Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[gmeat]

Has anyone tried a bifilar yet!

Hi Everybody,


Has anyone tried a bifilar on the trigger side of the circuit yet?.I have a bifilar coil with #23 awg and # 20 awg about 400' in length with a magnetite core and when I run my SSG with this coil it produces multiple pulses with each magnet passing by and can get about 8 to 10 pulses depending on which guage wire I use.Well,I figured I'd give this core a shot at the Imhotep/Lidmotor/Bodkins/Theremart/Whoever else I failed to mention running the CFL's.The bottom of my trigger coil comes through a 5k pot then my coil then a 25ohm pot then a base resistance of 47 ohms.When I tried to get it to self oscillate hooking the coil up normally using the #23 or #20 guage wire it didn't work,But if I hook it up to the #23 at one end and # 20 at the other end Bingo it starts right up and will work with either combination of wire guage as long as it's two different guages of wire (I'm not sure why it works but it does).I can replicate Bodkins affect of charging up a cap(560Uf 200v) hooked up to an earth ground and it directly relates to base resistance,Another words if I have the amps set at around 70 milliamps The cap will stop charging up at around 60-70 volts,And if set higher to around 200 milliamps or above the cap goes to max rating of 200 volts.I have also come accross the strange affect that I can charge a dead battery but cant charge a good battery .The latest thing I'm working on is to see why and if I can extact something off my coil that I'm getting a reading of 199+ volts on the meters AC scale connected accross the coil while running at 490 milliamps.Thx to all for the input.


-Gary

[Hoppy]

Hi Gmeat & all

I'm using a Bifilar coil and associated circuit from an experimental SG energsier. It has 19R 0.53mm strands (2 x 500 gram spools of ECW wound on a Pittsfield spool) with an iron core. It works better than everything else I've tried to date and I can run two CFL's at good brightness on 300mA @ 24V.

An earth connection does improve brightness on my setup. The trigger circuit is around 2K ohms for best brightness. I can find a point where I run at approx 10KHz which is the most efficient setting. Everything becomes very resonant and sensitive.

The light ouput from the CFL's is very thermally and visually cold / white in comparison with a normal mains driven lamp. I'm not convinced that the light output can be improved on very much when driven from an ignition coil and it seems that everyone so far is getting very similar and fairly low light levels. I did post a scematic of my first attempt using a pulse transformer and Line output transformer but the LOPT subsequently failed. Does anyone know how the heat is produced in a mains driven CFL? I'm asking this in case we can improve brightness by increasing the heat level.

Hoppy

[Bodkins]

Hi Gmeat & all

I'm using a Bifilar coil and associated circuit from an experimental SG energsier. It has 19R 0.53mm strands (2 x 500 gram spools of ECW wound on a Pittsfield spool) with an iron core. It works better than everything else I've tried to date and I can run two CFL's at good brightness on 300mA @ 24V.

An earth connection does improve brightness on my setup. The trigger circuit is around 2K ohms for best brightness. I can find a point where I run at approx 10KHz which is the most efficient setting. Everything becomes very resonant and sensitive.

The light ouput from the CFL's is very thermally and visually cold / white in comparison with a normal mains driven lamp. I'm not convinced that the light output can be improved on very much when driven from an ignition coil and it seems that everyone so far is getting very similar and fairly low light levels. I did post a scematic of my first attempt using a pulse transformer and Line output transformer but the LOPT subsequently failed. Does anyone know how the heat is produced in a mains driven CFL? I'm asking this in case we can improve brightness by increasing the heat level.

Hoppy

Hi Hoppy
Great stuff i was sure the freq was around there. its the earth freq.
Can you tap the energy from the earth rods?


Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.

[Bodkins]

Imhotep Peter you here?
starting to question if im going down the right path with this?

[gmeat]

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.[/quote]


Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary

[Bodkins]

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.

Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary[/QUOTE]

What a great idea Gary! bulb - to coil -
going to try it with the sinkcap setup.
you try it. charging the two batterys cool!

Sleep bodkins

[Hoppy]

Gmeat you doing the lightamp test with the rod?
Sounds like your getting just HV.

Hi Bodkins,


I have seen the amp draw go down with the ground connection from the high voltage coil attached along with better light output.But it seems that the best light output is when i connect the car coil high voltage secondary back to the primary negative.I'm currently using the 2 open ends of the SSG coil to charge a 2nd battery through a cap.Thx for all the input.This thread rocks .



-Gary[/QUOTE]


@ gmeat

I get about the same result connecting to supply neg as I do to an earth rod. The supply neg or earth rod is better than the coil neg.

I have found that the Ign coil primary needs to be carefully tuned with a cap to get maximum brightness. I'm currently using 0.22uF.

@ Bodkins

I heven't yet tried collecting energy in a cap in the earth line and will be trying this next.

Hoppy

[ren]

Hi Hoppy.

I found that you can use a cap, but any sort of recovery is lost when it is in the circuit. I havent tried all caps however so maybe there is something I missed

In regards to your comment on light quality are you aware of the different types of CFL's? Some are specifically stated as being "white light" and perhaps that is why you have that appearance on yours. My 20w one is fairly yellow when glowing.

I can get decent light @12v 200ma. By decent I mean if there is no other light in the vicinity I could switch it on and have enough light to solder/function @24v 300ma its almost bright enough to illuminate the entire room. Its one of the hurdles I guess, not being able to accurately gauge everyones indivdual light output. Ive had the thing glowing on less than 2 watts and while it is efficient in the energy it uses, its not that useful for anything besides a night light. And anyway, a little higher amp draw translates into better charging as well. Im using two ignition coils BTW.

[Hoppy]

Hi Ren

Yes, you are right about the recovery. I've found that it's a trade off between light output and charging.

Your description of decent light is how I would describe my output. It's OK for emergency lighting and bedtime reading. My lamps did work with a yellowish glow on the mains but are brilliant white with the HV.

I'm using just one ign coil and increasing voltage up to 30V does increase brightness and current of course but not enough to justify the additional current drain IMO.

I have found that when my system is off-tune working at an audible frequency with the lamps dimmed, the HV permeates everything, even the wire insulation on my croc leads. However, when tuned at high frequency, the HV reduces considerably and I can touch the wires without getting shocked. Its as if the lamps are reducing the back pressure by absorbing the energy and inreasing in brightness. I can connect a 100K resistor in the HV lamp circuit and it has no effect on the brightness; it seems to simply sweep over the resistor.

Hoppy

[ren]

Good stuff Hoppy. Ive been wondering if anyone had got their setup to be blanketed in HV. I had mine setup the other day and every piece of metal on the board had a little zing about it. I got a nice shock from the end of my coil that goes into my fan, which wasnt even hooked up to any other part of the circuit at the time! Go figure. The whole length of the metal stand for the light would give the smallest arcs if touched. The frequency would change and the light would alter. Another path to a sink I guess. When the circuit was corrected the effect went away, or diminished. There is a certain geometrical/volume element involved, down to the choice of wire used, where and how it is layed, and what it sinks into.

[theremart]

Good stuff Hoppy. Ive been wondering if anyone had got their setup to be blanketed in HV. I had mine setup the other day and every piece of metal on the board had a little zing about it. I got a nice shock from the end of my coil that goes into my fan, which wasnt even hooked up to any other part of the circuit at the time! Go figure. The whole length of the metal stand for the light would give the smallest arcs if touched. The frequency would change and the light would alter. Another path to a sink I guess. When the circuit was corrected the effect went away, or diminished. There is a certain geometrical/volume element involved, down to the choice of wire used, where and how it is layed, and what it sinks into.

Exactly what I experienced, as I posted. It is like my old farm electric fence charger. My next goal is to see what is the best charging to target battery.

Mart

[nat1971a]

YouTube - BEDINI IMHOTEP BODKINS REPLICATION UPDATE2


Following in the footsteps of Tesla.....

I have since confirmed that the SCR circuit that is driving the second ignition coil must be working as i disconnected the positive of the ignition coil and the light stopped.

Also when i touch the aluminum plates they make a resonating noise. Not sure what to make of that...any ideas? hope i am not generating xrays or something

I would just like to formally congratulate everyone for making this possible.

Cheers

Nat

[nat1971a]

Circuit attached

[Lidmotor]

555 timer circuit for CFL light

Wow!!

More and more people are joining in here. This is great. Anyway I got a 555 timer circuit modified in a way to work the CFLs without using anything else. It is pretty neat to watch do it's thing. I had to change the circuit from the one I tried yesterday that fried 2 chips. This one works as long as you keep the transistor cooled. Still may need that optoisolator Ren.

Thanks to everyone who is running with this idea. This is neat stuff.

Here is the 555 timer video---

YouTube - Lidmotor 555 Timer CFL Light

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[nat1971a]

Clearer circuit