Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[jsambdman]

Oh, and my source battery is a 12 volt car battery from my car that I had to replace. It reads 12.3 volts before running and 12.05 while running. It has yet to lose charge but I don't leave it running long as my coil and relay get hot. But, I have noticed that the charge in the battery seems to be better after running the circuit. Sometimes before running the reading is 12.10 volts and after running it goes up to 12.3 volts. I thought that was interesting too.

[Bodkins]

I have been following this thread with great interest. I have built the original Imhotep circuit with a 12 volt relay instead of 9 volt. My coil and relay still get hot as I have yet to implement the advances here. Normally I only get between 7 and 9 volts on the charging side, but today I hooked a 4 foot fluorescent bulb (like the ones used in offices, it was burnt out too) and two cfl's (one was a very small one from Ikea - about 3 watts I think, and the other is an 18 watt GE CFL) all in series. The charging side read as much as 26 volts!!! The lights were putting out about 30% to 40% brightness. I have 3 more 4 foot fluorescent lamps and I will try them all in series to see if it ups the voltage on the charging side. I wondered if anyone else noticed that? And what does it mean?

had this happen to in this video
YouTube - Imhotep Radiant Oscillator --my replication

i think it changes the balance of the circiut have you tryed parrell thedude did some stuff with that, watch him stuff too i find his funny.in one hes peeled the shin off his finger riping off tape from his wheel and now keeps getting little shock on his little pinkys(sorry dude but its funny)lol
good luck

[Peter Lindemann]

Welcome

I have been following this thread with great interest. I have built the original Imhotep circuit with a 12 volt relay instead of 9 volt. My coil and relay still get hot as I have yet to implement the advances here. Normally I only get between 7 and 9 volts on the charging side, but today I hooked a 4 foot fluorescent bulb (like the ones used in offices, it was burnt out too) and two cfl's (one was a very small one from Ikea - about 3 watts I think, and the other is an 18 watt GE CFL) all in series. The charging side read as much as 26 volts!!! The lights were putting out about 30% to 40% brightness. I have 3 more 4 foot fluorescent lamps and I will try them all in series to see if it ups the voltage on the charging side. I wondered if anyone else noticed that? And what does it mean?

Dear Jsambdman,

Welcome to the world of experimental reality. Without trying to be too radical the bottom line to your question "what does it mean?" is that the scientific establishment has been lying to us about 1) what electricity really is, 2) where it goes, 3) what it can do, 4) and why. You only find out what REALLY happens when you run the experiment yourself, and see what happens on your own work bench.

The economic world only makes specific types of circuits and devices commercially available that conform to the "belief" that electricity is the "flow of electrons" and that "electricity is consumed" by the appliances when they run. What you are seeing in your experiments is the beginning of a CRACK in that belief model.

Welcome to the Matrix, where you just took the Red Pill, and the illusion that has been laid on all of us is starting to lift for you.

The truth is, we do NOT know what electricity is. We do NOT know all of the amazing things it can do. And we do NOT know why these circuits run in a manner that strongly suggests that only 2% of the electricity will light the bulbs while the other 98% of the electricity is dissipated in the other components or available for recovery. We can SEE that that is what is apparently happening, and so we are excited about following the experimental trail.

Thanks for sharing your findings.

Peter

[Bodkins]

fan oscillation

If anyones trying to make the fan oscillant take off the negative from the bulb to the ignition coil then spin the fan. if conected all you get is a flash.
after it starts to oscillant connect back together again and play with restistant to get best light.

Ps Well said Peter

[ren]

Ren, I have come to the same conclusion about upping the drive voltage source to get better light. I did it a little different though. I kept the circuit intact but took two 2000mAH 7.4 volt lithium ion batteries and put them in series to get 15 volts on the drive. It dramatically increased the light output and lights multiple bulbs better. On the charge side I left the two nickle metal hydride 12V batt packs. The lithium batts will run the LB for two hours then I split them and charge them on the back end as 7.4 batts. using the 12 volts on drive side. I went shopping for the parts to build the cap pulser yesterday and was totally frustrated. My local electronics store did not carry all the parts and I will have to drive 40 miles to a store that has them or order them online On top of that I really don't understand how the circuit works. I have to go backwards and learn more about the 555 and H11d1 and how they work together. The good thing is that it is forcing me to learn something new and that is a big part of why I am doing these projects.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Good to see you are constantly challenging yourself Lidmotor

The 555/opto/SCR is really simple once you understand the basics of it. The cap that is filling on the backend will continue to fill as long as the oscillator is running and there is no load connected to the cap. The Cap Pulser (as implied) simply connects the charging battery to the capacitor periodically via solidstate components (ie no mechanical elements). The mechanical equivalent of the circuit can be built by just putting a simple on/off switch on one of the legs to charging battery. Cap charges up to set level, lets say 15v, you press the switch on, cap dumps into battery and drops to level of battery, you let go of the switch and the cycle begins again. Too easy, except you dont want to sit there and switch the cap on and off do you!

A basic description of each part is this:

555- this is used to create our signal for closing the switch.

h11d1- used to optically isolate the switching load from the 555. (You can think of the h11d1 as similar to a relay, in that a small signal which passes through it is used to throw a switch which is isolated from the original signal and can switch much more powerful loads.)

small transistor (2n3440/2n3584/mje340 etc) - Used in Darlington pair configuration to amplify the signal that comes from the h11d1.

SCR - is our switch. Incidently, the SCR has a very low voltage drop, and may actually be more desireable than the output diode in the standard setup.

[ren]

I agree Peter. We as human beings have become VERY good at consumption. This is seen in many aspects, not just electricity. The general understanding is one way, the public doesnt understand that there is another side to electricity, its equal opposite. Its seen throughout nature and is right infront of our faces, yet we continue to pump our power into our circuits without any thought to where it is lost or dissapated. Time to wake up world

[hh1341]

Thanks Ren,

I have made a bi-filar 450 turn air coil.(would have been more versatile had I made it 3 wire)
It works but the transistor is getting hot and seems to have degraded.(it's a 2n3055....am wondering if a MJL21194G would be more robust)

JB says to use the parts one has at hand and tune the resulting creation.
I need some guidance on the logical way to go about tuning.

I have a 1K and 5K wire wound pot as well as a 75 ohm 25 watt reo to work with.

Carl

Hi Peter,

Can you give us a primer on tuning this SS circuit or point us in the right direction to obtain the info.

I'm kind of stuck.

Thanks

Carl

[ren]

What are you stuck on Carl? Does it work?


Tuning on the solidstate isnt too hard, its mostly done by the components selected. You can up the amperage by decreasing the resistance on the trigger wire, have a bare minimum on there though. Use a 1k fixed resistor at least before your 5k pot. This could be one reason your transistor is heating up.

[hh1341]

I haven't included the energy recovery in the the circuit......could that account for the transistor overheating(nowhere for the juice to go = heat buildup)?

Carl

[hh1341]

What are you stuck on Carl? Does it work?


Tuning on the solid state isn't too hard, its mostly done by the components selected. You can up the amperage by decreasing the resistance on the trigger wire, have a bare minimum on there though. Use a 1k fixed resistor at least before your 5k pot. This could be one reason your transistor is heating up.

Hi Ren,

It works......was getting very hot......changed the 3055 for a fresh one and it seems to be running cool now.
Learning electronics on the fly, couldn't do it without you guys.

So lesson #001 ......what contributes to transistor heat up and what are the remedies?

Carl

[ren]

Many things can lead to heat build up Carl, but for starters, having no recovery in a circuit like this is one of em. Bad or faulty transistors can be another. I have seen a whole batch of 2n3055s come through a local store here that were just plain crap. ISC they were labeled I think. They just didnt perform like others I had purchased elsewhere.

You dont have to build the cap pulser for recovery on the solidstate. You can get it to work with the pure SG circuit (well, I am assuming you can, I have got it to work with a SG circuit, high resistance on the base. I havent tried the resistance only "pure" solidstate with standard SG charging configuration).

Just put diode off collector and connect to + and put - of charging batt to positive of run as always.

[jsambdman]

All bulbs are in

I have hooked up all the bulbs I have in series. There are four 4 foot fluorescent bulbs, one mercury vapor bulb, one 3 watt cfl, and one 18 watt cfl.
I am producing 50 volts on the output side and it goes up to 80 volts when things warm up. Also, the brightness goes up after the coil and relay get hot.The battery still reads 12.05 volts during operation and 12.4 volts before running. The brightness is around 10 to 15% with the seven bulbs, but I was impressed with the output voltage. i will next build the better circuits posted here and see what happens.

[hh1341]

Thanks Ren,

You have come through and fixed me up yet again.

Question:-
Would you just stock MJL21194G's or is there place in the box for 2n3055's?

Carl

[Lidmotor]

Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator ---Cap pulser

Good to see you are constantly challenging yourself Lidmotor

The 555/opto/SCR is really simple once you understand the basics of it. The cap that is filling on the backend will continue to fill as long as the oscillator is running and there is no load connected to the cap. The Cap Pulser (as implied) simply connects the charging battery to the capacitor periodically via solidstate components (ie no mechanical elements). The mechanical equivalent of the circuit can be built by just putting a simple on/off switch on one of the legs to charging battery. Cap charges up to set level, lets say 15v, you press the switch on, cap dumps into battery and drops to level of battery, you let go of the switch and the cycle begins again. Too easy, except you dont want to sit there and switch the cap on and off do you!

A basic description of each part is this:

555- this is used to create our signal for closing the switch.

h11d1- used to optically isolate the switching load from the 555. (You can think of the h11d1 as similar to a relay, in that a small signal which passes through it is used to throw a switch which is isolated from the original signal and can switch much more powerful loads.)

small transistor (2n3440/2n3584/mje340 etc) - Used in Darlington pair configuration to amplify the signal that comes from the h11d1.

SCR - is our switch. Incidently, the SCR has a very low voltage drop, and may actually be more desireable than the output diode in the standard setup.

Thanks Ren for taking the time to explain how the cap pulser works. It does what I thought it did. I have tried charging up a cap and manually switching it into the charge battery. My fingers got really tired! It looks like this automatic pulser circuit is something that I can now figure out how to build. If I have any more questions I will use the appropriate thread and keep this one clear for Imhotep oscillator discussion. By the way I noticed that people are having trouble with heat and burning out transistors. Been there done that. You are right that you have to watch the resistance on the base of the transistor and put a fixed resistor in with the pot. On my latest circuit I got away with a 100ohm resistor with a 1K wire wound pot. It was just trial and error but the TIP3055 transistor I'm using runs cool. I'm also dumping alot of heat (still) into the 25ohm rheostat that I use so I put hefty heat sinks on the front and the back of it and it is working.

The last thing is that I also am also seeing very strange charging readings. The thing is though, I really don't trust these digital ammeters. I think that they give false readings with this type of circuit. You really have to do charge/discharge testing to see what's happening and that takes time.

Thanks again for the help.

Lidmotor

[ashtweth]

Hails to PL

The Pill peter is talking about is the reality that we are the effect of taking the reality pill, it is up to us to work together with out prejudice's and to assist each other and work collectively.

we can beat these bastards this way, the ONLY way we will.


Ash