Harvey Kiker | Kiker Performance Products

[Aaron]

Thanks for posting about this Rosco. There are more synchronicities than I have time to type!

Anyway, this link has 5 patents by Harvey Kiker on this method.

Harvey Kiker | Patents | Kiker Performance Products

The battery booster patent and the spark plug wire patent...the latest spark plug patent shows a smaller wire wrapped around the larger wire.

Homepage:
Kiker Performance Products

I would recommend everyone read the patents first then do the analysis of the S1R coil to see what similarities are there. The patents are short, easy and straight forward.

[rosco1]

Untapped potential

Hi everyone,

I think the 5 wrap coil may have several applications which could benefit us here.

When I look at patent #1, I reason that there could be a positive result when incorporating this design into a power supply link/cable to a HHO gen.

Could it "boost" the electrolysis event in both "brute force" and PWM controlled HHO gens?

In fact, all 5 patents are highly interesting to me.

I have information here which suggests that the position of the 5 wrap coil, relative to the length of the cable, and intended purpose, has a direct bearing on the results obtained. It could be that we will need to "tune" the cable for optimum results.

Also, when applying the 5 wrap coil to a spark plug lead, again, the positioning of the 5 wrap coil will need to be "tuned" for optimum gain.
About 6 inched between the end of the lead that connects to the spark plug looks to be the starting point. Moving the coil + or - and inch or so, may affect the spark potential, so special care needs to be given to this.

Regards,
Ross.

[Ozicell]

Syncronicity!?

I work in the airconditioning installation industry and guess what I had sitting in my shed! A 4 m roll of copper tubing ID 1.3mm OD 2.58mm. Ok, not exactly the same size but worth a shot! It looks simple enough from the patents, any suggestions before I jump in?

Jeff

[Aaron]

battery booster

I'll post a vid and pics of my replication of the battery booster one.

[Aaron]

Kiker Battery Booster

Built this yesterday...about $15 in parts retail cost.





2.5" ID of coil
5 turns
1/4" od copper tube
Vinyl tubing over tube for insulation
battery clamp from Shucks

From battery clamp to bottom of coil (before extra piece is soldered)
is 5 feet long. Then I added 1 extra foot to reach the starter.

Will post vid soon.

[Aaron]

Kiker Battery Booster

Hmmm...

Kiker Performance Product 5
Looks like the one he is selling has smaller diameter loop then what his patent specifies...possibly.

Also, he leaves the normal cable from the starter and just puts that in series.

I'm going to just put the whole tube to the starter and not just in series.

That will be a lower resistance connection than what he shows. Maybe not necessary, I don't know.

Anyway, I'll post more when I'm done installing it.

[FuzzyTomCat]

What ?????

Aaron,

I've never heard or seen this before, went to the web site and am really confused with this whole concept. The battery cable for instance, auto manufactures on an average use a #4 AWG CU wire rated at 95 amps for the battery connections.

General Spec's
1) CU wire dia. (.232 in) Strands 7 @ (.077 dia)

CU Tube Product Spec's
1) Outside dia. (.250 in) Inside dia. (.125 in)

As I'm sure you know the electrical current flows on the exterior or surface of the wire or anything conductive.

The formula for Round Surface Area is - 2 x PI x R x H = sq.in.
(R= radius, H= height)

Given that formula - a 1" long item

The tube has - 1.17 sq.in. surface area
The wire has - 1.69 sq.in surface area

The tube having a loss of - .52 sq.in. surface area (a hefty percentage)

Where does the current loss go into magnetism or is it a loss all together, I don't understand this concept, a vehicle needs what current it needs not a loss in current ??

(a starter uses between 1.2 - 1.8 kw at 12V DC nominal)

Any comments ?

Glen

[rosco1]

Aaron

I've just recieved an email from the Kikers, and they're not happy that their product is being discussed and shown on this site, and they've asked for it to be removed.

[rickoff]

Re: Kiker cable duplications

Hi Aaron,

That's quite a coil you have there. Actually, the Kiker specs suggest a 2.5 inch through pass diameter for the battery lead coil, and with 1/4 inch o.d. tubing the coil outside diameter would be 3 inches. Kiker says that up to 5 inches o.d. can be utilized for heftier installations, though.

I don't imagine that you ran the smaller tubing inside that, which Kiker says is the "preferred" configuration for the battery to starter tube. You would have to use some rather thin insulating material on the smaller tubing to be able to fit it inside the 1/4" tubing, which has an i.d of 3/16". The advised size of the inner tubing is 1/8" o.d. x 1/16" i.d, so the insulation layer thickness would be less than 1/32
(.031) inch.

Did you bend the tubing coils freehand? A few kinks are visible, and I'm not certain if that will have any adverse effect, but likely that it may. A tubing bender tool would be handy for making these coils, especially for the larger tubing sizes, while it may be easy enough to wind the 1/8" spark tubes on a 1/4inch mandrel without any problems if wound slowly and with caution.

I'm now wondering how much benefit I may be able to achieve if using both the spark tubes and Battery connector cables in my Prius. Two motor/generators in that, and an efficiency hike could really add up.

The Kiker spark tubes use the same 1/8" o.d. copper tubing mentioned above, and the same 5-turn counter-clockwise wound coil, but the coil location is close (2 to 3") to the spark plug end of the tube, wheareas the battery cable tubing suggests a preferred location for the coil being midway along the tube length. It seems that a relatively short battery cable tube, hooked to the end of the stock battery cable, is sufficent for the desired results. That type of configuration was also used initially with the spark tubes being added ahead of the stock plug wires, and while it initially worked just fine, the stock plug wires soon developed problems, as they couldn't handle the boosted output. Stock battery cables, though, should not suffer from that problem, as they are built beefy and have high conductance/low resistance. The Kiker effect, once initiated, has no problem in continuing, unless suppressed by high resistance wiring.

Kiker seems to think that having the coil turns tightly compressed against each other is an important factor, and he uses a cable tie to compress and bind them in that manner, later hot-dipping the tube in an insulating coating. When making up the coiled tubing at home, you can't maintain the tight relationship of the coil windings if you place insulative tubing over the length of the copper tubing before you form the coils. I would suggest, instead, that you first form and bind the coils, and paint them with 3 or four coats of Tool Dip, allowing sufficient curing time between coatings. Then install the insulation tubing to cover the remaining exposed areas of tubing on each end of the painted coils.

When winding the coils: Notice, in any diagram showing the 5 -turn coil, the coil is not only wound counter-clockwise, but is also laid backwards 5 degrees from perpendicular, as found here: Spark tube design.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive There is definitely a reason why that angle is important to the design, so use the same alignment for best results.

You will notice that in the latest adaptation of the spark tubes, a coiled solid wire of small diameter is applied over the insulating layer of the tube in at least two locations, and then it is also covered in insulation. If adding that adaptation to your build, the solid wire should be 1/10 the outside diameter of the copper tubing used. So for 1/8" copper tubing that would be 1/80", or 0.0125" diameter wire. Notice also that these wire windings are wound in the opposite direction of the 5-turn coils, as evidenced here: Final spark tube design.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive Notice this diagram also shows the binding of the 5-turn coil by use of a tie, shown in dotted lines.

In thinking about why tubing makes so much better a spark or battery cable connector, I know that the path of greatest resistance is through the center of a conductor. That's why most of the applied current travels along the outer sectional area of the conductor. Removing the path of greatest resistance by using a hollow tube makes a lot of sense, and so does the
5-turn coil. Resistance on these tubes is said to be near zero ohms. The enhancement with the small diameter windings helps counter the inductive reactance of the 5-turn coil, since the coiling is done in the opposite direction, and also adds further elongation to the spark interval. Unlike the spark tubes, Kiker suggests winding the small wires on plastic tubing or straps for the coil to battery, and coil to distributor wiring. Naturally, these wires should also be well insulated after being made up. See the overall installation view here: Spark tube engine installation.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive

Hope this proves useful to those who want to do a build, and helps avoid the time spent in researching the patents, by getting right down to the nitty-gritty details which are involved.

Best to all, Rick

[Aaron]

double surface area?

As I'm sure you know the electrical current flows on the exterior or surface of the wire or anything conductive.

The formula for Round Surface Area is - 2 x PI x R x H = sq.in.
(R= radius, H= height)

Given that formula - a 1" long item

The tube has - 1.17 sq.in. surface area
The wire has - 1.69 sq.in surface area

The tube having a loss of - .52 sq.in. surface area (a hefty percentage)

Where does the current loss go into magnetism or is it a loss all together, I don't understand this concept, a vehicle needs what current it needs not a loss in current ??

(a starter uses between 1.2 - 1.8 kw at 12V DC nominal)

Any comments ?

Glen

Hi Glen,

I have no idea what the whole deal on this is but for $15 in parts, I'll try it.

I think you would have to double the surface area of the tube since you have the inner surface as well.

[FuzzyTomCat]

Hi Glen,

I have no idea what the whole deal on this is but for $15 in parts, I'll try it.

I think you would have to double the surface area of the tube since you have the inner surface as well.

I did,

Tube-
2 x Pi x .125 (r)= .785 + 2 x .0625 (r)= .392 > .785 + .392 = 1.177

Wire-
2 x Pi x .038 (r)= .238 X (strands) 7 = 1.666

I hope my math is ok, gettin old,

Glen

[rosco1]

Understood

I agree, I just wanted to let you know that we are causing concern.

Our covering of this topic could and indeed should, be looked at postively, for if we highlight that this particular principal has merit, as I believe it does, it can only boost sales for the inventor, which can't be a negative thing.

I'm more than happy to purchase these products directly from the designer, and likely will, after I've established what I require. Yet as we are only guessing at this stage, as to what this principal is truly capable of, and it could be that we require modifications away from the original design, which the designer could have covered, and exploited should he have the desire to do so, thus, it's puzzling that they have adopted this stance. Hmmmm.

I'd have liked the inventor to have offered his assistance in determining what, in fact, could be the best approach to solving the puzzle, as he sees it.

With regard to that battery cable you made, I've seen this principal before, many years ago, yet for the life of me, I can't recall where.

You need to cut that long length off the end of it, and just fit the coil at a certain point along the existing line, the distance?? Who knows? The actual positioning of the coil is not known yet, but I feel it's crucial to achieving any gain. "Tuning" this thing will perhaps be time consuming. Input from the inventor could have saved time.

I note that certain UHF antennas use 4 wraps on the coil, and sometimes 2x4 wraps, and as such, we could perhaps be barking up the wrong tree here, with regard to the amount of wraps we require for our purposes, so without assistance from anyone, we are only left to look into this for ourselves.

Ahhh, the road is ever long.......

[rickoff]

Math help for Glen

I did,

Tube-
2 x Pi x .125 (r)= .785 + 2 x .0625 (r)= .392 > .785 + .392 = 1.177

Wire-
2 x Pi x .038 (r)= .238 X (strands) 7 = 1.666

I hope my math is ok, gettin old,

Glen

Actually, Glen, this is often confused. To simplify things, think of how the tubes surface area would be measured if the tube was separated at a joint and flattened out like a sheet of paper. Then the area would be width x length. The correct method of finding surface area for a tube is to multply the inch measurement of the circumference (either inside or outside) by the inch measurement of the height (or length, in this case) of the tube. The formula for circumference is Pi times the diameter (inside or outside diameter). Thus, for a 1 inch long copper tube with 1/8" (0.125") outside diameter, the surface area would be ((3.143 x .125) x 1), or 0.393 square inches, as rounded up. The diameter of the tube's interior is 1/16" (0.0625"), so the surface area of the interior wall would be ((3.143 x .0625) x 1), or 0.196 square inches, as rounded down. The combined area is thus 0.393 + 0.196, or 0.589 square inches, which of course is 0.196 square inches in addition to what a solid conductor would provide in terms of surface area (laterally). That's a whopping 58.5% increase, by the way. (1.585 x .393 = .623)

So the first principle involved here is that you take away the highest resistance path of a conductor, by giving it a hollow center, and this gives you an additional conductive path of lesser, but substantial surface area.

Hey, Glen, I like that photo of the cat with the sun glasses on. A cool cat!

Best regards, Rick

[rosco1]

Suggestions...

I work in the airconditioning installation industry and guess what I had sitting in my shed! A 4 m roll of copper tubing ID 1.3mm OD 2.58mm. Ok, not exactly the same size but worth a shot! It looks simple enough from the patents, any suggestions before I jump in?

Jeff

Just don't look down Jeff......don't look down.

[rosco1]

Meanderings...

For fear of attracting unwanted criticism, I'll now refer to the coil wraps as meanders.

I use this link as support for the name change, and I'd like everyone to see what "meandering" around with this principal appears to do when employed elsewhere.

Water splitting by HF

Note the number of "meanders" in those pics?