Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[hh1341]

Cap Report

I had reported earlier, that caps across the +/- , snuffed out the light.

I have found that the B&S type cap at .24 uf have increased output.
They were originally in the circuit to reduce arcing in the relay,
they are still useful in the SS version.(as seen in Lidmotors unit)
As reported, one should use high voltage caps (killed some low voltage ones)

Putting the cap anywhere in parallel across the +/- seems to work.

Carl

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep Fan/Lite

nice video Lidmotor look like a big fan was it a ac fan then you modified it? or dc what volt?
going to try charge with the light off today to see how it stands up.
i wish it was hotter here so i could make uses of the fan !!

imhotep (the new model has a aluminum cast fan) bedini always used aluminum for his wheel what dos it do differently?

take care all

Bodkins,
The fan I'm using is a 5" that I got in a surplus store for $6 US. Its a 12V rated at .77 amps. It was almost impossible to take apart because of the small round snap ring on the shaft. I finally just hammered on it as a last resort until it let go. The whole project almost stopped because of that one tiny snap ring.

Hoppy,

I have been studying your circuit and description and like what you came up with as a simpler solution. I understand what you did and why. It would be interesting to see what the charging aspects of that circuit are as compared to the pure Bedini design. Also what the pulses look like on a scope. Put Ren's cap pulser on your circuit and it could be very interesting.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[Cyrus]

Hey fellas. Take a look at the schematic i drew. Im trying to charge the same battery with the radiant energy between pulses and its working. The only problem is that the wires going to the primary of coil are getting warm.

It might be just taking too many amps out but let me know what could be the cause of this heat. Anything else that you see here that could be improved let me know as well.

[anut]

Thank you waterhouse24

Here is the diagram:

http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/4...vsupplypv1.jpg

Please, Please take care, this is no toy.

Do not consider this state of the art, the design is 5 years old. My PCB is a surface mount layout, it is a great help.

After reading Tesla stuff, the good thing is that my old experiments led in the right direction, thats probably why this traditional flyback circuit can be regarded a HV experimenters kit to demonstrate unusual effects as described in my previous posts.

I wonder if the apparent over voltage experience is due to a radient event. The ingredients are there, high voltage, sharp transients and high resistance.

Regarding the present circuit, many things can be done to improve it.

More capacitance close to the PCB. Ceramic capacitors very close to the primary current loop. Present 11 capacitors surrounds the primary current loop to ensure low impedance.

A vario supplying DC through a bridge to run to maybe 240 V instead of 24 V for experimenting with higher primary voltage/shorter on time.

Norman Wootan stated "Compress energy in time"

To make it energy efficient, i would consider to use a resonant circuit with diode plug as pre-stage the Hector way.

Another species of transformer.

Power consideration:

It can lit 4 pcs. of 36W tubes to be very bright. at least a factor 3 judged with my eyes. If that is correct, I get 3 * 4 * 36W = 432W light equivalent.

Furthermore I think it could be possible to make 2 sets of 4 serial CFL's and put them in a parallel closed loop. I would not be surprised to see that work.

But this is just talking, I have ordered more tubes and a LUX meter to qualify by numbers.
At that time I will measure the watts also.

The last few days has been exiting for me. But all these questions spinning in my head, has crippled my concentration for my daily work.

Now I have to mobilize some mental strength to meet my deadlines.

Being under time pressure I will only make further directions for the transformer, if I get a request.

@theremart, Thats exactly the video I was talking about, I have made a PCB layout, but I will study the resonance conditions once more before I make the PCB.

These are also the coils used in Prof. Konstantin Meyls experimenter kit propelling the small boat one week during the Tesla exhibition (see prvious post). You can find the user manual on the net. I don't have the link, I got it more than 6 months ago.
This kit has been ordered by many medical doctors according to Meyl.

Eric

I have done quite a lot of single-wire transmission experiments some years ago. I have also read Meyls' work recently. I notice that his concept of single wire transmission apparently dictates that there must be co-resonance between the receiver and the transmitter. This is something I disagree. I also think there are some inconsistencies between his theories and Tesla's theories.

Tesla's single-wire transmission system allows coexistence of several receivers and transmitters. With Tesla's system, it is virtually impossible to achieve co-resonance between several transmitters and several receivers. Another example that Meyls' theory cannot explain is the Avramenko plug. Many experimentalists have successfully tested Avramenko's theory on pure sinusoidal displacement current with positive results. Avramenko's version of single-wire system directly transfers ac into dc and therefore does not require resonance between the transmitter and receiver.

[anut]

Hey fellas. Take a look at the schematic i drew. Im trying to charge the same battery with the radiant energy between pulses and its working. The only problem is that the wires going to the primary of coil are getting warm.

It might be just taking too many amps out but let me know what could be the cause of this heat. Anything else that you see here that could be improved let me know as well.

Have not tried your circuit yet.

Do you know how much dc voltage drop is across each diode?

It seems that, in order for your system to work as "expected", the dc voltage drop across each diode (excluding the spike due to inductive collapse in the circuit) has to be around 24 volts. If this is true, this voltage drop should involve very large current. I might be wrong.

[Cyrus]

Hi anut.

The diods im using are IN4007's

[**~Imhotep~**]

nice video Lidmotor look like a big fan was it a ac fan then you modified it? or dc what volt?
going to try charge with the light off today to see how it stands up.
i wish it was hotter here so i could make uses of the fan !!

imhotep (the new model has a aluminum cast fan) bedini always used aluminum for his wheel what dos it do differently?

take care all

the cast aluminum fan structure dissipates all heat that builds up ,works great . did more refining today and light is bright and is running with the fan at good rpms. this fan is a wind machine ,it pulses the light and charges second battery,all in one box. it must be the fan,why this runs the fan and light ,i was not able to run the fan and light at the same time with the smaller computer fans.

bedini uses aluminum for magnetic reasons i believe. on the bedini wheels if you use chrome (steel rims) it messes with the magnetic field of his design.
i have not built one of the larger wheels but i think it is mentioned to use non metallic supports for wheel and use aluminum rims ,i might be incorrect on those details .

i am finishing up on details of new design now and will continue testing.

[ren]

Bedini Unit, camping edition

6-36v input. Can run just the charger, or charger and light or charger, light and fan. Ill do a vid tonight.

[esaruoho]

Bedini Unit, camping edition

6-36v input. Can run just the charger, or charger and light or charger, light and fan. Ill do a vid tonight.

well keen on this one. its solid state too, isnt it?
what i wonder is, could i use something like this to run a 9v drummachine along with lighting the bulb to see somethin?

[ren]

well keen on this one. its solid state too, isnt it?
what i wonder is, could i use something like this to run a 9v drummachine along with lighting the bulb to see somethin?

Yes, totally solid state. Anything is possible. You will need to check the specs on any electrical equipment you may choose to hook up. But unless you can pulse an inductor there wont be any recovery from a device that just draws from the primary.

Video here.

YouTube - Radiant Oscillator with light and Fan

[**~Imhotep~**]

Yes, totally solid state. Anything is possible. You will need to check the specs on any electrical equipment you may choose to hook up. But unless you can pulse an inductor there wont be any recovery from a device that just draws from the primary.

Video here.

YouTube - Radiant Oscillator with light and Fan

EXCELLENT!! i am getting same effect i use less circuity but the work is the same. great job i like the pulsar design..

[Bodkins]

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging 3

this one for lidmotor
loads wrong with the system but im learning all the time!

[Lidmotor]

The cap pulser on the IROL charge side

YouTube - Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video with pulse charging 3

this one for lidmotor
loads wrong with the system but im learning all the time!

Thanks Bodkins for the video. I now understand what is supposed to happen with the cap pulser. I just have to build it and put it into the main circuit. I did more study on it and the timing on and off is interesting. I guess that the idea is to let the cap charge up to a couple of volts above the charge battery voltage and then quickly zap it into the battery. The cap size and the timmer circuit setting determine how effective it is.

Ren, Great setup!! Lets go camping! I'll bring the bug spray I noticed that yours makes a high pitched sound. Yesterday when I was letting my Fan self-oscillate it did the same thing. Gosh have we traded the "relay beeeeez" for the "Bedini whine"? I read the 24 volt cap pulser thread here a couple times and will start on the build today.

Imhotep, Your aluminum fan sounds like a real good one. Last year I built an air conditioner out of a fan by attaching a coil of tubing to the back of the fan and running cold water thru it. It was crude but it worked. I used it down on the boat on really hot days. I may try that idea on the Bedini fan.

Lidmotor

[esaruoho]

Yes, totally solid state. Anything is possible. You will need to check the specs on any electrical equipment you may choose to hook up. But unless you can pulse an inductor there wont be any recovery from a device that just draws from the primary.

Sorry , i wasnt really writing very clearly . what i meant was, do you think this circuit could be made to run like this:

primary battery - lights light, runs fan, charges multiple batteries - and then in the circuit is a switch to stop the charging of one of the batteries and connect that recharged battery to a device that requires 9V DC? is it a pipedream to think that this circuit could keep batteries charged that would provide for 2300m Amh?

[ren]

Thanks Bodkins for the video. I now understand what is supposed to happen with the cap pulser. I just have to build it and put it into the main circuit. I did more study on it and the timing on and off is interesting. I guess that the idea is to let the cap charge up to a couple of volts above the charge battery voltage and then quickly zap it into the battery. The cap size and the timmer circuit setting determine how effective it is.

Ren, Great setup!! Lets go camping! I'll bring the bug spray I noticed that yours makes a high pitched sound. Yesterday when I was letting my Fan self-oscillate it did the same thing. Gosh have we traded the "relay beeeeez" for the "Bedini whine"? I read the 24 volt cap pulser thread here a couple times and will start on the build today.

Imhotep, Your aluminum fan sounds like a real good one. Last year I built an air conditioner out of a fan by attaching a coil of tubing to the back of the fan and running cold water thru it. It was crude but it worked. I used it down on the boat on really hot days. I may try that idea on the Bedini fan.

Lidmotor

Hi Lid. The whine comes mostly from the fan. Its because I rewound the coils myself and has alot to do with the geometry of it. The little hiccup you can hear at the beginning is the cap pulsing at the frequency determined by the pot. When it is slow it is much more noticeable, dumps @ 16-18v. Speed it up and the sound almost dissapears. More capacitance in certain areas can all but eliminate it. I actually like the little hiccup, it means I acutally have it working like it should, dumping caps! I could only ever hear that noise with really small caps, but with the MLJ21194 in there it will dump larger ones (thanks IDissing )

Thanks Imhotep, look forward to seeing your setup

@ Carl. I tried a much smaller cap across the ignition coil. It does work without the light switching off (10uF). Halves amp draw too, but charging all but dissapears. Still, more investigation needed.

@ Bodkins. Smaller uF caps have less capacitance and thus fill ALOT quicker as you have noted. I am using a 400v 150uF cap paralled with a 2200uF (50v). It reaches high 16's before it dumps, I may put a little more on there yet. More capacitance may need some alterations like I mentioned above to get i shutting properly.