Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[hh1341]

Thank You

Thank you for this!!

This is a great breakthrough!

I am shopping for a coil.
Would it be safe to say that low resistance/high voltage would be a good thing?

I see one at 48K and .6 Ohms. (would low ohms indicate no resister?)
I see another at 60K.

Is your oscillator to come, using this coil?

Carl

[**~Imhotep~**]

The reason I gave the specs on the resistance was so that if you wanted to replicate my results exactly same brightness same current draw it would be easily be able to accomplish, even if you could not get the exact coil you could get the dc resistance pretty close and match results pretty close.

The reason i used a relay was so you would not have to build the circuit you can also use scr's, transistors,555 timers, FET's with some having less current draw and some having more, some requiring heatsinks and more circuitry. I wanted it to be very simple and very easy thats why I went the method i did, you can use any components you want, possibly even microwave transformer is place of the coil. The sky's the limit.

The concept is yours to experiment with. But if you match the components as closely as you can as i provided you will get the same results, which is really good brightness, low current draw and charging up a second battery.

Thank you for this!!

This is a great breakthrough!

I am shopping for a coil.
Would it be safe to say that low resistance/high voltage would be a good thing?

I see one at 48K and .6 Ohms. (would low ohms indicate no resister?)
I see another at 60K.

Is your oscillator to come, using this coil?

Carl

[elias]

What does a condensor do?

I was wondering, what does a condensor do and what is it anyway? Is it necessary?

[hh1341]

A condenser is a capacitor.....that is, if you know what a capacitor is.

condenser (electronics)

Carl

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator

Thanks for doing this. It is going to help a lot of people. I'll try building one for use on my cruising sailboat. I'm already using a Bedini SSG to help charge batteries and this device should help with the lighting needs. I'm already using a 12 volt fluorescent light onboard. If this reduces the power consumtion, that will be great. I may have to sound proof the relay though. The constant clicking might be annoying.

[waterhouse24]

once you charge your lantern batteries can you then swap them over to re-charge the acid batteries?

Also those with more electrical experience if you do improve on this could you kindly give some easy instructions and a schematic so we can all move forward with this thanks

[Tecstatic]

I wanted it to be very simple and very easy thats why I went the method i did

I fully agree it is important to keep the first circuit as simple as possible, so it is easy to build and get started.

Unfortunately I have no ignition coil and no high voltage diode.

I have a relay with two sets of contacts, and I have modified the circuit so I use the first set for making the relay an oscillator.

The second set is used so I get a circuit like in the water spark plug except for no double contacts. So the middle leg of the contact connected to the condenser (not snubber condenser) chooses between the supply or the primary. A three contact set relay ( two coil pins + 3 * 3 pins) would be perfect, one set replacing the 555 for oscillator function and the remaining two sets used exactly as in Aarons water spark plug circuit, just replacing the spark plug with the fluorescent bulb.

I wonder how that would work, if I had the materials I would have tried it already.

Eric

[Tecstatic]

I forgot to mention I removed the relay cover and reduced the contact clearance for max. light intensity on the capacitor/primary contact set.

Eric

[amigo]

Imhotep,

I have couple of questions about this project:

- The use of that specific relay in the circuit is accidental or is there a reason for that specific one?
-- Could we use any mini or non-mini relay for that matter?

- Is there a reason to even use a relay and could we just replace this with solid state?

- Is there something special about the Briggs & Stratton capacitor or can we use an alternative one (what is the Farad value of the capacitor and its rated voltage)?

- How come are the values of the snubber different between the first schematics shown and the text/other schematics in the video (1uf + 1K vs. 4u7 + 100ohm)?

- In the schematic there is a diode leading to the secondary battery from the negative net, what is the value of that diode?

- Looking at the video, something that looks like a HV diode is first connected up to the secondary (HV) output of the ignition coil and then through it the CFL is connected on the other end. Is that correct and if so:
-- What is the rating for the HV diode?
-- Can it be replaced with a series of standard diodes (ie. 10x1N4007 instead of one HV one)

Thanks in advance.

[elias]

A condenser is a capacitor.....that is, if you know what a capacitor is.

condenser (electronics)

Carl

Thanks!
Yes I know, but the thing in the video seems like some special one, I could not recognize it. I suppose it is used to bypass the DC? And light the tube with pure AC? And feed the DC spike to the Battery on the front end?

Elias

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator

Hi. I made a replication and it works great!!!! See my video at my Lidmotor channel at Youtube. YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --my replication . Thanks go out to everyone envolved. This is a real winner.

[hh1341]

That condenser, is the type found in a lawn-mower engine.

Looks like any one out of a points type ignition, would do.

It's job was to stop the points from arcing.

Carl

[**~Imhotep~**]

The relay is the one that Peter Lindemann used and is widely available. The one I originally used was from the 70's. and is no longer available and the one from the 70's drew the least amount of current. but the one from radioshack was the mostly closed match. You can use any relay you want as long as the contacts can handle it, and the coil current draw doesnt matter you. Remember you are trying to impedance match the primary and the coil on the relay, the better the impedance match the lower the current draw, but you can use whatever one you want, your batteries might not last as long, and you can also use larger batteries. There is energy recovery on it. The first one i did i ran 72 hours straight and it did not run down the batteries but because the extremely high voltage the light output on the very first 9 watt cfl had diminished light output prematurely. So matching the bulb is also important. Its all a journey and a experiment. the bulbs are cheap, the relays are cheap and the coils arent that expensive either. Through experimentation im sure you will find the perfect match and possibly be able to light the 4 foot regular magnetic ballast fluorescent bulbs if you get the proper match.

You do not have to use a relay I used it for simplicity. You can use a 3055 transistor in self oscillation mode but you would have to use a heat sink and the current draw would be much higher, 555 timer and a FET, you can use a SCR. you can use a small dc motor with a magnet on the armature and a reed relay, anything to pulse the primary. Doesnt even matter what frequency. But remember you will have to experimented to get the best match for the longest lasting ability of the bulb, lowest current draw and brightest light output. Feel free to experiment. and report any good findings to help other people. I experimented on this circuit for 2 months. As well as a month with Peter. Trying to get the lowest current draw, easiest design, best light output, and longest battery life.


you can use any condenser, the reason i picked that one was because the original 1967 camera condenser was 18 dollars and the briggs and stratton kit came with the condenser and the spark plug i can use on the water spark plug experiment and it was only 3 dollars. It was strictly cost. I tried to search for the value and voltage handling capability of the condensers and was not able to find any values or voltages published anywhere. And I did not put it on my capacitance meter because of the size. Im sure it will handle the primary voltage the briggs and stratton one was actually designed for a magneto so its voltage handling was prob quite large, but you can substitue a large cap and try it. Its only there to suppress the arcing on the relay. So the contacts will last longer.

The snubber is variable also, the original snubber i used was 4.7 with 100 ohm resistor that was on the old 70's relay the radioshack blue relay i used the 1uf and 1k resistor. The blue one was also sealed since there is no oxygen getting to you the contacts will probaly last longer cause its sealed.


the diode is a 1n4007. 1000 volt 2 amp. Its used for energy recovery it puts out pretty good spikes for the charge battery.

There is no hv diode. I used the original spark plug wire because it has a capacitance value. And a certain resistance you can use a smaller wire but your voltage will be lower and your current consumption will be different. When i used the smaller clip lead wire, normally when you grab the outside of a plug wire while its firing you will get a nasty shock. So be careful, but with the smaller clip lead wire you get no shock when you grab the wire. its running much lower voltage, probably 400 to 700 volt range.
good luck in your research

Imhotep,

I have couple of questions about this project:

- The use of that specific relay in the circuit is accidental or is there a reason for that specific one?
-- Could we use any mini or non-mini relay for that matter?

- Is there a reason to even use a relay and could we just replace this with solid state?

- Is there something special about the Briggs & Stratton capacitor or can we use an alternative one (what is the Farad value of the capacitor and its rated voltage)?

- How come are the values of the snubber different between the first schematics shown and the text/other schematics in the video (1uf + 1K vs. 4u7 + 100ohm)?

- In the schematic there is a diode leading to the secondary battery from the negative net, what is the value of that diode?

- Looking at the video, something that looks like a HV diode is first connected up to the secondary (HV) output of the ignition coil and then through it the CFL is connected on the other end. Is that correct and if so:
-- What is the rating for the HV diode?
-- Can it be replaced with a series of standard diodes (ie. 10x1N4007 instead of one HV one)

Thanks in advance.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hi. I made a replication and it works great!!!! See my video at my Lidmotor channel at Youtube. YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --my replication . Thanks go out to everyone envolved. This is a real winner.

WOW EXCELLENT!!!

I wrapped this relay in a wash cloth to silence it, shiva works on the phones and the room has to be silent and I have had it running when she works. Trust me she would say something if it wasnt quiet enough

If you think this one is loud wait till next week, I have one or 2 other circuits that are only a couple of parts that make a WHOLE lot of noise. But you can do the same thing with these next circuits.

Great idea on the rheostat!! love the dimmer ability.

[amigo]

Imhotep,

thanks for the reply, I'm clear now.

I also wonder if the circuit below is sound or not. It is really simple, we charge a capacitor from the inductive kick and then switch back to discharge it on our primary battery.

I suppose the capacitor would have to be a fast one, camera flash one for example, but the principle is what interests me now.