, the voltage and amperage increase very fast, i found to, that as more deep in the earth, more power.

iron + copper = 0,8V 0,3mA

iron + ceramic material unknown = 1.04V 0.9mA

iron + other Unknown material = 0.73V 55uA (0,05mA)

copper + ceramic material unknown = 0,3V 0.2mA

other Unknown material + copper = 1.53V 0.7mA

and the winner is:

other Unknown material + ceramic material unknown = 1.8V 2mA

with none of this materials i had good results using me as a battery as with the "Unknown material".

You said in a previous post that the unknown material was foldable. Is it tin or tin foil?...try some tin or tin foil and see if its around the same voltage. Most flashing for building material is tin or aluminum, tin being harder.
24

[juju]

Hello NRG!

i think the small wheel should be calculated to trigger cap discharge half the time cycle of the big wheel! i read that somewere....

im experimenting with Aaron closed loop circuit, but using my pickup coil separated from the run coil... the run have 6ohm resistance... and i wound a secondary (bifilar) with the same 6ohm... i only get 0.5V of it, when i connect it to closed loop circuit the cap shows 4.5V... that is the input on the bedini.

But that dont decrease my current draw... maybe is because the separated pickup? im not using the correct cap to, 16V 1500uF... it should be 4.5V cap for my input i think, so it can fill the cap completely with one charge cycle...

Aaron, to me the John Bedeni circuit drawing has incomplete information. That being the relationship of the two wheels depicted and their relationship one to another as far as a gear ratio. seems to me as drawn you would get only one pulse out of several turns of the larger as the smaller second wheel would be turning many times slower than the larger wheel. Therefor the data that is missing is how many turns of the larger wheel before a pulse or switch in this case is closed.
24

my plate is tin... i tryed with aluminium tin foil and will work to.. but the output is maybe half.. so the blinking effect will be more slower!

hugs

You said in a previous post that the unknown material was foldable. Is it tin or tin foil?...try some tin or tin foil and see if its around the same voltage. Most flashing for building material is tin or aluminum, tin being harder.
24

[Mark]

Question:

I was wondering if a thin oil like WD-40 was used instead of water on the Stubblefield coil if it would work as well. The oil wouldn't evaporate and would keep the wires from corroding.

I am going to start building something similar, an earth cap soon. Its suppose to give off higher voltage, around 90 but lower amps. Basically its an aluminum rod with layers of copper wire and paper. One end of wire is positive and the rod is the negative.

Mark

[screaminvern]

Question:

I was wondering if a thin oil like WD-40 was used instead of water on the Stubblefield coil if it would work as well. The oil wouldn't evaporate and would keep the wires from corroding.

I am going to start building something similar, an earth cap soon. Its suppose to give off higher voltage, around 90 but lower amps. Basically its an aluminum rod with layers of copper wire and paper. One end of wire is positive and the rod is the negative.

Mark

Thats exactly what I've been wondering. I started a new coil this morning and was thinking about using vegetable oil.

[Lidmotor]

Building the "Stubby" Stubblefield

@Conradelektro--
This little Stubblefield coil that Dragon came up with, is built like Lasersaber's. It uses cotton covered wire and galvanized steel wire. You can get the wire from the UK source that Jeanna listed and the steel wire can be found in hardware stores. I am using 24ga wire because it is easier to wrap. On my coil I wrapped the core with electrical tape like Laser did and I used one layer of cotton T-shirt material between the layers also. To hold the wires between layers, while I wrapped the cloth, I just used tape.

Jeanna told me about another way to make the coil that was ingenious and worked. She said to wrap bare copper around the insulated core and then place a layer of cotton cloth over that layer. You then wrap the bare galvanized steel wire between the winds of the copper wire with the cloth as the insulator. I tried this on a 4 turn test piece and it worked quite well. That avoids the expensive cotton covered wire problem but it will probably take more time to wrap. The wires have to lay tightly next to each other insulated only by the cloth layer. She said that silk cloth worked also and even suggested sewing the cloth tube rather than using tape.

Lidmotor

[dragon]

other thoughts...

@Conradelektro--
This little Stubblefield coil that Dragon came up with, is built like Lasersaber's. It uses cotton covered wire and galvanized steel wire. You can get the wire from the UK source that Jeanna listed and the steel wire can be found in hardware stores. I am using 24ga wire because it is easier to wrap. On my coil I wrapped the core with electrical tape like Laser did and I used one layer of cotton T-shirt material between the layers also. To hold the wires between layers, while I wrapped the cloth, I just used tape.

Jeanna told me about another way to make the coil that was ingenious and worked. She said to wrap bare copper around the insulated core and then place a layer of cotton cloth over that layer. You then wrap the bare galvanized steel wire between the winds of the copper wire with the cloth as the insulator. I tried this on a 4 turn test piece and it worked quite well. That avoids the expensive cotton covered wire problem but it will probably take more time to wrap. The wires have to lay tightly next to each other insulated only by the cloth layer. She said that silk cloth worked also and even suggested sewing the cloth tube rather than using tape.

Lidmotor

Nice work Lidmotor as usual ! I enjoy watching your video's, quite inspiring. My original coil was done similar to what you described jeanna did with the iron wire first, layered with cloth then copper ( I didn't have the cotton covered wire yet either ). This one worked amazingly well but only for a short time which was discouraging. The small ones offer a less expensive and labor intensive way to experiment with them while trying different methods of overcomming the short life.

It occured to me that there may be better methods of reproducing the coil with more modern items available to us today. Nickle wire is available as well as cadmium wire making up a NiCad. The Franklin battery used Nickle and iron plates ( NiFe ) which had a very long life span ( 20+ years ) with good output current. Both would require a base or acidic solution for peak output and a way to keep them charged but in the form of a SF coil would offer an interesting outcome.

My thoughts eventually turned to the idea of using a NiCad battery with a bifillar wound coil which would provide the same outcome but it detracts from its original intention of "making it's own energy". A battery by any other name is still a battery though...

Another avenue of thought was to treat it just like a solenoid which can be calculated in "Amp/Turns" to find the gauss output....

( number of turns * Amps ) / ( 2.02 * length of coil ) = gauss

This would suggest the length of the coil would make a big difference in the actual flux outcome. The shorter you make them the higher the gauss.

The next problem to overcome would be increasing the current. Area plays a big part which would make a big difference in the current produced. For instance, I'm using about 25ft of 19ga wire each in copper and iron and the wire diameter is .035 inch. So... .035 * Pi x 300 inches = 32.98 sq inches exposed. If you used say 10ga wire you would have about 95 sq inches or about 3x the area, possibly 3 x the current or maybe more if there is an exponential component to increasing area.

I would think that Nathan used larger wire than we are in what looked to be some fairly large coils so he may have been getting Amps instead of microAmps in his coils. This would make a big difference in the Amp/Turn formula as well as the induction to the outer coil winding.

If you imagine for a moment a group of coils producing 20 amps at 1/2 volt burried in the back yard charging a 12v battery bank from the secondary coils 24/7 that would give you 7.2 kwh per month of energy. If the longivity problem can be solved to have a 5-10 year or even longer lifespan this would be far better than solar or wind and be very reliable ( although you may need to water your Stubblefield garden now and then ), winter may cause a problem and require a deeper location with a watering tube of sorts.... Also, finding methods of keeping the cost down in building them would be a plus...

In any case I find these things quite interesting and they definately have some potential in our need for Alternative energy ....
________

[Lidmotor]

Filling the gap of solar and wind energy

@ Dragon--
Thanks for the great input on better materials for these batteries. Your thoughts about these NS batteries filling in the gap left by solar and wind energy sources are why I got interested in this project. When the sun don't shine and wind don't blow--- we SOMETHING to fill in.

Your calculations about surface area needed for amperage are greatly appreciated by us slightly mathmatically challenged experimenters.

Besides being fun, these little projects might lead to real solutions to our energy problems.

Lidmotor

[conradelektro]

Lidmotor,

thank you very much for the information, that helps.

Greetings, Conrad

[jeanna]

Question:

I was wondering if a thin oil like WD-40 was used instead of water on the Stubblefield coil if it would work as well. The oil wouldn't evaporate and would keep the wires from corroding.

Mark,
Will you get any galvanic current with oil?

I am going to start building something similar, an earth cap soon. Its suppose to give off higher voltage, around 90 but lower amps. Basically its an aluminum rod with layers of copper wire and paper. One end of wire is positive and the rod is the negative.

this sounds really good.
Please let us know how it works.

@dragon

Another avenue of thought was to treat it just like a solenoid which can be calculated in "Amp/Turns" to find the gauss output....

( number of turns * Amps ) / ( 2.02 * length of coil ) = gauss

Yes, of course it is a solenoid.
that is a great help.
In many of the photos of these it can be seen that the hand can wrap around the coil with no extra length of coil left over. This indicates to me that the length was between 3 and 4 inches.

In fact my favorite one #3 is only 3 1/2 inches long. It was favorite because it did impossible things.
I wrapped an additional inductor around the iron wire end and got better voltage. It was like an additional secondary but it was on just one wire and not over the whole thing!
Crazy! but it worked.

Also, btw, I gave up hurting my hands after a while and the pipe coil #11, is made with 24awg wire for both the copper and steel. [This is the one that is putting out over 400mA unless my resistor is blown.]

Plus... all those tests were made with a dmm, because I did not have a scope.

thank you,

jeanna

[dragon]

Mark,

@dragon


Yes, of course it is a solenoid.
that is a great help.
In many of the photos of these it can be seen that the hand can wrap around the coil with no extra length of coil left over. This indicates to me that the length was between 3 and 4 inches.

In fact my favorite one #3 is only 3 1/2 inches long. It was favorite because it did impossible things.
I wrapped an additional inductor around the iron wire end and got better voltage. It was like an additional secondary but it was on just one wire and not over the whole thing!
Crazy! but it worked.


jeanna

That sounds quite interesting... I'm not sure I grasp completely what you mean by the additional inductor... I tend to think in pictures, words sometimes makes the picture fuzzy and the details don't shine through... any diagrams or pictures?
________

[jeanna]

additional inductor

Hi dragon,

I wasn't sure what to call it.

one day, I was desperately trying things and I took a piece of 28awg mag wire and wound 22 turns around the unconnected electrode wires.
So, there is 1 22T coil around the inner copper electrode and another 22T coil around the outer iron electrode.

It is easy to see how if I put the meter on the iron electrode and the core iron of the main coil that I would get a voltage.
Today that voltage is 0.066v
the voltage from the wire wrapped around this iron electrode wire to the core piece is also about 0.066v

The copper electrode itself to the core is also around 0.066v
But the 22T coil wrapped around the copper electrode gives barely 0.017v

So, my conclusion is that there is more to investigate here.
I guess it is about magnetic influence, esp since the main wires are now shorted.

Also it is impossible to give you any fresh results from the coil itself, but I noted this extra voltage before it got shorted. My memory is that the NS coil was producing 300mv and the extra coil around the iron electrode to the core was showing a voltage difference of around 300mv too. this extra coil touches nothing. It is varnished wire and both ends are free.

I just think the iron wire has some kind of magnetic activity that is able to produce "electricity" in a copper wire when that copper wire is wound around it.

jeanna

Sorry no picture but...

OK here try this.
Grab one of your working coils.

Wrap a piece of mag wire around the inner copper electrode wire and another around the outer iron electrode wire. Strip the varnish off and measure the volts to the core. You can also measure the voltage to the other wires.

[jeanna]

milliamp correction

This needs a separate post.

I have finally achieved a mA reading that I believe.
I think somehow the meter probes were shorting across the resistor. (Actually I think the resistor is shorted internally in some positions.)

When the volts are 189mV the mA are 1.2mA

My apologies for this,

jeanna