Mechanically Driven Pulse Motor

[Radiant-1]

Hello everyone,
I have created a pulse motor inspired by John Bedini's early patents. I am doing to tests to compare mechanical make/break driving against transistor based driving methods. Right now I am still testing the mechanical driving.
Here is a schematic of how I run it now (after testing I found bridge across reed switch is not needed as long as a load is on the secondary).

This is my first video of it in it's basic form...
YouTube - Monopole Pulse Motor

I have found peculiar things...let me explain

1.Even though the two windings are electrically isolated, I can get either wire of the secondary to arc back to either lead of the primary (one wire energy flow)

2. I can store up to around 250v in a parallel bank of 12 1500uf capacitors, which, I can then dump into a resistive load and get usable power...but, when I attempt to dump it into an inductive load such as a transformer, I get no result...I mean nothing...no spark, no voltage spike on the secondary, the voltage just vanishes.

3.The Arc that usually occurs in the reed switch vanishes if I give the collapsing field somewhere to go (secondary load)

Also, a direct load on the secondary (other then a battery) makes the motor run significantly slower...a capacitively coupled load on the other hand has no problem getting up to full speed.

I will be doing more tests soon...so if anyone can elaborate or provide any insights into any of the things that I have noticed...or that you or others have noticed, I am all ears and would love the feedback

[Peter Lindemann]

Thanks!

Hello everyone,
I have created a pulse motor inspired by John Bedini's early patents. I am doing to tests to compare mechanical make/break driving against transistor based driving methods. Right now I am still testing the mechanical driving.
Here is a schematic of how I run it now (after testing I found bridge across reed switch is not needed as long as a load is on the secondary).

This is my first video of it in it's basic form...
YouTube - Monopole Pulse Motor

I have found peculiar things...let me explain

1.Even though the two windings are electrically isolated, I can get either wire of the secondary to arc back to either lead of the primary (one wire energy flow)

2. I can store up to around 250v in a parallel bank of 12 1500uf capacitors, which, I can then dump into a resistive load and get usable power...but, when I attempt to dump it into an inductive load such as a transformer, I get no result...I mean nothing...no spark, no voltage spike on the secondary, the voltage just vanishes.

3.The Arc that usually occurs in the reed switch vanishes if I give the collapsing field somewhere to go (secondary load)

Also, a direct load on the secondary (other then a battery) makes the motor run significantly slower...a capacitively coupled load on the other hand has no problem getting up to full speed.

I will be doing more tests soon...so if anyone can elaborate or provide any insights into any of the things that I have noticed...or that you or others have noticed, I am all ears and would love the feedback

Josh,

Thanks for starting this thread on your motor with the reed switch control. I can help you with at least one of your observations right away.

This relates back to a "direct load" on the secondary. You are using a Full Wave Bridge to rectify the output. This allows the system to function like a conventional transformer IF the voltage of the output drops below the voltage of the input. This allows the load to directly draw more power from the input on the charging phase of the coil. That is what slows the motor down. If you replace your FWB with a single diode, like the SSG circuits use, this problem will go away, and the direct load, like a light bulb, will not slow the motor down so much. It should also charge your batteries a little better than the FWB because you have another .6 volts (voltage drop on the second diode) to work with. Since you are pulsing the input with DC, the output pulse is essentially DC also, but in the opposite direction. This is why you can use a single diode effectively in these circuits.

Koneheadx has shown motors like this for years, with very good performance.

Keep up the great work.

Peter

[Radiant-1]

Odd purple plasma

Thank you Peter,
I will definitely try that single diode. If you have any more tips to raise efficiency I would be very greatful. As of now, I am going to fashion an iron keeper for the coil, and try and get rid of all the steel screws, I think I am going to keep the hi-speed steel bearings for now. (because they are centered and I can't see them producing much drag)

Also I have a question for anyone who has made a reed switch pulse motor...Have any of you noticed coherent purple plasma inside the switch. I have many reed switches I got off ebay, and they are really strong ones (meaning they take a hefty magnetic field to work), well some produce a purple plasma that conforms to and coats one terminal (the negative). I can get some of the switches that don't make it, to make the plasma if I take the load off the secondary and allow a very HOT very POWERFUL BEMF arc to occur in the switch. Afterwards they will then produce the plasma, and seem to operate at a lower power input for the same speed.
I took apart one such reed switch and noticed that the terminal that was covered in plasma was "burnt" it had a hard thin black layer. I have not done many tests on it yet...but I thought I would share, it's very peculiar.

[Sephiroth]

Hi Radiant-1

I have tried several ways to mechanically triggering a pulse motor. The best way I have found so far is to use a reed switch to turn on a transistor that then turns on a relay. Very very complicated and hard to tune since the relay's response time is very slow comapred to a transistor so you have to compesate for the delay

The main question I would have for your set up is the life of your reed switches... Its incredible that your switches withstand 23v volts!

The first pulse motor I built was almost exactly the same schematic as yours though I used 4 AA batteries in series (approx 6 volts) and the reed switches fried within a day!

At the moment I am experimenting with triggering high performance transistors with a reed switch. There are advatages with this method, though there are also problems... mainly with fine tuning.

Using a reed switch will give you a much faster on/off time compared to a trigger coil. This is the main advantage. Though it is very hard to get the reed in JUST the right position for optimal perforance. Each magnet on the stator tends to be at a slightly different gause level so the reed swich somtimes doesn't fire precisley when it is supposed to.

And of course they burn out pretty fast... even when using a transistor.

I often think about tesla's rotary spark gap and how it could be adapted for a pulse motor. I think mechacally triggering the coils is the best way to go for optimal performance but it is almost impossible to tune a motor that is mechaincally triggered. Without proper tools, I don't thing it is possible to make a comututor to run the motor mainly becuase the pulse width needs to be tuned to the load, even if that load is only the bearings on your rotor.

Jetijs should be able to as his machining skill look excellent.

Josh,

Thanks for starting this thread on your motor with the reed switch control. I can help you with at least one of your observations right away.

This relates back to a "direct load" on the secondary. You are using a Full Wave Bridge to rectify the output. This allows the system to function like a conventional transformer IF the voltage of the output drops below the voltage of the input. This allows the load to directly draw more power from the input on the charging phase of the coil. That is what slows the motor down. If you replace your FWB with a single diode, like the SSG circuits use, this problem will go away, and the direct load, like a light bulb, will not slow the motor down so much. It should also charge your batteries a little better than the FWB because you have another .6 volts (voltage drop on the second diode) to work with. Since you are pulsing the input with DC, the output pulse is essentially DC also, but in the opposite direction. This is why you can use a single diode effectively in these circuits.

Koneheadx has shown motors like this for years, with very good performance.

Keep up the great work.

Peter

I'm glad you were the first to reply to this thread! To me that says something!

I'm also glad you mentioned that using a full wave bridge rectifier is uselss on bedini's patant's schematic! Even detrimental! I have suspected that for a while and so I have always used a single diode on my mono-coil trifilar set ups!

It is only after looking at thedaftman's schematic and reading what you said about how John wired his recovery coil's in series that I realised the purpose to the bridge rectifier!

Radiant'1,
I can't really comment on the arcs and plasma you are getting from your set up. Though I would have thought this was a bad thing and will eat your reed switches up I think if you put a diode in parellel with the reed switch (in the opposite direction to the current flow so all current from the battery still flows through the reed switch ) it may increase the life of your reed swithces though may sacrifce the rapid on/off time that is provides... just a guess... could be wrong!

Good luck with it and I'll be watching your other vids!

[BinzerBob]

Pulse motor, optocouplers

Hi Radiant-1

I have tried several ways to mechanically triggering a pulse motor. The best way I have found so far is to use a reed switch to turn on a transistor that then turns on a relay. Very very complicated and hard to tune since the relay's response time is very slow comapred to a transistor so you have to compesate for the delay

The main question I would have for your set up is the life of your reed switches... Its incredible that your switches withstand 23v volts!

The first pulse motor I built was almost exactly the same schematic as yours though I used 4 AA batteries in series (approx 6 volts) and the reed switches fried within a day!

At the moment I am experimenting with triggering high performance transistors with a reed switch. There are advatages with this method, though there are also problems... mainly with fine tuning.

Using a reed switch will give you a much faster on/off time compared to a trigger coil. This is the main advantage. Though it is very hard to get the reed in JUST the right position for optimal perforance. Each magnet on the stator tends to be at a slightly different gause level so the reed swich somtimes doesn't fire precisley when it is supposed to.

And of course they burn out pretty fast... even when using a transistor.

I often think about tesla's rotary spark gap and how it could be adapted for a pulse motor. I think mechacally triggering the coils is the best way to go for optimal performance but it is almost impossible to tune a motor that is mechaincally triggered. Without proper tools, I don't thing it is possible to make a comututor to run the motor mainly becuase the pulse width needs to be tuned to the load, even if that load is only the bearings on your rotor.

Jetijs should be able to as his machining skill look excellent.



I'm glad you were the first to reply to this thread! To me that says something!

I'm also glad you mentioned that using a full wave bridge rectifier is uselss on bedini's patant's schematic! Even detrimental! I have suspected that for a while and so I have always used a single diode on my mono-coil trifilar set ups!

It is only after looking at thedaftman's schematic and reading what you said about how John wired his recovery coil's in series that I realised the purpose to the bridge rectifier!

Radiant'1,
I can't really comment on the arcs and plasma you are getting from your set up. Though I would have thought this was a bad thing and will eat your reed switches up I think if you put a diode in parellel with the reed switch (in the opposite direction to the current flow so all current from the battery still flows through the reed switch ) it may increase the life of your reed swithces though may sacrifce the rapid on/off time that is provides... just a guess... could be wrong!

Good luck with it and I'll be watching your other vids!

I made a pulse motor, I guess back in March 2008 which used an optocoupler to time the on off pulse (there is a metal disk with a slit where there is one IR diode transmitting and one IR Transistor receiving a signal based on the slit position and length). The rotor of this motor was Iron core though. My main empitis of making that motor was just for fun type of thing. I used to make what was called simple induction motor back almost 30 years for science fair projects. Back then I used a mechanical switch to time the pulse.

An optocoupler would work very good for this application you are showing.

I hooked up with this forum and progressed to the Bedini motor.

[Radiant-1]

@Sephiroth

Hi Radiant-1

I have tried several ways to mechanically triggering a pulse motor. The best way I have found so far is to use a reed switch to turn on a transistor that then turns on a relay. Very very complicated and hard to tune since the relay's response time is very slow comapred to a transistor so you have to compesate for the delay

The main question I would have for your set up is the life of your reed switches... Its incredible that your switches withstand 23v volts!

The first pulse motor I built was almost exactly the same schematic as yours though I used 4 AA batteries in series (approx 6 volts) and the reed switches fried within a day!

At the moment I am experimenting with triggering high performance transistors with a reed switch. There are advatages with this method, though there are also problems... mainly with fine tuning.

Using a reed switch will give you a much faster on/off time compared to a trigger coil. This is the main advantage. Though it is very hard to get the reed in JUST the right position for optimal perforance. Each magnet on the stator tends to be at a slightly different gause level so the reed swich somtimes doesn't fire precisley when it is supposed to.

And of course they burn out pretty fast... even when using a transistor.

I often think about tesla's rotary spark gap and how it could be adapted for a pulse motor. I think mechacally triggering the coils is the best way to go for optimal performance but it is almost impossible to tune a motor that is mechaincally triggered. Without proper tools, I don't thing it is possible to make a comututor to run the motor mainly becuase the pulse width needs to be tuned to the load, even if that load is only the bearings on your rotor.

Jetijs should be able to as his machining skill look excellent.

Thanks for the good ideas...I was thinking of doing the same thing...I saw Peter Lindemann do something similar in his "Electric Motor Secrets"...If I am not remembering incorrectly that is how he triggered his Teal style selenoid motor right?
As for the reed switches...I lost a few at the beginning, but once I realized I always need a load...then the CEMF collapses sync into the secondary and into the load. At first I had a bridge in parallel to the reed switch...but I blew those 1kv diodes rather quickly. But, I got it under control now...and I have ran them at almost 48v ...however, it is unstable...So, I run it at 23v and have no problem with arc/heat


@BinzerBob
That was another idea I was contemplating(I think I may have seen your motor on youtube??)...but, I think it would be a little complicated for what I am doing.
What I am really wanting to do is avoid the "soft" switching event of solid state. So, adding in opto's and stuff only seems to increase the Ton and Toff.

I appreciate both of your insights and i will ponder the possibilities Thank you both

[cody]

reed switches

I am curious about your setup. You are saying you are getting higher voltages to go through your reed switches but how many amps. I have been testing various combos of that same setup for a while now. You definitly dont want that arc like you descovered, collect that and use it and everything will be happier. The reason i am inquisitive about your running amps is because when i started making my electromagnets more powerful my reed switches were blown in no time, they just couldnt handle the power. Im still in favor of using mechanical switching but am switching to a tapered commutator(tunable) to be able to handle the power needed to make a motor with some balls. I appreciate that you are experementing and posting results. Im plan to post some results on alternate coil design other than just the coil around the bar in the middle style, to maximize efficiency and make stronger electromagnets per input power. Should have results in a couple weeks.

[Radiant-1]

@Cody

I am curious about your setup. You are saying you are getting higher voltages to go through your reed switches but how many amps. I have been testing various combos of that same setup for a while now. You definitly dont want that arc like you descovered, collect that and use it and everything will be happier. The reason i am inquisitive about your running amps is because when i started making my electromagnets more powerful my reed switches were blown in no time, they just couldnt handle the power. Im still in favor of using mechanical switching but am switching to a tapered commutator(tunable) to be able to handle the power needed to make a motor with some balls. I appreciate that you are experementing and posting results. Im plan to post some results on alternate coil design other than just the coil around the bar in the middle style, to maximize efficiency and make stronger electromagnets per input power. Should have results in a couple weeks.

It runs at 190ma @ 23v...less voltage=less amperage
I want to make it clear that these are heavy duty reed switches...I believe they come out of some kind of coil or something. I bought 100 of them off of Ebay.
But, I have managed to rid the plasma/BEMF from inside the reed switch...so that is not an issue. I was wondering if anyone else has seen the purple plasma.

Thank you Cody...I had forgotten
The tapered commutator is an awesome idea I forgot I saw it on a friends youtube video...Thanks!!!
I made a cylindrical commutator but, I am probably going to shelve it now.

[ashtweth]

Josh,

Thanks for starting this thread on your motor with the reed switch control. I can help you with at least one of your observations right away.

This relates back to a "direct load" on the secondary. You are using a Full Wave Bridge to rectify the output. This allows the system to function like a conventional transformer IF the voltage of the output drops below the voltage of the input. This allows the load to directly draw more power from the input on the charging phase of the coil. That is what slows the motor down. If you replace your FWB with a single diode, like the SSG circuits use, this problem will go away, and the direct load, like a light bulb, will not slow the motor down so much. It should also charge your batteries a little better than the FWB because you have another .6 volts (voltage drop on the second diode) to work with. Since you are pulsing the input with DC, the output pulse is essentially DC also, but in the opposite direction. This is why you can use a single diode effectively in these circuits.

Koneheadx has shown motors like this for years, with very good performance.

Keep up the great work.

Peter

Kones work (updated with splatter coils in a few hours) is here
http://www.panaceauniversity.org/->Back EMF Recoil Recovery Battery Charger (by KoneheadX) (PDF)

[Peter Lindemann]

Koneheadx on YouTube

Hi Guys,

Thanks, Ashtweth, for the link to the Koneheadx files at Panacea.

Here's another link to one of Koneheadx's YouTube videos, about his little motor with the magnetic reed switch.

Enjoy,

Peter

YouTube - OverUnity Pulse Motor - Doug Konzen

[peper10]

Hi guys!!!!

I was wondering about get the purple arching out and i go back on Youtube
and see (the furzeham) he got the arching out by placing a diode and a
capacitor across the switch..He says that way he put some of the energy
back into the primary!!Despite is systhem is verry CRUDE it seams to work..
Anyway i hope you find the way to get to your goal and MY impression about
the mecanical switching ;i think,maybe the best for recovery...
I hope i bring a new path to your experimentation and WISH YOU THE BEST
things to come..
My profound taught to helping you

Alain

[Matthew Jones]

Why not just diode off the primary to another battery. Instead of using the BackEmf alone to charge another battery. Use all 3 currents that show up.
The emf coming 0uta the battery, The radient spikes that show up from 2 North collisions, and the backEmf that settles back to the wire.


Or Load a low farad cap BackWards and during your off time backpop the battery with a forward discharge. Or another cap in front of battery. Reuse the energy.

The other thing, And this is opposite of what Mr Lindemann says. The bridge is the way the go if your after that Implied Negative Energy. And thats whats coming out of that secondary coil. Not Regular EMF. Put 2 or 3 Bridge rectifiers after the one you have. Take the positive and negative of the one you have and hook them AC outlet on another BR.

The Voltage will grow. Thats what negative energy Does. Grows through resistance.

If you have any amperage at all its bleeding via transformer effect off the primary coil. Adding Bridge rectifier will reduce the MEASURABLE amperage. But Negative energy and whatever it has for amperage is not measurable.
In other words If you want to use it, then grow it out, and then put it to your battery. Or like I said about the previous scenerio Use it to backpop your run battery.

What you have is nifty. The problem with it, and no else bothers to mention, is if you want true extra energy out of a system than YOU MUST stay off the ground. Do NOT send any current to ground. Every time you do you waste it. And in a motor there is no need to do it.
The motor simply channels the photon energy emmitted from the Divergant and Non Divergant energy flow on your wire. So why consume the energy on the wire if you don't have to?

Good work, hope to see you go further.

Cheers
Matt

[vzon17]

Why not just diode off the primary to another battery. Instead of using the BackEmf alone to charge another battery. Use all 3 currents that show up.
The emf coming 0uta the battery, The radient spikes that show up from 2 North collisions, and the backEmf that settles back to the wire.


Or Load a low farad cap BackWards and during your off time backpop the battery with a forward discharge. Or another cap in front of battery. Reuse the energy.

The other thing, And this is opposite of what Mr Lindemann says. The bridge is the way the go if your after that Implied Negative Energy. And thats whats coming out of that secondary coil. Not Regular EMF. Put 2 or 3 Bridge rectifiers after the one you have. Take the positive and negative of the one you have and hook them AC outlet on another BR.

The Voltage will grow. Thats what negative energy Does. Grows through resistance.

If you have any amperage at all its bleeding via transformer effect off the primary coil. Adding Bridge rectifier will reduce the MEASURABLE amperage. But Negative energy and whatever it has for amperage is not measurable.
In other words If you want to use it, then grow it out, and then put it to your battery. Or like I said about the previous scenerio Use it to backpop your run battery.

What you have is nifty. The problem with it, and no else bothers to mention, is if you want true extra energy out of a system than YOU MUST stay off the ground. Do NOT send any current to ground. Every time you do you waste it. And in a motor there is no need to do it.
The motor simply channels the photon energy emmitted from the Divergant and Non Divergant energy flow on your wire. So why consume the energy on the wire if you don't have to?

Good work, hope to see you go further.

Cheers
Matt

Hey cool I have bulit one just like you have except with just one diode. Only a single winding coil with a reed switch and one diode going to the 1500uf capacitor and it will charge the capacitor up to amout 200 volts in a few minutes. I wonder if this would have the same effect of charging a battery with radiant energy as the full on bedini circuit.

[vzon17]

More simple yet pulse motor design

Here is my circuit showing how I modified my bedini motor to run with reed switch and it charges the cap up in a few minutes up to 200 volts or more.
My coil is just a single wound coil of 24 gauge wire and I put the reed switch right on top of the coil so the magnet just misses it as the wheel spins around. with some adjustment it spins pretty fast.

So I am wondering if this kind of setup can be used to charge batteries with radiant energy the same way as the regular school girl motor. It would require some interval timer to dump cap I suppose. I will try it in my spare time.

[Matthew Jones]

I have done with 1 diode as well. And yes you get the same effect as monopole but not quete as uniform spikes on the scope. But the Sharp Gradient Spike shows up on the scope. So far as I have seen, you get that spike anytime you push two like feilds together, with one of the feilds being electromagnetic.
I have even seen them come from regular electric motors that were in bad shape.


Matt