Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[hh1341]

22 Pages

yeah, i hope there'll be a circuit drawn of that snackbox charger+fan+light one day for those of us who can't piece it together out of the 22 pages of this thread

Guys............

The idea is to work through the evolution of these devices, so as to understand them.

Many of the guys that have made big contributions to the development of these circuits are relatively new to electronics, they have worked the problem.

Start with Imhotep's original basic design and work from there......you too, may have a breakthrough and contribute to the overall effort.

Don't leave it to others to carry the freight.


Carl

[Bodkins]

Ok mate, if you think you got something, clean it up and double check with analogue gauges

YouTube - Bodkins Free Energy Radiant Oscillator part 2 no meters

[anut]

Hey fellas. Take a look at the schematic i drew. Im trying to charge the same battery with the radiant energy between pulses and its working. The only problem is that the wires going to the primary of coil are getting warm.

It might be just taking too many amps out but let me know what could be the cause of this heat. Anything else that you see here that could be improved let me know as well.

To cyrus: you need one more switch for the green terminal. Please check the attached picture. Please post back you have any update or new development. Cheers.

[ren]

YouTube - Bodkins Free Energy Radiant Oscillator part 2 no meters

Bodkins, good work. I was never meaning to sound harsh or in disbelief, I just wanted you to confirm everything scientifically. There is a reason why DMM meters can play up (in reference to the amp draw meter as well), I wont go into it here, but trust me on that one. It has alot to do with the oscillating nature of what we are studying here.

But dont fret, they are usually pretty close on amp draw, if they are even oout in the first place. Something else we should consider is that your oscillator is slightly different to mine too in that you have a core in it Carl already confirmed some of the changes that happened when steel was placed inside his air core.

So I tried some variations of what you presented but no luck so far. Interesting to see that your light switches off if linked back to the negative of coil or battery, mine doesnt do that, infact it gets brighter. It will get brighter no matter what terminal you connect it to actually. I have gotten amp draw as low as 100ma with two globes. Mind you thats with the cap pulser ticking away the 555 draws about 40ma I think so that could be the difference. Perhaps it is time to get rid of the cap pulser altogether Less parts, less losses.

I will try some more grounding experiments with a cap etc.

Well done mate.

[hh1341]

Bodkins Ground

Bodkins,

I too am trying your grounding ideas (shoved a copper pipe in the garden)

Not getting any positive results yet.

Work up a schematic for us.

Your ground, is in air......wonder if that makes a diferance.......it's more like an antenna.

Keep up the good work, I think you are on to something.

Carl

[Bodkins]

Ren Thank You!!!

Bodkins, good work. I was never meaning to sound harsh or in disbelief, I just wanted you to confirm everything scientifically. There is a reason why DMM meters can play up (in reference to the amp draw meter as well), I wont go into it here, but trust me on that one. It has alot to do with the oscillating nature of what we are studying here.

But dont fret, they are usually pretty close on amp draw, if they are even oout in the first place. Something else we should consider is that your oscillator is slightly different to mine too in that you have a core in it Carl already confirmed some of the changes that happened when steel was placed inside his air core.

So I tried some variations of what you presented but no luck so far. Interesting to see that your light switches off if linked back to the negative of coil or battery, mine doesnt do that, infact it gets brighter. It will get brighter no matter what terminal you connect it to actually. I have gotten amp draw as low as 100ma with two globes. Mind you thats with the cap pulser ticking away the 555 draws about 40ma I think so that could be the difference. Perhaps it is time to get rid of the cap pulser altogether Less parts, less losses.

I will try some more grounding experiments with a cap etc.

Well done mate.

Ren
The ampdraw is one thing i cant Really monitor at the moment.
I now there may be a problem there.
but dont worry about the voltmeter thing i was talking about from the lights to ground,some bloke on youtube is giving stick, was dirrected to him.
Your a top fella no dout
I also hope carl gets on board.what i see in the scope is big updown two or three then the coil colapse after.like a reset.we dont need these. we need big up and downs(in the future im calling these BUD)
The BUDs need to across the screen Carl may find this? different core who nows!
The setup is simple for you ren!
But i think the key is balance fan coil bulbs the spiral bulb is first the square one after.
The spiral ones are werd in respect to the gounding thing. i think it may chokes it!
4.7k vr and a 1k vr on the tigger
24volt fan
Play with it, mine will not start with the negative connected, if negative to ground it will start in oscillation After i tune it.
Will find out the music key its in.
What im i talking about the frequency is in the video
Lidmotor can tuning his too!!mmmmmmmm maybe the LB to ground ?????
We can all do this to ground.
sorry im getting carryed away.

I love the cap charge i have order stuff to make it,its a good tool to have.
But with this setup i dont think it will works at this stage.


about the cap ren you dont need it just your hand, if the ampdraw gos down and you get more light,bingo
then think how to catch it,a Cap works yes! i going to try a battery next!

Good luck i can sleep tonight nowing that someone is on the job two

[Lidmotor]

Bodkins Earth Energy Experiment

Ren
The ampdraw is one thing i can change Really monitor at the moment.
I now there may be a problem there.
but dont worry about the voltmeter thing i was talking about from the lights to ground,some bloke on youtube is giving stick, was dirrected to him.
Your a top fella no dout
I also hope carl gets on board.what i see in the scope is big updown two or three then the coil colapse after.like a reset.we dont need these. we need big up and downs(in the future im calling these BUD)
The BUDs need to across the screen Carl may find this? different core who nows!
The setup is simple for you ren!
But i think the key is balance fan coil bulbs the spiral bulb is first the square one after.
The spiral ones are werd in respect to the gounding thing. i think it may chokes it!
4.7k vr and a 1k vr on the tigger
24volt fan
Play with it, mine will not start with the negative connected, if negative to ground it will start in oscillation After i tune it.
Will find out the music key its in.
What im i talking about the frequency is in the video
Lidmotor can tuning his too!!mmmmmmmm maybe the LB to ground ?????
We can all do this to ground.
sorry im getting carryed away.

I love the cap charge i have order stuff to make it,its a good tool to have.
But with this setup i dont think it will work at this stage.


about the cap ren you dont need it just your hand, if the ampdraw gos down and you get more light,bingo
then think how to catch it,a Cap works yes! i going to try a battery next!

Good luck i can sleep tonight nowing that someone is on the job two

Bodkins,

I replicated your experiment and made a video of it. Because I had a Fan Bedini I though that I had a good chance of seeing good results and I did. After I got it to work I went back and ran the experiment with my little 2 watt solar panel, no batteries, a couple caps, and no meters. Because I have the 25 ohm rheostat and the 1K pot in my circuit I was able to get the resonance frequency just right to replicate the effect. Outside of the correct frequency and the CFL wouldn't light or it would light the same as if I connected it straight to the coil negative. I did not charge up a capacitor on the ground lead to see that effect nor did I see a drop in amp draw when I connected to the ground. What I did notice was that high voltage was everywhere encluding the + and - of the drive source? Watch your fingers! I took some HV shocks today from places where there shouldn't be any. The thing was charging outstanding on the back end. No cap pulser needed. Thank you Mother Earth. What all this means--I have no idea.
Here is the Video:
YouTube - Bodkins Earth Energy Experiment --Replication

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[nat1971a]

Wow - Amazing

This is AMAZING!!!! Well done bodkins & Lidmotor. AWESOME

PLEASE post a full schematic so that others can replicate.

I will start converting a fan.......

Cheers

Nat

[sirmikey1]

Using the earth as ground seems to show that the
voltage is atmospheric, HV bleeding all over the place.
"Don't fence me in"

I'm guessing that the load was much lower also,
which explains the improved charging.

SM

[ren]

Just a pointer for those tinkering with this. Make sure your amp draw gauge is the only connection to the battery and that you dont accidently bypass it! I got excited for a second when I lit two bulbs bright for 20ma, only to realise that the ignition coils positive wasnt running through the gauge

[ashtweth]

This is AMAZING!!!! Well done bodkins & Lidmotor. AWESOME

PLEASE post a full schematic so that others can replicate.

I will start converting a fan.......

Cheers

Nat

Hi Nat, the Sch is shown in the video, you can also see it in the new updated Doc. Panacea University Tesla's High Voltage impulse lighting methods - Imhotep's radiant oscillator (PDF) - updated September 15 2008

Just when you think this has gone some where, out comes Ren and Lid and bodkins who are prob gonna turn this into a LOL, that lunch box is going to be a banquet buffet box soon

[Soldyur]

Bodkins Schematic

Is there a schematic of the Bodkins grounded circuit that Lidmotor just replicated? It looks pretty simple and efficient. What about the draw is it lower than the other circuits?

Jason

[ren]

Hi Nat, the Sch is shown in the video, you can also see it in the new updated Doc. Panacea University Tesla's High Voltage impulse lighting methods - Imhotep's radiant oscillator (PDF) - updated September 15 2008

Just when you think this has gone some where, out comes Ren and Lid and bodkins who are prob gonna turn this into a LOL, that lunch box is going to be a banquet buffet box soon

More ufo info for you Ash. Just hooked up the cap pulser to return to the source. Doesnt charge the source, but drops amp draw significantly. on 12v maximum amperage was 300ma, now its maximum 100ma. The light will stay lit down to about 30ma where it ceases. Whats even better is on 24v it used to be maximum 500-600ma, now its 130ma max for double the brightness of 12v. Same with 36v, 150ma max, can be alot lower if light output isnt too much of a concern.

So perhaps the cap pulser is still useful, if one wants a single battery efficient unit. All of this and I still havent grounded directly to ground a la Bodkins. I live 30 feet off the ground Tarzan style so I may have to rig something up.

If you want to experiment guys just place a largish cap over the input and have the cap pulser connect directly to this. Could be cool, if you want to run off one battery it does, but if you want to charge, say off a solar panel etc then unhook the cap pulser and charge another battery.

[ashtweth]

>I live 30 feet off the ground Tarzan style so I may have to rig something up


wholly Cow mate, that is a significant drop obviously, makes me think of energy from the vacuum 5, where he is talking about the restriction of current lets the Vacuum energy in, its all dipole blah blah theories , but Beardon actually gives you a way of making (ideas only) a wire that helps this, prob is its Aluminum and coper, and needs an inert atmosphere (expensive to make).Seems like your doing it practical there Ren

[Agongon]

Grounding Tips

Carl, Bodkins, Lidmotor:

To get a good grounding connection, a long copper rod is needed about 9 feet in lenght underground. Copper tubings use in airconditioning/refrigeration can be used. Then about a half foot just above the ground, clean the other end of the ground copper rod to a shiny one. Solder your wire onto it and insulate it with whatever insulating materials you have (PVC tape, varnish, PVC glue for connecting PVC pipe, etc). This is done to have grounding contacts "foolproof".

This is just a suggestion. We can always modify but the idea is to get a good ground and a solid contact.

A capacitor bank then can be done connected to it. Goodluck to everyone.