Harvey Kiker | Kiker Performance Products

[FuzzyTomCat]

Actually, Glen, this is often confused. To simplify things, think of how the tubes surface area would be measured if the tube was separated at a joint and flattened out like a sheet of paper. Then the area would be width x length. The correct method of finding surface area for a tube is to multply the inch measurement of the circumference (either inside or outside) by the inch measurement of the height (or length, in this case) of the tube. The formula for circumference is Pi times the diameter (inside or outside diameter). Thus, for a 1 inch long copper tube with 1/8" (0.125") outside diameter, the surface area would be ((3.143 x .125) x 1), or 0.427 square inches, as rounded up. The diameter of the tube's interior is 1/16" (0.0625"), so the surface area of the interior wall would be ((3.143 x .0625) x 1), or 0.196 square inches, as rounded down. The combined area is thus 0.427 + 0.196, or 0.623 square inches, which of course is 0.196 square inches in addition to what a solid conductor would provide in terms of surface area. That's a whopping 46% increase, by the way. (1.46 x .427 = .623)

So the first principle involved here is that you take away the highest resistance path of a conductor, by giving it a hollow center, and this gives you an additional conductive path of lesser, but substantial surface area.

Hey, Glen, I like that photo of the cat with the sun glasses on. A cool cat!

Best regards, Rick

Hey Rick,

The quickest formula I could set my hands on for you that I use is -

Area - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The formula is for a cylinder or tube (exterior) -

2 x Pi x r2 + 2 x Pi x r x h

Tubing - .250 od x .125 id (.125 r x .0625 r)

OD - .098 + .785 = .883 sq.in.
ID - .024 + .392 = .416 sq.in

(OD + ID) .883 + .416 = 1.299 sq.in. Total

Wire - .077 dia. x 7 (strands) #4AWG CU WIRE "95 amps" NOTE-(AWG cir.mil. "is" AWG cir.mil. regardless of strand qty.)

.009 + .238 = .247 sq.in. (1-strand)

.247 x 7 (strands) = 1.729 sq.in.

1.729 Wire sq.in.
1.299 Tube sq.in.

.430 sq.in smaller the tube is

I'm sure this is the correct formula, radius squared not diameter ?

Regards,
Glen

[Aaron]

misc notes

Hi Rick,

I wound the tube around a 2.5" diameter can of AC refrigerant and did get some minor kinks. I didn't do the double tube method..just single.

On the Kiker site on how it works link, it says these make a magnetic field in the engine bay that help to ionize the fuel for better combustion. They're air core so magnetic field will be much weaker than with a core but the concept sounds feasible.

I'll post any results.

Be interesting to see what magnetic fields do with the water in the water spark circuit.

To make the spark plug wire with the Kiker method, I guess you have to take the boots from some existing wire sets or get just the boots. If you type in SPARK PLUG BOOTS in google, there are companies selling boots by themselves...but I'd imagine getting ones without built in resistors are preferable.

[Aaron]

spark prolonger

See this for a spark prolonger:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...939-814-a.html

[Ozicell]

Ball Spark plug under pressure with kiker leads

Kiker replication did give a more energetic spark as you can see in the increased brightness in the second video.

Sorry for the disappointing quality also the earth cage which is changable for testing purposes moved during installation virtually eliminating the dancing spark.

YouTube - Ball Spark Plug firing in pressure chamber

YouTube - Ball Spark Plug in pressure chamber with Kiker replication s

[Aaron]

great test!

That's great Ozicell!

If you or Rosco can make a thread on "how to make a simple compression chamber for spark plug tests for dummies" that would be awesome! I can think of a few ways but I would rather take your advice.

Do you have a CDI you can do with or without Kiker?

[Ozicell]

Pressure Chamber

That's great Ozicell!

If you or Rosco can make a thread on "how to make a simple compression chamber for spark plug tests for dummies" that would be awesome! I can think of a few ways but I would rather take your advice.

Do you have a CDI you can do with or without Kiker?

Hi Aaron,

Could you please elaborate on your last question. CDI?

The pressure chamber is a sinch! It's a piece of sewer pipe, any gluing MUST be first cleaned, primed then only use PVC pressure glue. I cut a hole in the lid and siliconed a piece of Lexan (polycarbonate) for viewing. The longest part is waiting for the glue and silicon to dry. 1 hole drilled and tapped for the plug - I used teflon tape to improve the seal and a hole drilled for the guage leads, this connector must have a schroder valve depressor section. I have nitrogen and guages on hand for use in my air con business so the rest is history. I'll take some pics and post them.

Cheers
Jeff

[Ozicell]

Kiker spark improvement

I just split the screen and watched both vids side by side and there is a very noticable improvement in spark generation. I think tommorrow I'll make me a full set!

[Aaron]

capacitive discharge ignition

Thanks for the info!

CDI is Capacitive Discharge Ignition...can buy the modules from any performance shop. It connects to an ignition coil and the primary of the ignition coil is powered by a capacitor discharging into it instead of 12 volts. I have a CDI and I took it apart to look in it and the cap was 500v 2uf or 4uf..hard to see. CDI gives a stronger spark all by itself.

[rosco1]

Great work

Top work Jeff,

I'm not sure how you went with replicating the Kiker wire, as your pics aren't available yet.

Know that the "coil" on the replication will need to "tried" about 6 inches from the plug to begin with, then perhaps "tuned" either + or - an inch or so, either way, until the sweet spot is arrived at. This may be related to the coil output you're using.

The angle of the coil in relation to the mean direction of the lead may have relevance too, as will closeness of the coil wraps themselves.

I'm not sure what ignition device you used, was it on a running engine?

If so, was it a HEI ignition?

What gap did you use? 3mm, as per the Firestorm?

Know too, that the "Firestorm" reportedly achieves quantum 4, and the Kiker wire will take it beyond there, so keep that in mind. Also note, the inventor of the Firestorm is reportedly intending to utilise the Kiker wire, so yes, you appear to be on the right track.

My tests were done on a running 253 V8, utilising number 1 spark plug lead. It has a 50,000v coil in cap HEI.

My pressure bell isn't home made, I actually purchased it on Ebay. It's an ancient spark plug tester. A lot of these old testers had pressure bells fitted. They're still available, but given their antiquity, are sometimes not so easy to find.

[Aaron]

battery booster

I have to rewind my battery booster in the opposite direction and will make the diameter smaller and might be able to get 2 extra winds on it.

[rickoff]

Reply to Glen

Glen wrote, " I'm sure this is the correct formula, radius squared not diameter?"

Sorry Glen, but no. The formula you are using is for a solid cylinder, and figures the total surface area of all geometrically exposed surfaces, including the surface of the 2 ends of the cylinder. The area of each end would be 3.143 x the radius squared, and thus your formula states 2x that amount to include both ends. The ends don't even come into consideration when figuring surface area of battery cables, because the cable terminates on the outer surface at a cable clamp or ring terminal. So you need to simply figure the lateral surface area, which your Wikipedia source will show as 2 x Pi x radius x height, and that's exactly the same as figuring the more simply stated Pi x diameter x height. In other words, Pi x diameter = 2 x Pi x radius. Same thing - just remember to drop the first half of your formula when calculating the lateral surface area. Sorry that I figured for a 1/8" copper tube when you were actually talking about a 1/4" tube (I had the spark tubes in mind at that moment), but just plug the correct values in and here's what you get for 1/4" copper tubing : (s.a. = surface area)
Outside s.a. = 3.143 x .250" x 1" height = 0.786 sq inches, rounded up.
Inside s.a. = 3.143 x .125" x 1" height = 0.393 sq inches, rounded up.
Total s.a. = .786 + .393, or 1.179 sq inches.

Before, I thought we were comparing the surface area of a solid conductor to a tube. Stranded wire figures differently, of course. For the wire, if I understand you correctly, you are saying that a 7 stranded cable with an outside diameter being approximately the same as the outside diameter of a 1/4 inch tube, has 7 strands inside - each with a .077" diameter. Okay, then figuring one strand's lateral surface area, the formula for surface area is:
Outside s.a. for 1 strand = Pi x .077" x 1" height = 0.242 sq inches.
And total s.a. for cable = .242 x 7, or 1.694 sq inches.

So yes, the stranded wire cable actually has more surface area, and 0.515 square inches more, to be exact. The question here, though, is: Can the 1/4inch diameter stranded wire cable transfer more power faster than the the 1/4 inch tubing, and the answer is - definitely not. Here's why:
We both agree that current tends to travel near the surface of a wire, and that this is termed skin effect, right? Skin effect results in increased power loss in a solid wire, and that is what each of the strands is - a solid wire. According to Wikipedia, "Stranded wire might seem to reduce this [skin] effect, since the total surface area of the strands is greater than the surface area of the equivalent solid wire, but in fact a simple stranded wire will have worse skin effect than a solid wire, because of its increased average resistivity due to inclusion of air gaps within the wire [bundle]." In bundled, stranded wire cables, the skin effect still occurs mostly near the outer suface area of the bundle. So, in other words, the power transmission of a stranded cable is actually poorer than a solid cable. Stranded cables are only popular because of the fact that they can be bent and routed much more easily than solid wire, but solid wire is preferable where power transmission losses are concerned. That's why your household wiring uses solid copper wires. It reduces power loss and heat buildup that would occur in stranded wire. With a tube, you can take an increased advantage of the skin effect due to the inside surface, and both surfaces have very low resistance when compared to stranded wire.

Again, sorry if my previous post on the math confused you because of figuring a different cable size. Actually, I made an error on my calculator (my eyes are getting bad), figuring the outer surface area of a 1/8" tube at 0.427 sq inches, when it is actually 0.393. I went back and fixed that, so the end result is now correct, but the basic formulas used were always correct, as I have shown above. Incidentally, while the previous error resulted in a 47% increase using the tube vs a solid cable, the actual increase is 58.5% - even better! The tubing wins, hands down, thumbs up.

Best wishes,

Rickoff

[rickoff]

Hmmm, I'm thinking.............

Hi everyone,

I'm seriously considering buying a full set of these spark and battery cables for my Toyota Prius, and have inquired at Kiker products to see if they have results statistics available for any Prius installations. If the spark wires and battery cables are as good as they claim, then the payback in battery life, battery charging times, electric motor efficiency, and fuel efficiency will make it well worth the investment. Initially they are expensive (around $25 for each spark wire, and $75 for a battery cable, but the savings would begin to be realized within a few months time, as my wife drives the Prius about 500 miles a week, and I drive it about another 100. What do you folks think?

Rick

[Ozicell]

Posting pics

Top work Jeff,

I'm not sure how you went with replicating the Kiker wire, as your pics aren't available yet.

Know that the "coil" on the replication will need to "tried" about 6 inches from the plug to begin with, then perhaps "tuned" either + or - an inch or so, either way, until the sweet spot is arrived at. This may be related to the coil output you're using.

The angle of the coil in relation to the mean direction of the lead may have relevance too, as will closeness of the coil wraps themselves.

I'm not sure what ignition device you used, was it on a running engine?

If so, was it a HEI ignition?

What gap did you use? 3mm, as per the Firestorm?

Know too, that the "Firestorm" reportedly achieves quantum 4, and the Kiker wire will take it beyond there, so keep that in mind. Also note, the inventor of the Firestorm is reportedly intending to utilise the Kiker wire, so yes, you appear to be on the right track.

My tests were done on a running 253 V8, utilising number 1 spark plug lead. It has a 50,000v coil in cap HEI.

My pressure bell isn't home made, I actually purchased it on Ebay. It's an ancient spark plug tester. A lot of these old testers had pressure bells fitted. They're still available, but given their antiquity, are sometimes not so easy to find.

Ok Rosco,

I know you've seen my latest vid, now can you tell this dumb ars how do I post pics!

BTW Yes it is my running engine with 1 cylinder out of operation because it's running my plug.

The gap in the latest video is less than 2mm. I haven't tried my larger cage with the higher pressure yet! It's probably closer to the 3mm

Cheers
Jeff

[rosco1]

"insert image"

Ok Rosco,

I know you've seen my latest vid

In the comment box you're typing in, see the yellow "insert image" icon, just under the "undo" icon.....try that.

Or, copy and paste the pic link into this text box, I think that works too.



flame

The 1st one is using the "insert image" icon, the 2nd is just a link to where the image is stored elsewhere.

[wpage]

Warrenttee issues?

Hi everyone,

I'm seriously considering buying a full set of these spark and battery cables for my Toyota Prius, and have inquired at Kiker products to see if they have results statistics available for any Prius installations. If the spark wires and battery cables are as good as they claim, then the payback in battery life, battery charging times, electric motor efficiency, and fuel efficiency will make it well worth the investment. Initially they are expensive (around $25 for each spark wire, and $75 for a battery cable, but the savings would begin to be realized within a few months time, as my wife drives the Prius about 500 miles a week, and I drive it about another 100. What do you folks think?

Rick

Hi Rick,
With Toyota sometimes their svc mgrs can be a little sticky on mods...

If your Prius is still under warrentee. Be certain to keep all your old stuff so you can put all back on if you have a issue.

W