Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[theremart]

If hh1341 is correct, I believe there is 2 filaments in there and they share the case as a ground. So what you are possibly doing is passing through both filaments and because they share a common ground, you are getting current flow through the connection. You have actually created a super inexpensive balast resister. My balast resister cost 18 dollars. You have most likely saved people 16 bucks if they wanted to limit the current in the circuit. Very interesting The 60ma draw is also ASTOUNDING!!!!


I am floored. It looks like your light output is also great. And yours and lidmotors charging rates are exactly as i had experienced. The spikes are incredible. And lidmotor is correct you probably need to throw it in a large battery. I have burst the seals of alkalines. I dont recommend using the alkalines for any length of time. Especially with 2 coils. GREAT PROGRESS!!!

You are right,

amazing what a little sleep will do for you, what I have done since they share a common ground what i have done is wire them in series. This reminds me of a video where a a guy keep tuning his setup by continually adding light bulbs till the load matched the source........ Reminds me of PF.... Just like the Roto verter matches the bank of capacitors to the load...... We might have a trend here...

Back to bed more zzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....

[theremart]

Building now

Robert Jackson

Ideas for wacky non solar power form panels, also don't forget you can confine the photons with reflective material and power a solar panel

The Idea...Low current in to create the spike[s]to light the CFL, can
charge a battery too(already working doing that), then the photons on
the CFL are added in a CONFINED reflective space to power the solar
panel. LOOP THE SOLAR BACK TO ADD TO CHARGING BATTERY OPERATING THE
IGNITI0ON COILS..

I meantioned earlier in the thread the idea of Solar panels... but I am thinking more to the tune of FULL SPECTRUM CFL. Perhaps these would allow a higher voltage to the solar panel? I am thinking we somehow focus... maybee with a frenzle lense the frequency of light to the exact wavelenght that the solar cell demands..... sorta like a prism that breaks pure light down to the many colors perhaps we could do the reverse.. brainstorming..

But right now I have 3 solar panels.... I could hook up 3 more cfls in seriers and put them directly over the panels I have so they would charge 24/7 even in winter when it is dark here!.

Just did a test. 5 Watt panel to a 110 CFL yeilded 18V. Tested my modified CFL not at its brightest got 2V. At least now this will give me a standard for brightness of the bulb for tunning, the higher the voltage the closer I am to a 110 bulb.

[ashtweth]

Mart what about making an Alu reflector and isolating the Light? should give you more bang for your buck

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator--resistance value on relay pot

Imhotep, I'm really sorry that you didn't find that 15 turn 1K pot. I really wanted you to try it. I think any 1k pot will work but the sensitivity of the 15 turn lets you squeeze down on the current draw with precision. I measured the resistance across the pins on the relay and it is set at 650 ohms. I didn't unsolder the pot yet to check the resistance. However if the light stops you have to open up the pot to get the light started again then turn it down. If you are using the little neos on the side of the relay also, you can just move them around abit until it starts again. I thinks Mart's idea with the tail light ballast resistor is a great simple solution to the current draw also. What could be done is to get three ballast resistors (bulbs) and wire them into a three way light switch to make a three brightness bulb. By the way he and I have discussed the solar panel idea and that is an area where I have some experience from my Bedini projects. Wave length of the light is important I think. Maybe a grow light like you use on indoor plants would work. Both he and I are having a hard look at the charging on this amazing device and are very impressed. He has the equipment to really test it. Also is there an easy way to make the flickering go away? Maybe a small cap somewhere?

Lidmotor

[theremart]

Re MORE POWER!

Mart what about making an Alu reflector and isolating the Light? should give you more bang for your buck

Interesting idea... I have never tried that but I have a friend that helps out in 3rd world countries by teaching them to build carboard solar cookers. I am thinking perhaps one of his designs might be optimal for it.

I have been thinking about a solar tracker, because I think the easiest energy to get is to point my solar cells to the sun. I was thinking about a motor driven device to track that.

As to the CFL mod using it for backfeeding, Aluminum may work, others have tried LEDs as Lidmotor has told me to try to generate more electricity than what you are pulling but have not got there yet.

I think this path would not pay for the energy of what you would put in it, as I look at the initial results.

What I think the biggest bang for the buck may be is the charging factor of this device. If one were to power this with a solar cell, during the day as Lidmotor is doing, I believe we can greatly improve our present methods of storing energy in the batteries. My inital results have shown me that the charge will stand up under load. More testing is needed. I am anxious to get the relay stable so I can test with my golf cart batteries. Those babies can take a BIG charge, and give it right back in terms of real power.

The biggest problem I have had with this circuit is getting it to be stable. once I am in a certain window of draw of amps I am seeing astonishing charging rates. I have had a problem getting my relay to keep a constant draw and position with the magnets.... I had it run for about 5 hours straight last night but the tape I had holding the relay came off. So I switched to a small vise to hold it in place.

Basically much more needs to be done with this circuit. I am just glad to be part of a group that are not bickering about the way to do the work, they simply do it.!

[theremart]

Type of coil...

I have a Duralast C819 coil from autozone. Was wondering if this was what everyone else was using... The other one I have has 016 written on the outside....

I have ordered the exact cap to match what was given so I can rule out that being a problem.

Mart

[**~Imhotep~**]

Imhotep, I'm really sorry that you didn't find that 15 turn 1K pot. I really wanted you to try it. I think any 1k pot will work but the sensitivity of the 15 turn lets you squeeze down on the current draw with precision. I measured the resistance across the pins on the relay and it is set at 650 ohms. I didn't unsolder the pot yet to check the resistance. However if the light stops you have to open up the pot to get the light started again then turn it down. If you are using the little neos on the side of the relay also, you can just move them around abit until it starts again. I thinks Mart's idea with the tail light ballast resistor is a great simple solution to the current draw also. What could be done is to get three ballast resistors (bulbs) and wire them into a three way light switch to make a three brightness bulb. By the way he and I have discussed the solar panel idea and that is an area where I have some experience from my Bedini projects. Wave length of the light is important I think. Maybe a grow light like you use on indoor plants would work. Both he and I are having a hard look at the charging on this amazing device and are very impressed. He has the equipment to really test it. Also is there an easy way to make the flickering go away? Maybe a small cap somewhere?

Lidmotor

thanks for the info and yes precision resistance is the key to finding resonance on the primary on the circuit also the bulb quality and temperature and impedance is something that can be tweeked on the secondary.and i agree that the charging spike is enormous on the single as well as the double coil circuit. you can probably put a second diode on the second coil off the negative primary connection and either charge a second battery or parallel it on the 1st battery as i did with fans.to increase the capacity of the charge.
daylight bulbs might give better results for solar cells as well as ashtweth's suggestion of a reflector ,aluminum could be a good choice although if the reflector is close to the coil it may get inductance so be careful if it is close to magnetic field. when i started this project i told everyone to save the circuit because it has good components to use later on the bulbs as you are experimenting . well you will find a couple of poly caps that will have a 1500 designation on them .if you have that circuit type they can be used across the wire on the tubes and just use one wire for each connection for the tube and put the cap in between the other wires on each end of the tube.that will smooth out the flickering.some of the high quality ge bulbs have high quality poly caps and a component with a ptc designation on it, and the ptc limits the current on the bulb for long life only the best bulbs have this component . you can put that component in between the wires coming off the ends of the tube and it will smooth the flickering and control current to the tube for long life

[**~Imhotep~**]

I have a Duralast C819 coil from autozone. Was wondering if this was what everyone else was using... The other one I have has 016 written on the outside....

I have ordered the exact cap to match what was given so I can rule out that being a problem.

Mart

The coil I am using is a duralast as well, on the coil itself it has a 067 on the side as well as the statement that it does not have an internal ballast resistor. Shiva put the exact part list we are using including part numbers in our interactive faq in the oscillator lite section.

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator---Flickering control

Thanks Imhotep, I knew that you had a reason for us to keep that circuit board that came out of the bulb. That will be really helpful to control the flickering. I'm running a test today using the small 2 watt solar panel straight into a 5Ah lead acid battery that is driving the oscillator. I have the system dialed down to 150 miliamps on the drive and I'm charging up a second battery off the back end. I think that you could run this non stop day and night using just that 2watt solar panel and swapping the batteries back and forth. This solar powered system could be really really useful.


Lidmotor

[**~Imhotep~**]

Thanks Imhotep, I knew that you had a reason for us to keep that circuit board that came out of the bulb. That will be really helpful to control the flickering. I'm running a test today using the small 2 watt solar panel straight into a 5Ah lead acid battery that is driving the oscillator. I have the system dialed down to 150 miliamps on the drive and I'm charging up a second battery off the back end. I think that you could run this non stop day and night using just that 2watt solar panel and swapping the batteries back and forth. This solar powered system could be really really useful.


Lidmotor

excellant work!! peter had suggested in the begining of the project to place a small solar panel on the unit to assist on energy recovery. and using a larger one to help even more on the recovery is a very important addition .

[jibbguy]

Article on CFL's & PFC published today

An article on Power Factor Correction and CFL's, mentioning **~Imhotep~**'s brilliant modifications, published today at:

OpEdNews

Thx for the info, and for bringing this interesting subject out. I deeply appreciate all you and the others here do; and some day the world may too...

Without people like you-all around, i would have to write about how corrupt the world of Professional Bowling is, or perhaps report on the Swiss giant flying dog-doo incident of last week

[**~Imhotep~**]

Doc is up Guys, added Erics, water's et all's stuff, let me know if any thing needs adjusting

Refresh page
Panacea University

->Tesla's High Voltage impulse lighting methods - Imhotep's radiant oscillator (PDF)

There is new docs up too BTW

We were able to check out the site and the changes. We would like to thank you for your tireless efforts. Shiva will be updating our site this weekend to include links to everyones sites as well and update the FAQ with links to everyones replications. Great work everyone and happy researching

[waterhouse24]

Tried 2 CFL's in series covered by a 24v solar panel. It produced 6 volts at highest brightness and only 14ma max.

58inch fluorescent tube produced 4 volts at 14ma max but had room to be covered by another panel so production would be doubled, be it for voltage or current.

Current draw to light is 800ma on both occasions but I hope to see this reduced with the help of a 555.

keeping the research ticking along

[ashtweth]

its a pleasure and honor to read all your post and document them
Jib's articles should be on the front page of Time magazine
Adding all the sites and Jibs links into the doc.

We will be building ours with the panel and updating soon, sorry guys i couldn't really contribute much R and D to this

Looks like Peter beat me to the recovery idea, i know we should be concerned with making the best energy savings with what we have but it makes me wonder with Eric's,Marts and Water houses tests,

Remember the solar panel is only so efficient, so how ,much energy is being transformed?, i think its already OU, just limited by the efficiency of the solar panel, perhaps this will be an OU method when some one cracks the efficiency threshold?,

Guys, i cannnot hlep but wonder what the efficiency is of your solar panel, I would be interested in the numbers ill look up our 120 watt one now I am sure we could raise the efficiency by a confined space too, ill be trying this for all

[Bodkins]

Tried 2 CFL's in series covered by a 24v solar panel. It produced 6 volts at highest brightness and only 14ma max.

58inch fluorescent tube produced 4 volts at 14ma max but had room to be covered by another panel so production would be doubled, be it for voltage or current.

Current draw to light is 800ma on both occasions but I hope to see this reduced with the help of a 555.

keeping the research ticking along

The nosie maker im using needs a hv coil collapse before the ignition coil,(using to much power to tigger at the mo ) I have not YET worked out how to do this.
Im thinking of using the 555 to pulse the relay then sending the relay coil collapse to the trigger on a bedini ciruit.
What You Trying?
Also where did you get the BMW coil from? All i cant get is ignition Packs from the scrap yard.

All i do is ask you question Question,Sorry