Imhotep's Radiant Oscillator Video

[Vortex]

johnny-come-lately

HV diodes
YouTube - Bodkins 35 diode ground.AVI

Bodkins and ...... Everybody.

Call me johnny-come-lately ...
I sorta figured that one out also, Bodkins, but I came to a conclusion.
I'm looking at my version of the Lidmotor "Small Transistor CFL table candle"
circuit, well .. a sorta kinda like that.
I don't have a regulator and I'm using a 6 volt source.

At least for the Candle circuit, an earth ground has nothing to do
with making the bulb light brighter.

One side of the bulb is connected to HV.

1) it doesn't always "get going" without a push
2) it is like a candle
3) without something connected to the non-HV side,
the whole bulb isn't lit, lites less than a candle and generally will flicker.
4) allows for Yes,No evaluation of what does and doesn't effect brightness of bulb
5) A carrot works not as good as an orange and not
as good as a finger for bulb's Ground.
I wasn't touching the carrot when it was working, but I touched the orange.
6) foil works as good as wire and as good as earth ground.

I took my earth ground which is network wiring (8 wires) used 2 twisted
together for earth and 2 not attached to the earth rod.
and a piece of aluminum foil off a 2 lb peanut can.
The bulb is equally lit for all 3.
For this circuit it isn't earth that makes the bulb bright.

How the non-HV side of the bulb works, it might not be a Ground
and I don't think it's an ANTENNA. It's more like a valve.

Forgetting all the other effects, blue,purple sparks, etc
and looking only at the lighting the bulb.
Let us say the only thing making the bulb light is HV, just like
you see here., except one side of the bulb connect to HV.

Something under pressure just sits there doing nothing but being
pressurized, in this case by HV. It is just potential.
You guys are seeing a bright light because you are pushing so much
pressure, more pressure equals more volume through the same size
hole. We all have the same size hole if nothing is connected to the
non-HV side of the bulb. Less source volts, less light with the same
circuit.

An Orifice with pressure behind it can only allow so much to past
in any even time. If you make the Orifice larger so more can flow through
it. Th Orifice, in the lighting a bulb, isn't a hole, but is surface area.
The bulb gas is under pressure by HV but only so much pressure can get out.
The volume that gets out equals the brightness of the bulb.
If nothing is connected to the non-HV side, it takes more pressure to increase
the brightness.
If the Orifice is widen via a wire attached or a piece of aluminum foil,
a carrot, etc. the brightness increase due there is more surface area to
release the pinned up pressure, more flow, more movement, more light.

That sounds like it matches what I'm observing.
I have not a clue if this idea has anything to do with reality,
because I'm a victim of my own reality like everyone else is.

At this low voltage you can see the gas moving in the bulb, but it's
like the spokes on a wheel. You can not tell which way the wheel
it rotating due to the observed movement of the spokes.
I see the gas (pulses) moving forwards and then backwards in both directions.

I'm still only an observer.
Just
Randy

[Hoppy]

Good post Vortex.

At the weekend I rigged up a Bedini SG energiser in self-oscillation mode charging a battery but with the primary of an ignition coil wired in series with the battery. I found that an 18W neon tube connected to the ignition HT wire only fully illuminates when the other end of the tube is connected to either the battery pos or neg terminal. When connected like this, varying the output of the energiser directly controls the level of illumination which is fairly even along the whole length of the tube.

It appears as you say, like the energiser is acting as a pump and can only effectively pump energy across the neon tube if both ends are at at different potentials in respect to the circuit. Working the tube with one wire only from the ignition coil HT pressurises the tube causing 'banding' and an uneven illumination along the length of the tube. The tube is looking for a return which it does find via the aether but this return is high resistance and not good. In this situation, when I touched the glass of the tube, this resulted in an increase in brightness because my body was acting as a lower resistance conductor and therefore a better return.

The energiser converts low tension voltage to high tension voltage which is amplified in the ignition coil. I see the level of energy delivered from the HT of the coil being directly proportional to the pressure from the pump (energiser) and the pressure in turn is proportional to the power applied to the energiser. However, although the voltages and currents change in this conversion process, the power level does not (other than through normal resistive / reactive losses in the conversion process) because as the voltage increases, the current drops. Its the level of power (V x I) that dictates the brightness of our lamps, not just the voltage in isolation.

Another observation I made is that the neon tube when working 'cold' is not producing an equivalent illumination (watt for watt) to when it is running from a normal AC mains supply. This is because the tube filament is not being pre-heated prior to being 'struck' by HV as it is when running from a mains starter unit.

Hoppy

[nat1971a]

@vortex/all

Tesla was using fluid terminology / analogies ...so i think vortex has hit it on the head....

Pressure, flow, valves, pumps.....we need to think like tesla....dont think conventional.....conventional is the road to nowhere.....

[Bodkins]

I agree its a pump all bedinis are pump i said that way back but untill you see for yourself.......
One LAST thing from Me I have two BIG diodes on my coil pointing different ways going to a bulb each.
from the bulbs i can go to ground bulbs light up nothing new there!!!!!
BUT if i connect the bulbs together they light up
So that ONE WIRE LIGHTING THE BULBS
one diode going away from the coil
one diode kicking back from the coil
PUMPING AROUND
this is my last post here
Love and light to All
the fat lady is singing

[sucahyo]

Alternative solid state idea?

I came accross multivibrator transistor at techlib.com and inspired by gmeast post at water spark plug page 71. Anyone ever use 2N3055 as flip flop and dump the waste as charger?

Will the circuit attached bellow work?

edit:
fixed the capacitor and freq calc

For car coil application, there is example of loading only one transistor where it has much lower resistor value, as long as R1*C1 = R2*C2.

[Inquorate]

Flip flop 2n3055

I made that exact circuit once in attempt to oscillate centre tapped transformer, secondary to bridge rectifier for high voltage. That's before I knew you need kilovolts to get a spark and that's when I found imhotep's videos re ignition coil.

So, the circuit works. I later stripped it for the parts, never tried to dump to a battery.

[sucahyo]

I see, thanks .

I think this circuit bellow which utilize car coil would work too, isn't it?

[Inquorate]

Flip flop ignition coil

Looks like it should work... I'd consider using Tip35c transistors as they seem less prone to 'conditioning' which makes 2n3055's turn off and on softly.

Also, ignition coils don't like being switched at too high a frequency because they have ferrite? cores, so use bigger caps or smaller resistors if that is a problem.

When I made mine, I used wire wound resistors that came in a white ceramic block. These kept getting hot, so I superglued aluminium (pie tin) 'wings' to them and they stayed cool.

Good luck with it... What we talked about should be there tomorrow.

[Lidmotor]

CFL Table Candle -- with "Joe Tate Ambient Power Module"

One of my commentors on Youtube told me to try this Joe Tate device on my CFL project. It pulls energy from ambient RF coming from an outside long wire antenna and bumps the voltage up enough to charge a AA battery or run something really small. The commentor thought that this might run my CFL but it didn't. What it did do though, was make a charger using the energy coming off the CFL. This is something that Bodkins and I worked on way back but I never got a circuit that I was happy with. This Tate device just uses caps and diodes.
Joe Tate: Ambient Power Module

Here is my video of it working by using a coil of wire around the bulb instead of an antenna.

YouTube - CFL Table Candle with Power Module charging

Lidmotor

[sucahyo]

flip flop failing

@Inquorate, thanks. I'll see if I can find that transistor here. Would TIP3055 better than 2N3055? what is the function of wire wound resistor?

@Lidmotor, that is interesting. It seems the current version of ambient power work best as battery charger.

I decide to build the device and test it. The component value are in attachment. I don't have two 2N3055 so I decide to use 2N2222 for replacement. I use transformer instead of coil.

It works, but only for 10 seconds . In that 10 second the transformer make buzzing noise and goes louder and louder and then stop. The neon light is lighten up dimly during that time.

Now I have to figure out which part is broken before I can continue. Anyone know how to find out wether the transistor is broken or not?

[sucahyo]

Replication video

Still figuring out what is wrong with my implementation here is a replication of slightly modified Imhotep Radiant Oscillator. Instead of dumping the induction to source positive, I dump it to source negative, like the diagram I posted previously(http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post40668). I dump it to a HHO generator miniature.

Using computer power supply, the voltage is 12V, the current is 0.09Amp .I wonder if this reading are valid, measured from source negative. Transformer 12V primary and 240V secondary is used. The neon is taken from 8 watt CFL.

The neon light up about half it's original. It light up brighter than original using 6V primary, but my power supply can only run it for a second before it shut it self. Maybe because the power supply almost reach it's end of life or the amp draw significantly higher than it's reading.............

Video:
YouTube - Neon driver using Imhotep circuit, 90mA !

[Inquorate]

Lab pc power supply

@Sucahyo - re transistors, I haven't used Tip3055's before. If they can handle high amps and high voltage like the 2n3055's I'd say they'd be ok..

A pc power supply will auto shut off unless it is tricked into thinking it is running a computer. Details on how to re-wire it are here:

How to Convert a Computer ATX Power Supply to a Lab Power Supply - wikiHow

Wire - wound resistors.. I just used them on a whim :-)

Could be you fried the 2n2222's on your circuit from the back emf / voltage spikes from your transformer. Ps some transformers just hum, imo. I have one that does.

[sucahyo]

Thanks .

The link you post mention about "protective mode". I think that is what happen to my power supply.

About 2N2222, I guess I have to use only power transistors.

Additional note for my replication:
- when dumping induction to positive, current seems to increase proportionaly depend on what used to receice the back EMF. More current being taken to the dump load instead of lighting the neon, but also more power to the back EMF load. Able to generate bubble to HHO cells. Power supply refuse to turn on when using 12V primary.
- when dumping induction to negative, the computer power supply is more tolerable, allow for more neon brightness.

[hh1341]

In case you guys haven't seen this stuff, it's well presented.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...one-share.html

Carl

[Vortex]

One of my commentors on Youtube told me to try this Joe Tate device on my CFL project. It pulls energy from ambient RF coming from an outside long wire antenna and bumps the voltage up enough to charge a AA battery or run something really small. The commentor thought that this might run my CFL but it didn't. What it did do though, was make a charger using the energy coming off the CFL. This is something that Bodkins and I worked on way back but I never got a circuit that I was happy with. This Tate device just uses caps and diodes.
Joe Tate: Ambient Power Module

Here is my video of it working by using a coil of wire around the bulb instead of an antenna.

YouTube - CFL Table Candle with Power Module charging

Lidmotor

Looking at my "CFL Table Candle circuit".

My Coil around the top of the CFL bulb cutting the bulb in half.
If the bulb coil is connected to just about any place in the circuit, the
1st half of the bulb will brighten and the second half will dim.
The coil chokes off the flow through the bulb, but the ?back pressure?
brightens the 1st half. What does that mean?

A wet or licked finger will make the bulb brighter than a dry finger.
Maybe that's why a carrot works, the water content.

Foil connected to the non-HV side of the CFL will cause the foil to SING
(whine) to you if you touch the foil. Move your finger around the foil.
What does that tell us?

Observing .. no longer
Randy