Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[**~Imhotep~**]

new vid with Peter's discovery and evidence and testing procedure. the corrective process will be released shortly after i get some sleep i am working 25 hours a day!!! YouTube - Free Energy Important News Bulletin

[Jetijs]

Hello my friends
Finally I got some free time to play with Imhotep's radiant oscillator. I also made a video:

YouTube - My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator

I used an adjustable power supply, this way I could try out different voltages. I used a 12V 40A rated relay, the snubber cap is rated 450V 2.2uF, I used a 1K resistor. The condenser consists of two 450V 2.2uF caps in series. The recovery diode is 1N4007. There is no resistance in the ignition coil wire. I used a 24W bulb. I can't get the voltage too high, because this dramatically increases the amp draw from the power supply and there is no point in using more amps, because this does not increase the light output. At first I had to turn the voltage up to about 5V, this is the voltage at which the oscillations start, but at that voltage the amp draw is about 4-5A. When the oscillations have started, I can turn the voltage down to 3.3V, this reduces also the amp draw and this is the lowest voltage that I can get without loosing the light intensity and smooth relay operation. The bulb glows dimly, maybe at about 25% the rated brightness. Don't be fooled by the light intensity in the video, because it only appears bright, but in reality the light intensity is less. Still a good light output for 1.65W of input power. And I still get about half of that out on the recovery battery Another thing that I forgot to mention, I loosened the relay spring a bit so that the relay can fire at lower voltages.
Thanks Imhotep and Peter
Will play some more

[ren]

Hello my friends
Finally I got some free time to play with Imhotep's radiant oscillator. I also made a video:

YouTube - My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator

I used an adjustable power supply, this way I could try out different voltages. I used a 12V 40A rated relay, the snubber cap is rated 450V 2.2uF, I used a 1K resistor. The condenser consists of two 450V 2.2uF caps in series. The recovery diode is 1N4007. There is no resistance in the ignition coil wire. I used a 24W bulb. I can't get the voltage too high, because this dramatically increases the amp draw from the power supply and there is no point in using more amps, because this does not increase the light output. At first I had to turn the voltage up to about 5V, this is the voltage at which the oscillations start, but at that voltage the amp draw is about 4-5A. When the oscillations have started, I can turn the voltage down to 3.3V, this reduces also the amp draw and this is the lowest voltage that I can get without loosing the light intensity and smooth relay operation. The bulb glows dimly, maybe at about 25% the rated brightness. Don't be fooled by the light intensity in the video, because it only appears bright, but in reality the light intensity is less. Still a good light output for 1.65W of input power. And I still get about half of that out on the recovery battery Another thing that I forgot to mention, I loosened the relay spring a bit so that the relay can fire at lower voltages.
Thanks Imhotep and Peter
Will play some more

Nice Jet Tell me when you say no resistance on the ignition coil wire do you mean the primary?

[Jetijs]

Hi ren
What I meant was that there was almost zero resistance in the high voltage wire (that with the thick insulation) that is coming out of the HV terminal of the induction coil. I have seen several HV wires that have a resistor in them, I also once had a HV wire that are made of carbon fiber instead of the copper wire, such a cable had a resistance of 3-4K Ohms.

[Tecstatic]

My 230V 23W CFL bulb circuit reverse engineered.

Just in case it can be to some help, I reverse engineered the diagram from the PCB for my power factor corrected 230V 23W CFL bulb.

Capacitor C8 is missing because I use it in my replication.

Eric

[**~Imhotep~**]

Too Awesome! Excellent specs! We knew you would have it replicated pretty quickly tho.

I wanted to remind everyone This circuit is still very much a work in progress. We have it doing the basic things we want it to, light a bulb and recharge a battery now its just a matter of fine tuning it so it has the least amount of current draw as possible with the highest amount of light output. For the light I have setup when we turn off all the lights in the house and just run the light it is enough to fill the room where you can see. Enough to read or even work by. We will be using our for emergency situations and i think if we have it set up right with a reflector it will help boost the output. You cant have the reflector too close tho otherwise it reflects the light back into the bulb and not in the room. There has been alot of research that the older long tubes had to the reflectors too close so alot of the newer ones have the higher dome reflector to force the light into the room instead of back into the bulb. We also will be trying a dual coil or coil pack one to see if that increases the light. Some of the 4 cylinder coilpacks would be good to use in a 2 bulb push pull design for the bigger 4 foot fixtures. As long as the current draw is comparable and we still keep the good spikes going for a recharge battery.

Over time it will all unfold.

Hello my friends
Finally I got some free time to play with Imhotep's radiant oscillator. I also made a video:

YouTube - My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator

I used an adjustable power supply, this way I could try out different voltages. I used a 12V 40A rated relay, the snubber cap is rated 450V 2.2uF, I used a 1K resistor. The condenser consists of two 450V 2.2uF caps in series. The recovery diode is 1N4007. There is no resistance in the ignition coil wire. I used a 24W bulb. I can't get the voltage too high, because this dramatically increases the amp draw from the power supply and there is no point in using more amps, because this does not increase the light output. At first I had to turn the voltage up to about 5V, this is the voltage at which the oscillations start, but at that voltage the amp draw is about 4-5A. When the oscillations have started, I can turn the voltage down to 3.3V, this reduces also the amp draw and this is the lowest voltage that I can get without loosing the light intensity and smooth relay operation. The bulb glows dimly, maybe at about 25% the rated brightness. Don't be fooled by the light intensity in the video, because it only appears bright, but in reality the light intensity is less. Still a good light output for 1.65W of input power. And I still get about half of that out on the recovery battery Another thing that I forgot to mention, I loosened the relay spring a bit so that the relay can fire at lower voltages.
Thanks Imhotep and Peter
Will play some more

[Jetijs]

Imhotep, what happens if the charging battery is removed from the circuit? I just did not try this out and the next chance to experiment will be only after tomorrow

[**~Imhotep~**]

if you remove the charging battery out of the circuit the current draw might go up a little bit, but there is no semi conductors to be damaged from the removal of the battery like the fans. Be careful tho, on my 1st experiment i was testing to see if would charge alkalines and i used fully charged alkalines and it burst their seals because the spikes are so robust on my particular relay configuration. In my configuration i made sure that the end of wrap on the coil went to the positive end of wrap on the relay and the beginning of wrap went to the shared beginning of wrap on the coil which is ground. That might have made a difference.

Good Luck Im sure you will improve it.

[Bodkins]

My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator in a 555 timer trigger on a standed bedini circiut, only a 3min test to see if it worked.the draw was 0.50amps and very good brightness on a 7watt philips bulb(U.K).
the coil i pickup for free at the local garage and it charged the second battery to.
the transitor did heatup but i think its can take it with only 0.50amp draw.
i take my hat off to you Imhotep your a star.

[**~Imhotep~**]

My replication of Imhotep's radiant oscillator in a 555 timer trigger on a standed bedini circiut, only a 3min test to see if it worked.the draw was 0.50amps and very good brightness on a 7watt philips bulb(U.K).
the coil i pickup for free at the local garage and it charged the second battery to.
the transitor did heatup but i think its can take it with only 0.50amp draw.
i take my hat off to you Imhotep your a star.

awesome! would love to see some vid and a schematic showing everyone how you wired the 555 timer. you may want to try adding a heatsink to the transistor, it should help with the heat buildup

[Bodkins]

got a heatsink on it, the 555 is form maplin easy build.

555 Noise-Maker Kit > Maplin

got some resistor on it to cut down the voltage to 1v

i dont have caps on or a condenser.i tryed a cap parrall but its made no differents.(i think)
the whole setup tuk 5 mins tops

will try and vid it all in the next couple of days but times short.

[waterhouse24]

sorry for my complete newby knowledge about condensers but I have a condenser here with one wire coming out of the top.. Is the actual metal surface of the condenser the other connection?

[**~Imhotep~**]

sorry for my complete newby knowledge about condensers but I have a condenser here with one wire coming out of the top.. Is the actual metal surface of the condenser the other connection?

yes the case is the other connection, considered the negative end

[waterhouse24]

Yay my working replication!!!!

YouTube - Free Energy Radiant Oscillator Lite Replication

[Jetijs]

waterhouse - very nice
I can't get my light bulbs to shine that bright. What id the amp draw from your primary battery?
I tried out three different relays and had the same results with all of them. The oscillations start at about 5-7V and the amp draw at this voltage is about 4-6A. If I increase the input voltage, the amp draw increases dramatically up to 10A an then the contacts start to stick together. I tried different induction coil and various condenser capacities with almost the same results. Also I tried to disconnect the charging battery on the fly to see if there is any difference in the light intensity - there was not, also the amp draw stayed about the same. Can't figure out how you guys are getting just 1A at 12v. I can get 1A current draw at about 3.5v. I also tried different light bulbs, some of them are working better, some worse, but I still can't get even a half of the normal brightness of these bulbs. Any ideas?