EFIE Tuning

[jaybone]

I put together an EFIE from Redmeanie's kit, had some problems with implementation so I looked back on the forums here and realized that my VR2 output was still set to 1.0V from the bench test.
I have found the documentation to be quite confusing, so I started this thread to hopefully bring some clarity through conversation.

Here is how I understand the process beginning on the bench:

1 - apply 12V power to the board
2 - apply 500mv test voltage to signal line that will be coming in from O2 sensor
3 - Set rotary switch to richest position
4 - Wait about 3 mins for the circuit to start operating
5 - adjust VR1 so that the LED just comes on
6 - adjust VR2 so that output line (to go to ECU) reads 1.0V
7 - reduce 500mv test voltage down until the LED goes out
8 - check to see that output line voltage drops to zero, if it does then the circuit is working correctly.

OK, I'm pretty sure about it up to here, please correct any mistakes:

9 - make sure the rotary switch is still in richest position.
10 - adjust the test voltage back up to 500mv, the LED comes on
11 - re-adjust VR2 to output 400mv.
12 - install EFIE in the vehicle
13 - With booster running and efie active, try driving at full rich position on rotary switch.
14 - keep leaning out the fuel mixture using the rotary switch one position at a time and trying it out, when you start to have acceleration problems or stalling, back the switch off one position.



Since I had my VR2 set to 1.0V still, when the O2 sensor sent any signal greater than 500mv to the EFIE, the EFIE would send 1.0V to the ecu.
The ecu then 'thinks' the fuel mixture is rich and reduces fuel to the engine.
Correct?

[Redmeanie]

I put together an EFIE from Redmeanie's kit, had some problems with implementation so I looked back on the forums here and realized that my VR2 output was still set to 1.0V from the bench test.
I have found the documentation to be quite confusing, so I started this thread to hopefully bring some clarity through conversation.

Here is how I understand the process beginning on the bench:

1 - apply 12V power to the board
2 - apply 500mv test voltage to signal line that will be coming in from O2 sensor
3 - Set rotary switch to richest position
4 - Wait about 3 mins for the circuit to start operating
5 - adjust VR1 so that the LED just comes on
6 - adjust VR2 so that output line (to go to ECU) reads 1.0V
7 - reduce 500mv test voltage down until the LED goes out
8 - check to see that output line voltage drops to zero, if it does then the circuit is working correctly.

OK, I'm pretty sure about it up to here, please correct any mistakes:

9 - make sure the rotary switch is still in richest position.
10 - adjust the test voltage back up to 500mv, the LED comes on
11 - re-adjust VR2 to output 400mv.
12 - install EFIE in the vehicle
13 - With booster running and efie active, try driving at full rich position on rotary switch.
14 - keep leaning out the fuel mixture using the rotary switch one position at a time and trying it out, when you start to have acceleration problems or stalling, back the switch off one position.



Since I had my VR2 set to 1.0V still, when the O2 sensor sent any signal greater than 500mv to the EFIE, the EFIE would send 1.0V to the ecu.
The ecu then 'thinks' the fuel mixture is rich and reduces fuel to the engine.
Correct?

Do 1-8.....That is correct. Leave VR2 set at 1.0v...The confusion is because the original document uses the same term for different actions. We have re-written it correctly.

The VR's set the thresholds for the low and high base toggle targets. The Rotary switch determines at what point this happens in relationship to the base. This happens in 50mv increments with each selection on the rotary switch. So basically you are leaning it out at 50mv increments from stock settings.

Also that is not what is going on. This Device alters the toggle points so it thinks its rich at leaner voltages. That is how the ECU reads the Voltages from the O2 sensor. It reads High Then Low then shoots in Between to meet in the middle, so to speak. So what you are doing is forcing the computer to see rich when its not. This occurs in 50mv increments with each turn of the rotary.

[jaybone]

OK,
so the D17.pdf linked in the other thread file is the latest updated instructions?

and this:
Yeah if you read that manual I sent you, its real vague and states to move it back down to the 500mV range like in the last paragraph in the "adjusting on the bench" portion. That manual is all over the place! They shouldn't have even mentioned the 1V....Its just to check that the Voltage out drops all the way to zero when you cross the threshold.

But then they barely mention to return it to an actual operating range...."

is not valid?

[Redmeanie]

OK,
so the D17.pdf linked in the other thread file is the latest updated instructions?

and this:
Yeah if you read that manual I sent you, its real vague and states to move it back down to the 500mV range like in the last paragraph in the "adjusting on the bench" portion. That manual is all over the place! They shouldn't have even mentioned the 1V....Its just to check that the Voltage out drops all the way to zero when you cross the threshold.

But then they barely mention to return it to an actual operating range...."

is not valid?

The problem is its not referred to as the TEST Voltage. That is the Voltage that is simulating the O2 Sensor Voltage. This is the voltage you adjust up and down to verify the threshold settings. So once the VR's are set leave them alone. Im sorry for the confusion.

Here is the latest one.....

[jaybone]

Thanks!
I guess I thought I understood it better than I actually do.

[Redmeanie]

No Problem....Its hard for me to take a step back and see it from others points of view that are not familiar with the device. That is the Main reason I had it rewritten by someone from that perspective.

[jaybone]

I'm having a stalling issue

When I decelerate to a stop with EIFE on at richest setting and functioning and Smack on @1.4lpm drawing 18A, the engine stalls.
Right before it dies the voltmeter on the dash goes down into the red zone.

Any ideas?

Too rich or too lean?

Oh, also I am only running EIFE on the sensor in the exhaust manifold, NOT the one post-cat.
I thought most cars the post-cat was just to monitor emissions, not control the fuel mix, am I wrong here too?

[Redmeanie]

When I decelerate to a stop with EIFE on at richest setting and functioning and Smack on @1.4lpm drawing 18A, the engine stalls.
Right before it dies the voltmeter on the dash goes down into the red zone.

Any ideas?

Too rich or too lean?

Oh, also I am only running EIFE on the sensor in the exhaust manifold, NOT the one post-cat.
I thought most cars the post-cat was just to monitor emissions, not control the fuel mix, am I wrong here too?

If the EFIE is set to the Richest setting, It is at factory original settings. Check your connections especially the grounds. The post Cat O2 sensor has NOTHING to do with A/F mixture. Your voltmeter, (Im assuming the Vehicles) is going to drop when the engine stalls since most of those tap off of the Alternator. Shut down your Booster and see if the problem corrects itself.

[jaybone]

geez!

I wired the rotary backwards!
stalling problem explained!

I am very fortunate to have a very old beater vehicle to try this stuff on!
Well, the bright side is that I just ran the car on full lean with no issues on the highway.

[jaybone]

OK,
so correcting the rotary of course made a big difference.
I also swapped out the timing cap with a 100microfarad because it was taking a long time to get that LED lit - up to 6 minutes.

Now I have been driving stop and go around the city at full lean on the rotary with no issues other than a little rough idle at stops.

So my next question; how do I go leaner?
trim VR1 down lower than 0.5V?
How about VR2?

I want to push this setup to the limits, I'm all about proof of concept for all the naysayers in my circle and if I have to drive my demo car into the dirt doing it then that is AOK.

[wantfreeenergy]

I could use some help too

I've built my efie and I have it set up so that I have a test voltage of up to the 1v going to the sensor/computer wires. I adjust the voltage to half a volt then adjust VR1 so that the LED just comes on.

Now on to VR2, how do I measure the output so I know when it is at the 1v destination? I have my ammeter connected to the two sensor wires to measure the test voltage. But when I begin to adjust VR2 nothing happens. I'm guessing I don't know how to take the reading properly for VR2.

Thanks

[wantfreeenergy]

Just figured it out right after I posted

I had my input test voltage device connected to both the sensor/computer wires. So that was causing me drama. Instead what needs to be done is connect the positive of the test voltage device to the sensor wire and the negative to the boards ground. Then I was able to take a reading from the computer wire.

Just thought I would post this in case anyone else out there has the same drama.

[wantfreeenergy]

Nother q

Now I go to hook up my EFIE. And there are 2 sensors that I can tell. One next to the air box with 5 wires and one closer to the engine with 3 wires.

I thought I looked at these wires a while ago and saw 2 on the sensor closer to the engine. But now I know that there's 3. Will this EFIE work with this sensor? If so how do I find which wire to splice?

I recall reading that the EFIE won't work with sensors with 5 wires.

[wantfreeenergy]

Ok figured all that out. Now one last question, "I'll prolly get antsy and have it hooked up and working before I get a reply", but nevertheless I think it's smart to ask.

My o2 sensors had 4 wires. I did a search and figured out how to find the sensor wire. So my question is since one of the sensor wires is carrying the 12v, can I just hook up the power for my efie board to that 12v supply? Or must it not be connected to the sensor power wire carrying 12v?

I've read of connecting it to the ign. switch, oil pressure unit, windshield motor, and smog device. Basically just a 12v supply that is on when the key is in the on position and not the accessory position. Yet I wanted to double check that I can connect it to the sensor wire that has 12v.?

[wantfreeenergy]

Its ALIVE. Yup got it working. That sure took me a while. Kept doing things wrong, but finally after enough reading and tinkerin I got it connected properly and the LED is flashing like it should. SWEEET, now I just gotta hook up my smack booster.

Thanks everyone. With all the minds of the tinkerers and true pioneers I was able to make a small step in the right direction. Without this help I would only still be reading about how great all these alternate energy systems are.

THANKS