Harvey Kiker | Kiker Performance Products

[ashtweth]

Hi Rev, any news on your rep, did it hold up okay?

[Aaron]

Battery Coil video

Here's a vid of my battery coil:
YouTube - Battery coil boosts performance

This was taken shortly after starting this thread.

[revizal]

Kiker on my SUV

Hi Rev, any news on your rep, did it hold up okay?

Sorry for delay reply this.
Yes. If you look at my video (Plasma on SUV), my rep kiker booster seen on it. It still hold OK on my battery.

[ashtweth]

Thanks REV and Aaaron, have updated all the docs with this info, i still wanna see how one of those leads works on a booster

[rosco1]

Setback!

Help sought.

I recently sourced a set of Kiker Wires and went about installing them on my test engine.

Test engine:
Inline 6 cyl.
Intake and exhaust on one side, plugs and distributor on the other.
HEI ignition(distributor) installed.
Currently running Brisk Premium LGS spark plugs.

I began by initially fitting the coil lead, starting the engine to check for shorting events, none apparent, moved on.

Fitted lead to number 1 cyl(front of engine), again no problems appeared when fired.

Then fitted number 6(at the rear of the engine), plug evidently refuses to fire. Messed around with the lead for an hour or so, shielding it further, ensuring it was well clear of any potential shorting points, no luck. Gave up, decided to proceed with fitting all the others and come back to it.

Fitted all other leads and test fired each as they were added. All good.

Went back to number 6 and tried for hours to get it working, no luck whatsoever.

Then out of the blue it began firing and continued to fire with no apparent problems for the remainder of the day.

This morning I fired up the engine again, ran it for about 3 minutes, all good, and then that darn short/missfire appeared again and simply refuses to be reckoned with.

If I switch back to the standard lead it fires great, but as soon as I fit that darn Kiker to number 6 it fails.

Plugs are only a few months old, lucky to have done 3000klm.

I'm puzzled as to what this problem can be, as the lead has nothing to short across to.

I'm wondering if it could be due to where my ignition coil is currently positioned, meaning is it effectively creating some weird "field". Is this even possible?

The factory coil position sees it located behind the distributor, almost back at where the cylinder 5th from the front is located.

This arrangement effectively sees 4 cyls ahead of it and 2 behind it.

Could some sort of "field" be affecting number 6?

Darn strange.

Can't fit the HI6 until this is sorted.

[rosco1]

Most puzzling

I just had a brainwave and decided to try reducing the amount of wraps/meanders in the affected/shorted lead by 1, refitted the lead and bingo, firing on all 6.

I then removed the lead again and re-added the 1 wrap, to find it again failing to allow the plug to fire.

I quickly removed that wrap and again the lead is firing like crazy.

The amount of wraps/meanders is seemingly having an effect on my engine, on number 6 at least.

I'm starting to lean toward some sort of "field" phenomena being apparent.

This is interesting.

[rosco1]

I believe this discovery allows significant possibilities.

While trying to figure out "why" the lead on number 6 was a dud, I was mulling over the possibility of it somehow being related to a "field effect" brought about by the actual physical location of my ignition coil, meaning where the ignition coil sat in relation to the distributor and plug lead array.

I rushed outside and tried the lead 1 more time, nup, bastard was dead.

I then removed 1 wrap of the coil on the affected plug lead, and BINGO! It's now firing like mad.

This discovery is exciting in that it goes some way toward proving the lead array is "tuneable", and it also alludes to a possible "field effect", again that being a tuneable.

Pretty amazing really.

It opens up so many more doors.

My engine loves the leads.

Oddly I have water pissing out the exhaust pipe, the water emission being like a HHO equipped engine.


Regards,
Ross.

[mstanner]

Rev and Aaron

When you build your Battery booster cable, did you have the 1/8 inch internal tube installed within the 1/4 inch tube ?

Mike

[rosco1]

Att: all Kiker lead users.

It appears the windings of these leads need to be specifically wound in the "right hand twist" fashion.

I'm right handed, so I naturally wind "left hand twist", which I'm told is not the right way to wind anything carrying a current.

This may explain "why" I've had dead lead issues and 1 cell on my battery has been overflowing for the last few months.

The overflow issue disappears if I replace the Kikers with a standard lead, thus apparently connecting the "phenomena" to the leads.

I've been looking for a valid reason for "why" that battery cell is constantly overflowing, as to my knowldge, cells never "make" electrolyte, but my apparent error in winding these leads the wrong way might be at the root of the problem.

Aaron, I note your battery lead is wound the wrong way, you must be right handed too.

[Aaron]

my cable

I have wound my battery cable in both directions - "wrong" way first and then the other way and couldn't tell a difference.

With coils, it is actually ok to wind them in the opposite direction if the intention is to create a south field at the top of the coil where the + goes.

I had one single copper tube covered with plastic tubing.

[livehho]

what happened???

Any idea what happened to Pat Kiker's website (kikerperformance.com)? It's been shut down for a while now. I exchanged with him some emails back in October but now he is a ghost. The guys from Panacea said to me yesterday that they are aware of the situation and that a couple of weeks from now they will release a report. They are gathering information from their contact.

Maybe he was offered some millions from the guys in black and c'est la vie? darn I hope not..

[livehho]

kiker website is back ON

[ewizard]

I missed how old this thread was and somehow also missed the 2nd and 3rd page but I'm still leaving my post as is for what it's worth:
Without getting all technical or doing any of the math here's my take on this IMO based on my highly tuned intuition I just finished doing all the electrical in my new house so I think I do have a feel for some of this (along with 20 years reading on alternate energy). With a cold engine the current draw from a battery can easily hit a couple hundred amps or more. At low voltage DC I believe what's most important to get that current to the starter is lots of copper. By keeping the coil of copper tubing compressed the Kiker device may lower the overall resistance with only a very short run of the single tube at the ends. I'm going to say simply using some 4/0 very heavy welding cable would probably be easier and cheaper. I don't think there's any magic on this one. As far as electrons flowing on the outside I'm still trying to understand that concept and in which cases it is more applicable (if not all).

This is just my intuitive grab-it-out-of-thin-air feeling on this so I may be all wet on this but I'm getting the feel there is nothing special with the Kiker product other than a lot of copper and the fact that cleaning terminals and end connections and installing new connections will likely always help improve performance for a while. The very fact that he doesn't want it discussed here makes me think he's afraid we'll find it to not be a valid energy booster.

Now I'll go back and read page 2 and 3 to see how far off I am

[livehho]

ewizard. i'm not so sure the kiker design is just a facade. I just bought a set of kiker wires and i'll make a test before i install them.

- i'll buy a new set of OEM ignition and coil wires and
- will clean the terminals and end connections on my distributor and coil with contact cleaner
- install the oem wires
- check mpg
- replace oem wires with kiker wires
- check mpg

i think we are in for a surprise

[moose 53]

A simple open air test of the Kiker plug wire compared to stock plug wires will show how much different they are.