Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[sirmikey1]

Iquorate, Mike, all..
This video may interest all. He's eliminated the 2n2222. I had already commented on youtube, question if the osc is coming from the earth or the bemf (flyback) from his own circuit. I guess I'll take the long trip to get the real thing (2n2222).
YouTube - Radiant CFL Oscillator 01 - How to make your own
Thanks in advance...
Smikey

[Inquorate]

Joule thief bedini

Hi Mate,

Howd your op go? Obviously you have the use of your fingers

Just wanted to share my view on a couple of points.

I feel that most joule thiefs are HF transformers, but not air core. Most utilize a core of some sort dont they?

And I thought the joule thief does use the collapse, just in a slightly different way. The collapse is present in any circuit that oscillates, the sharper the "off" the harder the collapse.

Regards

Yeah surgery seems to have worked. I've never hooked a jt up to a scope, but I assumed that because there's no recovery diode that the voltage spike would be shuttling energy around inside the circuit, not bringing it in from the outside...

Could be wrong.

[Geek]

Relay charger: 160V output from 12V input, but not useable ???

Hi guys,


I tried your Imhotep relay charger with no success using:

1 x 12V, 2Ah lead-acid fire panel battery for 'drive'
3 x same batteries parallel connected for 'charge'
1 x diode
Earth connection via power socket
12V car relay
No LED


Multimeter readings:

Drive battery = 12.5V
Charge bank of batteries = 10.9 V (residual voltage after depletion through a car headlamp bulb)
Charging terminals with charging batteries connected = 12V
Charging terminals with charging batteries disconnected = 160V


Observation:
The 160V above suggests that the relay is causing surges as desired, also apparent from the disturbed
multi-meter reading appearance. Strangely it is only present after the diode. Before diode is 12.5V
charging battery voltage, so diode appears to step voltage up for some reason.
Earth connection has no effect.
LED ommitted because I do not have one & it appears to only be for indication.
Tried substituting in a wire instead, but this gave the anticipated short-circuit.
Charging terminals lose their high voltage when the load batteries are connected.
Battery bank, when new & charged, lit the lamp for 1.5 hrs.
After discharge & re-charge attempt with this circuit for 2 hrs, bulb lit for only 5 mins,
which was likely just residual charge in discharge bank.
Tried substituting in various loads in place of charging bank: 12v car lamp, 110V drill & 230V house
bulb, but circuit had no effect on any of them.



Conclusion:
Perhaps LED does make a difference, or maybe I have overlooked something else ?



Your comment would be much appreciated.
Thanks.

[sucahyo]

I tried your Imhotep relay charger with no success using:

You need current to charge a battery.

The coil from relay do not produce much current. You can add low impedance coil to the relay and get boosted output. But it may melt your contact.



I now use solid state because it is much silent and much more reliable. I have been running mine for many months. My latest simple version is called stingo.

[Geek]

Many thnx 4 your help, Sucahyo.

Please 4give my ignorance, but your diagram has posed some questions:

1) I assume the fan is the load to be powered, instead of a battery to charge ?

2) Radiant energy supposedly enters circuit via the relay contacts ?

3) Is current flow direction taken as + to -, conventionally although not physically, as we learned in school ?

4) The coil in parallel with the load provides a short path for the current to bypass the load. This seems counter-productive to feeding the load. Does the coil serve any other purpose ?

[sucahyo]

1) I assume the fan is the load to be powered, instead of a battery to charge ?

Sorry, I post the wrong picture, yes it should be a battery.

2) Radiant energy supposedly enters circuit via the relay contacts ?

Via the both coil. The coil with lower impedance produce bigger kick.

3) Is current flow direction taken as + to -, conventionally although not physically, as we learned in school ?

That is not important. What important is to learn what polarity exist in a coil right after we turn it off.

4) The coil in parallel with the load provides a short path for the current to bypass the load. This seems counter-productive to feeding the load. Does the coil serve any other purpose ?

The coil is not in paralel with the load. The coil is in parallel with the relay coil to provide more kick to the load.

The load do not get powered while the relay contact is closed. While the relay contact is closed current will flow to the coil and the real coil. The load will get powered right after the relay contact is open, disrupting the current in both coil. The left over current in the coil will flow to the alternate route we provide, to the load. This kind of electricity has different characteristic.

[Fluxite]

nice work

Hey group

Newbie to post on the forum.

Great work on the circuit.

Is the theory used a square wave input to a coil that produces induction?

Fluxite.com
Pure Energy

[sucahyo]

Is the theory used a square wave input to a coil that produces induction?

Yes. Perfect squarewave give better output.

[Fluxite]

Although I am not a tesla coil expert, my understanding is that it was tuned between the primary and secondary coils.

I expect that both the primary and secondary coils would have output a combined / tuned square wave.

Would this mean that the torus ontop of the coils, output radiant energy as a square wave?

Fluxite.com
Pure Energy

[sucahyo]

Although I am not a tesla coil expert, my understanding is that it was tuned between the primary and secondary coils.

The charger version of mine do not have secondary. I don't think it is required too for Bedini type of replication.

[Geek]

Thanks Guru,

RE: Coil construction

I made the circuit with a coil made from thin enamelled copper thread,
0.125mm (40 swg gauge), 7m long, wrapped round a few 4cm long thin nails.
The coil reached about 150 C hot within a minute & its resistance stopped the relay. I see the mistake was wrapping all the wire round in a compact coil at one end of the nails.
Anything else to take account of in making the coil ?

[Bodkins]

I love this video is helps in understand what we need to do...little magnets on the relay

YouTube - Stationary Magnetic Field Generator with audio

[sucahyo]

Anything else to take account of in making the coil ?

You need to take account about how long your coil stays ON. A powered 1 ohm coil get hot quickly in seconds. Solid state can make it ON at milisecond range and thus keep the coils cool.

You can either big air core coil or small ferrite core coil. With coil impedance maybe between 1 to 6 ohm, depend on your load impedance.

[plengo]

You need to take account about how long your coil stays ON. A powered 1 ohm coil get hot quickly in seconds. Solid state can make it ON at milisecond range and thus keep the coils cool.

You can either big air core coil or small ferrite core coil. With coil impedance maybe between 1 to 6 ohm, depend on your load impedance.

would you share your solid state version schematic? pictures?

Fausto.

[Fjohnnyb]

Bodkin's kickstarter 2 transistor cfl

Hi Guys

I know this thread is "so last season" but I was wondering if I could have some help from one of you pro's...

I have successfully built several things including the Bedini solid state charger and I've made it run CFL's through an ignition coil. I've had lots of fun doing this and saw lots of weird and wonderful effects doing so.

Now I am trying to get Imhotep's Bodkin's Kick Starter CFL circuit going. The one with the 2 transistors and no oscillator. I have everything exactly like the circuit and watched all the video's on it etc. I'm having no joy. It won't oscillate no matter what I do. When I try to kick start the cfl's flash but won't stay lit. The circuit also doesn't continue to draw any current. I have tried various numbers of bulbs from one to 6. I am using a 50 ohm rheostat turned down to 25 ohm and below. I am using a new brand of 2n3055's that seem to be a lot tougher than the ones I've had previously. They can take a hell of a beating before they die. But now I'm wondering if they maybe aren't sensitive enough for this circuit. They work fine in my solid state charger but that's a whole other story...

Any advice? Thanks

Fjohnnyb