Earth Battery SG

[Farmhand]

Thanks kcarring, I really haven't done much research into earth batteries so I may be wrong but what you said here is what i'm interested in.

If Earth Batteries can run (indefinitely) and can be made with materials design to last about 5-10 yrs, AND they can be joined in series, I think there's potential to use them to pulse with.

I don't mind if it costs a bit and i'm prepared to experiment in small scale to see whats possible at this location. And I still have to do a lot of research yet, but i thought I would ask so I could maybe start to prepare some experiments. Hopefully saving some time if anyone had experimented for this type of result.

I am interested to hear of your results and such.
I'm in no hurry or anything just yet, if I know some of the things that might be usefull to a project like this I can collect them over time.

Your post is full of info for me and i'll check out some of Lasrresabres posts, thanks for the heads up.

Cheers

[kcarring]

Well, I'm still trying to comprehend the "Earth" effect. I may be confused, perhaps the sheer length in opposite directions, i.e. you run one wire 1000 ft to the north, and the other disimilar metal wire 1000 ft. to the south - maybe this actually taps into something. I don't have a lot of "old" archived research material - the original stuff, but that is sort of what I got from lasresabre's video.

Now for the stubblefied... again I'm missing the original material... When you look at it - it appears to be half battery, half coil. And not a great battery design, at that... (only given my failures, that is...) BUT maybe it is connected to lengths of wire, that extend off north and south...

I don't know.

On a third and different note, in regards to the nickel iron battery concept - there is one guy on youtube.com that appears to be doing things more systematically than I did, my cells are HUGE and do not have any kind of desirable charge density/capacity. They work though, and they don't degrade themselves. I even froze one rock solid by accident, thawed it out, rejuvenated the NaOH and she ran fine at 1.1v.

I almost got the impression that lasresabre built one, and "ran out of land" so to speak. (his Earth battery of two wires). He did however get some milliamps, he drove 5 little motors, (tiny helicopter wings).

I get intrigued by it from the sense that even if all your work is for 12v, 500 milliamps... still, thats 24hrs a day, unlike solar. thats 144 a day. You could pulsecharge with that on a Bedini. That's my thought anyway.

Things of interest to me right now. Stainless steel scrub pads are really just iron. Rebar Tie wire looks to me to be pretty much iron and not a whole lot more. Canadian nickels older than '81 are 99.9% and contain about 11c worth of nickel. 3M make a fine (90,000 threads per inch) fluffless polymer shop rag that may stand up to NaOH. My concept is nickel wire, nickel coated rebar wire for one electrode and iron III oxide coated iron wire for the other side, both in the Stubblefield, and on the ground runners. the path as dug would be sprinkled with 100% lye flake then reburied.


Eds got a new video, I'm going to go to go watch it.
YouTube - edsworkshop's Channel

[Farmhand]

Yes k, I will have to do some research both in this thread and through some old books or something maybe. It's very interesting and there is likely a few slightly different principals or energy sources to tap into in different ways. I'm confident that the ground here is suitable for a good large multiple cell setup.

Only some testing the right way will tell I guess. Each location is different too for what methods are possible maybe.

Yipee another video.

Thanks again.

[Iotayodi]

Iotayodi 400 led's that is impressive, was it only a small earth battery ? And a joule thief. 400 is a lot.

He used a carbon rod 3/4 inch dia x 17 inches long and a magnesium block.

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?a...ch=15404;image

http://www.overunity.com/index.php?a...ch=15402;image

Is a galvanic battery in the ground really an earth battery

Depends on how you want to look at it. The Earth itself is the big source battery that is kept charged by the Sun and cosmos. That in turn basically charges our little Earth "batteries" or whatever device that is conducting the current. You can have Galvanic action both in ground and out.

Electrical induction only occurs with electrical alternations, oscillations, and impulses.

The current produced is highest when the two metals are most widely separated from each other in the electropotential series, and when the material nearer the positive end is to the north, while that at the negative end is towards the south. The plates, one copper and another iron or carbon, are connected above ground by means of a wire with as little resistance as possible. In such an arrangement, the electrodes are not appreciably chemically corroded, even when they are in earth saturated with water, and are connected together by a wire for a long time.

It had been found that to strengthen the current, it was most advantageous to drive the northerly electropositive electrode deeper into the medium than the southerly electrode. The greatest currents and voltages were obtained when the difference in depth was such that a line joining the two electrodes was in the direction of the magnetic dip, or magnetic inclination. When the previous methods were combined, the current was tapped and utilized in any well-known manner.
Earth battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

New Page 2


"Telluric currents flow in the surface layers of the earth. The electric potential on the Earth's surface can be measured at different points,...

The field varies in time and over the frequency range 0.001 to 5 Hz (Krasnogorskaja & Remizov, 1975). Electric potential gradients caused by telluric currents are of the order of 0.2 to 1000 volts per metre. (Krasnogorskaja and Remizov, 1975; Vanjan, 1975). At any location, the current density is a direct function of the interhemispheric currents and their potential gradients. It has been estimated that telluric currents overall during twelve hours in one hemisphere are in range of 100 to 1000 amperes"

Telluric current - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

From what Ive read steel inside cement can act like a copper material in the dissimilar metal chart.

Its already known that at approximately every 6 vertical feet there is a 100 electrostatic volt potential. 12 feet is 200 volts and so on. The Nathan Stubblefield coil utilized this potential by running wires to trees. He had them strung up inside them also. That would be your negative. His coil of course is an electrostatic induction coil but this potential can still be used in common galvanic batterys. The Stubblefield coil was slightly galvanic but the real power was in the telluric currents and by all accounts they lasted years.

To add to this we have radiant energy. Whenever dc current is first turned on you have a burst of radiant energy then it disappears. When you pulse dc current on and off in a timely manner you have a steady flow of radiant energy. It seems this may have been a factor as well in the NS coil.

[Farmhand]

Ok thanks Iotayodi, thats a lot of info to start with, i will definately have to look into Stubblefield and try to understand some of his stuff.

I have some idea's but they are untested and a bit bizzaro, so i'll keep them to myself unless i find other corroborating evidence before I test them out. very busy at the moment. Thanks for the tips. Just reading your's and k's post is quite informative.

I think I need to drive in some test rods in a few places. I am concerned that my elecreic fence may interfere with test results so I guess i'll have to turn it off.

Thanks very much guys, i could have read some of this thread but it confuses me. A lot.

Many thanks.

[kcarring]

Thank you that clears up some of my confusion.

[Iotayodi]

I am concerned that my elecreic fence may interfere with test results so I guess i'll have to turn it off.

I wouldnt think it would interfere. If you have wood posts heres a little test you can make. Take your meter and stick the neg probe in the ground and take the positive and place it on the bottom of the post. If the ground is damp at all you will get readings and the higher you go on the post the less voltage. You should have insulators so there shouldnt be any voltage from the electric fence to the post.

An electric fence is a normally open circuit so there is no current flow until the wire is touched. When its touched current flows to ground through whatever touches it. If there is no current flow there is no magnetic field interference coming off the wire.

[Farmhand]

I wouldnt think it would interfere. If you have wood posts heres a little test you can make. Take your meter and stick the neg probe in the ground and take the positive and place it on the bottom of the post. If the ground is damp at all you will get readings and the higher you go on the post the less voltage. You should have insulators so there shouldnt be any voltage from the electric fence to the post.

An electric fence is a normally open circuit so there is no current flow until the wire is touched. When its touched current flows to ground through whatever touches it. If there is no current flow there is no magnetic field interference coming off the wire.

Ok, that make's sense, I have steel pickets but the hot wire's are very well insulated or isolated whatever. I'm going over to stretch some wire so i'll take a meter. I already have a galvinised steel post driven in about 600mm and i'll take a compass and a bit of copper pipe. Hopefully the billy goat will be over the other side of the hill, I really don't feel like a duel with the goat today.

So I just bang in the copper pipe due north from the gal picket. But being in the southern hemisphere I might have to keep the gal picket deeper than the copper. Maybe ? Then I string some wire and take a reading. Maybe I should take an LED. I realise a 240v incandescant wont work. But maybe an LED will. I have a camera ready if it does.

Any thoughts on the dip for southern hemisphere ?

Thanks a heap.

[Farmhand]

Test Rig

Hi all, First very quick test result was very good. Couldn't get into the
paddock. So I decided a small test setup was the go. I measured out 1 meter
N/S used a crow bar to drive a neat small diameter hole at both ends not
sure how deep ( started raining ) but I think over 1 meter down so far, it's
just getting down into the granite rock.

Here's one of the hole's, I thought it best to make a hole first then bang them
in as far as I could before filling in, I'll leave at least 300 mm out.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...011.JPG?psid=1

Here's a rough sketch of the setup.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...001.JPG?psid=1

I'm using a 1800mm Galvanised steel picket at south end and a
1300 mm x 32 mm copper pipe at north end. Just dropping them in the hole's
and pushing them in a bit by hand I measured 1.002 volts and I hadn't even
banged them right in or covered the hole's in.

I found some of this funny looking copper wire stuff.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...014.JPG?psid=1

So I wrapped some around the copper pipe. Like this.
http://wv2bxw.bay.livefilestore.com/...002.JPG?psid=1

I secured the wire through a hole near the top and bottom.
I'll whack em in the ground properly tomorrow. The copper pipe i'll put a
removable cap on so I can put some special potion in there from time to time.
Looks promising.

Oh yeah this is the reason I couldn't go into the paddock where the picket
was already driven in.
http://public.bay.livefilestore.com/...007.JPG?psid=1

Cheers

[Iotayodi]

I really don't feel like a duel with the goat today.

Lol! I have a friend who raises them and they can get ornery. Ill take my cows any day.

Heres a calculator for inclination and declination. Just type in your city or zip code. It will get you close. If you want to be more exact you can use a Gps.

http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/geomagmodel...ts/calcIGRFWMM

I already have a galvanized steel post

Try other materials too like zinc bolts. If you have barb wire you could try that out also. Dont expect to many ma's from this type of setup.

[Iotayodi]

Just saw your post. The 1 volt is about standard. It will probably drop down and especially if the ground is wet.
Nice looking Goat!

[Guruji]

EB

Just saw your post. The 1 volt is about standard. It will probably drop down and especially if the ground is wet.
Nice looking Goat!

Hi Iotayodi very interesting on the info you posted. I had did to poles once one to north and the other to south but only about 1v and a few ma. Is it maybe one have to do them very accurate to north and south and maybe put the north side more deep in ground?
Thanks

[Farmhand]

Hi all, My test setup is on a hill north end down, not sure if it will help me.
It's all hills here.

I haven't even had a chance to bang the battery terminals into the ground
yet,very busy there's a huge cyclone on the way. Might get it done tomorrow.

I was hoping to get a bit more than 1 volt when I first measured I hadn't
finished the hole's, I just had the terminals dropped into the holes. I pulled
them out again to keep making the holes deeper but it's difficult. I've hit
granite rock and the positive hole is hard.

Negative hole will go down to full depth, I want the galvanised steel negative
terminal down 1200mm and the positive copper pipe down 1000 mm at least.
I'll get it down. By making a neat hole first with the crow bar in the moist soil
I can drive the pipe in the last bit without damaging the top, much, or the
bottom. Then fill in around the pipe with carbon dust.

Not sure about the negative terminal I think I will put a pastic pipe in next to
it so I can add solution to the earth if I want. Fill that in with dirt I guess.

Maybe a bit of magnesium sulfate in solution, can be poured into the copper
pipe and the pipe capped. Some porus charcoal aswell maybe, the charcoal
could be removed with a smaller pipe if desired and replaced.

Where it is I can easily make another cell next to it. To see what happens.

I'm shooting for 2.5 volts even though I know I won't get it. If I can light a
Bright white LED like in a garden light I will be very happy.

I can always connect a plate "p" type thing to the positve terminal through a
capacitor. Try all kinds of stuff. I'm glad I made a small test setup
close to the house.

If it works the test rig can becom a garden light.

Cheers

[Iotayodi]

accurate to north and south and maybe put the north side more deep in ground?

The deeper the better for sure on the north. Current flows into the south magnetic pole. The North geographic pole is the south magnetic pole. The Locations of major telluric currents are deeper in the ground. The small copper setups would need acres and acres run in both series and parallel to up voltage and amps for any real usable power. Even the NS coil needed a good location of the telluric currents to tap into using his induction coil.

[Jeff Pearson]

NS vibrator idea

have built pipe in pipe EB and also built a coil style that was not a NS..want to build a NS now and have been wondering...why not use the stubblefield electromagnet as its own switch..just a lever with a magnet on it..and a spring to keep it normally closed..which powers the electromagnet..which pulls the lever down and breaks contact..the spring closes the circuit and the cycle starts again...a simple buzzer..like stubblefield may have used before solid state..does anybody follow what I'm saying or have tried this..also it seems to me that lighting a LED might be counterproductive in that it would block back EMF..therefore blocking feedback????????????