Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[Tecstatic]

Can anyone explain what happens with two coils.

Waterhouse24 wrote:

Yes when I first got the BMW coil i tested it and it was the same brightness.

Thank you for a swift answer.

If this is all about voltage pressure and not current, I don't see from a standard view how this effect goes. There must be some interaction between the coils.

A scope shot would be nice, maybe it just increases "on" time of the HV.
Any other explanation ?

Eric

[elias]

controlling the current draw

Hi everyone,

There is a simple way to decrease the current draw, without using a neo magnet and it is using a 100 ohm resistor series with a potentiometer. The combination must be wired in series with the relay coil. (Only the relay coil, and not the relay switch, in this way we are increasing the time constant of the inductor resistor combination)

I managed to bring down the current draw of my circuit down to around 0.38-0.39 Amps from 1.13A without affecting the light output.

Hope this helps,
I can post a schematic if it is not descriptive enough.

Elias

[Peter Lindemann]

As You Can See....

One of my coils is a Delco Remoy (Number on side is79526666) and the latest addition is a coil from a BMW 316 (K Registration)

I've connected up the charging battery and the light is still as strong but the relay is still get very hot. I think I may have fried one of them

Waterhouse24,

You are doing excellent work. Thank you for posting your results here for the rest of us to learn from. Oh, and by the way, ALL GOOD ENGINEERS have a pile of burned out parts on their bench. If they don't, its because they never really tested the limits of their circuits!

As you can see, the energy available in the inductive collapse must be given a path to discharge. If you don't give it a battery to charge, or somewhere else to go, it will simply discharge back across your relay contacts and burn them out. You can also see that the light generated by your circuit is the SAME whether you collect the return energy or not.

Most circuits are designed to WASTE this energy, by throwing it away. This is illustrated perfectly in the link to the DIY Ignition Driver a few posts earlier. Here, the circuit designer just uses a reverse diode to short the reverse pulse of the primary coil out with D1 across the transistor T2. Then we are told that it just takes that much energy to power our load. When the circuit is built properly, you can see a much more interesting TRUTH. The truth is, most of the energy in the circuit is NOT used to light the CFL, and is, in fact, available to be recovered and used again. All of the same tricks that have been discussed in the Electric Motor Secrets thread, are applicable here to light the CFL. Once the arc is struck, the lighted gas in the CFL has almost no resistance at all. That means that it is nearly impossible to drop any power across it! The energy invested in creating the magnetic field in the primary of the ignition coil is not used to light the bulb, and this energy is mostly available to be recovered in the circuit provided for that function.

Keep up the Great Work!!

Peter

[Peter Lindemann]

Excellent

Hi everyone,

There is a simple way to decrease the current draw, without using a neo magnet and it is using a 100 ohm resistor series with a potentiometer. The combination must be wired in series with the relay coil. (Only the relay coil, and not the relay switch, in this way we are increasing the time constant of the inductor resistor combination)

I managed to bring down the current draw of my circuit down to around 0.38-0.39 Amps from 1.13A without affecting the light output.

Hope this helps,
I can post a schematic if it is not descriptive enough.

Elias

Elias,

This is GREAT. By placing the resistor in series with the relay coil, you are making the field generated slightly weaker. This shortens the time the relay is shorted and conducting full power to the ignition coil. This simple modification provides PWM control of the relay!!!

This is also strong evidence of our basic thesis. The CFL is being lit by the "voltage punch-up" or "longitudinal shock wave" or "radiant energy spike" in the system, and NOT the amount of current used by the circuit!

You guys are GREAT!!!

Peter

[**~Imhotep~**]

Thank you Peter for your insightful explanations. I love where this circuit is going. As I said before this circuit was brought to the right place. You guys are AWESOME!!

[waterhouse24]

Thanks Peter but all the thanks goes to Imhotep and yourself for bringing such a great project to the public

At the end of the day, this is my 2nd ever circuit and without Imhotep's benini fan and this, I would have never touched a soldering iron

[waterhouse24]

Hi everyone,

Hope this helps,
I can post a schematic if it is not descriptive enough.


Elias

Yes please, i'm not sure where you mean

[Jetijs]

Hi all
Well, I just tried the water spark circuit on the CFL. There is no difference in light output whether you use an ordinary capacitor discharge spark or the intensified spark with the HV diode attached.
Thanks.

[elias]

Yes please, i'm not sure where you mean

Here is the schematic.

[waterhouse24]

Here is the schematic.

thanks so you have to get inside the relay to make the change? (sorry for my lack of knowledge.. but i think this will help with my heating problem..)

[**~Imhotep~**]

no you dont, you just have to take one leg of the coil wire on the relay and hook the resister and potentiometer in series, take either the left or right pin pout of the three pins on the pot and center pin that will give you wiper control. to adjust it. Just like on the fan where you chose one side pin on the potentiometer and the center pin. And then hook the contact pin as elias has it i think on the center pin of the potentiometer and you should be good to go

[elias]

thanks so you have to get inside the relay to make the change? (sorry for my lack of knowledge.. but i think this will help with my heating problem..)

Just as Imhotep said. And I think it may help with your heating problem, because mine was heating too. It now heats less.

[Tecstatic]

Thanks for testing

Jetijs wrote:

Well, I just tried the water spark circuit on the CFL. There is no difference in light output whether you use an ordinary capacitor discharge spark or the intensified spark with the HV diode attached.

Thanks for testing, I don't see why the spark gets intensified, but the CFL not, maybe it is a matter of impedance.

I will receive a bunch of high voltage diodes in a few days, so I will try to see if I can figure out why.

I did test the spark plug some weeks ago. I got some very loud bangs with 250 V on both capacitors, the boost capacitor being two large 330uF oil filled caps capable of delivering thousands of amps. With water on the plug I preferred wearing ear protection.

With my home made coil and the diodes I have, I never succeeded getting the intensified spark by adding HV diodes.

I have ordered a pair of relays to replace my burnt relay. One relay ( Omron G5NB-1AE 12DC ) has a coil resistance of 720 ohms. I look forward to test that.

Eric

[boguslaw]

555 is good choice, but AFAIK car coil may not be the best for lighting. It has some low resonance frequencies, probably up to 1 or 10khz if I good remember, depending on coil.


To light more bulbs just connect them in series and use insulated plate at the end of chain. Voltage will be raised.

There is other possibility to light more bulbs : higher frequency.

[**~Imhotep~**]

Hi everyone,

There is a simple way to decrease the current draw, without using a neo magnet and it is using a 100 ohm resistor series with a potentiometer. The combination must be wired in series with the relay coil. (Only the relay coil, and not the relay switch, in this way we are increasing the time constant of the inductor resistor combination)

I managed to bring down the current draw of my circuit down to around 0.38-0.39 Amps from 1.13A without affecting the light output.

Hope this helps,
I can post a schematic if it is not descriptive enough.

Elias

Just a quick question, Are you using a 1/8th watt, a 1/4 watt or half watt resister in series with the potentiometer? And does the resister heat up? Before I wire it i have tons of stock but that would make things quicker. I am going to try and do an update with everyones advancements. Great work