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More really good news!! I built the John Bedini oscillator circuit that Jetjis posted and ran the Imhotep Lite using it . It worked great. I added a 5K pot where the 2K resistor went to adjust the frenquency and added my 25 Ohm rheostat where the on/off switch went. I used an AM radio tuned to a null station to tune it. I used a bifiliar coil like I used in my first Lidmotor SSG that had a mismatched coil ratio and it still worked. Here is the video YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator Lite -- Solid State
Cheers,
Lidmotor
Lidmotor,
Excellent demo. I hope to duplicate your results tomorrow, even if I have to wind a new coil. Thanks for keeping the progress going. This is really great!
More really good news!! I built the John Bedini oscillator circuit that Jetjis posted and ran the Imhotep Lite using it . It worked great. I added a 5K pot where the 2K resistor went to adjust the frenquency and added my 25 Ohm rheostat where the on/off switch went. I used an AM radio tuned to a null station to tune it. I used a bifiliar coil like I used in my first Lidmotor SSG that had a mismatched coil ratio and it still worked. Here is the video YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator Lite -- Solid State
Cheers,
Lidmotor
Great...I'll try too using my bifillar coil....
Thanks for sharing this....
More really good news!! I built the John Bedini oscillator circuit that Jetjis posted and ran the Imhotep Lite using it . It worked great. I added a 5K pot where the 2K resistor went to adjust the frenquency and added my 25 Ohm rheostat where the on/off switch went. I used an AM radio tuned to a null station to tune it. I used a bifiliar coil like I used in my first Lidmotor SSG that had a mismatched coil ratio and it still worked. Here is the video YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator Lite -- Solid State
Cheers,
Lidmotor
Excellent work!! I think I will replicate it right now. I have one questions. What was your windings on your coil and did it have a core? Great job!!!
“Let the future tell the truth, and evaluate each one according to his work and accomplishments. The present is theirs; the future, for which I have really worked, is mine.”
More really good news!! I built the John Bedini oscillator circuit that Jetjis posted and ran the Imhotep Lite using it . It worked great. I added a 5K pot where the 2K resistor went to adjust the frenquency and added my 25 Ohm rheostat where the on/off switch went. I used an AM radio tuned to a null station to tune it. I used a bifiliar coil like I used in my first Lidmotor SSG that had a mismatched coil ratio and it still worked. Here is the video YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator Lite -- Solid State
Cheers,
Lidmotor
Well done Lidmotor. I made my attempt yesterday and became frustrated with not having the right resistors on hand. I'm definately going to make this circuit work yet though.
Nice and quiet. I wonder how the number of windings plays into it, or the guage of wire? What kind of frequencies are known to induce vacuum energy the best?
Made a couple more vids using some really good batteries (buddy owns a battery store) they are a dry cell Odyssey PC975 -27ah , they have a cyclic charge rate of 14.4 to 14.8 and a float charge rate of 13.5 to 13.8. I hooked up instruments - amps and volts to primary and secondary banks and include scope shoots of a bifilar coil running the ignition coil and another running the SSG. Videos basically shows the first test with these batteries.
Excellent work!! I think I will replicate it right now. I have one questions. What was your windings on your coil and did it have a core? Great job!!!
Ok--It is a non- standard SSG coil. 250 turns of 26 gauge and 650 turns of 30 gauge. The core is a bunch of nails with epoxy glue. I went to Radio Shack and got the wire and just used what came in the bag. It isn't twisted. I just started wrapping the wire around an empty spool together until I ran out of wire. Somtimes you luck out and simple works.
Ok--It is a non- standard SSG coil. 250 turns of 26 gauge and 650 turns of 30 gauge. The core is a bunch of nails with epoxy glue. I went to Radio Shack and got the wire and just used what came in the bag. It isn't twisted. I just started wrapping the wire around an empty spool together until I ran out of wire. Somtimes you luck out and simple works.
Lidmotor
excellent. I used an air coil with no core, 450 windings each of 32awg and 26. equal windings no twisting. i used a 50k pot, its a little touchy. Used a 25ohm rheostat, 18k 1/8 resistor and 10k 1/2 watt its all i had. Worked right out the gate. drew about 300ma brightness is good. no more click click the bees are gone. love the am trick. Used to use an am as a sniffer when i installed cable with a beeper on the cable line. Had forgot about that trick. Worked great. Love your work.
Thank you for your contribution to the thread everything is running cool.
“Let the future tell the truth, and evaluate each one according to his work and accomplishments. The present is theirs; the future, for which I have really worked, is mine.”
WOW, is all that I can say. I just started reading this thread, and I am pretty sure most are the same, I read the entire thread, before giving up. Will need to go back to pick up some of the finer details.
About 15 years ago, while in electronics class, the teacher was teaching us about using relays as buzzers and how we can use it to pulse a transformer to generate high voltage. We used audio transformer and was able to light T8 tubes only, however it was very dim, but they were fun all the same. Of course, in those days, had no idea that the same ideas would one day come to show itself as something like this. This is just amazing what you guys have done. I still have that circuit somewhere in my pack of stuff, but this is much better and I will have to give it a try.
I don't have an ignition coil yet, however I do have a microwave oven transformer and will be giving that a try, I see that SkyWatcher has already done this earlier in the thread, so should be a starting point, also I like to recycle whenever I can.
On a side note, I am not sure if everyone knows this, but because of the way that these lights are being lit now, you don't need a brand new good bulb to test or light. Getting back to the recycling again, just ask your friends and neighbors for their dead bulbs, it lights just fine. All my test bulbs were gotten free, as they are all dead in the normal sense, but this way, they work just fine.
WOW, is all that I can say. I just started reading this thread, and I am pretty sure most are the same, I read the entire thread, before giving up. Will need to go back to pick up some of the finer details.
About 15 years ago, while in electronics class, the teacher was teaching us about using relays as buzzers and how we can use it to pulse a transformer to generate high voltage. We used audio transformer and was able to light T8 tubes only, however it was very dim, but they were fun all the same. Of course, in those days, had no idea that the same ideas would one day come to show itself as something like this. This is just amazing what you guys have done. I still have that circuit somewhere in my pack of stuff, but this is much better and I will have to give it a try.
I don't have an ignition coil yet, however I do have a microwave oven transformer and will be giving that a try, I see that SkyWatcher has already done this earlier in the thread, so should be a starting point, also I like to recycle whenever I can.
On a side note, I am not sure if everyone knows this, but because of the way that these lights are being lit now, you don't need a brand new good bulb to test or light. Getting back to the recycling again, just ask your friends and neighbors for their dead bulbs, it lights just fine. All my test bulbs were gotten free, as they are all dead in the normal sense, but this way, they work just fine.
yes to get some light it only has to have the gas and one wire (no filament is needed , i even wrapped the wire around the glass tube and it glowed with no extra current draw ,0 current draw!!! ,not real bright but totally free light output plus recovery voltage...) on each endalso ionized the room with negative ions cleaned the air..
“Let the future tell the truth, and evaluate each one according to his work and accomplishments. The present is theirs; the future, for which I have really worked, is mine.”
This is probably why the European CFL had a power factor correction cap in it...I wonder if it was 75w or more bulb? If not, maybe they're voluntarily doing it to all.
"Some appliance manufacturers are incorporating PFC into their finished products. The European Union's International Electro-Technical Commission adopted the IEC61000-3-2 standard that required, by Jan. 1, 2001, all equipment needing 75 W of power or greater and less than 16 A to meet standards for harmonic generation and, thus, meet PFC requirements. Thereafter, Britain, China and Japan adopted similar standards. North America does not presently have these requirements."
This is probably why the European CFL had a power factor correction cap in it...I wonder if it was 75w or more bulb? If not, maybe they're voluntarily doing it to all.
"Some appliance manufacturers are incorporating PFC into their finished products. The European Union's International Electro-Technical Commission adopted the IEC61000-3-2 standard that required, by Jan. 1, 2001, all equipment needing 75 W of power or greater and less than 16 A to meet standards for harmonic generation and, thus, meet PFC requirements. Thereafter, Britain, China and Japan adopted similar standards. North America does not presently have these requirements."
After reading this article I did a quick survey of the electronics that we have here in the house. i have a very small modest home and it appears that 88 out of 110 items are NOT power factor corrected!!
16 solar powered LED garden lights (no pfc needed totally off the grid)
36 cfl's none of them are pfc @ an average of 360 watts un-PFC
Central Air and heat - 220 volt heating element no PFC required
220 compressor unPFC dual 30 amp
110 volt circulation fan un-PFC 20 amps
Dryer,hotwater heater,Range - 220 volt no PFC needed
Microwave,Dishwasher,pool pump, sewing machine well pump washing machine - all of these are un-PFC
10 tv's and monitors, 7 game consoles,6 computers,20+ power tools, 2 stereos - all these appear to be un-PFC also except for the computers that do have an energy star rating on them. I have not tested them as of yet tho.
So the article tries to make it seem like its not worth worrying about pfc, but if you look at just whats in my small home it would be so well worth it. Excellent find Aaron. i was not aware that there are products on the market that claim to correct this. It would be so much simpliar of the manufacturers would take an active interest in this issue and correct it before the products come out. Obviously Europe has already somewhat instituted this so im sure the cost are not that high. It not only helps the consumer, but it helps the environment because we burn less fuels, but it also helps the power companies because of the harmonic distortion and the excessive heat from running un-pfc items damages their equipment. I hope in the future this problem gets corrected. on some of my items I will be pfc them and will be posting results when i accomplish this. On the other items that cannot easily be pfc i will be posting those results as well, and unfort it does appear cfls cannot easily be pfc. I am wondering because the US does have 220 coming into the home if it would be possible to utilize the European 220 volt bulbs here. I will be trying to find out and if anyone already knows this please post and let us know.
“Let the future tell the truth, and evaluate each one according to his work and accomplishments. The present is theirs; the future, for which I have really worked, is mine.”
Quite a few articles talk about it not being worth pfc'ing a home. Some say it is worth it.
We all know a little adds up to a lot.
Lighting is one of the top 4 energy consumers in a home and all the rage is to get everyone on CFL's. If they were all pfc'd from the manufacturer...that is a HUGE relief on the grid.
Heating, cooling and hot water are the other 3 of the top 4.
Anyway, currently, it seems the only way anyone can pf a home is "bulk correction" where you stick a capacitor box on your breaker box. They can work to some extent but a system that in live time switches in and out the right capacitance would be the way to go....aside from the manufacturers simply pf'ing everything before they go out the door.
I went ahead and converted the LB (lunch box) unit to the John Bedini solid state circuit design. Its much better now. Something really usable and reliable. Here is the video of it.
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