Question - Radiant Energy Battery charging using an aerial

[SL3]

Have a good weekend.

Hi guys,

Yes, I was talking about my previous post. Not sure I understand what part you weren't sure about , but whatever it was...sorry.

Raui...Headed there now.

Red Eagle -- Thanks for the tip! For now, it sits out there on the windmill tower. Battery hooked up. Birds crapping on it. I'm going to go out and throw on a better collector plate and wire assembly with more wire height. Also going to try this wire run through a spark plug and into a coil like you mentioned, but maybe trying some old motorcycle ignition coils here. Might try some coils, too. For now, I have to finish up some other matters before I can return to playing out there, but soon. Soon I must return to it. That was too fun. Gave me an excuse to make use of my tower out here!

When it generates power....I'll post some pics and details. For now, it's shameful crap!

[braden]

rasiant ariel

Hi all

I have now tried 2 circuits to charge a 12v battery using radiant energy – neither have worked. Both used an aerial of 100m of coax cable strung at 3 m above ground level. One circuit used a cap, auto-coil and a spark gap, and the other circuit used a cap, SCR and Neon. Has anyone built a circuit using an aerial to capture radiant energy to charge a 12v battery that has worked? If so could you point me in the right direction.

Many thanks to all and what a great forum.


John

John this is a set I am using and drawing down enough power up a 12 volt battery

[Xenomorph]

@braden

Very interesting advancement of the APM indeed!
Some Questions: Is the transformer the main voltage booster? I just see its no transformer, but a simple coil. Is that for tuning?
Why the magnets? I am sure you use them for a reason.
Do you connect the inner wire or the shielding of the coax cable to the coil or both?
Also u use 2 parallel diodes, looks like a germanium/silicon pair. Does that increase performance?

[Bodkins]

John this is a set I am using and drawing down enough power up a 12 volt battery

is that copper slugs tape I can see there

[john_g]

John this is a set I am using and drawing down enough power up a 12 volt battery

Braden

Thanks for that. Do you have a diagram with the component values/construction details?

Regards

John

[Xenomorph]

I have replicated braden`s circuit (just that of the APM-1 and without double-diodes) in his diagram, because i wanted to see how effective it is compared to the original Joe Tate Ambient Power Module circuit. I have used a pietin antenna next to a big Joule-Thief coil and i found that indeed a higher voltage is captured, because his design has more voltage increase stages.

I have tried to use 10 m thin copper wire attached to a nearby tree on the antenna input, but that gave nearly no considerable voltage.
So one big factor in braden`s setup must be the coils and the coax cables.
He writes that he gets 8V in one antenna line and 25V in the other.
I would love to see such numbers on my APM hehe.
And probably connecting both antennas to the other modules ground increases the potential difference much more
than just using a one-ended antenna wire.

Has anyone an idea why sending the antenna signal through a coil with two neo magnet-pairs next to it increases the voltage in that line?
Maybe i am stuck too much in transformer logic to understand this

[Xenomorph]

I have replicated braden`s circuit (just that of the APM-1) in his diagram, because i wanted to see how effective it is compared to the original Joe Tate Ambient Power Module circuit. I have used a pietin antenna next to a big Joule-Thief coil and i found that indeed a higher voltage is captured, because his design has more voltage increase stages.

I have tried to use 10 m thin copper wire attached to a nearby tree on the antenna input, but that gave nearly no considerable voltage.
So one big factor in braden`s setup must be the coils and the coax cables.
He writes that he gets 8V in one antenna line and 25V in the other.
I would love to see such numbers on my APM hehe.
And probably connecting the antennas to the other module´s ground increases the potential difference more than using a single-ended antenna wire.

Has anyone an idea why sending the antenna signal through a coil might be beneficial?
Maybe i am stuck to much in transformer logic to understand this
I suspect that it can help increase the current, just reversing what i know about moving charges in a wire creating a magnetic field around it which strength is proportional to the current.

[mstamler]

Radiant energy

Hey, the problem with the radiant energy setups you are experiencing is either your ground is not conductive enough, or there is very little static electricity in the air at your location. Where I test mine, sometimes I am able to register .02 volts and other times 3 to 5 volts. Depends on weather, wind, sun, storms, and who knows what. Take the system to another location and give it a try.

[theremart]

Just a thought...

Coax cable is shielded so it does not pic up signal.

I also did not have good results with the Coax cable. I am thinking that maybe why we both failed.

Perhaps.... if we were to strip the wire down to the copper we might get better results.

[theremart]

P.S..

You might want to use an old UPS.... and run this outside for testing.

If you think about it, you have setup a wonderful place for lightning to strike with the wire in the air.

Just a thought.

[everwiser]

Most of the instructions I've seen call for only the aerial end of the wire to be bare to the air. It would seem to me that a bare wire would collect the voltage difference at the upper end but then give it away along its length to the humid air. The more humid the air the less voltage that would make it to your test rig(s). Some have talked about using magnet wire but with differing levels of success. It may be that coax has capacitive effects due to its shielding around the center conductor. Obviously, more tests are needed.

[ewizard]

Think teflon coated wire. Teflon = static electric charge from wind currents. Vague on the source of this but I did read about it somewhere that you can get a fair bit of voltage this way.

[Mark W]

Hi all
This is my first post on the forum. I came across this forum while trying to fine further information regarding this interesting subject.

I have spent a lot of time looking into this, my close friend tried this a few years ago and managed to charge up a battery in about 3 to 4 days. As ewizard mentioned Tetlon coated cable will work the best and even attaching Tetlon tape helps, also my friend found out that the weather has a lot to do with it as well. It works better in damp humid, and windy conditions, you don’t get much on still sunny days. What I have found is the cable needs to be turned into a dielectric material or Electret. The basic information floating around the Net said that an un-insulated copper wire will not work very well if at all.

It may be best to read these articles for a better understanding on how they can help in capturing the radiant energy. I have attached the links below. What I am planning to do is to use either coaxial cable with the screen removed or a un-screened Tetlon cable and hopefully turn this into a dielectric by heating it and passing a very high DC voltage through it until it cools down. This is supposed to make a long lasting attraction field within the cable.

What is of concern is! if it does work !!! it could generate lethally high voltage which could kill. Also how do you stop the interference from the cable as it will become a transmitter? This would be a big problem for aircraft, and anything else.

Mark W

Electret Q&A - 02/07/01

http://www.cheniere.org/references/electret.htm

[Jbignes5]

Thats because...

Think about it this way John:

If it worked, wouldn't we be seeing tons of aerials collecting the Atmospheric energy that's out there, being used to power homes, charge batteries etc.

So far I haven't seen anything like this works. But that does not negate the fact that there is a huge dielectric potential waiting to be harnessed from our Atmosphere. The altitude differences give hundreds and thousands of volts/potential that could possibly be tapped into.

The aerials idea appears to have merit, but again has anyone really produced any useful energy from such a setup?

Let look at a battery. We have an in and an out. Comparing the two you have an in but no out. If you excite the aerial with potential only then it will have more capability to attract the radiant energy to the aerial. The actual radiant energy has two components. One being voltage or initiator of the highway for the radiant energy to have an organized path to flow to and the other is the energy portion that tries to balance the imbalance we provided. Yes you will pick up stray charges or energy as the aerial sits there but without a good way to attract what you want the difference is like night and day.

So the order of radiant energy is this. Supply the attractor(voltage) then let nature do it's thing. So you need a way to switch from output to input on the same aerial otherwise all you will see is just a little difference between the two like you have seen. It is not as simple as throwing an aerial up and collecting all you need. You need to push then let nature pull in the amount you can handle. Also just using a odd number of feet or metric measurement is not going to cut it. It has to be tuned by the length to the desired frequency to whatever the source is. Finding that natural frequency is gonna be hard.

One other note of interest should be to have your whole setup in resonance which will act like a super conductor and connect to the environmental energies with nearly no loss.

I hope this helps you with your search.

[Farmhand]

Hi all, great topic, SL3 I was wondering if you had tried useing an insulated wire in close proximity to one of your electric fence wires to collect radiated energy from the pulsing fence ? I'm gonna try that with mine hopefully tomorrow, and will try to redirect it back to the source battery via a very small cap pulser or to a second battery to keep it topped up as back up.

I am very interested to also try a plate "P" collector here too I have a very steep hill on the property and it is 270 meters above sea level. I have double insulated wire to go down the hill to gound lower so that the only connection to earth is the stake, i'll put up a pole or something as well.

I think the trick will be to use a very good ESR rated small cap to pulse the battery maybe not electrolytic, but I will try different ones, also like Jbignes5 suggests I will try to tune the plate's orientation first then I might try to laminate it with some organic material and insulate it, I will aslo be using normal insulated wire from the plate to cap, cap to ground will be double insulated.

I will also try different length coils in the wire from the plate and a single diode, maybe a diode bridge somehow aswell. If I put the earth at the bottom of the hill I can get 30 to 40 meters vertical from earth stake to the top of the hill plus the pole height. I hope to get good results because my location.

I've had some computer issues recently and so have deleted my google and youtube, will have to remake youtube account and re upload my video's.

I'll post my findings here but not sure if I will get tomorrow off yet.

Cheers