Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[**~Imhotep~**]

i did not see a schematic so i am not sure what is happening on your circuit ,but i tried reed relays at first but they do not have a iron core and the iron core in the relay is important for the interaction of the self oscillation of the relay .with the use of a 555 with a transistor or fet driving the relay the self oscillation is no longer important . the more i think about the 3055 it would have to have a protection diode on it i believe and that might mess with the recovery energy . i will have to rely on Peter on advice on changing the drive for the relay. on using no relay just fet or 3055 i would have to experiment to have any usable data on that . i did this morning just for a test ran the coil on the output of my imhotep fan and it didnt have enough punch with only one fan to drive the coil to full saturation all tho a parellel fan arrangment might drive it well also someone with the larger bedini 's might be able to drive the coil .

[theremart]

Ok...

Putting this baby together...

Condensor, which is positive and which is negative? I would assume case is negative, so I would run that to the negative of the coil... and the center is postive to positive of the ignition coil...

right?

[**~Imhotep~**]

Putting this baby together...

Condensor, which is positive and which is negative? I would assume case is negative, so I would run that to the negative of the coil... and the center is postive to positive of the ignition coil...

right?

you are correct the case is negitive and the wire or post is plus

[waterhouse24]

To get the intense light, with the schematic I posted, I had to play around with both relays using 2 neo magnets and for some unknown reason, get it to a point where all of a sudden the bulbs just hit high intensity light.. It's quite exciting when you get it right and you can tell because the whole room lights up .. I'll try and get it onto video later but it won't show or mean much without a light lux meter. When it does hit this high intense light it does not change the ampage draw... because I can then slowly change the neo magnets to draw around 1.5amps.. if i make the relays pull any less than this then the bulbs instantly go dim again..

Hope this means something to someone.. I thought i better explain in details what is happening.

[Bodkins]

i did not see a schematic so i am not sure what is happening on your circuit ,but i tried reed relays at first but they do not have a iron core and the iron core in the relay is important for the interaction of the self oscillation of the relay .with the use of a 555 with a transistor or fet driving the relay the self oscillation is no longer important . the more i think about the 3055 it would have to have a protection diode on it i believe and that might mess with the recovery energy . i will have to rely on Peter on advice on changing the drive for the relay. on using no relay just fet or 3055 i would have to experiment to have any usable data on that . i did this morning just for a test ran the coil on the output of my imhotep fan and it didnt have enough punch with only one fan to drive the coil to full saturation all tho a parellel fan arrangment might drive it well also someone with the larger bedini 's might be able to drive the coil .

What im trying to say really badly is, if you have a small reed switch iron core coil before the ignition coil between the positive and negative of the different batterys strange things happen.

i think that if you interrupted the first oscillation like this usable energy is pulled into the system.

I have tryed this many times with a one wire coil in place of the ignition coil and the volt meter on bold batterys go mad.

im i going down a dead end here?
But i really do think the relay has a energy input in to your system.

[Bodkins]

To get the intense light, with the schematic I posted, I had to play around with both relays using 2 neo magnets and for some unknown reason, get it to a point where all of a sudden the bulbs just hit high intensity light.. It's quite exciting when you get it right and you can tell because the whole room lights up .. I'll try and get it onto video later but it won't show or mean much without a light lux meter. When it does hit this high intense light it does not change the ampage draw... because I can then slowly change the neo magnets to draw around 1.5amps.. if i make the relays pull any less than this then the bulbs instantly go dim again..

Hope this means something to someone.. I thought i better explain in details what is happening.

Coool
You got something there old boy
cant wait to see the vid

[**~Imhotep~**]

What im trying to say really badly is, if you have a small reed switch iron core coil before the ignition coil between the positive and negative of the different batterys strange things happen.

i think that if you interrupted the first oscillation like this usable energy is pulled into the system.

I have tryed this many times with a one wire coil in place of the ignition coil and the volt meter on bold batterys go mad.

im i going down a dead end here?
But i really do think the relay has a energy input in to this.

Yes it does. The relay and the primary if wired correctly have the lowest current draw and you get 3 coil collapses from the setup. 1 - from the the relay, 1 - from the primary and 1 - from the secondary. The spark plugs themselves, when you used with a conventional coil rely on the collapsing field of the secondary to spark. Your replacing that spark plug with a negative resistor which is the fluorescent tube. But the interaction with the primary and the relay coil collapse does make a difference. There is many reasons i went with the relay. One of them was the free assist between the primary and the relay.

I do understand what you are doing now. Your breaking the connection on the positive end and using a Bedini with a 555 to pulse the negative end. Interesting. Hows the light output? Does the light output change with the frequency of the 555 or do you have it prewired to a certain frequency, or have you made the 555 adjustable? And as far as the magnet adjustment how does that affect the circuit? what kind of current draw is on your 555. Sorry for firing so many questions but your setup is interesting. As far as your meters going crazy, digital meters will be all over place with this high voltage. Lindemann has said that if you want good results use an analog meters and isolate them with a cap and diode. Then you will get solid readings and accurate readings but there is high voltage all over these circuits from the collapsing fields. have a fun safe trip


i do want to add, you are using your own custom coil, so your results are going to be slightly different and We may not be able to replicate your exactl results. When you get back Def we will have to check that out more.

[**~Imhotep~**]

To get the intense light, with the schematic I posted, I had to play around with both relays using 2 neo magnets and for some unknown reason, get it to a point where all of a sudden the bulbs just hit high intensity light.. It's quite exciting when you get it right and you can tell because the whole room lights up .. I'll try and get it onto video later but it won't show or mean much without a light lux meter. When it does hit this high intense light it does not change the ampage draw... because I can then slowly change the neo magnets to draw around 1.5amps.. if i make the relays pull any less than this then the bulbs instantly go dim again..

Hope this means something to someone.. I thought i better explain in details what is happening.

as far as light output your eyes are the best judge. Peter had suggested using any small solar cell on your meter and place it near one ran off the grid and note the reading, then place it near your circuit and see what the difference in voltage is. Its not a lux meter but it will give you a difference of reading for comparisons. hth

[**~Imhotep~**]

I did run a test today 3 in series and it does work does not matter about matching bulb types, i used all sorts of bulbs. Interesting. The light output spread between the 3 was not as intense as in one bulb. I will be trying adding the other relay and see how it goes on a parallel double coil arrangement and will try charge 2 batteries and let you guys know. Keep up the great work.

[theremart]

Idea...

I have an idea for measuring the light...

Use a solar cell and measure the voltage.

You can also use the power of the solarcell to feed back into the primary battery...

Just a thought.


Mine is not working yet I must be doing something wrong. Gonna give it a break and hit it again later.

[Bodkins]

I do understand what you are doing now. Your breaking the connection on the positive end and using a Bedini with a 555 to pulse the negative end. Interesting. Hows the light output? Does the light output change with the frequency of the 555 or do you have it prewired to a certain frequency, or have you made the 555 adjustable? And as far as the magnet adjustment how does that affect the circuit? what kind of current draw is on your 555. Sorry for firing so many questions but your setup is interesting. As far as your meters going crazy, digital meters will be all over place with this high voltage. Lindemann has said that if you want good results use an analog meters and isolate them with a cap and diode. Then you will get solid readings and accurate readings but there is high voltage all over these circuits from the collapsing fields. have a fun safe trip


i do want to add, you are using your own custom coil, so your results are going to be slightly different and We may not be able to replicate your exactl results. When you get back Def we will have to check that out more.[/QUOTE]


the draw on the 555 is very low i have two resistors so its trigger at the 2n3055 at 1volt i cant read the amp draw my meter will not go so low!
check the link
555 Noise-Maker Kit > Maplin

it got a FET and a has a varible resistor biuld in gos from 20 Hz - 20 kHz which is crap for the small ajustment that we need. Not try ajusting the frequency.
light out is very low, my coil is to big all we need is a small one that can move the reed switch and not pull the power out of the pulse. thats why i think 555may work there, but two will be tricky.

would your relay work there?

Magnet placement.
your have a north pole coil pulse with the magnet pushing the reed together.
them your move the reed across the coil one part of the reed across the coil one part coming at right angle sticking out.move the magnet watch the video its easy.
was thinking of try one on the back of the coil two with another negative from a nickal rode in the ground(earth battery stuff) or from the change battery.
got to go
ps.you like rock im in a band you may like us
MySpace.com - I Pariah - Sheffield, UK - Metal / Rock / Classic Rock - www.myspace.com/ipariah

take care B

[mikkyo]

The magnet on the relay is increasing the oscillation rate, at least in my testing.
I'm sure you guys played with different cap/resistor values before releasing, care to share your results?
I imagine you picked values that were easy to find.
Are we at the ideal for the Radio Shack relay (max oscillation) or are there better values maybe?
That is why I was asking about the impedance of the relay coil, we should be able to calculate the ideal values for highest frequency.
I am wondering if there is a way to take advantage of the other contact on the relay.
Also looking forward to the non-Lite version of this project.

I may build the 555 circuit Bodkins is using this weekend to play with too.
I have a bunch of fans to convert into SSGs as well, still trying to find the ideal setup.
I have some nice MJL21194 transistors to try out too.

[waterhouse24]

Only 1 relay needed to run 2 coils now..

more info in the video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YWcPnwAEVvs

[**~Imhotep~**]

Only 1 relay needed to run 2 coils now..

more info in the video:

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Lite test 3

WOW!!! I love the Light output! I WANT to see your schematic using only one relay and the 2 coils. Are u feeding them through parallel or according to the first schematic i posted?? The meter does add a resistance on voltage measurements most of these digital meters are a megaohm to 10 megaohms which is a very high resistance. the reason they are that high is so that they dont skew your testing results. If you are running it on the 10amp section, which is a separate input it is running through a copper shunt inside the relay which im not really sure of the resistance on the shunt. They are supposed to be like a open circuit but they do have resistance. Which looks like it affects this circuit. I am FLOORED by the light output. Have you been able to tell how many amps you are drawing? Please give us more details. Loved what you have done with this circuit

[**~Imhotep~**]

The magnet on the relay is increasing the oscillation rate, at least in my testing.
I'm sure you guys played with different cap/resistor values before releasing, care to share your results?
I imagine you picked values that were easy to find.
Are we at the ideal for the Radio Shack relay (max oscillation) or are there better values maybe?
That is why I was asking about the impedance of the relay coil, we should be able to calculate the ideal values for highest frequency.
I am wondering if there is a way to take advantage of the other contact on the relay.
Also looking forward to the non-Lite version of this project.

I may build the 555 circuit Bodkins is using this weekend to play with too.
I have a bunch of fans to convert into SSGs as well, still trying to find the ideal setup.
I have some nice MJL21194 transistors to try out too.

Yes the magnet does change the frequency or duty cycle (on time off time) of the relay. I have not measured it free-running to see its frequency. My meter has the capability to do this, its a very expensive true rms fluke that I used when i was in repair.

As far as the cap and resistor you can go from 1uf to 4.7uf possibly even higher and resistance from 100ohm to 1k. All these are available from Radio Shack. This was only added as the snubber to quench some of the arcing. If you choose a different relay, you might not even have to include the snubber if the relay does not arc and you choose the right bulb. The condenser that is across the positive and the negative of the coil was added and then removed and made not much difference. I only included it because i wanted the circuit to have all of the things I had tested on it. If you use the blue relay it is sealed. You can not look at the contacts. On my icecube relay which no one can obtain, I could watch the arcs. Which without the snubber it would arc in a light green arcing pattern. It did not matter if you used 1uf or 4.7uf or the 100ohm or 1k, the arcing ceased. The condenser as i said, was added as a precaution, it is not intricate to the design. Everyone has started adding multiple bulbs and coils and have not looked at the contacts as far as i know. This circuit as far as i know is not in resonance because each bulb you use is different. I left that up to everyones individual measurements to peak its efficiency.

It looks like waterhouse has def stretched the most amount of brightness out of the bulbs so far. I will def watch where he is going with it. As far as going solid state Bodkins is making great progress on that end. We shall see where it goes.
Yes there is a way to use the other contact. You will see very soon on the next release

Happy experimenting

ps : the non-lite version will be released soon, it is a super simple learning tool that you will be able to use to get basic radiant charging and very low desulfation. But it is just a couple of parts, its super simple for those who dont want to mess with the fans. Its great for kids and adults to build and would make a good science fair project. Its not dangerous because there is no super highvoltage, its just in the hundred of volts. It only draws 80ma and runs forever